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Engraved bi'S'. S.Jacelyn.from a Sketch by MrSUts. 
~&ost&n:— Published by Crocker- dt-Bretvster. K&wYbrhc John 2?JBave#.. 



IMNN&SriUL 



OF A 



TOUR AROUND HAWAII, 



THE LARGEST OF THE 



SANDWICH ISLANDS. 





BY A DEPUTATION FROM THE MISSION 
ON THOSE ISLANDS. 




iioston: 

PUBLISHED BY CROCKER & BREWSTER, No. 50, CORNHfLL. 

NEW-YORK.—JOHN P. HAVEN, 182, BROADWAY, 
1825. 



DISTRICT OF MASSACHUSETTS, to wit* 
District Clerk's Office, 
BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the sixteenth day of November, in the fif- 
tieth year of the Independence of the United States of America, Crocker &■ 
Brewster, of the said District, have deposited in this office the title of a book, 
the right whereof they c^aim as Proprietors, in the words following, to wit: 

4i A Journal of a Tour around Hawaii, the largest of the Sandwich Islands. By 
a Deputation of the mission on those islands." 

In Conformity to the act of the Congress of the United States, intitled, 'An 
act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts and 
books, to the authors and proprietors of such copies, during the times therein men- 
tioned ;'" and also to an act, intitled, "An act supplementary to an act, intitled, An 
act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts and 
books, to the authors and proprietors of such copies during the times therein men- 
tioned; and extending the benefits thereof to the arts of designing,engraving and 
etching historical, and other prints." 

JNO. W. DAVIS, 
Clerk of the District of Massachusetts, 



\ 



1 

\ 






mm 



IN the year 1819, Tamehameha, king of the 
Sandwich Islands, died, and his son Rihoriho 
succeeded to his dominions; and immediately af- 
terwards, the system of idolatry, so far as it was 
connected with the government, was abolished. 
This measure seems to have been owing to 
three causes:— First, a desire on the part of 
the king to improve the condition of his wives, 
who, in common with all the other females of 
the islaxids, were subject to many painful in- 
conveniencies from the operation of the tabu; 
secondly, the advice of foreigners, and of some 
of the more intelligent chiefs; and thirdly, and 
principally, the reports of what had been done 
by Pomare, in the Society Islands. A war, 
which this act occasioned, was suppressed by 
a decisive battle described in this volume. 
At this time, and before intelligence of the 
death of Tamehameha reached the United 
States, missionaries, sent forth by the Ameri- 
can Board of Commissioners for Foreign Mis- 
sions, were on their way to the islands. 



iV PREFACE. 



\ 



where they arrived, a few months afterwards, 
with the Gospel of Jesus Christ. 

After some hesitation on the part of the rul- 
ers of the islands, the missionaries, so oppor- 
tunely arrived, were allowed to remain and 
commence their work. Some took up their 
abode on Hawaii, where the king then resided; 
others went to Tauai, under the patronage of 
Taumuarii, king of that island; but the main 
body settled at Honoruru, on the island of Oahu, 
where is the principal harbour for shipping. 
This was in April 1820. At the close of the 
year, the king and the missionaries removed 
from Hawaii, and the latter joined their breth- 
ren at Honoruru. 

During the following year, some progress 
was made in settling the orthography of the 
language, a task, which the great prevalence 
of liquid sounds rendered extremely difficult. 
The alphabet adopted, was that proposed by 
the Hon. John Pickering, of Salem, Mass. in 
his "Essay on a Uniform Orthography for the 
Indian languages of North America," publish- 
ed in the Memoirs of the American Academy 
of Arts and Sciences; excepting that the Ha- 
waiian language requires a less number of let- 
ters than that alphabet contains. Every sound 
has its appropriate sign; every word is spelled 
exactly as it is pronounced; and thus the art 
of reading and writing the language, is render- 
ed to the natives simple and easy. A press 
being at the command of the missionaries, the 
first sheet of a Hawaiian spelling-book was 
printed in the beginning of 1822. This work 



PREFACE. 



was soon in great demand. Other works in 
the native language have since been published. 

In the spring of this year, the Rev. William 
Ellis, an English Missionary, who had resided 
several years at the Society Islands, came to 
the Sandwich Islands, on his way to the Mar- 
quesas. He was accompanied by the Rev. 
Daniel Tyerman and George Bennet, Esq. two 
gentlemen who had been sent by the London 
Missionary Society as deputies to their mis- 
sions in the South Seas; and, also, by two Ta- 
hitian chiefs, who were sent, with their wives, 
by the church of Huahine, as missionaries to 
the Marquesas. 

This company having been detained at the 
Sandwich Islands for a considerable period, and 
Mr. Ellis and the two Tahitians being almost 
immediately able to use the Hawaiian lan- 
guage with facility, the natives became so 
much interested in them, as to invite them to 
remain permanently at the Sandwich Islands. 
This invitation being strongly seconded by the 
American Missionaries, was accepted. At the 
close of the year, Mr. Ellis went to Huahine 
for his family, and returned in the February 
following. 

In April, the mission received a further ac- 
cession of strength by the arrival of new la- 
bourers from the United States. This called 
for an enlargement of operations. Two mis- 
sionaries were sent to Maui, and, as soon as 
circumstances would permit, arrangements were 
made for surveying Hawaii, with a view to the 
judicious occupation of that large and populous 
l * 



VI PREFACE. 

island. Mr. Ellis, the English missionary, the 
Rev. Asa Thurston, the Rev. Charles S. Stew- 
art, the Rev. Artemas Bishop, and Mr. Joseph 
Goodrich, (a licensed preacher,) American mis- 
sionaries, were selected for this purpose. 

Mr. Stewart was detained from the service 
by ill health. The rest commenced the tour 
of the island early in the summer of 1823, and 
completed it in a little more than two months. 
The results of the tour form the subject-mat- 
ter of this volume. 

A short time after the return of the Dep- 
utation from Hawaii, the king, Rihoriho, 
embarked in a whaling ship for England. 
His object seems to have been chiefly to 
increase his knowledge of the world. Ac- 
companied by his favourite queen, a chief, and 
some other native attendants, he arrived in 
London early in the following summer: but, in 
the course of a few weeks, both he and his 
wife sickened and died. The remains of 
these two personages were sent back to the 
islands in the Blonde, an English Frigate, com- 
manded by Lord Byron, brother to the poet; 
and upon their arrival, the funeral rites were 
performed, in a Christian manner, by their af- 
fectionate and sorrowing people. A younger 
brother succeeds to the government, which 
seems to rest upon a solid basis. 

The progress of the missionaries in attract- 
ing the attention of the natives to religious in- 
struction, and in teaching them to read and 
write their own language, especially of late, 
has been truly surprising. Schools, managed 



PREFACE. Vll 

by natives themselves, have become quite nu- 
merous, and are constantly increasing in num- 
ber, popularity, and effect. 

The following Journal was drawn up by 
Mr. Ellis, from minutes kept by himself, and 
by his associates on the tour, who subsequently 
gave it their approbation. The Report of the 
Deputation, which forms a convenient intro- 
duction to the main work, was written by 
another hand. 

The Appendix was prepared by the Assist- 
ant Secretary of the Board of Foreign Mis- 
sions, who performed the duties of an editor, 
while the work was passing through the press: 
but, as those duties were performed amidst 
numerous cares and frequent interruptions, it 
will not be surprising if inaccuracies should 
exist. 

Should this volume receive the liberal pat- 
ronage of the community, it will be an encour- 
agement to print other works of the same gene- 
ral character. A suitable remuneration will 
also be afforded to the enterprising publishers, 
.who have been at much expense for the 
engravings. 



DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER. 

Kuakini, Governor of Hawaii, - - To face the Title. 

Map of Hawaii, - To face p. 13. 

Makoa, Guide to the Deputation, - To face p. 63. 

House of Keave, - To face p. 84. 

A Missionary preaching to Natives, - To face p. 109. 

Great Crater of Kirauea, -- - . To face p. 136. 



COIN TENTS. 



Report of the deputation, - J 3 — ~1 

Journal of the tour, ----- 23 — 2o0 



CHAPTER I. * 

A part of the deputation sails from Honoruru. — Arrives 
at Kairua. — Reception by the Governor of Hawaii. — 
A breakfast scene. — Curious natural phenomenon. — 
Situation of Kairua. — Excursion to the plantations. — 
Thomas Hopu. — Christian zeal of a chief.— Ruins of a 
heiau. — Notice of Capt.Cook. — Population of Kairua. 
— Ascent of Mouna Huararai. — Volcanic phenomena, 23 



CHAPTER II. 

Mr. Ellis sails from Oahu— Ranai.— Maui.— Appear- 
ance of Lahaina.— Keopuol&ni, queen of the islands. — 
Native dance. — Evangelical labours at Lahama. — 
Taditions. — Mr. E. leaves Lahaina. — Visits an aged 
English resident in a part of Hawaii. — Description of 
a heiau. — Arrives at Kairua. — Another native dance, 38 



CHAPTER III. 

Proposed route. — An ancient fortress. — Aid from the 
Governor. — Native dance. — Height of Huararai.-— 



t CONTENTS. 

Manner of preparing bark for native cloth. — Con*- 
versation with the governor. — Departure from Kai- 
rua. — Description of th e guide. — Several heiaus. — Pop- 
ulation along the western coast. — Tracts of rugged 
lava. — Scene of the battle which took place in conse- 
quence of tiie abolition of idolatry. — Description of 
the battle. — Tomb of a celebrated priest. — Account of 
Capt. Cook's death, and of the honours rendered to 
kis remains,— Encouraging missionary labours, - 55 



CHAPTER IV. 



Hawaiian notions of a future state. — Account of the bat- 
tle at Mokuohai. — Indisposition of Mr. Ellis. — Bury- 
ing-place of the ancient Hawaiian kings. — The Puho- 
nua, or City of Refuge. — Ancient cataract of lava, and 
singular vaulted avenue. — Journey along the shore. — 
Custom on the death of a chief. — Singular pillars of 
lava. — Scarcity of fresh water. — Division of Kona. — 
Appeai^ance of the south-west part of the island.— 
Keavaiti. — Evangelical labours at Patini, *■ 80 



CHAPTER V. 



Beautiful spouting of water through the lava. — Inland 
route. — Fertile appearance of the country. — Descrip- 
tion of the taro. — Account cf a congregation of na- 
tives. — Vale of Waiohinu. — Conversation with the 
natives. — The guide objects to visiting the volcano. — 
Account of the defeat and assassination of Keoua. — 
Pebbly beach at Ninole, and superstitions connected 
w 7 ith it.— Hospitality of the natives. — Distant indica- 
tions of the volcano-Singular favourite of two Ha- 
waiian females. — Burning chasm at Ponahohoa. - - 99 



CHAPTER VI. 



Leave Kapapala for the volcano — Lodge in a cavern. — 
Beflection'from the volcano by night.— Volcanic sand. 



CONTENTS. XI 

—Superstition of the natives with respect to the 
ohelo, — Description of the Great Crater of Kirauea; 
and traditions and superstitious notions connected with 
it.— The "Little Kirauea." — Ancient heiau on the 
summit of a precipice. — Mouna Roa. — Probable 
structure of the island, ----- 121 



CHAPTER VII. 



Journey to Kearakomo, and reception there. — Reported 
eruption of lava in Kapapala. — Sabbath at Keara- 
komo. — Affectionate reception of Mauae at Kaimu. — 
Conversation with the people. — Marks of an earth- 
quake. — Description of Kaimu. — Manner of launching 
and landing canoes at Kahena. — Preaching and con- 
versation with the people. — Extinguished volcano in 
the valley of Kapoho. — Traditionary story of a con- 
test between Pele and Kahavari. — Incidents on the 
journey to Waiakea, - - - - • - - 148 



CHAPTER VIII. 



Public worship at Waiakea — Conversation with a priest- 
ess of Pele. — Opinion of natives at Waiakea respect- 
ing the permanent residence of missionaries there. — 
Former customs on Wairuku river. — Waiakea bay. — 
Voyage to Laupahoehoe. — Description of a double 
canoe. — Temple of Pele. — Journey across the moun- 
tains to Towaihae, ----- . iY6 



CHAPTER IX. 



Description of Waipio valley. — Another place of refuge. 
— Notions of a future state. — W aim anu valley. — Inter- 
est felt at this place in the instructions of the mission- 
aries. — Fail of immense masses of rocks. — Halaua. — 
Character of Tamehameha. — Method of procuring 
saudal-wood. — Ascent of Mouna Kea. - 197 



Xli CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER X. 



Messrs. Bishop and Goodrich arrive at Kairua. — New 
house of worship at that place. — Observance of the 
Sabbath. — Several of the party embark for Oahu. — 
Preaching and conversation at Kairua. — All the mem- 
bers of the deputation meet at Honoruru. - - 220 



APPENDIX. 



I. Names, and brief notices, of persons mentioned in 

the work. --------- 231 

II. Names of places with brief notices of some of them, 235 

III. Names of the former gods of Hawaii, mentioned in 

the work, - - - - t - - - - 241 

IV. Abstract of a meteorological journal, kept at Hono- 
ruru, on the island of Oahu, by the American mission- 
aries, --------- 242 

V. 1. Alphabet of the Hawaiian language, - - 243 
2. A vocabulary of the Hawaiian language, - - 244 

VI. General remarks on the Polynesian language. - 252 

VII. Vocabulary of the Fejeean language, - - 254 

VIII. Statements of the Rev. William Ellis, respecting 

the Society Islands, ------ 25 



REPORT OF THE DEPUTATION. 



TO THE MEMBERS AND PATRONS OF THE SANDWICH 
ISLAND MISSION. 



Brethren and Friends, 

Having, by favour of Providence, performed, 
in the period of ten weeks, the interesting 
service, for which we were lately appointed, 
it is with no small satisfaction, that we lay 
before you a brief outline of our proceedings. 

By sea and by land we have enjoyed the 
protection of God, and the countenance and 
patronage of the king and chiefs. Especially 
would we notice the kindness of Kuakini,* the 
Governor of Hawaii, (Owhyhee,) who re- 
ceived us with great hospitality, and freely 
lent his influence and authority to aid us in the 
attainment of our immediate objects; and with 
a view to the permanent establishment of a 
missionary station there, has promptly com- 
menced the erection of a chapel at Kairua for 
the worship of Jehovah, whose rightful and 
supreme authority he has publicly acknowl- 
edged, t 

* Kuakini is more known in this country by the name of John Adams. 
t This chapel has since been completed. Ed. 

2 




The outline from Vancouver! 

[mpruvrd by Ike Deputation. 






14 REPORT OF THE DEPUTATION. 

We would early and devoutly acknowledge 
our obligations of gratitude to the Great Lord 
of the harvest, who has enabled us, without 
opposition or material disaster, so fully to in- 
vestigate the moral state, and comparative 
claims, of that portion of our field of labour, and 
so freely and frequently to proclaim to its 
perishing thousands the unsearchable riches of 
Jesus Christ. While we have endeavoured 
steadily to pursue these grand objects of our 
enterprise with reference to a permanent main- 
tenance of the Gospel on that island, we have 
been enabled to collect considerable information 
on a variety of subjects, which, though of sec- 
ondary moment in the missionary's account, 
are, nevertheless, interesting and important; 
such as the natural scenery, productions, geol- 
ogy, and curiosities; the traditionary legends, 
superstitions, manners, customs, &c. 

In the prosecution of our design to explore 
and enlighten the long benighted Hawaii, we 
have ascended its lofty and majestic mountains, 
entered its dark caverns, crossed its deep ra- 
vines, and traversed its immense fields of rug- 
ged lava. We have stood with wonder on the 
edge of its ancient craters, walked tremblingly 
along the brink of its smoking chasms, gazed 
with admiration on its raging fires, and wit- 
nessed, with no ordinary feelings of awe, the 
varied and sublime phenomena of volcanic 
action, in all its imposing magnificence and 
terrific grandeur. 

We have witnessed, too, with sorrow, the 
appalling darkness, which has hitherto over- 



REPORT OF THE DEPUTATION. 15 

spread the land; have wept over the miseries of 
its untutored inhabitants; have sighed for their 
speedy emancipation from the b^rdage of ini- 
quity; and through their fertile vales, barren 
wastes, and clustering villages, have proclaimed 
the Lord Jesus Christ, as the Hope and Deliv- 
erer of man. 

Commencing our tour at Kairua, on the 
western shore of Hawaii, we travelled to the 
south, the east, and the north; twice crossed 
the interiour in different parts; remained a night 
and a day at the great volcano of Kirauea; 
visited all the principal settlements, both on the 
coast, and in the interiour; spent a Sabbath in 
each of the five large divisions of the island; 
and have endeavoured to convince the inhabi- 
tants, that the objects of the mission are benev- 
olent and disinterested, intended to lead them 
to the enjoyment of the lights of science, and 
the blessings of Christianity. 

We have not forgotten the command of 
our Saviour, "As ye go, preach;" and it has 
been our comfort, in obedience to that com- 
mand, to hold the cup of his salvation to the 
parched lips of those, who had never tasted 
the heavenly draught, and whom we found 
most emphatically without hope and without 
God in the world. Strengthened by the di- 
vine promise, "Lo, I am with you alway," we 
have on our tour preached in more than sixty 
different places, to collections of people of 
from fifty to one thousand in number, and 
in most cases have been heard with attention* 



v^ 



16 REPORT OF THE DEPUTATION. 

We have also carefully numbered the habita- 
tions of the natives, and have estimated the 
inhabitants of Hawaii to be 85,000; a number 
much greater than the population of all the 
other islands of the group; but far less than 
the estimate of its celebrated discoverer, and 
of respectable subsequent voyagers. To con- 
template the waste of population here indi- 
cated,— whether we attribute it to the ravages 
of war, whose restless spear is scarcely re- 
strained by the approach of the cross; to the 
desolating pestilence, which has more than 
once swept through these isles; to the cruel 
superstition, which has but recently abolished 
her immolating rites; to that most unnatural of 
all crimes, that gain admittance to "the habi- 
tations of cruelty," infanticide; or to the prev- 
alence of vice, rendered doubly destructive by 
foreign causes, — cannot but be deeply affect- 
ing to the feelings of philanthropy. 

The light of the Gospel has broken the 
gloom, which, like a long and cheerless night, 
has, from time immemorial, rested on the hills 
and vallies of Hawaii; and a jubilee has, we 
trust, dawned upon its miserable inhabitants. 

But though the chiefs have renounced their 
ancient idolatry, and the priests no lojiger per- 
form the mystic and bloody rites of the heiau* 
and though on the ruins of their temples, altars 
are now erecting for the worship of the living 
God, yet the deep impressions made in child- 
hood, by the songs, legends, and horrid rites 

Temple, 



# v : : 



REPORT OF THE DEPUTATION, 17 

connected with their long established super- 
stitions, and the feelings and habits cherished 
by them in subsequent life, are not, by the 
simple proclamation of a king, or the resigna- 
of a priest, to be removed at once from the 
mind of the unenlightened Hawaiian, who, in 
the sighing of the breeze, the gloom of night, 
the boding eclipse, the meteor's glance, the 
lightning's flash, the thunder's roar, the earth- 
quake's ^hock, is accustomed to recognize the 
dreaded presence of some unpropitious deity. 
Nor must we be surprised, if the former views 
which the Hawiian has been accustomed to en- 
tertain respecting Pele, the goddess he supposes 
to preside over volcanoes, should not at once be 
eradicated; as he is continually reminded of 
her power, by almost every object that meets 
his eye, from the rude cliffs of lava, against 
which the billows of the ocean dash, even 
to the lofty craters, her ancient seat amid per- 
petual snows. Nor is it to be expected, that 
those who feel themselves to have been re- 
leased from the oppressive demands of their 
former religion, will, until they are more en- 
lightened, be in haste to adopt a substitute, 
which presents imperious claims in direct oppo- 
sition to all their unhallowed affections; espe- 
cially since, while thus ignorant of the nature 
of Christianity, their recollections of the past 
must awaken fears of evil, perhaps not less 
dreadful than those from which they have just 
escaped. 

But though we found the people generally 
ignorant of Jehovah and indifferent to his wor- 



18 REPORT OF THE DEPUTATION. 

ship, and many of them retaining their house- 
hold gods, and cherishing a sort of veneration 
for the bones of their chiefs and relatives, yet 
not a few, when they heard of the love of God 
in the gift of his Son, desired to be more fully 
instructed, and "intreated that the word might 
be spoken to them again." 

"The harvest is plenteous, but the labourers are 
few." Nine preachers only are employed in the 
Sandwich Islands; and such is the importance 
of the stations occupied in Oahu, Maui and 
Tauai,* that but four at most can be spared 
for Hawaii, or one to every 21,000 inhabitants, 
a number more than equal to the whole popu- 
lation of the Society Islands, where twelve 
missionaries are advantageously employed. — 
But to furnish Hawaii even with one mission- 
ary to every 4,200 souls, sixteen more than the 
mission can now assign to it, would be required. 

We are happy to state, that, on different 
parts of the island, there are eight eligible sta- 
tions, Raima, Kearakekua, Honaunau, Honu- 
apo, Kaimu, WaiaJcea, Waipio, and Toivaihae. 
These we earnestly recommend for early and 
permanent occupation, as affording to the mis- 
sionary encouraging prospects, not of freedom 
from privation, but of extensive usefulness. 

Kairua, on the west, claims, doubtless, our 
earliest attention. Not less than 60 of its 
3,000 inhabitants, including the governor, have 
been taught to read and write their own lan- 

* Heretofore written Woahoo, Mowee and Atooi. E4. 



REPORT OF THE DEPUTATION. 19 

guage, and have been made acquainted with 
the first principles of Christianity.* 

Near Kearakekua, memorable for the lament- 
ed fall of Captain Cook, we were surprised 
and delighted to find a friendly chief, Kama- 
kau, who espouses, with lively interest, the 
cause of the Gospel, and earnestly desires to 
be taught himself, and to teach his people, the 
word of God. The expected residence here 
ofNaiheand Kapiolani, interesting chiefs, ren- 
ders it still more desirable that missionaries 
should reside here. 

Honaunau, the frequent residence of former 
kings, where a depository of their bones, and 
many images of their gods, still remain, has a 
dense population waiting for Christian instruc- 
tion. 

Including these three places, the coast, for 
twenty miles, embraces more than 40 villages, 
containing a population of perhaps 20,000 souls, 
to whom missionaries, stationed at these posts, 
might convey instruction. 

Honuapo, on the southern shore, is an ex- 
tensive village, with a considerable population 
in its vicinity. 

Kaimu is a pleasant village on the south- 
east shore, with 700 inhabitants, and with twice 
that number of people in its vicinity. 

At most of the above places, unless wells 
can be obtained, the missionaries will often ex- 
perience the want of good water. 

Waiakea, on the east, well watered, fertile 
and beautiful, having a commodious harbour, 

* Kairua t Kearakehua, and Waiakea, have since been occupied. Ed. 



20 REPORT OF THE DEPUTATION* 

with an extensive population, demands, next to 
Kairua, our earliest arrangements for perma- 
nent missionary operations. 

JVaipiOj little less fertile and beautiful, hav- 
ing in its immediate neighbourhood Waimanu, a 
valley of similar beauty and importance, is 
waiting to receive the precious seed. 

Towaihae on the north-west, a considerable 
village, presents nearly equal claims. 

Several other places, which have not been 
named, are scarcely less inviting. 

The whole field is open to spiritual cultiva- 
tion, and "and he that goeth forth and weep- 
eth, bearing precious seed, shall doubtless come 
again with rejoicing, bringing his sheaves with 
him. 55 

Such is the general view, which we propos- 
ed to lay before you. But for more particular 
information on the various subjects of our inqui- 
ry; for detailed descriptions of the places eligi- 
ble for missionary operations, and of the recent- 
ly established and flourishing station visited by 
one of us at Maui; and for minute and copious 
accounts of Hawaii, and of the sentiments, char- 
acters, and employments, of its ingenious in- 
habitants; we beg leave respectfully to refer you 
to our joint journal of the tour. Believing that 
you will rejoice with us in the cheering pros- 
pect of the early and ultimate success of mis- 
sionary operations there, and encouraged as we 
are with the assured hope of the complete and 
glorious triumph of the Gospel in every island, 
permit us affectionately to invite you to unite 
with us, "even as also ye do," in humble and 



REPORT OF THE DEPUTATION. 21 

earnest prayer for this interesting portion of our 
race; that the seed already sown among them 
may be as "the handful of corn upon the tops 
of the mountains, the fruit whereof shall shake 
like Lebanon;" that the promise to the Redeem- 
er of the nations may be remembered for their 
good; and that divine mercies may descend from 
heaven upon them in rich and joyful profusion, 
"as the dew of Hermon, and as the dew that 
descended upon the mountains of Zion, for 
there the Lord commanded the blessing, even 
life forever more" 



t^TOit Am ot mm wwra* 



CHAPTER I. 

Apart of the Deputation sails from Honor uru.— 
Arrives at Kairua. — Reception by the Governor 
of Hawaii. — A breakfast scene. — Curious na- 
tural phenomenon. — Situation of Kairua.— Ex- 
cursion to the plantations. — Thomas Hopu. — * 
Christian zeal of a chief. — Ruins of a heiau. 
— Notice of Capt. Cook. — Population of Kai- 
rua. — Volcanic phenomena. 

Taumuarii, the friendly king of Tauai,* having 
generously offered the missionaries, chosen to make 
the tour of Hawaii, a passage in one of his vessels 
bound from Oahu to Kairua, Messrs. Thurston, Bi- 
shop and Goodrich repaired on board, in the after- 
noon of June 24, 1823. They were also accompa- 
nied by Mr. Harwood, an ingenious mechanic, who 
has, for some time past, resided in the mission fami- 
ly, and whom curiosity and a desire to assist them 
had induced to join the party. The indisposition of 
Mrs. Ellis prevented Mr. Ellis, one of their number, 
from proceeding in the same vessel; but he hoped to 
follow in a few days. 

At 4 P. M. the brig was under way, and stood to 
the south-east. After having cleared the bar, and 
the reefs at the entrance of the harbour, the regular 
trade-wind blowing fresh from the north-east, they 

* Taumuarii, or Tamoree, has since died. A memoir of his life is preparing by 
one of the missionaries. Ed< 



24 RECEPTION BY THE GOVERNOR. 

were soon out of sight of Honoruru. They passed 
Morokai, Ranai, and the principal part of Maui, dur- 
ing the night, and at day-break, on the 25th, were 
off Tahaurawe, a small island on the south side of 
Maui, containing a scanty population, principally of 
fishermen. Shortly after, the Haaheo Hawaii^ (Pride 
of Hawaii,) another of the native vessels, formerly 
the Cleopatra's Barge, hove in sight. She did not, 
however, come up with them, but tacked and stood 
for Lahaina. In the evening, the wind, which is 
usually fresh in the channel between Maui and Ha- 
waii, blew so strong that they were obliged to lay to 
for about three hours; after which it abated, and al- 
lowed them to proceed on their voyage. 

26th. At 4 P. M. the vessel came to anchor in 
Kairua bay. 

The missionaries soon after went on shore, grate- 
ful for the speedy and comfortable passage, with 
which they had been favoured, having been only for- 
ty-nine hours from Oahu. They were heartily wel- 
comed by the Governor, Kuakini, usually called by 
the foreigners John Adams, from his having adopted 
the name of a former President of the United States 
of America. They took tea with him, and having 
conducted evening worship in the native language 
with the Governor and his family, retired to rest in 
an apartment in his house kindly furnished for them. 

27th. This morning their things were removed 
from the vessel, and deposited in a small, comforta- 
ble house formerly belonging to Tamehameha, but 
which the Governor directed them to occupy so long 
as it should be convenient for them to remain at 
Kairua. He also politely invited them to his table 
during their stay, and, after worship with him and 
his household, they sat down together to their morn 
ing repast. 

Their breakfast room presented a singular scene. 
They were seated around a small table with the Gov- 
ernor and one or two of his friends, who, in addition 
to the coffee, fish, vegetables, &c. with which it was 



CURIOUS NATUKAL PHENOMENON. 25 

furnished, had a large wooden bowl of poe* placed 
by the side of his plate, from which he frequently 
took very hearty draughts. Two favorite lap-dogs 
sat on the same sofa with him, one on his right hand, 
and the other on his left, and occasionally received a 
bit from his hand, or the fragments on the plate from 
which he had eaten. A number of his punahele 
(favourites,) and some occasional visitors sat in cir- 
cles on the floor, in every direction, around large 
dishes of raw fish, baked hog, or dog, or goat, from 
which each helped himself without ceremony, while 
a huge calabash of poe, passed rapidly round among 
them. They became exceedingly loquacious and 
cheerful during their meal, and several, who had 
been silent before, now laughed loud, and joined with 
spirit in the mirth of their companions. A neat 
wooden dish of water was handed to the Governor, 
both before and after eating, in which he washed his 
hands. The same practice was followed by his friends; 
and this, we believe, is a general custom with the 
chiefs, and all the higher orders of the people, through- 
out the islands. 

In the forenoon, the party walked through the set- 
tlement, in a south-east direction, to examine the 
ground, with a view to discover the most eligible 
place for digging a well, a convenience indispensable 
to the comfortable maintenance of a missionary stal- 
lion here, as there is no fresh water withia five or 
six miles of the town. They entered several caverns 
in the lava, resembling an arched vault, or extended 
tunnel of various thickness and dimensions. They 
supposed the lava at the edges of the torrent had 
first cooled, hardened, and formed the side walls, 
which approximated as they rose, until, uniting at 
the top, they became a solid arch enclosing the 
stream of lava, which continued to flow on toward* 
the sea. 

One of these tunnels, called Raniakea, they found 
to be of considerable extent. After entering it by a. 

* A sort of paste made of baked taro, beat up, and diluted with waters > 
3 



26 Curious natural phenomenon 

small aperture, they passed on, in a direction nearly 
parallel with the surface, sometimes along a spacious 
arched way, not less than twenty-five feet high, and 
twenty wide, at other times by a passage so narrow 
that they could with difficulty press through, till 
they had proceeded about 1,200 feet. Here their 
progress was arrested by a pool of water of consid- 
erable extent and depth, and salt as that found in the 
hollows of the lava within a few yards of the sea. 
This latter circumstance in a great degree damped 
their hopes of finding fresh water by digging through 
the lava. In their descent, they were accompanied 
by more than thirty natives, most of whom carried 
torches. These,on arriving at the water, simultaneous- 
ly plunged in, extending their torches with one hand, 
and swimming about with the other. The partially 
illuminated heads of the natives, splashing about in 
this subterranean lake, the reflection of the torch- 
light on its agitated surface, the frowning sides and 
lofty arch of the black vault, hung with lava that had 
cooled in every imaginable shape, the deep gloom of 
the cavern beyond the water, the hollow sound of 
their footsteps, and the varied reverberations of their 
vbices, produced a singular effect; and it would have 
required little aid from the fancy, to have imagined 
a resemblance between this scene and the fabled Sty- 
gian lake of the poets. The mouth of the cave is 
about half a mile from the sea, and the perpendicu- 
lar depth to the water is probably not less than fifty 
or sixty feet. The pool is occasionally visited by 
the natives for the purpose of bathing, as its water 
is cool and refreshing. From its ebbing and flowing 
with the tide, it has probably a direct communica- 
tion with the sea. 

In the afternoon, Messrs. Thurston and Bishop 
walked out in a north-west direction, till they reach- 
ed the point that forms the northern boundary of the 
bay, on the eastern side of which Kairua is situated. 
It runs three or four miles into the sea, is composed 
entirely of lava, and was formed by an eruption from 



SITUATION OF KAIRUA* 21 

one of the large craters on the top of Mouna Hu- 
ararai, about twenty-three years ago, which filled 
up an extensive bay twenty miles in length, and form- 
ed the present coast. A number of villages, planta- 
tions, fish-ponds, &c. were at the same-time destroy- 
ed. 

In several places Messrs. Thurston and Bishop ob- 
served, that the sea rushes with violence along the 
cavities beneath the lava to a considerable distance, 
and then, forcing its waters through the apertures 
in the surfaee, forms a number of jets d'eau, which, 
falling again on the rocks, roll rapidly back to the 
ocean. They enjoyed a fine view of the town and 
adjacent country. The houses, which are neat, are 
generally built on the sea-shore, shaded with cocoa- 
nut and kou trees, which greatly enliven the scene. 
The environs were cultivated to a considerable ex- 
tent in every direction. Small gardens were seen 
among the barren rocks on which the houses are 
built, wherever soil could be found sufficient to nour- 
ish the sweet potatoe, the water melon, or even a 
few plants of tobacco, which in many places seemed 
to be growing literally in the fragments of lava, col- 
lected in small heaps around their roots. 

28th. In the morning Messrs. Thurston, Goodrich 
and Harwood walked towards the mountains, to visit 
tJie high and cultivated parts of the district. After 
travelling over the lava for about a mile, the hollows 
in the rocks began to be filled with a light brown 
soil; and about half a mile further, the surface was 
entirely covered with a rich mould, formed by de- 
cayed vegetation and decomposed lava. Here they 
enjoyed the agreeable shade of bread-fruit and ohia 
trees. The latter is a deciduous plant, bearing a 
beautifully red, pulpy fruit, of the size and consis- 
tency of an apple, juicy, but rather insipid to the 
taste. The trees are elegant in form, and grow to 
the height of twenty or thirty feet. The leaf is ob- 
long and pointed, and the fruit is attached to the 
branches bv a short stem. The fruit is abundant, and 



2S EXCURSION TO THE PLANTATION. 

is generally ripe, either in different places on the 
same island, or on different islands, during all the 
summer months. The path now lay through a beau- 
tiful part of the country, quite a garden compared 
with that through which they had passed, on first 
leaving the town. It was generally divided into 
small fields, about fifteen rods square, fenced with 
low stone walls, made of the fragments of lava 
which had been gathered from the surface of the en- 
closures. These fields were planted with bananas, 
sweet potatoes, mountain taro, tapa trees, melons 
and sugar-cane, flourishing luxuriantly in every di- 
rection. Having travelled about three or four miles 
through this delightful region, and passed several val- 
uable pools of fresh water, they arrived at the thick 
woods, which extends several miles up the sides of the 
lofty mountain that rises immediately behind Kairua. 
Among the various plants and trees that now pre- 
sented themselves, they were much pleased with a 
species of felix, whose stripes were about five feet 
long, and stem about fourteen feet high, and one foot 
in diameter. A smart shower of rain (a frequent 
occurrence in the mountains,) arrested their further 
progress, and obliged them to return to their lodg- 
ings, where they arrived about five in the afternoon, 
gratified, though fatigued, by their excursion. 

Mr. Bishop called on Thomas Hopu, the native 
teacher who has for some time resided at Kairua, and 
was pleased to find him patient under the inconveni- 
ences to which his situation necessarily subjects him, 
and anxious to promote the best interests of his 
countrymen. 

29th. The Sabbath morning dawned upon the 
Missionaries at Kairua, under circumstances unusu- 
ally animating, and they prepared to spend this holy 
day, in extending as widely as possible their labours 
among the benighted people around them. Mr, 
Thurston preached in the native language twice at 
the Governor's house to attentive audiences. Mr. 
Bishop and Thomas Hopu proceeded, early in 



CHRISTIAN ZEAL OF A CHIEtf. 29 

the morning, to Kaavaroa, a village about fourteen 
miles distant, on the north side of Kearake'kua, 
where they arrived at 11 A. M. They were re- 
ceived by Kamakau, chief of the place, with many 
expressions of gladness. He led them to his house, 
and provided some refreshment ; after which they 
walked together to a ranai, (house of cocoa nut 
leaves,) which he had erected sometime ago for the 
public worship of Jehovah. Here they found about 
one hundred of his people assembled and waiting 
their arrival. Mr. Bishop, with the aid of Thomas^ 
preached to them from John iii, 16, and endeavour- 
ed, in the most familiar manner, to set before them 
the great love of God in sending his Son to die for 
sinners, and the necessity of forsaking sin, and be- 
lieving on him, in order to eternal life. Towards 
the latter part of the discourse, the preacher was in- 
terrupted by Kamakau, who, anxious that his peo- 
ple might receive the greatest possible benefit by 
the word spoken, began earnestly to exhort them to 
listen and regard; for their salvation depended on 
their attention to the truths which theyjieard. After 
the service was concluded, he again addressed them, 
earnestly and affectionately recommending them to 
attend to these things. 

Kamakau wished them to meet with the people 
again; but as the day was far spent, they thought it 
best to return. He then told them, that after their 
departure he should assemble his people again, and 
repeat to them what they had heard. He asked 
many questions respecting the way of salvation, and 
the heavenly state, and appeared deeply interested 
in the answers that were given; especially when in- 
formed that heaven was a holy place, into which 
nothing sinful would ever enter. 

As they went from his house to the beach, they . 
passed by a large idol, that Kamakau had formerly 
worshipped, lying prostrate and mutilated on the 
rocks, and washed by the waves of the sea, as they 
rolled on the shore. It was a large log of wood rudely 
* 3 



$0 NOTICE OP A CHIEF. 

carved, presenting a hideous form, well adapted 
to infuse terror into an ignorant and superstitious 
mind. On his being asked why he had worshipped 
that log of wood, he answered, because he was 
afraid he would destroy his cocoa nuts But were 
you not afraid to destroy it? "No, I found he did 
me neither good, nor harm." 

Bidding him farewell, they stepped into their 
eanoe and returned to Kairua, where they arrived in 
the evening, encouraged by the incidents of the 
day. 

Kamakau is a chief of considerable rank and influ- 
ence in Hawaii, though not immediately connected 
with any of the reigning family He is cousin to 
Naihe, the friend and companion of Tamehameha, and 
the principal national orator of the Sandwich Islands. 
His person, like that of the chiefs generally, is noble 
and engaging. He is about six feet high, and more 
intelligent and enterprising than the people around 
him. For some time past, he has established family 
worship in his house, and the observance of the Sab- 
bath throughout his district, having erected a place 
for the public worship of the true God, in which, ev- 
ery Lord's day, he assembles his people for the pur- 
pose of exhortation and prayer, which he conducts 
himself. He is able to read, writes an easy and leg- 
ible hand, has a general knowledge of the first prin- 
ciples of Christianity, and, what is infinitely better, 
appears to feel their power on his heart, and evince 
their purity in his general conduct. His attain- 
ments are truly surprising, manifesting a degree of 
industry and perseverance rarely displayed under 
similar circumstances. His sources of information 
have been very limited. An occasional residence 
of a^few weeks at Honoruru, one or two visits of the 
missionaries and of some of the native teachers at his 
house, and letters from Naihe, are the chief advan- 
tages he has enjoyed. He appears indeed a modern 
Cornelius, and is a striking manifestation of the sove- 
reignty of that grace, of which we trust he has been 



REMAINS OF SUPERSTITION- 31 

made a partaker ; and we rejoice in the pleasing 
hope, that He, who has begun a good work in his 
heart, will carry it on till perfected in glory. 

July 1st. In the forenoon two posts of observation 
were fixed, and a base line of two hundred feet was 
measured, in order to ascertain the height of Mouna 
Huararai; but the summit being covered with 
clouds, they were obliged to defer their observation. 
In the afternoon they walked through the south-east 
part of the town, to select a spot in which to dig for 
fresh water. After an accurate investigation of the 
places in the neighbourhood, where water appeared 
most likely to be found, they chose a valley about 
half a mile from the residence of the Governor, and 
near the entrance of Raniakea, as the spot were they 
were most likely to meet with success 

4th. This being the anniversary of the American 
Independence, guns were fired at the fort, the colours 
hoisted, and a hospitable entertainment given at the 
Governor's table, in honour of the day. — The mis- 
sionaries were employed the greater part of the day 
at the well, which, early in he morning, they had 
commenced. 

In the evening, while at tea, considerable attention 
was attracted by a slender man, with a downcast 
loV , in conversation with the Governor. It after- 
wards appeared, that this was a stranger from Maui, 
who wished to be thought a prophet, affirming that 
he was inspired by a shark, which enabled him to fore- 
tel future events. The Governor said many of 
the people believed in him, and from them he obtain- 
ed a living. 

During the next day, Messrs. Gpodrich^and Thurs- 
ton were engaged at the well, #nd returned in the 
evening having excavated the earth to the depth of 
eight feet. Hard and closely embedded lava ren- 
dered the work very difficult; but as the Governor 
promises assistance, they were encouraged to proceed. 

6th. This day being the* Sabbath, Mr. Bishop 
preached twice at the Governor's house, Thomas 



32 EVANGELICAL LABOURS. 

Hopu acting as interpreter. The congregation con- 
sisted principally of Kuakini's attendants and do- 
mestics, the greater part of the population conceiv- 
ing themselves under no obligation to attend preach- 
ing, as they do not know how to read. 

Leaving Kairua early in a canoe, with four men 
provided by Kuakini, Messrs. Thurston and Good- 
rich reached Kaavaroa about 9 o'clock in the morn- 
ing. Kamakau was waiting for them, and seemed to 
rejoice at their arrival. He led them to his house, 
and provided them with a frugal breakfast, after 
which they repaired in company to the ranai for 
public worship. On reaching it, they found about 
one hundred of the people already there. Before 
the service commenced, he arose, exhorted them to 
be quiet, and pay the greatest attention to the word 
of life which they were about to hear. 

Shortly after the conclusion of the service, Messrs. 
Thurston and Goodrich passed over Kearake'kua 
bay in a canoe, landed on the opposite side, and 
walked along the shore about a mile, to Karama. 
Here, in a large house, they collected about three 
hundred people, to w r hom Mr. Thurston preached, 
and was pleased with the interest they manifested. 
Some, who stood near the speaker, repeated the 
whole discourse, sentence by sentence, in a voice too 
low to create disturbance, yet loud enough to be 
distinctly heard. There were seven or eight Amer- 
ican and English seamen present, who requested 
that they might be addressed in their own language. 
Mr. Goodrich accordingly preached to them from 
Rev. iii, 20. 

Returning from Karama to the southern side of 
Kearake'kua bay, where they had left their canoe, 
they passed the ruins of an old heiau; the morai y 
mentioned in Capt. Cook's voyage, where the obser- 
vatory was erected. The remaining walls were one 
hundred feet long, and fifteen high, and the space 
within was strewed with animal and human bones, 



NOTICE OF CAPT. COOK. S3 

the relics of sacrifices once offered there, and pre- 
sented a scene truly affecting to a Christian mind. 

Leaving this melancholy spot, they returned in 
their canoe to Kaavaroa; and when the people as- 
sembled at the ranai, Mr. Thurston preached from 
Psalms cxviii, 24. " This is the day the Lordhath 
7nade, we will rejoice and be glad in it." 

About sunset, Mr. Goodrich ascended a neighbour- 
ing height, and visited the spot where the body of 
the unfortunate Capt. Cook was cut to pieces, and the 
flesh, separated from the bones, was burnt. It is a 
small enclosure about fifteen feet square, surrounded 
by a wall five feet high. Within, is a kind of hearth 
about eighteen inches high, encircled by a row of 
rude stones. Here the fire was kindled on the 
above mentioned occasion. The place is still 
strewed with charcoal. The natives mention the 
interment of another foreigner at this place, but 
could not tell to what country he belonged, or the 
name of the vessel in which he was brought. 

Kamakau and his people had interested his visitors 
so much, that they determined to spend the night 
at his house. After supper, the members of his 
family, with the domestics and one or two stran- 
gers, met for evening worship; a hymn was sung 
in the native language, and Kamakau himself en- 
gaged in prayer with great fervour and propriety. 
He prayed particularly for the king, chiefs and 
people of Hawaii and the neighbouring islands, and 
for the missionaries who had brought the good word 
of salvation to them. The missionaries were sur- 
prised to hear him u£e so much evangelical language 
in prayer. During the conversation of the evening, 
he expressed a great desire to have a missionary 
reside in his neighbourhood, that he and his people 
might be instructed in the word of God, and the- 
way of salvation. He also regretted exceedingly, 
that he was so far advanced in years before mission- 
aries arrived at the islands.* 

* H is age was supposed to be between forty and fif tj% 



34 POPULATION OP KAIRUA. 

The Sabbath had thus passed away pleasantly, and, 
it is hoped, profitably, both to the interesting inhab- 
itants of the place, and their guests; and the latter 
retired to rest, animated and encouraged by what 
they had that day witnessed. 

Early next morning they set out for Kairua, 
where they arrived about 9 o'clock in the forenoon. 
Messrs. Thurston and Bishop spent the remainder 
of the day in assisting at the well. 

Sth. Unable to proceed with the well for want 
of proper instruments to drill the rocks, they spent 
the greater part of this day in ascertaining the popu- 
lation of Kairua. They numbered the houses for a 
mile along the coast, and found them to be 529} 
and allowing an average of five persons to each 
house, the number of inhabitants in Kairua will 
amount to 2,645. This certainly does not exceed 
the actual population, as few of the houses are 
small, and many of them are large, containing two 
or three families each. 

9th. The varied and strongly marked volcanic 
surface of the higher parts of Mouna Huararia 
which rises in the immediate neighbourhood of Kai- 
rua, the traditional accounts of its eruptions, the 
thick woods that skirt its base, and the numerous 
feathered tribes inhabiting them, rendered it an 
interesting object, and induced the travellers to com- 
mence its ascent. About 8 o'clock in the morning, 
they left Kairua, accompanied by three men, whom 
they had engaged to conduct them to the summit. 
Having travelled about twelve miles in a northerly 
direction, they arrived at the last house on the 
western side of the mountain. There their guides 
wished to remain for the night; and, on being urged 
to proceed, as it was not more than three o'clock in 
the afternoon, declared they did not know the way, 
and had never been beyond the spot where they 
then were Notwithstanding this disappointment, 
it was determined to proceed; and, leaving the path, 
the party began to ascend in a south-east direction. 



ASCENT OF MOUtfA HUARARAf. S? 

iin which they travelled about six miles over a rough 
and difficult road, sometimes across streams of lava, 
full of fissures and chasms, at other times through 
thick brushwood, or high ferns, so closely inter- 
woven as almost to arrest their progress. 

Arriving at a convenient place, and finding them- 
selves fatigued, and drenched with frequent showers 
and the wet grass through which they had walked, 
they proposed to pitch their tent for the night. A 
temporary hut was erected with branches of the neigh- 
bouring trees, and covered with the leaves of the tall 
fern that grew around them. At one end of it, they 
lighted a large fire, and after the rains had abated, 
dried their clothes, partook of some refreshments they 
had brought with them, and having commended them- 
selves to the kind protection of their heavenly Guar- 
dian, spread fern leaves and grass upon the lava, and 
laid down to repose. The thermometer, which is 
usually about 84° on the shore, stood at 60° in the 
hut where they slept. 

10th. The singing of birds in the surrounding 
woods, ushering in the early dawn, and the cool 
temperature of the mountain air, excited a variety of 
pleasing sensations in the minds of all the party, 
when they awoke after a comfortable night's rest. 
The thermometer, when placed outside of the hut, 
stood at 46°. Having united in their morning sac- 
rifice to the great Sovereign of the Universe, and 
taken a light breakfast, they proceeded on their 
way. Their road lying through thick underwood 
and fern, was wet and fatiguing for about two miles, 
when they arrived at an ancient stream of lava about 
twenty rods wide, running in a direction nearly 
west. Ascending upon the hardened surface of this 
stream, over deep chasms, and huge volcanic stones, 
a distance of three or four miles, they reached the 
top of one of the ridges on the western side of the 
mountain. 

As they travelled along, they had met with tufts 
of strawberries, and clusters of raspberry bushes, 



36 ASCENT Off MOTJNA HUARARAI* 

loaded with fruit, which, as they were both hungry 
and thirsty, were very acceptable. The strawberries 
were rather insipid: the raspberries were white, 
large, frequently an inch in diameter, but not so 
sweet, or well flavoured, as those cultivated in 
Europe or America. 

c Between nine and ten in the forenoon, they arrived 
at a large extinguished crater, about a mile in cir- 
cumference, and apparently four hundred feet deep. 
The sides were regularly sloped, and at the bottom 
was a small mound with an aperture in its top. By 
the side of this large crater, divided from it by a 
narrow ridge of volcanic rocks, was another, fifty- 
six feet in circumference, from which volumes of 
sulphureous smoke and vapour continually ascended. 
No bottom could be seen, and, on throwing stones 
into it, they w T ere heard to strike against its sides 
for eight seconds, but not to reach its bottom. 
There were two other apertures very near this, nine 
feet in diameter, and apparently about two hundred 
feet deep. 

Walking along its giddy verge, they could dis- 
tinguish the course of two principal streams, that had 
issued from it in the great eruption about the year 
1800. One had taken a direction nearly north-east. 
The other had flowed to the north-west, in broad, 
irresistible torrents, for a distance of from twelve to 
fifteen miles to the sea, and, driving back the waters, 
had extended the boundaries of the island. The 
party attempted to descend the great crater, but the 
steepness of its sides prevented their examining it so 
fully as they desired. 

After spending some time there, they walked 
along the ridge between three and four miles, and 
examined sixteen different craters, similar in their 
construction to the first they met with, though gen- 
erally smaller in their dimensions. The whole 
ridge appeared little else than an assemblage of 
craters, which, in different ages, had deluged the 
vallies below with floods of lava, or showers of 



ASCENT OP MOUNA HUARARAI. Oi 

burning cinders. Some of them appeared to have 
reposed for a long period, as they were covered with 
earth, and clothed with verdure. Trees of consid- 
erable size were growing in some of them. In the 
vicinity of the craters, they found a number of 
small bushes bearing red berries, in crowded clus- 
ters, which in size and - shape much resembled 
whortleberries. Though insipid, they were juicy, 
and supplied the place of fresh water, of which the 
party had been destitute since the preceding eve- 
ning. They continued ascending till 3 P. M. when, 
having suffered much from thirst, and finding 
they should not be able to reach the highest peak 
before dark, the sky also being overcast, and the rain 
beginning to fall, they judged it best to return to Rai- 
ma without having reached the summit of the moun- 
tain; particularly as they found difficulty in pursuing 
the most direct way, on account of the thick fog, 
which enveloped the mountain. 

On their return, they found their pocket compass 
necessary to enable them to retain the path, by which 
they had ascended in the morning. At length they 
beheld with gladness the sun breaking through thefog, 
in which they had been so long enveloped, and, look- 
ing over the clouds that rolled at their feet, saw him 
gradually sink behind the western wave of the 
ocean. They travelled about three miles farther, 
when, being wet through, faint and weary, they 
erected a hut on the lava, and encamped for the 
night. They succeeded in making a good fire, 
dried their clothes, and then sat down to partake of 
the little refreshment that was left. It consisted of 
a small quantity of hard taro paste, called by the 
natives at paa. A little water would have been 
agreeable, but of this they were destitute. Thev 
gathered some fern leaves, which thev Shewed on 
the lava, and laid down to TGbose. 

1 lth, The party still felt unwilling to return with- 
out reaching the top of the mountain, and hesitated 
before they began again to descend: but having 
4 ° 



38 DEPARTURE OF MR. ELLIS PROM OAHU. 

been a day and two nights without water, and see- 
ing no prospect of procuring any on the mountain, 
they were obliged to direct their steps towards Kai- 
rua. 

They travelled several miles along the rough 
stream of lava, by which they f had ascended, till 
they arrived at the woody part of the mountain. 
There Messrs. Bishop and Goodrich, in searching for 
a more direct road to Kairua, discovered an excellent 
spring of water. They soon communicated the 
agreeable intelligence to their companions, who has- 
tened to the spot, and with copious draughts quench- 
ed their thirst. Having filled their canteens, they, 
with renewed strength and grateful hearts, kept on 
their way to the town. 

Owing to the roughness of the paths, and the cir- 
cuitous routs by which they travelled, they did not 
arrive at Kairua till a little after sun-set. They 
were considerably fatigued and almost barefoot; their 
shoes having been destroyed by the sharp projections 
in the lava. 

Having refreshed themselves at the Governor's, and 
united with him and his family in presenting an eve- 
ning tribute of grateful praise to God, they repaired 
to their lodgings, somewhat disappointed, yet well 
repaid for the toil of their journey. 



CHAPTER II. 

Mr. Ellis sails from Oahu. — Ranai.—Maui. — 
Appearance of Lahaina. — Visit to Keopuolani, 
queen of the islands. — Native dance. — Evangel- 
ical labours at Lahaina. — Traditions. — Mr. E. 
leaves Lahaina.— Visits an aged English resi- 

o'Hiorv* in a vart of Haicaii. — Description of a 
dtn~ .« * * _ ^z kairua. — Another native 
heiau^— Arrives dte — 

dance. 

Ok the 2d of July, eight days after ^^eparture^f 

Messrs. Thurston and his companions, Mi. MH* W 



APPEARANCE OF RANAI. 39 

lowed, in a small schooner belonging to Keopuolani, 
bound first to Lahaina, and then to Hawaii, for san- 
dal wood. Kalakua, one of the queens of the late 
Taniehameha, and Kehauruohe, her daughter, were 
proceeding in the same vessel to join the king and 
other chiefs at Maui. The trade-wind blew fresh 
from the north-east, and the sea was unusually rough 
in the channel between Oahu and Morokai. The 
schooner appeared to be a good sea-boat, but proved 
a very uncomfortable one, the deck, from stem to 
stern, being continually overflowed. All, who could 
not get below, were constantly drenched with the 
spray. The cabin was low, and so filled with the chief 
women and their companions, that, where space could 
be found, it was hardly possible to endure the heat. 
The evening, however, was fine, and the night free 
from rain. 

3d. At day-light, being close in with the west 
point of Morokai, they tacked and stood to the 
southward till noon, when they again steered to the 
northward, and at 4 o'clock in the afternoon were 
within half a mile of the high bluff rocks, which 
form the southern point of Ranai. A light air then 
came off the land, and carried them slowly along the 
shore, till about an hour before sun-set, when Kehau- 
ruohe said she wished for some fish, and requested 
the master to stop the vessel while she went to pro- 
cure them among the adjacent rocks. 

Her wishes were gratified, and the boat was hoist- 
ed out. Kehauruohe and three of her female atten- 
dants then proceeded towards the rocks, that lie 
along the base of the precipice, about half a mile 
distant. 

The face of the perpendicular rocks in this part of 
the island indicate, that Ranai is either of volcanic 
origin, or, at some remote period, has undergone the 
action of fire. Different strata of lava, of varied 
colour and thickness, were distinctly marked from 
the water's edge to the highest point. These strata, 
lying almost horizontally, were in some places from 



40 



APPEARANCE OF LAHAINA. 



twelve to twenty feet thick: at others not more than 
a foot or eighteen inches. 

After fishing about an hour, Kekauruohe and her 
companions returned with a quantity of limpets, 
periwinkles, &c. of which they made a hearty sup- 
per. The wind died away wiih the setting of the 
sun, until about 9 P. M., when a light breeze came 
from the land and wafted them on their passage. 

The southern shore of Ranai is usually avoided by 
masters of vessels acquainted with the navigation 
among the islands, on account of the light and vari- 
able winds, or rather calms, generally experienced 
there; the course of the trade-winds being intercept- 
ed by the high lands of Maui and Ranai. It is not 
unusual for vessels passing that way to be becalmed 
there for six, eight, or even ten days. The natives, 
with the small craft belonging to the islands, usually 
keep close in shore, and avail themselves of the gen- 
tle land breeze to pass the point in the evening, and 
run into Lahaina with the sea breeze in the morning. 
But this is attended with danger, as there is gener- 
ally a heavy swell rolling in towards the land. One 
or two vessels have escaped being drifted on the 
rocks only by the prompt assistance of their boats. 

4th. At day-break they found themselves within 
about four miles of Lahaina, which is the principal 
district in Maui, on account of its being the general 
residence of* the chiefs, and the common resort of 
ships that touch at the island for refreshments. A 
dead calm prevailed, but," by means of two large 
sweeps worked by four hands each, they reached the 
roads, and anchored at 6 o'clock in the morning. 

The appearance of Lahaina from the anchorage, is 
singularly romantic and beautiful. A fine sandy beach 
stretches along the margin of the sea, lined, for a 
considerable distance, with houses, and adorned with 
shady clumps of kou trees, or waving groves of 
cocoa-nuts. The level land of the whole district, for 
about three miles, is one continued garden, laid 
out in beds of taro, potatoes, yams, sugar-cane, or 



MR. ELLIS AT LAHAINA. 41 

cloth plants. The lowly cottage of the farmer is 
seen peeping through the leaves of the luxuriant 
plantain and banana trees, and, in every direction, 
white columns of smoke ascend, curling up among 
the wide spreading branches of the bread fruit. The 
sloping hills immediately behind, and the lofty 
mountains in the interiour, clothed with verdure to 
their very summits, intersected by deep and dark 
ravines, or divided by winding vallies, terminate the 
delightful prospect. 

Shortly after coming to anchor, a boat came from 
the Barge for the chiefs on board, and Mr. Ellis ac- 
companied them to the shore. 

On landing, he was kindly greeted by Keoua, 
governor of the place, and shortly afterwards was 
met and welcomed by Mr. Stewart, who was just re- 
turning from morning worship with Keopuolani and 
her husband. They waited on the king in his tent, 
were courteously received, and, after spending a few 
minutes with him, walked together about half a mile, 
through groves of plantain and sugar-cane, over a 
well cultivated tract of land, to Mr. Butler's estab- 
lishment, in one of whose houses the missionaries 
were comfortably accommodated until their own 
could be erected. Mr. Ellis was kindly received 
by all the members of the mission family. 

After breakfast, he walked down to the beach, and 
there learned that the king had sailed for Morokai, 
and that Kalakua intended to follow in the schooner 
in which she had come from Oahu. This obliged 
him to wait for the %/linoa, another native vessel 
hourly expected at Lahaina, on her way to Hawaii. 
The forenoon was spent in conversation with Keo- 
puolani and the chiefs, who appeared gratified with 
an account of the attention given to the means of in- 
struction at Oahu, and desirous that the people .of 
Lahaina might enjoy all the advantages of Christian 
education. Taua, the native teacher from Huahine, 
appeared diligently employed among Keopuolani's 
people, and Mr. Ellis was happy to learn from Messrs, 
4* 



42 A NATIVE DANCE. 

Stewart and Richards, that he was vigilant and 
faithful in his work. 

5th. At sun-rise, Messrs. Stewart and Ellis walk- 
ed down to Keopuolani's, and conducted worship in 
the large house on the heach. About fifty persons 
were present. In the afternoon he accompanied 
his brethren to their schools on the beach. The pro- 
ficiency of many of the pupils in reading, spelling, 
and writing on slates, was very pleasing. 

Just as they had finished their afternoon instruc- 
tions, a party of musicians and dancers arrived be- 
fore the house of Keopuolani, and commenced a 
hura ka raau, (dance to the beating of a stick.) Five 
musicians advanced first, each with a staff in his left 
hand, five or six feet long, about three or four inches 
diameter at one end, and tapering off to a point at 
the other. In his right hand he held a small stick 
of hard wood, three inches long, with which he com- 
menced his music by striking the small stick on the 
larger one, beating time, all the while with his right 
foot on a stone, placed on the ground beside him for 
that purpose. 

Six women, fantastically dressed, crowned with 
garlands of flowers, having also wreaths of flowers 
on their necks, and branches of the fragrant maire, 
(a native plant,) bound round their ancles, now made 
their way by couples through the crowd, and, arriv- 
ing at the clear space, on one side of which the mu- 
sicians stood, began their dance. Their movements 
were slow, and though not always graceful, exhibit- 
ed nothing offensive to modest propriety. Both mu- 
sicians and dancers alternately cantilated songs in 
honour of former gods and chiefs of the islands, ap- 
parently much to the gratification of the numerous 
spectators. After they had continued their hura 
(song and dance,) for about half an hour, Keopuo- 
lani requested them to leave off, as the time had ar- 
rived for conducting evening worship. 

The music ceased; the dancers sat down; and after 
the missionaries and some of the people had sung one 



EVANGELICAL LABOURS. 43 

of the songs of Zion, Mr. Ellis preached to the sur- 
rounding multitude with special reference to their for- 
mer idols, and the customs connected therewith, from 
Acts xvii, 30; "The times of this ignorance God 
winked at, but now commandeth all men every- 
where to repent." The people were attentive; and 
when the service was finished, dispersed, and the 
dancers returned to their houses. 

As the missionaries were on their way home, the 
voice of lamentation arrested their attention. Lis- 
tening a few moments, they found it proceeded from 
a lowly cottage, nearly concealed by rows of sugar 
cane. When they reached the spot, they beheld a 
middle aged woman and two elderly men weeping 
around the mat of a sick man, apparently near his 
end. They found him entirely ignorant of God, and 
of a future state; spake to him of Jehovah, of the 
fallen condition of man, and of the amazing love of 
Christ in suffering death for the redemption of the 
world; and recommended him to pray to the Son of 
God, who was able to save to the uttermost. He 
said that until now he knew nothing of these things, 
and was glad he had heard of them. They request- 
ed one of his friends to come to their house for some 
medicine, and having endeavoured to comfort the 
mourners, bade them farewell. 

6th. This morning the Ainoa was seen approach- 
ing from the southward, and about 2, P. M. she 
came to an anchor, having been becalmed off Ranai 
four days. 

This day being the Sabbath, at half past ten the 
mission family walked down to the beach for public 
worship. Most of the chiefs, and about three hun- 
dred people assembled under the pleasant shade of 
a beautiful clump of kou trees, in front of Keopuo- 
lani's house. After singing and prayer, Mr. Ellis 
preached from Luke x, 23, 24. "Blessed are the 
eyes which see the things which ye see, for I tell 
you, that many prophets and kings have desired to 
see those things which ye see, and have not seen 



44 EVANGELICAL LABOURS. 

them, and to hear those things which ye hear, and 
have not heard them." 

When the mission family, after service, went to 
say aroha, (present their salutations) to Keopuolani, 
they found her, Kaikioeva, and several others, con- 
versing about Tamehameha and others of their ances- 
tors, who had died idolaters; and expressing their 
regret that the Gospel had not been brought to the 
Sandwich Islands in their day. "But perhaps," 
said Keopuolani, "they will have less punishment 
in the other world for worshipping idols, than those, 
who, though they do not worship wooden gods, yet 
see those days, and hear those good things, and still 
disregard them."* As they returned, Mr. Ellis vis- 
ited the sick man, found him rather better than the 
preceding evening, and again recommended the Son 
of God to him as all-sufficient to save. 

He afterwards saw a party at buhenehene, (a 
favourite native game,) went up to them, told them, 
after a few minutes conversation, that it was the sa- 
cred day of God, and induced them to put aside their 
play, and promise to attend public worship in the 
afternoon. Leaving them, he passed through a gar- 
den, in which a man was at work, whom he asked, 
if he did not know it was the sacred day of God, 
and improper for him to work The man answered, 
Yes; he knew it was the la tabu, (sacred day,) and 
that Karaimoku had given orders for the people of 
Lahaina not to work on that day; but said he was 
hana maru no, (just working secretly,) that it was 
some distance from the beach, and the chiefs would 
not see him. Mr^ Ellis then told him he might do 
it without the chiefs' seeing him, but it was prohib- 
ited by a higher power than the chiefs, even by the 
God of heaven and earth, who could see him alike 
in every place by night and by day. He said he 
did not know that before, and would leave off when 

*Keopuolani was descended from the kings of Hawaii; and was the favourite 
wife of Tamehameha, and the mother of Rihoriho. She died Sept. 16, 1823, after 
having given much evidence of piety. A memoir of her, written by one of the 
missionaries at Lahaina, has since been published. Ed* 



EVANGELICAL LABOURS. 45 

he had finished the row of cloth plants he was then 
weeding. * 

Mr. Stewart conducted an English service in the 
afternoon. The sound of the hura in a remote part 
of the district, was occasionally heard through the 
after part of the day; but whether countenanced by 
any of the chiefs, or only exhibited for the amuse- 
ment of the common people, the missionaries did not 
learn. 

At four o'clock, they again walked down to the 
beach, and found about two hundred people collected 
under the kou trees. Many more afterwards came; 
and, after singing and prayer, Mr. Ellis preached to 
them upon the doctrine of the resurrection and a fu- 
ture state. The congregation seemed much interest- 
ed. Probably it was the first time many had ever 
heard of the awful hour when the trumpet shall sound, 
and the dead shall be raised and stand before God. 

At the conclusion of the service, notice was given 
of the Monthly Missionary Prayer-Meeting on the 
morrow evening, and the people were invited to at- 
tend. Taua, the native teacher of Keopuolani, vis- 
ited the family in the evening, and gave a very pleas- 
ing account of Keopuolani's frequent conversations 
with him on the love of God in sending his Son, on 
the death of Christ, and on her great desire to have 
a new heart, and become a true follower of the Re- 
deemer. He informed them, that she had several 
times, after the attendants had most of them retired, 
sent for him at 9 or 10 o'clock in the evening, to en- 
gage in prayer with her and her husband before they 
retired to rest. 

This account was truly gratifying to all the fami- 
ly, and tended much to strengthen the pleasing hope, 
which, from her uniform, humble, and Christian 
conduct, they had for some time indulged, that a 
saving change had taken place in her heart. 

7th. In the afternoon Messrs. Richards and Ellis 
w-aited on the Queen Keopuolani, to converse with 
her respecting the houses and fences, which she 



46 EVANGELICAL LABOURS. 

had kindly engaged to erect for the missionaries. 
The interview was very satisfactory. Keopuolani 
seemed anxious to make them comfortable, and as- 
sured Mr. Richards that the houses would soon be 
ready for them. The missionaries then visited Ma- 
aro, the chief of Waiakea, a large district on the 
eastern side of Hawaii. He had been on a short visit 
to the king at Oahu, and was returning to his land 
in the Ainoa^ He received them kindly, and when 
informed that Mr. Ellis wished to proceed in the 
vessel to Hawaii, said, "It is good that he should go; 
we shall sail to-morrow." The eastern part of La- 
haina, in which- he had his encampment, was highly 
cultivated, and embellished by some beautiful groves 
of kou trees and cocoa-nuts. There were also sev^ 
eral large ponds well stocked with excellent fish. 

On returning from their visit to Maaro, the mis* 
sionaries found the people collecting under the 
cool shade of their favourite trees in front of Keo- 
puolani's house, for the purpose of attending the 
Monthly Prayer-Meeting, About 5 o'clock the ser- 
vice commenced. Mr Ellis gave an address from 
the Saviour's commission to the first missionaries to 
the heathen, Matt, xxviii, 19. "Go ye, therefore, 
and teach all nations." The audience appeared grat- 
ified w T ith the brief account given of the missionary 
operations of the present day, especially those among 
the various clustering islands of the SouthPacific,with 
whose inhabitants they feel themselves more particu- 
larly identified, than with the native tribes of Africa, 
or Asia. It was a circumstance truly animating to 
see so many of those, who,, wrapt in the thick dark- 
ness of paganism, had, till lately, worshipped the 
work of their own hands, and sacrificed their fellow 
creatures to devils, now joining in concert with 
Christians of every nation in praying for the spread 
of the Gospel of Jesus Christ through the world. 

8th. After breakfast, Mr. Ellis visited a neat, 
strong, brick housed standing on the beach, about the 
middle of the district- It was erected for Tameha- 



EVANGELICAL LABOURS. 47 

meha, appears well built, is 40 feet by 20, has two sto- 
ries, and is divided into four rooms by strong board- 
ed partitions. It was the occasional residence of the 
late king, but by the present is used only as a ware- 
house. Several persons who appeared to have the 
charge of it, were sitting in one of the apartments, 
and Mr. Ellis, having looked over the house, and 
made some inquiries about the native timber employ- 
ed for the floor, beams, &c. sat down on one of the 
bales of cloth lying there, and asked them if they 
knew how to read, or if any of them attended the 
school and the religious services on the Sabbath. On 
their answering in the negative, he advised them not 
to neglect these advantages, assuring them it was a 
good thing to be instructed, and to know the true 
God, and his Son, Jesus Christ, the only Saviour. 
They said, "Perhaps it is a good thing for some to 
attend to the palapala and the pule, (reading and 
prayers;) but we are the king's servants, and must 
attend to his concerns. If we, (meaning all those 
that had the care of the king's lands,) were to spend 
our time at our books, there would be nobody to 
cultivate the ground, to provide food, or fetch san- 
dal wood for the king." Mr. Ellis asked them what 
proportion of their time was taken up in attending 
to these things. They said, they worked in their 
plantations three or four days in a week, sometimes 
from daylight to 9 or 10 o'clock in the forenoon; 
that preparing an oven of food took an hour; and 
that when they went for sandal wood, which was 
not very often, they were gone three or four days, 
and sometimes as many weeks. Mr. Ellis asked 
them what they did in the remaining part of those 
days, in which they worked at their plantations in 
the morning, and also on those days when they did 
not work at all. They said, they ate poe, laid down 
to sleep, or kamailio no* (just talked for amuse- 
ment.) They were then asked, which they thought 
would be most advantageous to them, to spend that 
time in learning to read, and seeking the favour of 



45 EVANGELICAL LABOURS. 

Jehovah and Jesus Christ, that they might live for- 
ever, or wasting it in eating, sleeping, or foolish 
talking, and remaining ignorant in this world, and 
wretched in that which is to come? They immedi- 
ately endeavoured to turn the conversation to some 
other subject, by saying, "What a fine country must 
yours be compared with this. What large bales of 
cloth come from thence; while the clothing of Ha- 
waii is small in quantity, and very bad. The soil 
there must be very prolific, and property very easily 
obtained, or so much of it would not have been brought 
here." Mr. E. informed them that the difference 
was not so great between the countries, as between 
the people. That many ages back the ancestors of 
the present inhabitants of England and America 
possessed fewer comforts than the Sandwich Island- 
ers enjoy; wore skins of beasts for clothing; painted 
their bodies with various colours; and worshipped, 
with inhuman rites, their cruel gods: but since they 
had become enlightened and industrious, and had em- 
braced Christianity, they had been wise and wealthy: 
that they owed all their present riches and en- 
joyment to their intelligence and industry; and that, 
if the people of either country were to neglect edu- 
cation and religion, and spend as much of their time 
in eating, sleeping, and jesting, they would soon be- 
come just as poor and ignorant, as the Sandwich Isl- 
anders were. They said, perhaps it was so; perhaps 
industry and instruction would make them better 
and happier; and if the chiefs wished, by and by 
they would attend to it. After again exhorting 
them to improve the means now placed within their 
reach by the residence of the missionaries among 
them, Mr. Ellis took leave/of them. — He also went 
into several.other houses during the forenoon, and 
conversed with the people on subjects relating to the 
mission/ recommending their attention to the advan- 
tages it was designed to confer. Some approved, 
but many seemed very well satisfied with their pre- 



HAWAIIAN AND TAHITIAN TRADITIONS. 49 

<^nt state of ignorance- and irreligion, and rather un- 
willing to be disturbed. 

9th. In the evening, after having united with the 
family in their evening devotions, Mr. Ellis took leave 
of them, grateful for the hospitable entertainment and 
kind attention he had experienced during his unex- 
pected stay at their interesting station. He felt con- 
siderable regret at leaving Lahaina without the com- 
pany of Mr. Stewart, whose indisposition, which 
had been increasing for two or three days, prevented 
his accompanjnng the Deputation, of which he had 
been appointed a member, in their projected tour. 

About 9 o'clock Mr. Ellis walked down to the 
beach, where he waited till midnight, before an 
opportunity offered for getting on board. On reach- 
ing the brig, he learned that they did not intend to 
sail till day-light. There were such multitudes of 
natives on board, and every place was so crowded, 
that it was impossible to get from the gang-way to 
the companion, without treading on them, and it was 
difficult any where, either below or upon deck, to 
find room sufficient to lie down. 

10th. Early this morning the vessel was under 
weigh, but the light winds and strong westerly 
current soon rendered it necessary to drop the an- 
chor. Between 8 and 9, Mr. Ellis went on shore, 
and after breakfasting with the mission family, re- 
turned to the beach, that he might be ready to em- 
bark whenever the wind should become favourable. 
He sat down in KeopuolanPs house, and entered 
into an interesting conversation with her, Hoapiri, 
and several other chiefs, respecting their ancient 
traditions and mythology. He could not help stating 
to them the striking identity between theirs and 
those of the Tahitians, and expressed his conviction, 
that both nations had the same origin. They said 
their traditions informed them, that their progeni- 
tors were brought into existence on the islands 
which they now inhabit, that they knew nothing 
if the origin of the people of the Georgian and 
5 



50 MR. ELLIS LEAVES LAHAINA, 

Society Islands. Tahiti, the name of the largest of 
the Georgian Islands, was found in many of their 
ancient songs, though not now applied exclusively 
to that island. With the people of Borabora, (the 
name they gave to the Society Islands,) they said 
they had no acquaintance before they were visited 
by Capt. Cook; but since that time, several presents 
and messages of friendship had been interchanged 
between Tamehameha and Pomare I, by means of 
ships that had passed from one group of islands to 
the other, and that, in order to cement their friend- 
ship more firmly, each had agreed to give one of his 
daughters in marriage to the son of the other. In 
consequence of this amicable arrangement, a daugh- 
ter of Pomare was expected from Tahiti to be the 
wife of the present king of Hawaii, and Kekau- 
ruohe, one of the daughters of Tamehameha, was 
selected by her father to be the bride of Pomare, the 
late king of Tahiti. Wanting a conveyance from 
Hawaii to Tahiti, Tamehameha was unable to send 
Kekauruohe, which, together with the death of 
Pomare, before he had any opportunity of sending one 
of his relatives to Hawaii, prevented the intended 
intermarriages between the reigning families of Ha- 
waii and Tahiti. 

About 2 o'clock in the afternoon, the Ainoa hove 
up her anchor. Mr. Ellis went on board in a canoe, 
just as she was leaving the roads. The brig was 
much crowded, as has been already observed, and, 
owing to the difference between the motion of the 
vessel, and their light canoes, many soon became 
sea-sick. 

11th. It was calm through the night; but in the 
morning the wind blew fresh from N. N. E., which 
continued until noon, when, being under the lee of the 
high land of Kohala, one of the large divisions of Ha- 
waii, they were becalmed. At 4 o'clock, P. M. a light 
air sprung up from the southward, and carried them 
slowly on towards Tovvaihae, a district in the divi- 
sion of Kohala, about 4 miles long, containing a spa- 
cious bay and good anchorage. The vessel stood in 



DESCRIPTION OF A HEIAU. 51 

towards the north side of the bay, leaving a large 
heiau, situated on the brow of a hill, to the south- 
ward, and heading directly for a deep gully, or 
water-course, called Honokoa, opposite the mouth 
of which, at 7 P. M. she came to anchor in ten fath- 
oms, with a good bottom. 

The north side of the bay affords much the best 
anchorage for shipping, especially for those that 
wish to be near the shore. It is the best holding 
ground, and is also screened by the kuahivi (high 
land) of Kohala from those sudden and violent gusts 
of wind, called by the natives mumnku 9 which 
come down between the mountains with almost 
irresistible fury on the southern part of Towaihae 
and the adjacent districts. 

12th. At 6 A. M. Mr. Ellis went on shore, and 
walked along the beach about a mile to the house of 
Mr. J. Young, an aged Englishman, who has resided 
36 years on the islands, and rendered the most impor- 
tant services to the late king, not only in his various 
civil wars, but in all his intercourse with those for- 
eigners who have visited the islands. 

Mr. Ellis found him just recovering from a fit of 
illness, received from him a cordial welcome, and, as 
he was just sitting down to his morning repast, joined 
him at his frugal board. After breakfast Mr. Ellis 
visited the large heiau, called Bukohola. It stands 
on an eminence in the southern part of the district, was 
built by Tamehameha, about thirty years ago, when 
he was engaged in conquering Hawaii and the rest 
of the Sandwich Islands. He had subdued Maui, 
Ranai and Morokai, and was preparing from the 
latter to invade Oahu, but in consequence of a rebel- 
lion in the south and east parts of Hawaii, was 
obliged to return thither. When he had overcome 
those who had rebelled, he finished the heiau, dedi- 
cated it to his god of war, and then proceeded to the 
conquest of Oahu. Its shape is an irregular paral- 
lelogram, 224' feet long and 100 wide. The walls, 
though built of loosp stones, were solid and compact. 



52 DESCRIPTION OP A HEtAU. 

On the side next the mountains, they were twenty 
feet high, and six broad on the top, but nearly 
double that breadth at the bottom. The walls next 
the sea were not more than seven or eight feet high, 
and were proportionally wide. The upper terrace 
within the area was spacious, and much better fin- 
ished than the lower ones. It was paved with vari- 
ous kinds of flat, smooth stones, brought from a con- 
siderable distance. At the south end was a kind of 
inner court, where the principal idol used to be kept, 
surrounded by a number of images of inferiour dei- 
ties. In the centre of this inner court was the place 
where the ami was erected, which was a lofty frame 
of wicker work, in shape something like an obelisk,, 
within which the priest stood as the organ of com- 
munication from the god, whenever the king came to 
inquire his will in any matter of importance. On 
the outside, just at the entrance of it, was the place 
of the rere, (altar.) on which human and other sacri- 
fices were offered. The remains of one of the pil- 
lars that supported it, were pointed out by the na- 
tives, and the pavement around was strewed with 
bones of men and animals, the mouldering relics of 
those numerous offerings once presented there, 
About the centre of the terrace was the spot where 
the king's sacred house stood, in which he resided 
during the season of strict tabu, and at the north 
end, the place which the priests' houses occupied, 
who, with the exception of the king, w r ere the only 
persons permitted to dwell within the sacred enclosure. 
Holes were seen on the walls, all around this, as 
well as the lower terraces, where wooden idols of 
varied size and form formerly stood, casting their 
hideous stare in every direction. Tairi, or Kukai- 
rimoku, the favourite war-god of Tamehameha, 
was the principal idol. To him the heiau was 
dedicated, and for his occasional residence it w r as 
built. On the day in which he was brought within 
its precincts, vast offerings of fruit, hogs and dogs, 
were presented, and no less than eleven human 
victims immolated on its altars. And although tha 



DESCRIPTION OP A HEIAU. 53 

auge pile resembles a dismantled fortress, whose 
frown no longer strikes terror through the surround- 
ing country, yet it is impossible to walk over such 
a golgotha, or contemplate a spot which must often 
have resembled a pandemonium, more than any 
thing on earth, without a strong feeling of horrour 
at the recollection of the bloody and infernal rites 
frequently practised within its walls. Thanks be to 
God, the idols are destroyed! Thanks to his name, 
the glorious Gospel of his Son, who was manifested 
to destroy the works of the devil, has reached these 
heretofore desolate shores. May the Holy Spirit 
make it the savour of life unto life to the remnant of 
the people. 

Leaving Bukohola, Mr. Ellis, accompanied by 
some natives, visited Mairikini, another heiau a few 
hundred yards nearer the shore. It was nearly equal 
in dimensions to the one on the summit of the hill, but 
inferiour to it in every other respect. It appeared 
to have been literally crowded with idols, but no 
human sacrifices were offered to any of its gods. 
On returning to Mr. Young's house, Mr. E. was 
informed, that the vessel would sail that evening 
for Kairua, a circumstance he much regretted, 
as he hoped to spend the Sabbath at Tow T ai- 
hae. However, Mr. Young collected his family 
and neighbours together, to the number of sixty. 
A short exhortation was given, followed by prayer, 
after which Mr. E. took leave of his kind host, 
repaired on board, and the vessel soon after got 
under weigh. 

13lh. It was day-light before they had left Towai- 
hae bay, as the wind during the night had been 
very light. The sea-breeze, however, set in early, 
and carried them along a rugged, barren shore of 
lava towards Kairua, which is distant from Towai- 
hae about thirty miles. It being the Sabbath, Mr. 
E. in the afternoon preached on deck, from Mark 
iv, 3S, 39, to a congregation of about 150 natives, 
including the greater part of the crew. He observed 
*5 



54 A KATIVE DANCE, 

most of the people afterwards sitting together in- 
small groups, and conversing about what they had 
heard, though some were inclined to make sport of 
it. In the evening they were opposite to the Lae- 
fnano, (Sharks point.) Strong westerly currents 
prevented their making much progress. 

14th. This morning they found themselves he- 
calmed to the southward of Kairua, several leagues 
from the shore. The snow-covered tops of the 
mountains were very distinct at sun-rise, but they 
soon after became enveloped in clouds, and contin- 
ued so through the day. A light breeze carried the 
vessel towards the land, and at 9 A. M. the boat 
was lowered down, and Mr. Ellis proceeded on 
shore. On his way, he was met by the governor, 
Kuakini, and Messrs. Goodrich and Harwood, who 
were coming off in the governor's boat. They 
returned together to the shore, where he was gladly 
received by Messrs. Thurston and Bishop, whom he 
found waiting to proceed on a tour of the island. 

In the afternoon, a party of strolling musicians and 
dancers arrived at Kairua. About 4 o'clock they 
came, followed by crowds of people, and arranged 
themselves on a fine sandy beach in front of one 
of the governor's houses, where they exhibited a 
native dance called hum araapapa. 

The five musicians first seated themselves on the 
ground, and spread a piece of folded cloth in the 
sand before them. Their instrument was a large 
calabash, or rather two, one of an oval shape, about 
three feet high, the other perfectly round, very 
neatly fastened to it, having also an aperture about 
three inches in diameter at the top. Each musician 
held his instrument before him with both his hands, 
and produced his music by striking it on the ground 
tvhere he had laid the piece of cloth, and beating it 
with his fingers, or the palms of his hands. As 
soon as they began to sound their calabashes, the 
dancer, a young man about the middle stature, ad- 
vanced through the opening crowd. His jet black 



A NATIVE DANCE. 55 

hair hung in loose and flowing ringlets down his 
naked shoulders, his necklace was made of a vast 
number of strings of nicely braided human hair tied 
together behind, while aparaoa, (an ornament made 
of a whale's tooth.) hung pendant from it on his 
breast. His wrists were ornamented with bracelets 
formed of polished tusks of a hog, and his ancles with 
loose buskins thickly set with dog's teeth, the rattle 
of which kept time with the music of the calabash 
drum during the dance. A beautiful yellow tapa 
was tastefully fastened around his loins, reaching to 
his knees. He began his dance just in front of the 
musicians, and moved forwards and backwards 
across the ring, occasionally cantilating the achieve- 
ments of former kings of Hawaii. The governor 
sat at the end of the ring opposite to the musicians, 
and appeared gratified with the performance, which 
continued until dark. 



CHAPTER III. 

Proposed rout. — An ancient fortress.— Aid from 
the Governor. — Native dance. — Height of Hua- 
rarai. — Manner of preparing bark for native 
cloth. — Conversation with the Governor. — De- 
parture from Kairua. — Description of the 
guide. — Several heiaus. — Population along the 
western coast. — Tracts of rugged lava. — Scene 
of the battle which took place in consequence of 
the abolition of idolatry. — Description of the 
battle. — Tomb of a celebrated priest. — Account 
of Capt. Cook's death, and of the honours ren- 
dered to his remains. — Encouraging missiona- 
ry labours. 

July 15th. Our whole number being now together at 
the place, from which we had previously agreed to 
commence our tour, we no longer delayed to decide 



56 PROPOSED ROUT. 

on the route we should take, and the manner in 
which we should endeavour to accomplish the objects 
of our visit, in order that the time we intended to 
spend on the island might be employed to the best 
possible advantage. 

Anxious to gain a thorough acquaintance with the 
circumstances of the people, and their disposition 
relative to missionary operations, we agreed to travel 
on foot from Kairua through the villages along the 
southern shore; to pass round the south point and 
continue along the south-east shore, till we should ar- 
rive at the path leading to the great volcano, situated 
at the foot of Mouna Hoa, about twenty-five miles 
distant from the sea, which we thought it improper 
to pass unnoticed. 

We proposed, after visiting the volcano, either to 
descend to the shore, and travel along the coast 
through the division of Puna, or across the interiour 
to the division of Hiro, as circumstances might then 
render most expedient. From Waiakea, in Hiro, 
we proposed to proceed along the eastern shore, till 
an opportunity should offer for part of our number 
to cross over the mountains of Kohala, while the 
rest should travel along the shore round the north 
point of the island, and meet their companions at 
Towaihae, whence they couldreturn direct to Oahu, 
if an opportunity should present itself, or to Kairua, 
and there wait for a conveyance. 

The plan of our tour being thus arranged, we 
were anxious to receive the aid of the Governor in 
the execution of it. Messrs. Thurston and Ellis 
were therefore chosen to wait upon him in the after- 
noon, to make him acquainted with our wishes, and 
solicit his assistance for their accomplishment. 

In the course of the forenoon, two of our number 
visited the ruins of an old military fortification, 
formerly belonging to the makaainana, (common 
people.) It had been a place of considerable impor- 
tance, while the island of Hawaii was divided into a 
number of independent governments under different 



AN ANCIENT FORTRESS. 57 

chiefs, when civil wars were frequent. All that at 
present remains, is a part of the wall, about twelve 
feet high, and fourteen feet thick at the bottom, 
built of lava, and apparently entire. In the upper 
part of the wall are apertures resembling embrasures; 
but they could not have been designed for cannon, 
that being an engine of war, with which the natives 
have but recently become acquainted. The part of 
the wall now standing, is near the mouth of Rania- 
kea, the spacious cavern already mentioned, which 
formed a valuable appendage to the fort. In this 
cavern children and aged persons were placed for 
security during an engagement, and sometimes the 
wives of the warriors, when they did not accom- 
pany their husbands to the battle. The fortification 
was probably extensive, as traces of the ancient walls 
are discoverable in several places; but what were its 
original dimensions, the natives could not tell. They 
asserted that the cavefn, if not the fort also, was 
formerly surrounded by a strong palisade. 

In the afternoon, Messrs. Thurston and Ellis wait- 
ed on the Governor, made him acquainted with our 
arrangements, and solicited the accommodation of a 
boat or canoe to carry our baggage, and a man ac- 
quainted with the island, to act as guide and to pro- 
cure provisions, offering, at the same time, any re- 
muneration he might require for such assistance. — ■ 
After inquiring what baggage we intended to take, 
and how long we expected to be absent from Kai- 
rua, he generously offered to send a canoe as far as 
it could go with safety, and also to furnish a guide 
for the whole tour, without any remuneration what- 
ever. He recommended that we should take a few 
articles for barter, as occasionally we might, perhaps, 
be obliged to purchase our food, or hire men to carry 
our baggage. After thanking him for his kind- 
ness, they returned. 

About four o'clock in the afternoon, another party 
of musicians and dancers, attended by multitudes of 
people, took their station nearly on the spot occu- 



iS ANOTHER NATIVE DANCE. 

pied yesterday by those from Kau. The musicians, 
seven in number, seated themselves on the sand; and 
a curiously carved drum, made by hollowing out a 
solid piece of wood, and covering the top with 
shark's skin, was placed before each, which was 
beaten with the palm or fingers of the right hand. — 
At the same time, with a small stick in the left, each 
beat a neat little drum, made of the shell of a large 
cocoa-nut. When the musicians had arranged them- 
selves in a line across the beach, and a bustling man, 
who appeared to be master of ceremonies, had, with 
a large branch of a cocoa-nut tree, cleared a circle of 
considerable extent, two interesting little children, 
(a boy and a girl,) apparently about nine years of 
age, came forward, habited in the dancing costume 
of the country, with garlands of flowers on their 
heads, wreaths around their necks, bracelets on their 
wrists, and buskins on their ancles. When they had 
reached the centre of the ring, they commenced 
their dance to the music of the drums, cantilatingall 
the while, alternately with the musicians, a song in 
honour of some ancient chief of Hawaii. 

The beach was crowded with spectators, and the 
exhibition was kept up with great spirit till the over- 
spreading shades of evening put an end to their 
mirth, and afforded a respite to the poor children, 
whose little limbs must have been very much fatigued 
by two hours of constant exercise. We were anx- 
ious to address the multitude on the subject of reli- 
gion before they should disperse; but so intent were 
they on their amusement, that they could not have 
been diverted from it. Mr. Ellis made a drawing of 
this scene. 

A messenger now invited us to sup with the Gov- 
ernor, and we soon after joined him and his friends 
around his hospitable board. Their repast was not 
accompanied by the gladsome sound of "harp in 
hall," or "aged minstrel's flowing lay;" yet it was 
enlivened by an interesting youthful bard, twelve or 
fourteen years of age, who was seated on the ground, 



ELEVATION OF HUARARAI. 59 

in the large room where we were assembled, and 
sung in a monotonous, but pleasing strain, the deeds 
of former chiefs, the ancestors of his host. His fin- 
gers beat, in a manner responsive to his song, upon a 
rustic little drum, formed of a calabash, beautifully 
stained, and covered, at the head, with a piece of 
shark's skin. The Governor and his friends were 
evidently pleased with his lay, and the youth seem- 
ed repaid by their approbation. 

16th. In the morning Messrs. Goodrich and Har- 
wood endeavoured to ascertain the height of Mouna 
Huararai,by means of two observations, at the ex- 
tremity of a base line of 2,230 feet. They made 
the height of the mountain to be 7,822 feet; but their 
quadrant being an inferior one, we think the height 
of the mountain greater than that given above, though 
it is never covered with snow. — The accounts the 
natives gave us of the roads we were to travel, and 
the effects the short journeys already made had pro- 
duced on our shoes, convinced us, that those we had 
brought with us would be worn out before we had 
proceeded half way round the island. We therefore 
provided a substitute, by procuring a tough bull's 
hide from the Governor's store-house, and making 
ourselves rude sandals; which we afterwards found 
very serviceable, as they enabled us to travel over 
large tracts of lava, with much more expedition and 
comfort, than we could possibly have done without 
them. 

At 4 P. M. the musicians from Kau again collect- 
ed on the beach, and the dancers commenced a hura 
similar to that exhibited on Monday evening. We 
had previously appointed a religious meeting for this 
evening, and about an hour before sun-set proposed 
to the Governor to hold it on the beach where the 
people were already assembled. He approved, and 
followed us to the edge of the circle, where we took 
our station just opposite the musicians. At the Gov- 
ernor's request the music ceased, and the dancers 
came and sat down just in front of us. We sang an 



60 MAKING OF NATIVE CLOTH. 

hymn, Mr. Ellis offered up a short prayer, and after- v 
wards addressed the people, from Acts xiv, 15, 
"And preach unto you, that ye should turn from 
these vanities unto the living God, who made hea- 
ven, and earth, and the sea, and all things that are 
therein." The multitude collected was from differ- 
ent and distant parts of the island. They appeared 
to listen with attention to the word spoken, and 
doubtless with many it was the first time they had 
heard of the name of Jehovah, or of Jesus Christ 
his Son. We afterwards heard them conversing 
among themselves about the truths they had heard. 

After supper and family worship at the Gover- 
nor's, Mr. Ellis spent the evening in conversation 
with him, partly on traditions respecting some re- 
markable places in the neighbourhood of Kairua, 
and partly on the subject of religion. Mr. Ellis 
spoke of the desirableness of his building a place for 
the public worship of the true God, and the advanta- 
ges of keeping the Sabbath as a day of holy rest, 
recommending him to set the common people a 
good example, and use his influence to induce them 
to attend public worship on the Lord's day. 

He said it was his intention to build a church by 
and by, when the common people should become in- 
terested in these things, and when they should have 
a missionary reside permanently with them; but 
that at present, the people of Kairua were quite in- 
different to all religion. 

17th. For several days past we have observed 
many of the people bringing home from their planta- 
tions, bundles of young wauli, (a variety of the 
morus papyri/era,) from which we infer that this 
is the season for cloth-making in this part of the 
island. 

This morning we perceived Keoua, the Governor's 
wife, and her female attendants, with about forty 
other women, under the pleasant shade of a beautiful 
clump of kou trees, employed in stripping off the 
bark from bundles of wauti sticks, for the purpose 



CONVERSATION WITH THE GOVERNOR. 61 

of making cloth with it. The sticks were generally 
from six to ten feet long, and about an inch in diam- 
eter at the thickest end. They first cut the bark the 
whole length of the stick, with a sharp serrated 
shell, and having carefully peeled it off, roll it into 
small coils, the inner bark being outside. In this 
state it is left sometime to make it flat and smooths 
Keoua not only worked herself, but appeared to take 
the superintendance of the whole party. When- 
ever a fine piece of bark was found, it was shown to 
her, and put aside for some special purpose. With 
lively chat and cheerful song they beguiled the 
hours of labour, until noon, when, having finished 
their work, they repaired to their dwellings. 

During the forenoon, Mr. Harwood made an au- 
ger to aid the well diggers in boring the rocks. — 
Messrs. Ellis and Thurston walked up to see what 
progress the natives had made, and to encou- 
rage them to persevere. The rocks, they said, were 
hard, and their progress slow; yet they were not 
discouraged, but hoped to find the work easier as 
they descended lower. 

After dinner the Governor Seemed disposed to 
enter into conversation on religious subjects, partic- 
ularly respecting the resurrection of the body, the 
destruction of the heavens and the earth at the last 
day, and the final judgment. After listening atten- 
tively to what was said upon these subjects, he in- 
quired about the locality of heaven and hell. He 
was told, that we did not know where the one or the 
other was situated, as no mortal has ever ^returned 
from either to tell mankind about them, and that we 
only know, that there is a place called heaven, where 
God makes glorious manifestations of his perfections, 
and where all good men are perfectly happy; and 
that there is a place where wicked men are shut up 
in darkness to endure endless misery. He then 
said, How do you know these things? Mr. Ellis 
asked for his Bible; translated the passages which 
jnpulcate these doctrines, and told him it was from 



62 CONVERSATION WITH THE GOVERNOR. 

that book we obtained all our knowledge of these 
things; and that it was the contents of that book, 
which we had come to teach the people of Hawaii. 
He then asked, if all the people in our native countries 
were acquainted with the Bible. Mr. Ellis answered, 
that, owing to the abundant means of instruction, the 
great proportion of the people had either read the 
book, or had, in some other way, become ac- 
quainted with its principal contents. He then said, 
How is it that so many of them swear, get intoxi- 
cated, and do so many things prohibited in that book? 
He was told, that there was a vast difference between 
knowing the word of God and obeying it; and it 
was most likely those persons knew their conduct 
was displeasing to the God who made them, yet per- 
sisted in it, because agreeable to their corrupt incli- 
nations. He asked, if God would not be angry with 
us, for troubling him so frequently with our prayers; 
if he were like man, he said he was sure he would. 
Mr. Ellis replied, that God was always "waiting to 
be gracious," more ready to hear than we are to 
pray; that indeed, he was not like man, or his pa- 
tience would have been exhausted long ago by the 
wickedness of men; but that he continued exercising 
long suffering and forbearance towards sinners, that 
they might turn from their evil ways and live. 

We supped with the Governor as usual, and con- 
ducted family worship with his household, and after- 
wards prepared our baggage for our journey, somQ 
of which we left to be forwarded by the Ainoa to 
Waiakea, a district on the eastern side of the island. 

18th. About 11 o'clock we waited on the Gover- 
nor, to express our grateful sense of the generous 
hospitality we had experienced from him during our 
protracted stay at Kairua. We also thanked him for 
the friendly advice he had given, and the acceptable 
aid he had so kindly furnished, for the prosecution 
of our journey, and informing him that we were 
ready to proceed. 




r/i &v Mr. mm» 



XjSr.Jorflun Sc. 



"-■ r 



Zcston.^ Finished ' / - ■ Pewter. ^eH-Ybrk.-JofmBSare, 



DESCRIPTION OF THE GUIDE. 63 

He had before given instructions to our guide. 
He now directed the man who was going in the ca- 
noe to take care of our things, and told us he would 
send some men to carry our baggage by land as far 
as Kearake'kua. We then took leave of him, and 
proceeded on our journey. Messrs. Bishop and 
Harvvood went in the canoe; the rest of our number 
travelled on foot 

Our guide Makoa, who had been the king's mes- 
senger many years, and was well acquainted with 
the island, led the way. He was rather a singular 
looking little man, between forty and fifty years of 
age. A thick bunch of long, black, curling hair 
shaded his wrinkled forehead, and another bunch of 
the same kind hung down behind each of his ears. 
The rest of his head was cropped as short as shears 
could make it. His small black eyes were orna- 
mented with tatou'd Vandyke semi-circles. Two 
goats, impressed in the same indelible manner, stood 
rampant over each brow; one, like the supporter of 
a coat of arms, stood on each side of his nose; and 
two more guarded the corners of his mouth. The 
upper part of his beard was shaven close; but that 
which grew under his chin was drawn together, 
braided for an inch or two, and then tied in a knot, 
%vhile the extremities below the knot spread out in 
curls like a tassel. A light kihei* was carelessly 
thrown over one shoulder, and tied in a knot on tbe 
other, and a large fan, made of cocoa nut leaves, in 
his hand, served to beat away the flies, or the boys, 
when either became too numerous, or troublesome. 

Leaving Kairua, we passed on through the villages 
thickly scattered along the shore to the southward. 
The country around looked unusually green and 
cheerful, owing to the frequent rains, which, for 
some months past, have fallen on this side of the 
island. Even the barren lava, over which we tra- 
velled, seemed to veil its sterility beneath frequent 

* Cloth worn like a shawl. 



64 TARIOUS TEMPLES, 

tufts of tall waving grass, or spreading shrubs and 
flowers. The sides of the hills, laid out for a con- 
siderable extent in gardens and fields, and generally- 
cultivated with potatoes, &c. looked very beautiful. 
The number of heiaus and depositories of the dead, 
which we passed, convinced us that this part of the 
island must once have been exceedingly popu- 
lous. The former were built with fragments of lava 
laid up evenly on the outside, generally about eight 
feet long, from four to six broad, and about four 
high. Some appeared very ancient; others had evi- 
dently been standing but a few years. 

At Ruapua, we examined an interesting heiau, 
called Kauaikahaora, built of immense blocks of lava, 
and found its dimensions to be 150 feet by 70. At 
the north end was a smaller enclosure 60 feet long, 
and 10 wide, partitioned off by a high w T all, with but 
one narrow entrance. The places where the idols 
formerly stood, were apparent, though the idols have 
been removed. The spot where the altar formerly 
stood, could be distinctly traced. It was a mound 
of earth paved with smooth stones, and surrounded 
by a firm curb of lava. The adjacent ground was 
strewed with the bones of ancient offerings. The 
natives informed us, that four principal idols were 
supposed to preside there; one of stone, two of wood, 
and one of red feathers. One of these idols, they 
said, was brought from a foreign country. Their 
names were Kanenuiakea, (great and wide-spreading 
Kane,) who was brought from Tauai; Kaneruruhonua, 
(earth-shaking Kane;) Roramakaeha, and Kekuaai- 
manu. 

Leaving the heiau we had been examining, we 
passed by a number of smaller temples, principally 
on the same shore, dedicated to Kuura, a male, and 
Hina, a female idol, worshipped by fishermen; as 
they were supposed to preside over the sea, and to 
conduct or impel to the shores of Hawaii, the various 
shoals of fish, that visited them at different seasons 
of the year. The first of any kind of Jish taken in 



FABULOUS TRADITION. 65 

the season, was always presented to them, espec- 
ially the qperu, a kind of herring. This custom 
exactly accords with the former practice of the So- 
ciety Islanders. 

At 2, P. M. we reached Horuaroa, a large and pop- 
ulous district. Here we found Keoua, the Governor's 
wife, and her attendants, who had come from Kai- 
rua for wauti, with which to make cloth. Shortly 
after we reached Karuaokalani, (the second heaven,) 
where was a fine heiau in good preservation. It is 
called Pakiha; its dimensions were 270 feet by 210. 
We could not learn to what idol it was dedicated, 
but were informed that it was built in the time of 
Keakealani, who, according to tradition, was Queen 
of Hawaii about eleven generations back. The walls 
w T ere very solid, thick, and nearly entire; and the 
singular manner in which the stones were piled upon 
the top, like so many small spires, gave it an unu- 
sually interesting appearance. liefore we left Ka- 
ruaokalani, the inhabitants pointed out to us a spot 
called Maukareoreo, the place of a celebrated giant 
of that name, who was one of the attendants of Umi, 
king of Hawaii, about twelve generations back; and 
who, they told us, was so tali, that he could pluck 
the cocoa nuts from the trees as he walked along; 
and when the king was playing in the surf, where 
it was five or six fathoms deep, would walk out to 
him without being wet above his loins; and when 
he was in a canoe, if he saw any fish lying among 
the coral at the same depth, would just put his hand 
down and take them. They also told us he was a 
great warrior, and that to his prowess, principally, 
Umi was indebted for many of his victories. The 
Hawaiians are fond of the marvellous, as well as many 
people, who are better informed; and probably this 
passion, together with the distance of time since 
Maukareoreo existed, has led tlieni* to magnify one 
of Umi's followers, of perhaps a little larger stature 
than his fellows, into a giant sixty feet high. 
* 6 



66 SPECIMEN OF NATIVE CREDUUTY. 

Our road now lay through a pleasant part of the 
district, thickly inhabited, and ornamented occa- 
sionally with clumps of kou trees. Several spots 
were pointed out to us; where the remains of heiaus, 
belonging to the late king Tamehameha, were 
still visible. After travelling some time, we came to 
Kanekaheilani, a large heiau, more than 200 feet 
square. In the midst of it was a clear pool of brack- 
ish water, which, the natives told us, was the favour- 
ite bathing place of Tamehameha; and which he al- 
lowed no other person to use. A rude figure, carved 
in stone, standing on one side of the gateway by 
which we entered, was the only image we saw here. 
About fifty yards farther on, was another heiau, call- 
ed Hale o Tairi, (house of Tairi.) It was built by 
Tamehameha, soon after he had assumed the govern- 
ment of the island. Only one mutilated image was 
now standing, though it is evident that, but a few 
years ago, there had been many. The natives were 
particular to show us the place where the image of 
the war-god stood; and told us that frequently, in 
the evening, he used to be flying about in the neigh- 
bourhood, in the form of a luminous substance, like a 
flame, or like the tail of a comet. We told them that 
the luminous appearance they saw, was an occurrence 
common to other countries, and produced by natural 
causes; that the natives of the Society Islands, for- 
merly, whenever they observed such a phenomenon, 
supposed it to be Tane, one of their gods, taking his 
flight from one moral to another, or passing through 
the district seeking whom he might destroy, and 
were constantly filled with terror; but now, they 
wondered how they could ever have given way to 
such fears from so inoffensive a circumstance. We 
asked them, if they did not see JJhe same appearan- 
ces now, though the god had been destroyed, and his 
worship discontinued. They said, "No; it had not 
been seen, since the abolition of idolatry." We as- 
sured them it did not proceed &om the power of the, 



TRACT OF RUGGED LAVA. 67 

god Tairi, but was a luminous vapour, and was under 
the controul of Jehovah, the Creator and Governor 
of all things which they beheld. 

We walked on to Pahoehoe, where we entered a 
large house, in which many workmen were employ- 
ed in making canoes. About fifty people soon after 
assembled around us. We asked them if they should 
like to hear about the true God, and the way of sal- 
vation. They answered, "Yes," Mr. Ellis, there- 
fore, addressed them for about twenty minutes on 
the first principles of the Gospel. As soon as he be- 
gan to preach, they all sat down, and observed the 
most perfect silence. Shortly after this service, we 
took our leave and proceeded along the shore. 

At Kahalu, a smart shower of rain obliged us to 
take shelter in a house by the road-side. While 
resting there, the voice of wailing reached our ears. 
We inquired whence it came, and were informed, 
that a sick person in the neighbourhood had just ex- 
pired. We asked where the soul was gone. They 
answered, they kaew not whither, but that it would 
never return. Mr. Ellis then spoke to them re- 
specting the condition of departed souls, the resur- 
rection of the body, and the judgment which will 
follow. He afterwards told them of the love of 
Christ, who had brought life and immortality to 
light, and, by his death, had secured eternal life to 
all who believe in him. They listened attentively, 
and continued the conversation till the rain abated, 
when we pursued our journey. 

We passed another large heiau, and travelled about 
a mile across a rugged bed of lava, which had evi- 
dently been ejected from a volcano more recently than 
the vast tracts of the same substance, by which it was 
surrounded. It also appeared to have been torn to 
pieces, and tossed up in the most confused manner, 
by some violent convulsion of the earth, at the time 
it was in a semi-fluid state. There was a kind of 
path formed across the most level part of it, by 
large, smooth, round stones, brought from the sea- 



68 POPULATION ALONG THE COAST. 

shore, and placed three or four feet apart. By step- 
ping from one to another of these, we passed over 
the roughest piece of lava we had yet seen. Soon 
after 5 P. M. we arrived at Keauhou, a pleasant 
village containing 135 houses, about eight miles from 
Kairua. Messrs. Bishop and Harwood reached the 
same place about an hour earlier, and here purposed 
to spend the night. Soon after entering the village, 
about 150 people collected around the house where 
we were. After singing and prayer, Mr. Thurston 
preached to them. They gave good attention, and 
though we conversed with them a considerable time 
after the service was ended, they still thronged our 
house, and seemed unwilling to disperse. 

During our walk from Kairua to this place, we 
numbered 610 houses, and allowed one hundred 
more for those who live among the plantations, on 
the sides of the hills. Beckoning five persons to 
each house, the population of the tract through which 
we passed to day will be about 3,550 souls, which 
we think not far from a correct calculation. We 
also passed 19 heiaus of different dimensions, some 
of which we carefully examined. Late in the eve- 
ning, we spread our mats on the loose pebbles, with 
which the house was filled, and, thankful for the 
mercies we had received, laid ourselves down, and 
enjoyed a comfortable night's repose. Thermometer 
at sunset 71°. 

19th. Early this morning, numbers of the natives 
collected around our lodgings. When informed 
that we were going to conduct religious worship, 
they sat down on the ground, and became quite 
silent. After singing an hymn in their language* 
Mr. Ellis gave them a short exhortation, followed by 
prayer. They afterwards kept us in conversation till 
about half-past eight, when we left Keauhou, and pur- 
sued our journey. Mr. Harwood proceeded in the 
canoe, the rest of our number travelled on foot along 
the shore. Our way lay over a rough tract of lava 
resembling that which we passed yesterday afternoon. 



SCENE OF AX IMPORTANT BATTLE. 63 

In many places, it seemed as if the surface of the lava 
had become hard, while, a few inches underneath, 
it had remained semifluid, and in that state had been 
broken up, and left in its present confused and rugged 
form. The rugged appearance of the lava was prob- 
ably produced in part by the expansive force of the 
heated air beneath the crust of lava, but this could 
not have caused the deep chasms, and fissures which 
we saw in several places. We also observed many 
large spherical volcanic stones, the surface of which 
had been fused, and in some places had peeled off, 
like a crust or shell an inch or two in thickness. 
The centre of some of these stones, which we broke, 
was of a dark blue colour and clayey texture, and did 
not appear to have been at all affected by the fire. 
After travelling about two miles over this barren 
waste, we reached the place, where, in the autumn 
of 1819, the decisive battle was fought between the 
forces of Rihoriho, the present king, and his cousin 
Kekuaokalani, in which the latter was slain, his 
followers completely overthrown, and the cruel 
system of idolatry, which he took up arms to sup- 
port, effectually destroyed. The natives pointed 
out to us the place where the king'? troops, led on 
by Karaimoku, were first attacked by the idolatrous 
party. We saw several small heaps of stones, which 
our guide informed us were the graves of those who 
had fallen there. We were then shown the spot, 
where the king's troops formed a line from the sea- 
shore towards the mountains, and drove the opposing 
party before them, to a rising ground, where a 
stone fence, about breast high, enabled the enemy to 
defend themselves for some time. But they were 
at length driven from it by a party of Karaimoku's 
warriors. The small tumuli now increased in num- 
ber as we passed along, until we arrived at a place 
called Tuamoo. Here Kekuaokalani made his last 
stand, rallied his flying forces, and seemed for a 
moment, to turn the scale of victory. But being 
weak with the loss of blood, from a wound he had 



70 HEROIC AFFECTION OF A NATIVE FEMALE. 

received in the early part of the engagement, he 
fainted and fell. However, he soon revived, and 
though unable to stand, sat on a fragment of lava, 
and twice loaded and fired a musket on the advan- 
cing party. He now received a ball in his left 
breast, and immediately covering his face with his 
feathered cloak, expired in the midst of his friends. 
His wife, Manona, during the whole of the day, 
fought by his side, with steady and dauntless cour- 
age. A few moments after her husband's death, 
perceiving Karaimoku and his sister advancing, she 
called out for quarter, but the words had hardly 
escaped from her lips, when she received a ball in 
her left temple, fell upon the lifeless body of her 
husband, and expired, The idolaters having lost 
their chief, made but feeble resistance afterwards; 
yet the combat, which commenced in the forenoon, 
continued till near sun-set, when the king's troops, 
findiqg their enemies had all either fled or surren- 
dered, returned to Kairua. Karaimoku grieved 
much at the death of Kekuaokalani, who was his 
own sister's son. He delayed the engagement as 
long as possible, and the same morning that the 
battle took place, sent a messenger, addressing the 
young chief as his son, and requesting him to refrain 
from hostilities till they could have an inter- 
view, and if possible effect an accommodation. But 
the message was rejected, and the messenger was 
obliged to jump into the sea, and swim, to save his 
life. In the moment of victory, also, he acted with 
humanity, and, contrary to the usual custom, the 
vanquished w r ere not pursued and murdered in their 
retreats. A little way southward of the spot where 
the chief fell, was a small cave, into which, in the con- 
fusion that followed the death of Kekuaokalani, a wo- 
man attached to his party crept, and, drawing a piece 
of lava over its mouth, remained there until night, 
when she fled to' the mountains, not knowing that 
the victors had returned without pursuing their foes. 



CUSTOM IN WAR RESPECTING FEMALES. 71 

The wives of the warriors often accompanied 
their husbands to the battle, and were frequently 
slain. Their practice in this respect resembled that 
of the Society islanders on similar occasions. They 
generally followed in the rear, carrying calabashes of 
water, or of poe, a little dried fish, or other portable 
provisions, with which to recruit their husbands 5 
strength when weary, or afford a draught of water 
when thirsty, or faint; but they followed, more 
particularly, to be at hand, in case their husbands 
should be wounded. 

Some women being more courageous than the 
rest, or urged on by affection, advanced side by side 
with their husbands to the front of the battle, bear- 
ing a small calabash of water in one hand, and a 
spear, a dart, or a stone in the other; and in the 
event of the husband being killed, they seldom 
survived. 

A pile of stones, somewhat larger than the rest, 
marked the spot where the rival chief, and his affec- 
tionate and heroic wife, expired, A few yards 
nearer the sea, an oblong pile of stones in the form 
of a tomb, about ten feet long, and six wide, was 
raised over the grave, in which they were both 
interred. A number of lowly flowering bushes 
grew around, and a beautiful convolvolus in full 
bloom, almost covered it with its foliage and flowers. 

We could not view it without an increased lamen- 
tation over the miseries of war, and a strong feeling 
of regret for the untimely end of the youthful pair, 
especially for the affectionate Manona, whom even 
the horrors of a savage fight, where the demon of 
war wore his most terrific form, could not prevent 
from following the fortune, sharing the toils, and 
administering to the comfort, of her much loved 
husband. This feeling was not a little increased by 
the recollection of the delusion, of which they were 
the ill-fated victims, and in support of which they 
were prodigal of blood. The piles of stones rose 
thick around the spot where they lay; and we were 



72 CONSEQUENCES OF THE BATTLE. 

informed that they were the graves of his kahii, 
(particular friends and companions,)who stood by him 
to the last, manifesting a^steadfastness, which even 
their enemies admired, and a degree of courage 
worthy of being exercised in a better cause. 

Kekuaokalani was first cousin to Rihoriho. He 
is represented by some as having been an enterpris- 
ing and restless young man, aspiring to share the 
government with his cousin, if not to reign in his 
stead. The late king Tamehameha, a short time 
before his death, left the government of the islands 
to Rihoriho, and the care of the gods and their tem- 
ples to the king, Kekuaokalani, and the rest of the 
chiefs. 

The abolition of idolatry by the former, was the 
immediate occasion of the war, which, terminating 
in his favour, left him sole monarch of the Sandwich 
Islands. This was the summit of his ambition, and 
the consummation of his wishes: though probably 
the least among the all-wise and benevolent pur- 
poses of Him, who ruleth all things after the coun- 
sel of his own will, and causeth even the wrath of 
man to praise him. Little did the pagan chief 
imagine, when he collected his forces, offered his 
sacrifices, and, preceded by his war-god, marched 
to the battle, that he was urging on his way to 
remove the most formidable barrier to the introduc- 
tion of a religion, that should finally triumph over 
every system of idolatry in the world; and as little 
did the victorious chiefs, when they beheld them- 
selves masters of the field, or returned in triumph to 
the king, think their success had prepared the way 
for their own subjection to a more rightful prince, 
whose heralds (then on their way,) should soon 
unfurl his banner in their camp, sound his trumpet 
on their shores and demand their allegiance to his 
crown; whose divine power should erect among 
tbem a kingdom, of which they themselves should 
delight to become subjects, and establish a dominion^ 
that should be everlasting. 



TOMB OF A CELEBRATED PRIEST. 73 

Leaving Tuamoo, we passed on to Honuaino, 
where, being thirsty and weary, we sat down on the 
side of a canoe, under the shade of a fine spreading 
hebiscus, and begged a little water of some of the 
villagers. We had not remained many minutes, 
before we were surrounded by about 150 people. 
After explaining to them, in few words, our feelings 
on meeting them, we asked them if they should like 
to hear what we had to say to them. They replied, 
Jle, (yes,) and sat down immediately. After sing- 
ing a hymn, and prayer, Mr. Ellis addressed them 
for about half an hour on the first principles of 
Christianity. They all appeared gratified, said they 
were naaupo, (dark hearted,) and should be glad to 
be instructed in all these things, if they had any 
body to teach them. We now travelled on to Ho- 
kukano, where we passed a pahu tabu (sacred en- 
closure,) which the natives told us was built by 
Taraniobu, usually called Taraiopu,* king of the 
island at the time it was discovered by Capt. Cook. 
A little further on, we examined the buoa (tomb) 
of a celebrated priest. It was composed of loose 
stones, neatly laid up, about eight feet square, and 
five feet high. In the centre was a small mound of 
earth, higher than the walls. Over this a house 
had formerly been erected, but it was now fallen to 
decay. Around it were long poles, stuck in the 
earth, about three or four inches apart, and united 
together at the top. We asked why the grave was 
enclosed with those tall sticks. Some said it was 
a custom so to inter persons of consequence. Others 
said it was to prevent the spirit from coming out. 
On the top of a high mountain in the neighbourhood, 
stood the remains of an old heiau, dedicated to 
Ukanipo, a shark, to which, we were informed, all 
the people along the coast for a considerable distance, 
used to repair, at stated times, with abundant offer- 
ings. 

* The Terreoboo of Capt Cook* 

7 



74 ACCOUNT OF CAPT. COOK ? S DEATH, 

Passing on along a rugged road, we reached Kaa- 
varoa soon after 2 P. M. Kamakau received us 
kindly, spread out a mat for us to sit down on, 
handed us a calabash of good fresh water, (a great 
luxury on this side of the island,) and ordered a goat 
to be prepared for our refreshment. He appeared 
as zealous in the pursuit of truth, as earnest in his 
desires after salvation, and as concerned for the salva- 
tion of his people, as when the brethren had 
formerly visited him. One or two inferiour chiefs, 
from a district belonging to him in the south part of 
the island, were sitting in the house, w T hen we entered. 
He afterwards began to talk with them about relig- 
ion, with a seriousness and intelligence, that sur- 
prised us. 

In the afternoon, some of us climbed the rocks, and 
visited the cave where the body of Capt. Cook was 
deposited, on being first taken ffom the beach. 

There are a number of persons at this and ofher 
places in the islands, who were either present them- 
selves at the unhappy dispute, which in this village 
caused the death of the celebrated Capt. Cook, or 
who, by their connexion with those who were, are 
intimately acquainted with the particulars of that 
melancholy event. With many of them we have 
frequently conversed, and though their narratives 
differ in some smaller points, yet they all agree in the 
main facts published by Capt. King, his successor. 

The foreigner, they say, was not to blame; for, in 
the first instance, our people stole his boat, and he 
designed to take our king on board and detain him 
tilj it should be returned. Capt. Cook and Taraiopu 
were walking together towards the shore, when our 
people thronged round the king, and objected to his 
going any farther. While he was hesitating, a man, 
running from the other side of the bay, entered the 
crowd almost breathless, and exclaimed, "It is war! 
The foreigners have commenced hostilities, have 
fired on a canoe from one of their boats, and killed a 
chief." This enraged some of our people, and 



ACCOUNT OF CAPT. COOK 7 S DEATH. 10 

alarmed the chiefs, as they feared he would kill the 
king. The people armed themselves with stones, 
clubs, and spears. Kanona entreated her husband 
not to go. All the chiefs did the same. The king 
sat down. The foreigner seemed agitated, and start- 
ed for his boat. Then one of our men attacked him 
with a spear, but he turned, and, with his double bar- 
relled gun, shot the man who struck him. Some of 
our people then threw stones at him, which, being 
seen by his men, they fired on us. Capt. Cook turn- 
ed, and tried to stop his men from firing, but he 
could not, on account of the noise. He was turning 
again to speak to us, when he was stabbed in his 
back with apahoa. A spear was at the same instant 
driven through his body. He fell into the water, 
and spake no more. After he was dead we all wailed. 
His bones were separated, and the flesh scraped off 
and burnt; as was the practice in regard to our own 
chiefs when they died. We thought he was our god 
Sono 9 worshipped him as such, and reverenced his 
bones. 

Several of the chiefs frequently express the sorrow 
they feel whenever they think of him, and the peo- 
ple, generally, speak of these facts with much appar- 
ent regret. Yet they free the king from all bl#me, 
as nothing was done by his orders. 

It has been supposed, that the circumstance of his 
bones being separated, and the flesh taken off, was 
evidence of the most savage and unrelenting barbari- 
ty; but so far from this, it was the highest respect 
they could show him, as will be seen more fully 
hereafter. We may also mention here, the ground 
on which Capt. Cook received the worship of a god. 
Among the kings, ivho governed Hawaii, during 
what may, in its chronology, be called the fabulous 
age, was Rono, or Crono. On some accounts, he be- 
came offended with his wife, and slew her. After 
this, he lamented so much, that he fell into a state of 
derangement, and in this state travelled through all 
the islands, boxing with every one he met He then 



76 HpNOURS RENDERED TO HIS REMAINS. 

$et off in a canoe for a foreign country. After 
his departure, he was deified by his countrymen, and 
annual boxing and wrestling games were instituted 
in his honour. As soon as Capt. Cook arrived, it 
was supposed and reported, that the god Rono, had 
returned. Hence, the people prostrated their dei- 
ties before him, as he walked through the villages. 
But when, in the attack made upon him, they saw 
his blood runeing, and heard his groans, they said, 
"No, this is not Rono." Some, however, even after 
his death, supposed bim to be Rono, and expected he 
would appear again. After the departure of the ves- 
sels, some of his bones, his ribs and breast bone, as 
part of Rono, were considered sacred, and deposited 
in a heiau, or temple, belonging to Rono, on the op- 
posite side of the island, where religious homage was 
paid to them, and from which they were annually 
carried in procession to several other heiaus, or 
borne by the priests round the island to collect the 
offerings of the people to the god Rono. The bones 
were preserved in a small basket of wicker work, 
completely covered over with red feathers. These 
last, in those days, were the most valuable arti- 
cles the natives possessed, generally rendered sacred, 
and considered a necessary appendage to every idol, 
and almost to every object of religious homage, 
through the islands of the Pacific. They w r ere sup- 
posed to add much to the power and influence of the 
idol, or relic, to which they were attached. 

The missionaries in the Society Islands had, by 
means of some Sandwich Islanders, been many years 
acquainted with the circumstance of some of Capt. 
Cook's bones being preserved in one of their temples, 
atid receiving religious worship, and, ever since the 
arrival of Mr. Ellis, in company with the Deputa- 
tion, in 1822, every endeavour has been made to 
learn, whether they w r ere still in existence, and where 
they were kept. All those, of whom inquiry has 
been made, have uniformly asserted, that they were 
formerly kept by some of the friends of Rono, and 



HONOURS RENDERED TO HIS REMAINS. 77 

worshipped, but have never given any satisfactory 
information, as to where they now are. Whenever 
we have asked the king, or Kevaheva, the chief 
priest, or any of the chiefs, they have either told us 
they were under the care of those, who had them- 
selves told us they knew nothing about them, or that 
they were now lost. 

After the investigation, that has been made, we 
have no doubt, but that part of Capt. Cook's bones 
were preserved by the priests, and were considered 
sacred by the people, probably till the abolition of 
idolatry in 1819. At that period, most likely they 
were committed to the secret care of some chief, or 
deposited by the priests, who had charge of them, in 
some cave unknown to all besides themselves. The 
manner in which they were then disposed of, will 
probably remain a secret, except to the parties im- 
mediately concerned. The priests and chiefs al- 
ways appear unwilling to enter into conversation on 
the subject, and seem to wish to avoid renewing the 
recollection of the unhappy circumstance. 

Towards evening we examined another buoa> sim- 
ilar to the one we had passed at Hokukano. On en- 
tering it, we found part of a canoe, several cala- 
bashes, some mats, tapa, &c. and three small idols, 
about eighteen inches long, carefully wrapped up in 
cloth. The man, who accompanied us, said, "My 
father lies here, don't disturb him; I have not yet done 
weeping for him, though he has been dead some 
years. " We assured him of our sympathy with him 
in the loss of his father; and having satisfied our cu* 
riosity, which he was willing to gratify by allowing 
us to enter the tomb, we returned to the house of 
Kamakau, in conversation with whom, we spent 
the evening. He made many inquiries, such as 
whether he should bathe on the Sabbath, or eat fish 
that was brought to him, or caught, on that day; 
whether the same body would rise again at the last day $ 
whether the spirit proceeded into the presence of 
7* 



78 EVANGELICAL LABOURS. 

God immediately on quitting the body; and others 
of a similar character. 

During our journey to day, we have numbered 
443 houses, and eight heiaus. In the shade, the ther- 
mometer, at sun-rise, stood at 71°; at noon, 76 Q ; and 
at sun-set, 71°. 

20th. Sabbath. Considerable rain had fallen in 
the night, but the morning was bright and serene. 
A wide field of usefulness presented itself, claiming 
our attention on this holy day, which we all felt was 
specially to be employed in exhibiting to the heathen 
around, the unsearchable riches of Christ. 

The village of Kaavaroa, where we lodged, stretch- 
es along the north shore of the bay. A number of 
villages, and a considerable population are scatter- 
ed on the southern shore; and it appeared our duty to 
go over and preach to them. Two of our number, 
Messrs. Bishop and Ellis, having procured a canoe 
from Kamakau, passed over about 9 A. M. Messrs. 
Thurston, Goodrich, and Harwood remained at 
Kaavaroa, where Mr. Thurston preached to very at- 
tentive congregations, both in the morning and af- 
ternoon. The good chief Kamakau was so anxious 
that his people might profit by the word spoken, that 
he could not forbear interrupting the discourse tore- 
quest them to be attentive. After the conclusion of 
the services, he also addressed them, and exhorted 
them to be in earnest, in seeking salvation through 
Jesus Christ. The brethren observed, with great 
pleasure, that, during the day, he was frequently en- 
gaged in affectionate conversation on religious sub- 
jects, with some one or other of his people. 

On landing at the southern shore of Keara'kekua, 
Messrs. Ellis and Bishop passed through the villa- 
ges of Kiloa, Waipunaula, and Kalama, inviting the 
people, as they went along, to attend a religious ex- 
ercise. At the latter place, they entered a large 
house built by Karaimoku's mother, Kamauokalani, 
but at present belonging to Kekauonohi his niece. It 
was the largest in the place, and was 93 feet by 30 ; 



EVANGELICAL LABOURS. 



79 



in the inside. Here about 300 people collected; a i ;d 
(after singing and prayer,) Mr. Ellis preached to 
them from Psalms xxv, 8. After the service, they 
seemed desirous to enter into conversation on what 
they had heard. One man stood up, and called out 
aloud, "I desire Jehovah, the good Lord, for my 
God, but we have no one to tell us about him." In 
the afternoon, we sent word to the head-man to col- 
lect the people to hear the word of God again. 

It rained, but a considerable number soon collect- 
ed in the large house, and Mr. Ellis preached to them 
from 1 Tim. i, 15. Many arrived half an hour 
after the service had commenced, which induced Mr. 
Ellis to recapitulate his discourse-, yet they did not 
seem weary. When it was finished, the head-man 
addressed the people, recommending them to attend 
to what they had heard, and proposed that hence- 
forth they should abstain from all labour on the Sab- 
bath, and pray to Jehovah and Jesus Christ, assuring 
them that such was his intention. After answering 
several inquiries, the brethren prepared to proceed 
to another village. Two large heaps of tii root, (a 
variety of Dracaena, a sweet root, of which an in- 
toxicating drink is made,) and one or two vessels of 
sugar-cane juice in a state of fermentation, were, 
during the day, thrown away at this place, in conse- 
quence of some remarks made against intoxication. 

After leaving Kalama, they walked to Keei, a con- 
siderable village on the south point of the bay. As 
they approached it, they passed over the ground^ 
where, about forty years ago, Tamehameha encamp- 
ed with his warriors, previous to his decisive battles 
with Kivaraao, the son of Taraiopu. On reaching 
the head-man's house, about 100 people soon collect- 
ed before the door, and Mr. Ellis preached to them 
from Psalms lxx, 4. They then went into the house 
prepared for their lodging, which the good people 
soon made very comfortable, by spreading some 
cocoa-nut leaves on the ground, which they covered 
with a clean mat. The kind host then proposed to 



SO HAWAIIAN NOTIONS OF A FUTURE STATE. 

fetch a pig, and have it dressed for supper. They 
told him they had rather he would not do it on the 
Sabbath, but that, if agreeable, they should be glad 
to receive one in the morning. Having conducted 
family worship, they laid down on their mats to re- 
pose, thankful for the opportunities of doing good, 
which they had enjoyed, and for the encouraging at- 
tention manifested by the people. 



CHAPTER IV. 

f 

Hawaiian notions of a future state. — Account of 
the battle at Mokuohai. — Indisposition of Mr. 
Ellis. — Burying place of the ancient Hawaiian 
Kings. — The Puhonua, or City of refuge. — An- 
cient cataract of lava, and singular vaulted 
avenue. — Journey along the shore. — Custom on 
the death of a chief — Singular pillars of lava. 
— Scarcity of fresh water. — Division of Kona. 
— Appearance of the south-west part of the 
island. — Keavaiti. — Evangelical labours at Pa- 
tini. 

July 21st. In the morning, those of the party who 
were at Kaavaroa, visited the spot where Capt. Cook 
was killed, and broke off fragments from the rock 
of lava, on which he fell. On their return they pur- 
chased, for a piece of blue cotton about three yards 
in length, four small idols. They were rudely carv- 
ed imitations of the human figure, one of them be- 
tween three and four feet in length, the others not 
more than eighteen inches. Having conducted fami- 
ly worship and breakfasted with Kamakau and his 
family, they took their leave, and passed over to the 
other side of the bay. 

The house, in which Messrs. Bishop and Ellis 
had lodged, Was crowded with natives. Mr. Ellis 
conducted morning worship in the native language, 



BATTLE OP MOKUOHAI. 81 

and gave a short address to the people. He after- 
wards had a very interesting conversation with them 
on the resurrection of the dead at the last day. They 
said they had heard of it by Kapihe, a native priest, 
who formerly resided there, and who, in the time of 
Tamehameha, told him that at his death he would 
see his ancestors, and that hereafter all the kings, 
chiefs, and people of Hawaii would live again. 

At eight o'clock, a small pig, very nicely baked 
under ground, and a calabash full of potatoes, were 
brought in for breakfast. The travellers were both 
too ill to partake of the bounty of their kind host, 
yet felt grateful for his attention. At 9 A. M. they 
were joined by their companions from Kaavaroa, and 
shortly after we set out again on our tour. Mr. 
Bishop went in the canoe: the rest of us walked on 
towards Honaunau, a considerable village about five 
miles distant. 

Leaving Keei, we passed on to Mokuohai, a spot 
celebrated as the place where, in the year 17S0, the 
great battle was fought between Kauikeouli, eldest 
son and successor of Taraiopu, and his cousin Ta- 
rnehameha, by which the latter, though before only 
possessed of two districts, became sovereign of the 
whole island. This battle is considered by most of 
Tamehameha's friends, (who frequently allude to it 
in talking of him,) as the foundation of all his subse- 
quent power and greatness in the Sandwich Islands, 
During seven successive days, a severe conflict was 
maintained with doubtful success. On the morning 
of the eighth day, it was renewed with augmented 
fury on both sides, and continued raging till noon, 
when the death of Kauikeouli terminated the strug- 
gle in favour of his rival. The circumstances at- 
tending his death were singular. 

Keeaumoku, (the father of Kuakini, Kaahumanu 
.and Piia,) Tamehameha's principal general, with a 
few of his companions, had advanced a considerable 
distance beyond the main body of his warriors, and 
was completely surrounded by Kauikeouli's men, 



SB BATTLE OF MOKUOHAJ, 

After defending themselves for a considerable time 
against superiour numbers, all the associates of Kee- 
aumoku were slain. He himself was dangerously 
wounded by a number of stabs with the pahoa* 
and fell in the midst of his enemies; who thought 
him mortally wounded, and were proceeding to de- 
spoil him of his ornaments, &c. Kauikeouli ap- 
proached, and called out to them to take care of the 
paraoa^ stooping down himself, at the same time, 
to untie it. Keeaumoku, recovering from a swoon, 
and seeing Kauikeouli bending over him, made a 
sudden spring, and grasped him round the neck, or, 
(as some of the natives say,) by his long flowing hair; 
and, being a man of uncommon stature and strength, 
held him down. Kauikeouli endeavoured, but in 
vain, to extricate himself from his grasp. At this 
instant Tamehameha and his attendants, having heard 
that Keeaumoku had fallen, hastened to the spot, and 
one of them, Narimaerua, perceiving the situation 
of Kauikeouli, rushed forward, ran a spear through 
his body, and then stabbed him with a pahoa. He 
fell upon the body of Keeaumoku, and instantly ex- 
pired. Keoua, his uncle, who fought near him, was 
wounded in the thigh by a spear 5 and obliged to quit 
the field. 

As soon as the death of Kauikeouli was known, a 
panic spread among his men, and they quickly fled 
in every direction. Many jumped into the sea, and 
swam to some canoes lying off the place;J and the 
rest fled to the mountains, or the adjoining puho- 
nua, (place of refuge,) at Honaunau, about four miles 
distant. Tamehameha now remained master of the 
field, and before evening reached Honaunau, the 
former residence of the vanquished chiefs. 

* The pahoa is a dagger from eighteen inches to two feet in length, made of 
wood, or iron. Capt. Cook was killed by one of them. 

t A finely polished ornament made of a whale's tooth, highly valued by the na<- 
tives, and worn on the breast, suspended by a necklace of curiously braided human 
jfoair, I 

t Among these was Karaimoku, then a youth, now principal chief of the Sand" 
meh Islands, r r 



INDISPOSITION OF MR. ELtlS. S3 

The scene of this sanguinary engagement was a 
large tract of rugged lava, the whole superficies of 
which had been broken up by an earthquake. Since 
leaving Keei, we had seen several heaps of stones 
raised over the bones of the slain; but they now be- 
came much more numerous. As we passed along, 
our guide pointed out the place where Tairi, Tame- 
hameha's war-god, stood, surrounded by the priests, 
and a little farther on, he showed us the place where 
Tamehameha himself, his sisters, and friends, fought 
during the early part of the eighth day. A few min- 
utes after we had left it, we reached a large heap of 
stones, which marks the spot where Kauikeouli was 
slain. The numerous piles of stones, which we saw 
in every direction, convinced us, that the number of 
those who fell on both sides, must have been very 
considerable. 

Shortly after leaving the battle ground, Mr. Ellis 
was too ill to proceed. He had, ever since Satur- 
day last, suffered violent pain, probably induced by 
the bad water we had been obliged to drink since 
leaving Kairua. After reclining sometime on the 
lava, he was able to travel as far as Honaunau, where 
we arrived about noon. The town contains 147 
houses; yet we could procure no other accommoda- 
tion, than that which an open canoe-house afforded. 
Here we spread a mat for Mr. Ellis, whose indisposi- 
tion continued violent until night. 

Toward evening Mr. Thurston preached to the 
people, who gave good attention. 

22d. Mr. Ellis was considerably better this morn- 
ing, yet too ill to resume the journey to day. 

After breakfast, Messrs. Thurston and Goodrich 
examined the inland part of the district, and found, 
after proceeding about two miles from the sea, that 
the ground was generally cultivated. They passed 
through considerable groves of the bread-fruit tree, 
saw many cocoanuts, and numbers of the prickly 
pear (Cactus Jicus indicus,) growing very large, 
and loaded with fruit They also found many peo- 



84 BURYING PLACE OP ANCIENT KINGS. 

pie residing at the distance of from two to four miles 
from the beach, in the midst of their plantations, 
who seemed to enjoy an abundance of provisions 
seldom possessed by those on the sea-shore. They 
returned about noon. 

Finding ourselves Jn want of cooking utensils, and 
a little tea and sugar, which, in order to lighten our 
baggage, we had left at Kairua, and perceiving our 
stock of medicines nearly expended, it was thought 
best that one of our number should return for them; 
Mr. Thurston accordingly left Honaunau in the 
canoe, at 2 P. M,, and reached Kairua about sunset. 
He returned about 3 the next morning, with most of 
the articles we needed. 

23d. The last night was a restless one to us all, 
on account of the swarms of vermin that infested our 
lodgings. Mr. Ellis not yet well enough to proceed. 

Another day's detention afforded us time for the 
more minute examination of whatever was interest- 
ing in the neighbourhood, and the more ample de- 
velopement of the object of our visit to the unen- 
lightened people of the village: and those were the 
occupations of the day. 

Honaunau, we found, was formerly a plaee of con- 
siderable importance, having been the frequent resi- 
dence of the kings of Hawaii, for several successive 
generations. 

The monuments of the ancient idolatry, with 
which this place abounds, were, from some cause un- 
known to us, spared, amidst the general destruction 
of the idols, &c. that followed the abolition of the 
aitabuj in the summer of 1819. 

The principal object, that attracted our attention, 
was the hare o Keave (house of Keave,) a sacred 
depository of the bones of departed kings and 
princes, probably erected as a depository for the 
bones of the king whose name it bears, and who 
reigned in Hawaii, about eight generations back. It 
is a compact building, 24 feet by 16, constructed 
with the most durable timber, and thatched with ti 




3 








GS 




_ 


? : 




* 








[ft 




> 






s 







BURYING PLACE OF ANCIENT fclNGS. 85 

leaves, standing on a bed of lava, which runs out a 
considerable distance into the sea. It is surrounded 
by a strong fence, or paling, leaving an area in the 
front and at each end, about twenty-four feet wide, 
paved with smooth fragments of lava laid down with 
considerable skill. Several rudely carved male and 
female images of wood were placed on the outside 
of the enclosure; some on low pedestals, under the 
shade of an adjacent tree; others on high posts, on the 
jutting rocks that hung over the edge of the water. 
A number stood on the fence at unequal distances all 
around; but the principal assemblage of these fright- 
ful representatives of their former deities, was at the 
south-east end of the enclosed space, where, forming 
a semicircle, twelve of them stood in grim array, as 
if perpetual guardians of "the mighty dead" repos- 
ing in the house adjoining. A pile of stones was 
neatly laid up in the form of a crescent, about three 
feet wide, and two feet higher than the pavement, 
and in this pile the images were fixed. They stood 
on small pedestals three or four feet high, though 
some were placed on pillars eight or ten feet in. 
height, and curiously carved. The principal idol 
stood in the centre, the others on either hand, the 
most powerful being placed nearest to him. He was 
not so lanre as some of the others, but was distin- 
guished by the variety and superior carving of his 
body, and especially of his head. Once they had 
evidently been clothed, but now they appeared in 
the most indigent nakedness. A few tattered shreds 
round the neck of one that stood on the left hand 
side of the door, rotted by the rain, and bleached 
by the sun, were all that remained of numerous and 
gaudy habiliments, with which their votaries had 
formerly arrayed them. 

A large pile of broken calabashes and cocoariut- 
shells lay in the centre, and a considerable heap of 
dried and partly rotten wreaths of flowers, branches 
of shrubs and bushes, and fragments of tapa, (the ac- 
cumulated offerings of former days,) formed at* un- 
8 



S6 HAWAIIAN CITY OP REFUGE. 

sightly mound immediately before each of the im- 
ages. The horrid stare of these idols, the tattered 
garments upon some of them, and the heaps of rot- 
ting offerings before them, seemed to us no improper 
emblems of the system they were designed to sup- 
port; distinguished alike by its cruelty, folly, and 
wretchedness. 

We endeavoured to gain admission to the inside 
of the house, but were told it was tabu roa, (strictly 
prohibited,) and that nothing but a direct order from 
the king, or Karaimoku, could open the door. 
However, by pushing one of the boards across the 
door way, a little on one side, we looked in and 
saw many large images, some of wood very much 
carved, others of red feathers, with widely distend- 
ed mouths, large rows of sharks teeth, and glaring 
pearl-shell eyes. We also saw several bundles of 
human bones, cleaned, carefully tied up, and placed 
in different parts of the house* together with some 
rich shawls and other valuable articles, probably 
worn by those, to whom the bones belonged, as the 
wearing apparel, and other personal property of the 
chiefs, is generally buried with them. 

When we had gratified our curiosity, and Mr. 
Ellis had taken a drawing of the building, we pro- 
ceeded to examine other remarkable objects of the 
place. 

Adjoining the Hare o Keave, to the southward, 
we found a pahu tabu (sacred inclosure) of con- 
siderable extent; and were informed by our guide, 
that it was one of the pohonuas of Hawaii, of 
which we had so often heard the chiefs and others 
speak. There are only two on the island, the one, 
which we were then examining, and another at Wai- 
pio, on the north-east part of the island, in the dis- 
trict of Kohala. 

These Puhonuas were the Hawaiian Cities of ref- 
uge, and afforded an inviolable sanctuary to the 
guilty fugitive, who, when flying from the aveng- 
ing spear, was so favoured as to enter their precincts- 



HAWAIIAN CITY OF REFUGE. 87 

This had several wide entrances, some on the side 
next the sea, the others facing the mountains. 
Hither the manslayer, the man who had broken a 
tabu, or failed in the observance of its rigid require- 
ments, the thief, and even the murderer, fled from 
his incensed pursuers, and was secure. To whom- 
soever he belonged, and from whatever part he 
came, he was always sure of admittance; though 
liable to be pursued even to the gates of the enclo- 
sure. Happily for him, those gates were perpetu- 
ally open. Whenever war was proclaimed, and dur 7 
ing the period of actual hostilities, a white flag was 
unfurled on the top of a tall spear, on the outside, 
at each end of the enclosure, and until the conclu- 
sion of peace, waved the symbal of hope to those, 
who, vanquished in fight, might flee thither for pro- 
tection. To the spot, on which this banner was 
unfurled, the victorious warrior might chase his 
routed foes. But here he must himself fall back. 
Beyond it he must not advance one step, on pain of 
forfeiting his life. The priests and their adherents 
would immediately put to death any one, who 
should have the temerity to follow, or molest those, 
who were once within the pale of the pahu tabu, 
and, and as they expressed it, under the shade, or 
skreening protection, of the spirit of Keave, the 
tutelar deity of the place. 

In one part of the enclosure, houses were former- 
ly erected for the priests, and others for the refugees, 
who, after a certain period, or at the cessation of 
war, were dismissed by the priests, and returned 
unmolested to their dwellings and families; no one 
venturing to injure those, who, when they fled to 
the gods, had been protected by them. We could 
not learn the length of time it was necessary for 
them to remain in the Puhonua; but it did not ap- 
pear to be more than two or three days. After 
that, they either attached themselves to the serviee 
of the priests, or returned to their homes. 



88. HAWAIIAN CITY OP REFUGE, 

The Puhonua at Honaunau is a very capacious 
one, capable of containing a vast multitude of people, 
In time of war, the females, children, and old peo- 
ple of the neighbouring districts, were generally left 
within it, while the men went to battle. Here they 
awaited in safety the issue of the conflict, and were 
secure against surprise and destruction in the event 
of a defeat. 

The form of it was an irregular parallelogram, 
walled upon one side, and both ends, the other 
being formed by the sea-beach, except on the norths 
west end, where there was a low fence. On meas- 
uring it, we found it to be 715 feet in length, and 
404 feet wide. The walls were 12 feet high, and 
fifteen thick. Holes in the top of the wall were 
stUl visible, where large images formerly stood; 
about four rods apart, through its whole extent. 

Within these enclosures were three large heiaus, 
two of which w T ere considerably demolished, while 
the other was nearly entire. It was a compact pile 
of stones, laid up in a solid mass, 126 feet by 65 y 
and ten feet high. Many fragments of rock, or 
pieces of lava, of two or more tons each, were seen 
in several parts of the wall, raised at least six feet 
from the ground. The erection of such a place as 
the Puhonua at Honaunau, under the circumstances 
and with the means by which it was reared, must 
have been an herculean task, and could not have 
been completed but by the labour of many hands. 
We could not learn how long it had been standing, 
but were informed it was built for Keave, who 
reigned in Hawaii about 250 years ago. The walls 
and heiaus, indeed, looked^ as if they might claim 
such antiquity; but the house of Keave, and the 
images, must have been renewed since that time. 

We had often passed over the ruins of deserted 
heathen temples, and the vestiges of demolished 
altars in the Sandwich Islands; and one of our num- 
ber, those in several groups of the Pacific; but the 
feelings excited on these occasions, had always been 



SINGULAR VAULTED AVENUE. 89 

those of deep melancholy and horror, at the human 
immolations and shocking cruelties, which they had 
so often exhibited. Here, however, idolatry ap- 
peared at least in the form of clemency, and the 
Puhonua presented a scene unique among the ruins 
of paganism, which we contemplated with unusual 
interest. Whether its establishment was originally 
projected by the priests, to attach to their interests 
all who might owe their lives to its institution; or 
by some mild and humane prince, anxious to dimin- 
ish the barbarous cruelties of idolatry, and soften 
the sanguinary character of savage warfare; or 
whether derived traditionally from the Israelitish 
cities of refuge, to which some of its features are 
strikingly analogous, we do not pretend to deter- 
mine. However, we could not but rejoice, that its 
abolition was so soon succeeded by the revelation of 
a refuge more secure; that the white flag ceased not 
to wave, till another banner was ready to be unfurled, 
on which was inscribed, "Look unto me, and be ye 
saved, all the ends of the earth. " — May Jesus be- 
come their strong hold, and their deliverer, and 

When vengeance hovers nigh, 

May his clear cross appear; 
To this bless'd refuge may they fly, 

And rest securely there. 

24th. Mr. Ellis being sufficiently recovered to 
allow us to proceed, we left Keokoa about 8 o'clock. 
After travelling half a mile, a singular appearance of 
the lava at a small distance from the shore, attracted 
our attention, and, on examination, presented a 
curious phenomenon. It consisted of a covered 
avenue of considerable extent, from 50 to 60 feet 
in height, formed by the lava's having flowed, in 
some recent eruption, over the edge of a perpendic- 
ular strata of very ancient lava, from 60 to 70 feet 
high. It appeared as if at first it had flowed over in 
one vast sheet, but had afterward fallen more slowly, 
and in detached semi-fluid masses. These, cooling 
as they fell, had hardened and formed a pile, which, 
*8 



90 SINGULAR VAULTED AVENUE. 

by continued augmentation from above, had ulti- 
mately reached the top, and united with the liquid 
lava there. It was evident that the lava still con- 
tinued to flow along the outside of the arch thus 
formed into the plain below, as we observed, in sev- 
eral places, the courses of unbroken streams from 
the top of the cliff, to the bed of smooth lava, that 
covered the beach for several miles. The space at 
the bottom, between the ancient rocks and more re- 
cently formed lava, was from six to twelve feet. On 
the one side, the lava rose perpendicular and smooth, 
showing distinctly the different variously coloured 
strata, of which it was composed, some of a bright 
scarlet, others brown and purple. The whole mass 
appeared to have undergone, since its formation, 
the effects of violent heat. The cracks and hollows 
horizontally between the different strata, or obliquely 
through them, were filled with lava, of a florid red 
colour, and much less porous than the general mass. 
It must have been brought to a state of most per- 
fect liquefaction, as it had filled up every crevice, 
that was more than half an inch wide. It appeared 
highly glazed, and in some places we could discover 
small round pebbles, from the size of a hazlenut 
to that of a hen's egg, of the same colour, and hav- 
ing the same polish, yet seeming to have remained 
solid, while the liquid lava, with which they were 
mixed, had been forced by subterranean fire into 
all the fissures of the ancient rock. 

The pile on the other side, formed by the dripping 
of the lava from the upper edge of the rocks, 
presented a striking contrast, but not a less interest* 
ing scene. It was generally of a dark purple, or 
jet black colour, glittering in the rays of the sun a 
as if glazed over with a beautiful vitreous varnish. 
On breaking any fragments off we found them very 
porous, and considerably lighter than the ancient 
lava, on the other side. Its varied forms, baffled 
description, and were equal to the conceptions of 
the most fertile imaginations* The archway thus 



SINGULAR VAULTED AVENTHB. 91 

formed, continued for about half a mile occasionally 
interrupted by an opening in the pile of lava caused 
by some projecting rock or elevation in the preci- 
pice above. A spectacle awfully sublime, and ter- 
rific must have been presented, when this burning 
stream rolled in one wide sheet, a fiery cascade, 
from the lofty steep down upon the smoking plain. 
With wdiat consternation and horror must it have 
filled the affrighted inhabitants of the surrounding 
villages, as they beheld its irresistible and devas- 
tating course, impressed as they were with the belief, 
that Pele, the goddess whom they had offended, 
had left her abode in the volcano, and was in person 
visiting them with thunder, lightning, earthquake, 
and liquid fire, the instruments of her power and 
vengeance. 

As we passed along this vaulted avenue, called, 
by the natives, Keanaee, we beheld a number of 
caverns and tunnels, from some of which streams 
of lava had flowed. The mouths of others being 
walled up with stones, we supposed were used as 
sepulchres. Mats spread upon the slabs of lava, 
calabashes, &c indicated some of them to be the 
habitations of men. Others, near the openings, were 
used as workshops, where women were weaving 
mats, or beating cloth. Some we also saw used as 
store-houses, or depositories of sandal-wood. In 
many places, the water filtered through the lava, and, 
around the spots where it had dropped on the ground, 
we observed a quantity of very fine white spear- 
shaped chrystals, of a sharp nitrous taste. Having 
walked a considerable distance along the covered 
way, and collected as many specimens of the lava, 
as we could conveniently carry, w 7 e returned to the 
sea-shore. Mr. Harwood feeling indisposed and 
unable to travel, and Mr. Ellis being quite weak, 
they proceeded in the canoe to Kalahiti, where they 
landed about 2 P. M. and waited the arrival of 
their companions. The rest of the party travelled 
along the shore by a path, which 'was often tedious 



92 PHENOMENA ALONG THE SHORE. 

and difficult. The lava frequently presented a 
mural front, from 60 to 100 feet in height, in many 
places hanging over their heads, apparently every 
moment ready to fall; while, beneath them, the long 
rolling billows of the Pacific chafed and foamed 
among the huge fragments, along which their road 
lay. In many places the lava had flowed in vast 
torrents over the top of the precipice into the sea. 
Broad flakes of it, or masses like stalactites, hung 
from the projecting edge in every direction. The 
attention was also attracted by a number of aper- 
tures in the face of the rocks, at different distances 
from their base, looking like so many glazed tun- 
nels, from which streams of lava had gushed out, 
and fallen into the ocean below, probably at the same 
time that it had rolled down in a horrid cataract from 
the rocks above. 

They passed through two villages containing be- 
tween 300 and 400 inhabitants, and reached Kalahiti 
about 4 in the afternoon. Here the people were col- 
lected for public worship, and Mr. Thurston preached 
to them from John vi, 38. They gave good atten- 
tion, and appeared interested in what they heard. 
The evening was spent in conversation on religious 
subjects with those who crowded our lodgings. 

We observed many of the people at this place 
with their hair either cut or shaved close on both 
sides of their heads; while it was left very long in 
the middle, from the forehead to the ftack of the 
head. On our inquiring the reason of this, they 
informed us, that, according to the custom of their 
country, they had cut their hair in the manner we 
perceived, on account of their chief, who had been 
sick, and who, they had heard, was dead. We did 
not see any that had slit their ears, although that, 
as well as knocking out their front teeth, and 
tatauing their tongues, was formerly a common 
practice on the death of a chief. 

25th. About 9 A. M. we took leave of the kind 
people at Kalahiti. Messrs. Thurston, Bishop and 



SINGULAR PILLAK3 OF LAVA. 93 

Goodrich continued their journey along the shore. 
Mr. Ellis went in the canoe, in company with Mr. 
Harwood. The coast, along which they sailed, 
looked literally iron-bound. It was formed of steep 
rocks of lava, whose surface wore the most rugged 
aspect imaginable. About 2 P. M. they passed 
Taureonanahoa, three large pillars of lava, about 20 
feet square, and 80 or 100 high, standing in the 
water, within a few yards of each other, and 
adjacent to the shore. Two of them were united at 
the top, but open at their base. The various col- 
oured strata of black, reddish, and brown lava 
being distinctly marked, looked like so many 
courses of masonry. About 5 in the afternoon, they 
landed at Kapua, a small and desolate looking vil- 
lage on the south-west point of Hawaii, and about 
twenty-two miles distant from Kalahiti. Here they 
had the canoe drawn up on the beach until their 
companions should arrive. 

After leaving Kalahiti, Messrs. Thurston, Good- 
rich and Bishop proceeded over a very rugged tract 
of lava, broken up in the wildest confusion, appar- 
ently by an earthquake, when it was in a semi-fluid 
state. About noon they passed a large crater. 
Its rim on the side towards the sea, was broken 
down, and the streams of lava issuing thence, marked 
the place, by which its contents were principally 
discharged. The lava was not so porous as that at 
Keanaee; but, like much in the immediate vicinity 
of the craters, was of a dark red, or brown ferrugi- 
nous colour, and but partially glazed over. For 
about a mile along the coast, they found it impossible 
to travel without making a considerable circuit 
inland. They therefore procured a canoe, and 
passed along the part of the coast, where the sea 
rolled up against the naked rocks, and about 1 P. M. 
they landed in a very high surf. To a spectator 
on the shore, their small canoe would have seemed 
every moment ready to be buried in the waves; yet, 
by the dexterity of the natives, they were safely 



94 SCARCITY OP FRESH WATER. 

landed, with no other inconvenience, than a little 
wetting from the spray of the surf. 

Mr. Thurston preached to the people at the place 
where they landed, after which they took some re* 
freshment, and kept their way over the same broken 
and rugged tract of lava till about 6 P. M., when 
they reached Honomalino. Here they were so much 
fatigued with the laborious travelling of the past day, 
that they were obliged to put up for the night. They 
procured a little sour poe, and only a small quantity of 
brackish water. Having conducted family worship 
with the people of the place, they laid themselves 
down to rest on their mats spread on the small frag- 
ments of lava, of w ? hich the floor of the house was 
composed. 

26th. Early in the morning, the party at Honoma- 
lino proceeded to Kapua, and, about 8 A. M. joined 
Messrs. Ellis and Harwood, who had slept there. 

At this place we hired a man to go about seven 
miles into the mountains, for fresh water; but he re- 
turned with only one calabash full, a very inadequate 
supply, as our whole company had suffered much 
from thirst, and the effects of the brackish water 
they had frequently drank, since leaving Honaunau. 

Unwilling to spend the Sabbath in the desolate 
and almost forsaken village of Kapua, w r e prepared 
for a long day's journey, as we knew of no village 
before us containing more than five, or six houses, 
for nearly thirty miles distance. 

Before we left Kapua, we were so favoured as to 
procure water enough to fill our canteens, and about 
10 A. M. set out again on our way. Messrs. Thurs- 
ton, Bishop and Goodrich walked on by the sea-side. 
About noon they reached Kaulanamauna, and short- 
ly after left the division of Kona and entered that of 
Kau. 

Kona is the most populous of the six great divi- 
sions of Hawaii, and being situated on the leeward 
side, would probably have been the most fertile and 
beautiful part of the island, had it not been over- 



MARKS OF GREAT CONVULSIONS. 95 

flowed by floods of lava. It is joined to Kohala, a 
little distance to the southward of Towaihae bay, 
and extends along the western shore between 70 and 
80 miles. The northern part, including Kairua, 
Kearake'kua and Honaunau, contains a dense popu- 
lation, and the sides of the mountain are cultivated 
to a considerable extent; but the south part presents 
a most inhospitable aspect. Its population is thin, 
consisting principally of fishermen, who cultivate but 
little land, and that at the distance of from five to 
seven miles from the shore. 

The division of Kau commences at Kaulanamau- 
na, runs along to the south point of the island, and 
stretches about 40 miles along the south-east shore. 
On entering it, the same gloomy and cheerless desert 
of rugged lava spreads itself in every direction, from 
the shore to the mountains. Here and there, at dis- 
tant intervals, they passed a lonely house, or a few 
wandering fishermen's huts, with a solitary shrub of 
thistle struggling for existence among the crevices 
in the blocks of scoria and lava. All besides was 
one vast desert, dreary, black, and wild. Often all 
traces of a path entirely disappeared. For miles to- 
gether, they clambered over huge pieces of vitreous 
scoria, or rugged piles of lava, which, like several 
of the tracts they had passed in Kona, had been tossed 
into its present confusion by some violent convulsion 
of the earth. 

From the state of the lava, covering that part of 
ths country, through which we have passed, we 
jshould be induced to think, that eruptions and earth- 
quakes had been, almost without exception, concom- 
itants of each other; and the shocks must have 
been exceedingly violent, to have torn the lava to 
pieces, and shook it up in such distorted forms, as 
we every where beheld. 

Slabs of lava from nine to twelve inches thick, 
and from four to twenty or thirty feet in diameter, 
were frequently piled up edgewise, or stood leaning 
against several others, piled up in a similar manner. 



96 MARKS OF GREAT CONVULSIONS. 

Some of them were six, ten, or twelve feet above 
the general surface, fixed in the lava below, which 
appeared to have flowed round their base, and filled 
up the interstices occasioned by the separation of the 
different pieces. One side of these rugged slabs 
generally presented a compact, smooth, glazed, and 
gently undulated surface; while the other appeared 
rugged and broken as if torn with violence from the 
viscid mass, to which it had tenaciously adhered. 
Probably these slabs were raised by the expansive 
force of heated air, or of steam, beneath the sheet of 
lava. 

After about eighteen miles of most difficult travel- 
ling, they reached Keavaiti, a small opening among 
the rocks, where, in case of emergency, a canoe 
might land in safety. Here they found Messrs. Ellis 
and Harwood, who, after leaving Kapua, had sailed 
along close to the shore till the wind becoming too 
strong for them to proceed, they availed themselves 
of the opening, which Keavaiti afforded, to run the 
canoe ashore, and wait till the wind should abate, 
though, in so doing, they got completely wet with 
the surf, and spoiled the few provisions they had on 
board. 

The wind was still too strong to allow the canoe 
to proceed on her voyage; and those, who had travel- 
led by land, felt too much fatigued to go on without 
some refreshment and rest. Desirous of spending 
the Sabbath with the people at Tairitii, which was 
still fourteen or sixteen miles distant, we determined 
to rest a few hours, and then prosecute our journey 
by moonlight. 

A number of conical hills from 150 to 200 feet 
high, rose immediately in our rear, much resembling 
sand-hills in their appearance. On examination, how- 
ever, we found them composed of volcanic ashes and 
scoria; but could not discover any mark of their 
ever having been craters. 

When those of our party, who had travelled by 
land, had recovered a little from their fatigue, we 
partook of such refreshment as remained, and drank 



WANT OF FRESH WATER. 97 

the little fresh water we had brought with us in the 
canoe. Being only about a quart, it was, between 
five persons, a very inadequate supply, in such a dry 
and thirsty land; yet we drank it with thankfulness, 
hoping to get some at Tairitii, early on the following 
morning. 

By the time we had finished our frugal meal, the 
shades of evening began to close around us. V ... 
called our little party together, and after committing 
ourselves, and those who travelled with us, to the 
watchful care of our merciful Father, we spread our 
mats on the small pieces of lava, and lay down to 
rest under the canopy of heaven. A pile of blocks 
of scoria and lava, part of which we had built up 
ourselves, screened our heads from the winds. The 
thermometer at sun-set stood at 73 Q ; yet, during the 
evening, the land-wind, from the snow-covered top 
of Mouna Roa, blew keenly down upon us. We 
slept tolerably well till midnight, when the wind 
from the shore being favourable, and the moon hav- 
ing risen, we resumed our journey. Messrs. Har- 
wood and Ellis went on in the canoe to Tairitii, 
which they reached just before day-break; but the surf 
rolling high, they were obliged to keep off the shore 
until day-light enabled them to steer between the 
rocks to the landing place. Some friendly natives 
came down to the beach, and pointed out the passage 
to the steersman, by whose kind aid they landed in 
safety about half-past five in the morning of the 27th. 
Their first inquiry was for water. Mauae, the Gov- 
ernor's man, soon procured a calabash full, fresh and 
cool, of which they drank most copious draughts, 
then filled their canteens, and preserved them for those 
who were travelling along the shore. 

About half-past eight, Mr. Thurston hastily en- 
tered the house* His first salutation was, "Have 
you any water?" A full canteen was handed him, 
with which he quenched his thirst, exclaiming, as he 
returned it, that he had never in his life before suf- 
fered so much for the want of water. When he 
9 



9S EVANGELICAL LABOURS. 

first discovered the houses, about two miles distant, 
he felt his thirst so great, that he left his companions, 
and hastened on, running and walking, till he reach- 
ed the place where those, who arrived in the canoe, 
were waiting. After leaving Keavaiti, Messrs. 
Thurston, Bishop and Goodrich, travelled over the 
mgged lava, till the moon becoming obscured by- 
dark, heavy clouds, they were obliged to halt under 
a high rock of lava, and wait the dawn of day; for 
they found it impossible to proceed in the dark, 
without being every moment in danger of stumbling 
over the sharp projections of the rocks, or falling into 
some of the deep and wide fissures, that intersect- 
ed the bed of lava in every direction. After wait- 
ing about an hour, they resumed their journey; and 
Messrs. Bishop and Goodrich reached Tairitii, about 
half an hour after Mr. Thurston's arrival. 

At 10 A. M. Mr. Thurston preached to the people 
of Tairitii, and the neighbouring village of Patini, 
all of whom are fishermen. They behaved with 
propriety, and appeared interested. We had sent out 
Makoa, our guide, soon after our arrival, to inform 
the people, that there would be a religious meeting, 
and invite their attendance. He had gone much 
farther than we expected he would; and, just as Mr. 
Thurston had finished his sermon, he returned, fol- 
lowed by a considerable company from an inland set- 
tlement, who, to use their own words, had come to 
hear about Jehovah and Jesus Christ. They seemed 
disappointed at finding the service over. As they 
•said they could not wait till the evening, they and 
the people of the village assembled in a large canoe- 
Jiouse, and Mr. Thurston preached again of salva- 
tion through Jesus Christ. They sat very quietly, 
and listened with apparent attention. After they had 
spent an hour or two in conversation with us, they 
returned, seemingly interested in what they had 
heard. In the afternoon, Mr. Thurston preached a 
third time. Between 70 and 80 were present. With 
most of those who have attended public worship 



SPOUTING OF WATER THROUGH THE LAVA. 99 

in this place, this day was probably the first time 
they ever heard of Jehovah the living God, or Jesus 
Christ the Saviour. We could not but desire and 
pray, that the Holy Spirit would make the word 
spoken in this distant and desolate part of the earth, 
the power of God to the salvation of many that 
heard it. 



CHAPTER V. 

Beautiful spouting of water through the lava. — 
Inland route. — Fertile appearance of the coun- 
try. — Description of the taro. — Account of 
a congregation of natives. — Vale of Waio- 
hinu. — Conversation with the natives. — The 
guide objects to visiting the volcano. — Account 
of the defeat and assassination of Keoua. 
— Pebbly beach at Ninole, and superstitions 
connected with it. — Hospitality of the natives. 
— Distant indications of the volcano. — Singular 
favourite of two Hawaiian females — Burning 
chasm at Ponahohoa. 

July 28th. During the whole of yesterday, a most 
beautiful spouting of the water attracted our atten- 
tion, which we found was produced in a manner sim- 
ilar to that we had witnessed at Kairua. The aper- 
ture in the lava was about two feet in diameter, and 
every few seconds a column of water was thrown up, 
with considerable noise, and a pleasing effect, to the 
height of thirty or forty feet. The lava at this place 
was very ancient, and much heavier than that, which 
we had seen at Kona. The vesicles in it were com- 
pletely filled with olivine. * 

The trade-winds, blowing along the shore very 
fresh and directly against us, obliged us to leave our 
eanoe at this place. Mauae and his companions, 
having drawn it up into an adjacent shed, took off 
the out-rigger, and left it, together with the mast, sails, 



100 A FERTILE SOIL- 

and paddles, in the care of the man at whose house 
we had lodged. As he was desirous to see the vol- 
cano, and, after an absence of several years, to re- 
visit Kaimu, in the division of Puna, the place of 
his birth, he prepared to accompany us by land. 

Hitherto we had travelled close to the seashore, 
in order to visit the most populous villages in the 
districts, through which we had passed. But here, 
receiving information that we should find more in- 
habitants a few miles inland, than nearer the sea, 
we thought it best to direct our course towards the 
mountains. 

Makoa, our guide, procured men to carry our 
baggage, and at 9 A. M. we left Tairitii. Our way 
lay over a bed of ancient lava, smooth, considerably 
decomposed, and generally covered with a thia 
layer of soil. 

We passed along the edge of a more recent stream of 
lava, rugged, black, and appaling in its aspect, compar- 
ed with the tract we were walking over, which here 
and there showed a green tuft of grass, a straggling 
shrub, or a creeping convolvulus. After travelling 
about a mile, we reached the foot of a steep preci- 
pice. A winding path led to its top, up which we 
pursued our way, occasionally resting beneath the 
shade of huge overhanging rocks. In half an hour, 
we reached its summit, which we supposed to be 
about 300 feet from the plain below. 

A beautiful country now appeared before us, and 
we seemed, all at once transported to some happier 
island, where the devastations attributed to Nahoaarii 
and Pele had never been known. The rough and 
desolate tract of lava, with all its distorted forms, 
was exchanged for the verdant plain, diversified 
with gently rising hills and sloping dales, ornament- 
ed with shrubs, and gay with blooming flowers. 
We saw, however, no stream of water during the 
whole of the day; but, from the luxuriance of the 
herbage in every direction, the rains must be fre- 
quent, or the dews heavy. 



THE MOUNTAIN TARO. 101 

About noon we reached Kalehu, a small village 
about four miles from Tairitii. The kind cottager 
brought us some fine watermelons, which afforded 
us a grateful repast, while we rested during the heat 
of the noonday sun. 

Between 60 and 70 persons collected around the 
house in which we were, and Mr. Ellis, who was so 
far recovered as to be able to preach, addressed 
them from Matt, i, 21. 

They seemed interested, and afterwards said, that 
they had heard good news. We remained about an 
hour, conversing on some of the first principles of 
the religion of Jesus Christ, and then resumed our 
journey over the same beautiful country, which was 
partially cultivated, and contained a numerous, 
though scattered population. The prospect was de- 
lightful. On one hand, the Pacific dashed its mighty 
waves against the rocky shore, and on the other the 
Jeua hevi [mountain ridge] of Kau, and snow-topped 
Mouna Roa, rose in the interiour, with lofty gran- 
deur. Our path led us through several fields of 
mountain taro, [a variety of the arum,'] a root, which 
appears to be extensively -cultivated in many parts 
of Hawaii. It was growing in a dry, sandy soil, 
into which our feet sank two or three inches, every 
step we took. The roots were of an oblong shape, 
generally from ten inches to afoot in length, and four 
or six inches in diameter. Seldom more than two or 
three leaves were attached to a root, and those were 
of a light green colour, frequently blotched and 
sickly in their appearance. The inside of the root 
is of a brown, or reddish colour, and much inferiour 
to that of the arum esculentam, or low land taro. 
It is, however, very palatable, and forms a prime 
article of food in those parts of the island, where 
there is a light soil, and but little water. 

Between three and four o'clock in the afternoon, 

we reached Kauru, a small village, environed with 

plantations, and pleasantly situated on the side of a 

wide valley, extending from the mountains to the 

9* 



102 DESCRIPTION OP A NATIVE CONGREGATION. 

south point of the island. As the men with our bag- 
gage had not come up, we waited for them about 
two hours, when Tuite, the head man of the village, 
arrived, and pressed us to spend the night at hi$ 
house. We accepted his invitation, and proposed 
to him to collect the people of the village together 
to hear about the true God. He consented, and, a 
little before sunset, about 150 assembled in front of 
his house. Mr. Thurston, after singing and prayer, 
preached to them for about half an hour, and they 
paid very great attention. 

Shortly after the service, a baked hog, with some 
potatoes and taro, was brought for our supper, of 
which we made a hearty repast. We afterward 
conducted family worship with the good people of 
the house, and then laid ourselves down to rest. 

29th. At the request of Makoa, Tuite furnished 
men to carry our baggage to the next district, and soon 
after daylight we left Kauru, and, taking an inland 
direction, travelled over a fertile plain, covered with 
a thin, though luxuriant soil. Sometimes the sur- 
face was strewed with small stones, but in general 
it was covered with brushwood. The population 
in this part, did not seem concentrated in towns 
and villages, as it had been along the sea shore; 
but scattered over the whole face of the country, 
which appeared divided into farms of varied extent, 
and upon these the houses generally stood singly, 
or in small clusters, seldom exceeding four or five 
in number. 

After walking six or seven miles, we entered the 
district of Papapohaku. When we had nearly 
passed through it, we sat down to rest for a few 
minutes, on a pile of stones by the way side. Be- 
tween 60 and 70 natives soon collected around us, 
presenting a motley group. Most of the children 
were naked, *or at best had only a narrow strip of 
tapa fastened round their loins. Several of the 
men, on seeing us pass along, had left their work in 
lhe4ields and gardens, and had come, covered with 



DESCRIPTION OF A NATIVE CONGREGATION. 103 

dust and perspiration, just as they were, and seated 
themselves in the midst, with their oos* Their 
only clothing was their maro, a narrow girdle worn 
round their loins, one end of which passes between 
the legs and fastens in front. The old men were 
most of them dressed in a kiheiA as were also some 
of the women; but most of the latter wore only a 
pau.% Their black hair was, in many instances, 
turned up all round the forehead, and painted white, 
with a kind of chalk, or clay, which is found in 
several parts of the island. Many also wore a small 
looking glass, set in a solid piece of wood, and sus- 
pended on the bosom by a handkerchief, or strip of 
native cloth, fastened round the neck, to which was 
sometimes added another article considered equally 
useful, and not less ornamental, viz. a small wooden, 
brass-tipped tobacco-pipe. The looking-glass and to- 
bacco-pipe were sometimes combined in one ornament. 
Most of these people had, probably, never seen so 
large a company of foreigners before; and their cu- 
riosity, as might be expected, was unusally excited. 
Their countenances, however, indicated no feelings 
of jealousy, as to the objects of our visit, but mani- 
fested a degree of pleasure greater than ordinary. 
After conversing with them some time on their ideas 
of the true God, and the objects of our tour, we pro- 
posed to them to listen to his word, and unite with 
us in worshipping him. 

They seated themselves on the grass, we sang a 
hymn, and Mr. Ellis preached from Ps. cxxviii, 1. 
At the conclusion of our religious services, we re- 
sumed our journey, several of the natives following 
us to the next village. 

Our path running in a northerly direction, seemed 
leading us towards a ridge of high mountains, but it 

* The oo is the principal implement of husbandry, which a Hawaiian farmer uses. 
Formerly it was a sharp pointed stick of hard wood. It is now usually pointed with 
iron. The best are made with broad socket chissels, into which they put a handle 
four or six feet long. 

t See p. 63. 

% A piece of native cloth, three or four yards long, and about four feet wide, 
worn around the loins. 



104 VALE OP WAIOHINU. 

suddenly turned to the east, and presented to our 
view a most enchanting valley, clothed with ver- 
dure, and ornamented with clumps of kukui and 
kou trees. On the south-east, it was open towards 
the sea, and on both sides adorned with gardens, 
and interspersed with cottages, even to the summits 
of the hills. A fine stream of fresh water, the first 
we had seen on the island, ran along the centre of 
the valley, while several smaller ones issued from 
the rocks, on the opposite side, and watered the 
plantations below. We drank a most grateful 
draught from the principal stream, and then con- 
tinued our way along its margin through Kiolaakaa, 
walking on towards the sea till we reached Waio- 
hinu, about 10 miles from the place where we slept 
last night. Here we found a very comfortable 
house, belonging to Pai, the head-man, who invited 
us in, and kindly entertained us. About noon a 
hospitable dinner was prepared, of which, with the 
additional luxury of fresh water, w T e made a good 
meal. At 2 o'clock in the afternoon, the people of 
the place were collected outside of the house, and 
when we had requested them to sit down, we con- 
ducted a religious exercise, similar to that held in 
the morning. Much conversation followed on the 
subject of religion. They said they had heard of 
Jeho, (Jehovah,) our God, but had never before 
heard of Jesus Christ; that until now they did not 
know there was a Sabbath-day, on which they ought 
not to work, but that hereafter they would recollect 
and observe it. They wished, they said, to become 
good men, and be saved by Jesus Christ. 

Between three and four o'clock we took leave of 
them, and pursued our journey towards the sea- 
shore. Our road, for a considerable distance, lay 
through the cultivated parts of this beautiful valley. 
The mountain taro, bordered by sugar-cane, and ban- 
anas, was planted in large fields on the sides of the 
hills, and seemed to thrive luxuriantly. On leaving 
the valley, we proceeded along by the foot of the 



CONVERSATION WITH NATIVES. 105 

mountains, in a line parallel with the sea, and about 
-a mile and a half from it. The country appeared 
more thickly inhabited, than that over which we 
had travelled in the morning. The villages along 
the sea-shore were near together, and some of them 
extensive. 

After travelling about an hour, we came to 
Kapauku, a pleasant village, belonging to Naihe. 
As we passed through it, we found tall rows of 
sugar-cane lining the path on either side, and bei 
neath their shade we sat down to rest. A crowd 
of natives soon gathered round us. After a little gen- 
eral conversation, we asked them who was their God. 
They said they had no god; formerly they had 
many, but now they had cast them all away. We 
asked whether they had done well in abolishing 
them. They replied, Yes, for the tabu occasioned 
much labour and inconvenience, and drained off a 
great deal of their property. We asked them, if it 
were a good thing to have no God, and to know of 
no being, to whom they ought to render religious 
homage? They said, perhaps it was, for they had 
nothing to provide for the great sacrifice, and were 
under no fear of punishment for breaking tabu, &c. 

We asked them if they should like to hear about 
the true God, and the only Saviour. They said they 
had heard of Jesus Christ, by a boy belonging to 
Naihe, who came from Oahu, about two months 
ago; but he had not told them much, and they 
should like to hear something more. Mr. Ellis 
then requested them to sit down, and preached to 
them on the way of salvation by Jesus Christ. 
When the service was ended, many involuntarily 
exclaimed, Nui roa maitai. E ake makou i kana- 
ka makou no Jesu 9 a i or a roa ia ia. (It is very 
good We wish to become the people of Jesus Christ, 
and to be saved everlastingly by him.) We recom- 
mended them to think on his love, and to love him 
in return, to obey him, to keep the Sabbath-day by 
abstaining from labour, and meeting together to 
talk about what they had heard, and to ask God in 



106 INSTANCE OF CRUELTY AND SUPERSTITION. 

prayer, to teach them all his righteous will. Bid* 
ding them farewell, we directed our course towards 
the shore, and, in about half an hour, came to Hon- 
uapo, an extensive and populous village, standing on 
a level bed of lava, which runs out a considerable 
distance into the sea. As we approached this place, 
the natives led us to a steep precipice overhanging 
the sea, and pointed out a rock in the water below, 
called Kaverohea. They seemed to regard both 
the place where we were, and the rock below, with 
strong feelings of superstition, at which we were 
not surprised, when they informed us, that formerly 
a jealous husband, who resided a short distance from 
the place, slew his wife, by breaking all her bones 
with a stone, and afterwards dragged her down to 
the place where we stood, and threw her into the 
sea. That she fell on the rock, which we saw, and 
immediately afterward, while he stood ruminating 
on what he had done, called out to him, in the most 
affectionate and lamentable strains, attesting her 
innocence of the crime for which she had been mur- 
dered. 

From that rock which is still called by her name, 
they said her voice was often heard calling to her 
husband, and there her form was sometimes seen. 
They also informed us, that her lamentations were 
considered by them as ominous of some great disas- 
ter, as of war, or famine, or the death of some 
great chief We told them it was probably in imag- 
ination only that she was seen, and that her sup- 
posed lamentations were but the noise of the surf, 
or the whistling of the wind. 

From the manner in which we were received, we 
should not think this village had been often visited 
by foreigners; for, on our descending from the high 
land to the lava, on which the town stands, the na- 
tives came running out in every direction to meet us, 
and soon gathered so thickly around, that we found it 
difficult to proceed. Boys and girls danced and hal- 
looed before us, and vast numbers walked by our side, 
or followed us, occasionally taking us by the hand, 



CUSTOM OF TATAtllNG. 107 

or catching hold of some part of our clothes. They 
seemed surprised at our addressing them in their own 
tongue, but were much more so, when Mauae, who 
preceded us with a large fan in his hand, told them 
we were teachers of religion; that we preached and 
prayed at every place where we had stopped, and 
should most likely do so there, before we went to 
sleep. 

We passed through the town to the residence of 
the head-man, situated on the farthest point towards 
the sea. He invited us to his house, procured us 
some water to wash our feet, and immediately sent 
to an adjacent pond for some fish for our supper. 
While that was preparing, the people assembled in 
crowds around the house, and. a little before sun-set, 
Mr. Thurston preached to them in the front yard. 
Upwards of 200 were present, and, during the whole 
of the service, sat quietly, and listened attentively. 

A considerable number of the people at this place 
had one of their lips tatau'd, after the manner of 
some of the New Zealand tribes. There was more 
tatauing here, than we had observed at any other 
place; but it was very rudely done, displaying much 
less taste and elegance, than the figures on the 
bodies of either the New Zealanders, Tahitians, or 
Marquesians, which are sometimes really beautiful. 

After the service, some of our number visited the 
ruins of a heiau, on a point of lava, near our lodgings. 
During the evening, we made some inquiries re- 
specting it, and found it had been dedicated to Taire, 
and was thrown down in the general destruction of 
idols in 1JS19. They seemed to think it was well 
that idolatry had been prohibited by the king; said 
its frequent requisitions kept them very poor, and 
occasioned them much labour. They were almost 
entirely ignorant of the religion of Jesus Christ. 
One man from this place had been at Honoruru, in 
Oahu, since the king had been favourably disposed 
towards Christianity. He attended the public wor- 
ship in the native language once while there, and 



10S MAKOA REFUSES TO VISIT THE VOLCANO, 

heard about Jesus Christ, the God of the foreigners; 
but had given a very imperfect account of him. 

The people seemed inclined to listen attentively to 
what was said about salvation through the Redeemer, 
and we endeavoured to unfold, in a concise and simple 
manner, a view of the leading doctrines and duties 
of our holy religion. Having been employed in 
this manner until a late hour, we asked them to 
unite with us in our evening worship, which we 
conducted in their language, and then lay down to 
rest. Many of the people in the house continued 
talking till almost daylight. 

30th. This morning we arose much refreshed; 
but Makoa not having arrived with our baggage, we 
did not leave Honuapo so early as we could have 
wished. Great numbers of the people crowded 
our house at an early hour, and while breakfast was 
preparing, they were addressed from Psalm xcvi, 4. 
When the service was ended, the people were anxious 
to know more about these things. Some time was 
therefore spent in conversation with them. We had 
seldom seen any who appeared more interested m 
the truths of the Gospel, than the people at Honuapo. 

About 8 A. M., Makoa arrived, but without our 
baggage. The men who were bringing it, he said, 
could not be persuaded to come on last night, but 
had set out this morning, and would soon overtake 
us. We now acquainted him with our intention to 
visit the volcano, and requested him to hasten the 
men with our baggage, as we should want more 
things there, than we could conveniently carry. He 
objected strongly to our going thither, as we should 
most likely be mischievous, and offend Pele, or Na- 
hoaarii, gods of the volcano, by plucking the ohelo 
(sacred berries,) digging up the sand, or throwing 
stones into the crater, and then they would either 
rise out of the crater in volumes of smoke, send up 
large stones to fall on us and kill us, or cause dark- 
ness and rain to overtake us, so that we should 
never find our way back. We told him we did not 



PREACHING ON THE LAVA. 109 

apprehend any danger from the gods, that we knew 
there were none, and should visit the volcano. If 
we were determined on going, he said we must go 
by ourselves; he would go with us as far as Kapa- 
pala, the last village at which we should stop, and 
about twenty miles on this side of it, and from thence 
would descend to the seashore, and wait till we 
overtook him. The Governor, he said, had told him 
not to go there, and, if he had not, he should not 
venture near it, for it was a fearful place. 

We waited till after nine o'clock, when the men 
not arriving with our baggage, we proceeded on our 
way, leaving Makoa to wait for them, and come 
after us as far as Kapapala, where we expected to 
spend the night. As we walked through the vil- 
lage, numbers of the people came out of their houses 
and followed us for a mile or two, when they gradu* 
ally fell behind. When they designed to leave us, 
they would run a little way a head, sit down on a 
rock, give us their parting aroha as we passed, and 
continue to follow us with their eyes, till we weie 
out of sight. After travelling sometime over a wide 
tract of lava, in some places almost as rugged as any 
we had yet seen, we reached Kokukano. Here we 
found an excellent spring of fresh water. While 
we were stopping to drink and rest ourselves, many 
natives gathered round us from the neighbourhood. 
We told them to accompany us to a cluster of 
houses a little further on, which they very cheerful- 
ly did; and there Mr. Ellis preached to them, and 
invited all who were athirst, and whosoever would, 
to come and take of the water of life freely. They 
sat very quietly on the lava till the concluding 
prayer was finished, when several simultaneously 
exclaimed, "He mea maitai ke ora, e makemake 
au" (A good thing is salvation; I desire it.) They 
then proposed several questions, which we answered, 
apparently to their satisfaction, and then kept on 
our way. We travelled over another rugged tract 
of lava about 200 rods wide. It had been most 
10 



110 NATIVE HOSPITALITY. 

violently torn to pieces, and thrown up in the wild- 
est confusion. In some places it was heaped forty 
or fifty feet high. The road across it was formed 
of large, smooth, round stones, placed in a line two 
or three feet apart. By stepping along on these 
stones, we passed over, though not without consid- 
erable fatigue. About half past 11, we reached 
Hilea, a pleasant village belonging to the Governor. 
We went into the house of the head man, and asked 
him to collect the people together, as we wished 
to speak to them about the true God. He sent out, 
and most of the people of the village then at home, 
about 200 in number, soon collected in his house, 
which was large, where Mr. Thurston preached to 
them. They appeared gratified with what they had 
heard, and pressed us very much to spend the day 
with them. We could not consent to this, as we 
had travelled but a short distance since leaving Ho- 
nuapo. The head man then asked us to stop till he 
could prepare us some refreshment, saying he had 
hogs, fish, taro, potatoes, and bananas in abundance. 
We told him we were not in need of any thing, and 
would go on. He said, probably the Governor 
would be angry with him, banish him, or perhaps 
take off his head, when he should hear he had not 
entertained his friends, as they passed through the 
place. We ate a few ripe plantains, which he 
placed before us, and then took our leave, assuring him 
that we would speak to the Governor on the sub- 
ject of taking off his head, &c. This seemed to sat- 
isfy him in some measure, and after accompanying 
us a short distance, he gave us his aroha, and return- 
ed. 

As we left Hilea, our guide pointed out a small hill, 
called Makanau, where Keoua, the last rival of Ta- 
mehameha, surrendered himself up to the warriors 
under Taiana, by whom Tamehameha had conquer- 
ed in two successive engagements. He was the 
younger brother of Kauikeoule, the eldest son and 
successor of Taraiopu. After the battle of Keei, in 



DEFEAT OF KEOUA. Ill 

which his brother was slain, he fled to Hiro, the 
large eastern division of the island. The warriors 
of Hiro, with those of Puna, and some parts ofKau, 
on the south-east, together with those of part of Ha- 
makua on the north-east, declared themselves in his 
favour, as the immediate descendant of Taraiopu. 
Among them he resided several years, undisturbed 
by Tamehameha, frequently making attacks on the 
northern and western parts of the island, in which, 
however, he was generally repulsed with loss. Not- 
withstanding the defeats he had experienced, he was 
still desirous to obtain the sovereignty of the whole 
island, to the throne of which he considered himself 
the legitimate heir; and, in the year 17S9, marched 
from Hiro, with all his forces, to attack Kau and 
Kona, on the western shores. 

He took the inland road, and, on his way Across 
the island, halted for the night in the vicinity of the 
volcano. An eruption took place that very night, 
and destroyed the warriors of two small villages, in 
all about 80 men. This was considered an ill omen. 
He however continued his march, and shortly after 
reached Tairitii. Here he was met by a body of Ta- 
mehameha's warriors, under Taiana. An engage- 
ment took place, in which he was defeated, and 
obliged to retreat towards Hiro. The victorious 
party pursued and overtook him at Puakokoki, in 
the division of Puna, where another battle was fought, 
in which his forces were totally routed, and almost all 
of them slain. He saved himself by flying to the 
mountains, attended by a few of his kahu, or faith- 
ful companions. Taiana and his warriors returned 
to Waiohinu to remain there till the place of his re- 
treat should be discovered. 

After sometime, Keoua, Kaoreioku, his younger 
brother, and the few friends that were with them, 
came to Makanau. From thence he dispatched 
a messenger to Taiana, requesting permission to pass 
to the sea-shore, in order that he might go and sur- 
render himself to Tamehameha, who was then at To- 



112 ASSASSINATION OF KEOUA. 

waihae. Taianaand Iherestof the warriors agreed 
to allow him to pass unmolested through their camp, 
and Keaveaheuru, the father of Naihe, present chief 
of Kaavaroa, and Kamahoe, father of Hoapiri, two 
near relatives of Keoua, though attached to Tame- 
hameha, went back to assure him of his safety, and 
of the friendly feelings of Tamehameha towards 
him He accompanied them to Tairitii, where they 
embarked in Taiana's canoes, and directed their 
course along the western shores to Towaihae. 

On his way, he stopped at several places, particu- 
larly Honamalino, Honaunau, Kaavaroa, Keauhdu, 
and Kairua. The people at each of the places, at 
Honaunau in particular, crowded around him, brought 
him presents of food, hogs, tapa, and fruits, and, by 
every means in their power, demonstrated their at- 
tachment to him. Many of them wept, some on ac- 
count of the joy they felt at seeing him again, others 
from a foreboding fear of the result of his surrender 
to Tamehameha. He stopped two nights at Paraoa, 
a small village, a few miles to the southward of To- 
waihae, where he received the greatest assurances of 
Tamehameha's kind intention; and, on the morning 
of the third day, proceeded to Towaihae. Tame- 
hameha, with his chiefs, was standing on the beach, 
as his canoe came in sight, and, with most of the 
chiefs, intended to protect him. But Keeaumoku 
had determined on his death; and fearing Tameha- 
meha might frustrate his purpose, if the canoe were 
allowed to land, he waded above his middle into the 
sea, and, regardless of the orders of Tamehameha, 
and the expostulations of the other chiefs, caught 
hold of the canoe as it approached the shore, and 
either with his pahoa, or a long knife, stabbed Keoua 
to the heart as he sat in the stern. He also murder- 
ed seven of his companions and friends, who came 
in the same canoe. In another canoe was Kaorei- 
oku, his younger brother, and the father of Pauahi, 
one of the wives of Rihoriho, present sovereign of 
the islands. Tamehameha gave strict orders to pro- 



INSTANCE OF SUPERSTITION. 113 

tect him, and his life was spared. Tamehameha 
and many of the chiefs, particularly Keaveaheuru 
and Kamahoe, are reported to have regretted his 
death. Keeaumoku however justified his horrid act, 
by saying, that if Keoua had been allowed to live, 
they should never have been secure. 

We had not travelled far, before we reached Ni- 
nole, a small village on the sea-shore, celebrated on 
account of a short pebbly beach, called Koroa, the 
stones of which were reported to possess very singu- 
lar properties, among others that of propagating their 
species. The natives told us it w ? as a wahi pana 
(place famous) for supplying the black and white ko- 
nane* stone; and also the stones for making small 
adzes and hatchets, before they were acquainted with 
the use of iron; but particularly for supplying the 
stones of which the gods were made, that presided 
over most of the games of Hawaii. Some powers 
of discrimination, they told us, were necessary to dis- 
cover the stones, which would answer to be deified. 
When selected, they were taken to the heiau, and 
there several ceremonies were performed over them. 

Afterwards, when dressed and taken to the place 
where the games were practised, if the party to 
whom they belonged were successful, their fame was 
established; but, if unsuccessful for several times to- 
gether, they were either broken to pieces, or thrown 
contemptuously away. When any were removed 
for the purpose of being transformed into gods, one 
of each sex was generally selected, and were always 
wrapped up very carefully together in a piece of 
cloth. After a certain time, a small stone would be 
found with them, which, when grown to the size of 
its parents, was taken to the heiau, and made after- 
wards to preside at the games. 

We were really surprised at the tenacity, with 
which this last opinion was adhered to, not only by 
the poor people of the place, but by several others, 

* A native game resembling drafts. 

10* 



114 HOSPITALITY OF THE NATIVES- 

with whom we have since conversed, and whom we 
should have supposed better informed. It required all 
the argument and ridicule, that we could employ, to 
make them believe it could not possibly be so. Koi oa 
was also a place of importance, in a time of war, as it 
furnished the best stones for the slingers. We ex- 
amined some of the stones. The black ones appear- 
ed to be pieces of trap, or compact lava. The white 
ones were branches of white coral common to all the 
islands pf the Pacific. 

The angles of both were worn away, and a consi- 
derable polish given, by the attrition occasioned by 
the continual rolling of the surf on the beach. 

After travelling about two miles, we came to Pu- 
naruu, where the people of that and the next village, 
Wailau, collected together in a large house, and were 
addressed by one of the company, on the nature and 
attributes of the true God. We generally preferred 
speaking to the people in the open air, as we then 
had more hearers, than when we addressed them in 
a house. But in the middle of the day, we usually 
found it too hot to stand so long in the sun. The 
services, which we held in the morning and evening, 
were always out of doors. 

We now left the road by the sea-side, and directed 
our course towards the mountains. Our path lay 
over a rich yellow looking soil of decomposed lava, 
or over a fine vegetable mould, in which we occa- 
sionally saw a few masses of lava partially decomposed. 

There was but little cultivation, though the ground 
appeared well adapted to the growth of any of the 
produce of the islands. After walking up a gentle 
ascent, about eight miles, we came to a solitary ham- 
let, called Makaaka, containing four or five houses, 
in which three or four families were residing. We 
entered one of them to take some refreshment and 
rest, after the fatigue of travelling in the heat of the 
day. The people of the house, though poor, were 
hospitable, and gave us cheerfully a few roots of taro 



DISTANT INDICATIONS OF THE VOLCANO. 115 

out of their own oven. They also furnished us 
with a fowl, with which, and some biscuit we had 
with us, we made a tolerable meal. After stopping 
about two hours, we offered to remunerate them for 
what we had received, but they refused to take any 
thing. We therefore made the children a present of 
a looking glass, and some strings of beads, and then 
resumed our journey over the same verdant country, 
frequently crossing small vallies and water courses, 
which, however, were all dry. The land, though 
very good, was but partially cultivated, till we came 
to Kaaraara, where we passed through large fields of 
taro and potatoes, with sugar-cane and plantains 
growing very luxuriantly. Maruae, the chief of the 
place, came down to the road-side, as we passed 
through, and asked us to stay for the night at his 
house; but as Kapapala was only four miles farther 
on, we thought we could reach it before dark, and 
therefore thanked him, and proposed to walk on. As 
our boys w r ere tired with their bundles, we asked 
him to allow a man to carry them to Kapapala. He 
immediately ordered one to go with us, and we 
passed on through a continued succession of planta- 
tions, all in a high state of cultivation. 

During the whole of the time we had been travel- 
ling on the high land, we had perceived a number of 
columns of smoke and vapour rising at a considerable 
distance, and also one large steady column, that seemed 
little affected by the wind, and this we were inform- 
ed arose from the great crater at Kirauea. The small- 
er columns were emitted at irregular intervals, with 
several seconds between each. On inquiry we learn- 
ed, that they arose from deep chasms in the earth, 
and were accompanied by hot and sulphureous va- 
pour. About 7 o'clock in the evening, we reached 
Kapapala, and directed our weary steps to the house 
of Tapuahi, the head-man. He kindly bade us wel- 
come, spread a mat in front of his house for us to 
sit down upon, and brought us a most agreeable bev- 
erage, a calabash full of good cool fresh water. 



116 SINGULAR FAVOURITE OF TWO FEMALES. 

The thermometer at sun-set stood at 70°, and we 
sat for some time talking with the people around us. 
The air from the mountains, however, soon began to 
be keen. We then went into the house, and, although 
we were in a tropical climate, in the month of July, 
we found a fire very comfortable. It was kindled 
in a hollow place in the centre of the earthen 
floor, surrounded by large square stones, and gave 
both light and heat. But as there was no chimney^ 
the smoke was sometimes rather troublesome. A 
fine pig was baked, and some taro prepared by our 
host for supper. At our particulav request, he was 
induced to partake of it, though contrary to the eti- 
quette of his country. 

When we had finished, we conducted family wor- 
ship with him and his household, and then retired to 
rest. We had travelled more than twenty miles, and 
two of our number had, since the morning, spoken 
four times to the people. 

Few of the Hawaiian females are without a pet. 
It is usually a dog. Here, however, we observed a 
species of favourite, that we had not seen before. It 
was a curly tailed hog, about a year and a half old, 
three or four feet long, and in tolerable order. He 
belonged to two sisters of our host, and joined the 
social circle around the evening hearth. The hog 
was lying by the side of them, when we arrived. 
During the whole of the evening, he closely followed 
every movement they made, and at supper put forth 
his nose, and received his portion at their hands. 
According to custom they washed their hands after 
their meal, and then passed the bowl to the hog. 
At the usual time for retiring to rest, these two 
ladies spread their mats and tapas on the ground in 
one corner, and, as is the usual practice, laid 
down to sleep with their clothes on. The hog 
waited very quietly till they had taken their places, 
when he marched over their tapas, and stretched 
himself along between them. The large tapa that 
covered them all, was then drawn up by one of 



BURNING CHASM OF PONAHOHOA- 117 

them to his ears, after which she reclined her head 
on a pillow by his side. Till this time we had 
maintained our gravity; but happening to look that 
way, and seeing the three heads all in a row, and the 
pig's black ears standing up in the middle, we invol- 
untarily burst into a laugh. This disconcerted them 
a little. The hog lifted up his nose and grunted; 
and the host inquired the reason of our laughter. 
We told him the occasion of it. He said his sisters 
had a great attachment for the hog, having fed it 
from the hand ever since it was a few days old, and 
did not like to have it sleep with the other hogs out 
in the cold; adding, that if it were to be put out, it 
would make such a noise all night at the door, that 
no one in the house would be able to sleep. 

31st. Soon after sun-rise the people of the place 
were collected around our house. Mr. Ellis re- 
quested them to sit down in front, and after singing a 
hymn, preached to them a short and plain discourse. 
Mr. Thurston concluded the service with prayer. 
The people were evidently interested, and made 
many inquiries. 

After breakfast, three of our number went to visit 
the places where we had seen the columns of smoke 
rising yesterday. After travelling about five miles, 
over a country fertile and considerably cultivated, 
we came to Ponahohoa. It was a bed of ancient 
lava, the surface of which was decomposed; and, in 
many places, shrubs and trees had grown to a con- 
siderable height. 

As we approached the places whence the smoke 
issued, we passed over a number of fissures and 
chasms, from two inches to six feet in width. The 
whole mass of rocks had evidently been rent by 
some violent convulsion of the earth, at no very dis- 
tant period; and w r hen we came in sight of the 
ascending columns of smoke and vapour, we beheld 
immediately before us a valley, or hollow, about 
half a mile across, formed by the sinking down of 
the whole surface of ancient lava, to a depth of 



118 BURNING CHASM OF PONAHOHOA. 

fifty feet below its original level. Its superficies was 
intersected by fissures in every direction; and along 
the centre of the hollow, two large chasms, of irreg- 
ular form and breadth, were seen stretching from 
the mountain towards the sea, in a south-and-by-west 
direction, and extending either way, as far as the 
eye could reach. The principal one was, in seme 
places, so narrow, that we could step over it; 
but in others it was ten or twelve feet across. It 
was from these wider portions, that the smoke and 
vapours arose. As we descended into this valley, 
the ground sounded hollow, and, in several places, 
the lava cracked under our feet. Towards 
the centre, it was so hot, that we could not stand 
more than a minute in the same place. As 
we drew near one of the apertures, that emitted 
smoke and vapour, our guide stopped, and endeav- 
oured to dissuade us from proceeding any further, 
assuring us he durst not venture nearer, for fear of 
Pele, the deity of the volcano. We told him there 
was no Pele, of which he need be afraid; but that 
if he did not wish to accompany us, he might go 
back to the bushes at the edge of the valley, and 
await our return. He immediately retraced his 
steps, and we proceeded on, passing as near some 
of the smoking fissures, as the heat and sulphureous 
vapour would admit. We looked down into several, 
but it was only in three or four that we could see 
any bottom. The depth of these appeared to be 
about fifty or sixty feet, and the bottoms were com- 
posed of loose fragments of rocks, and large stones, 
that had fallen in from the top or sides of the chasm. 
Most of them appeared to be red hot, and we thought 
we saw flames in one; but the smoke was generally 
so dense, and the heat so great, that we could not 
look long, nor see very distinctly the bottom of any 
of them. Our legs, hands, and faces, were nearly 
scorched with the heat. Into one of the small fis- 
sure we put our thermometer, which had stood at 
34°; it instantly rose to 118°, and probably would 



BURNING CHASM OF PONAHOHOA. 11$ 

have risen much higher, could we have held it long- 
er there. 

After walking along the middle of the hollow for 
nearly a mile, we came to a place, where the chasm 
was about three feet across, at its upper edge, though 
apparently much wider below, and about forty feet 
in length; and from which a considerable quantity of 
lava had been recently vomited. The lava had been 
thrown, in detached pieces, to a considerable distance 
in every direction, and, from both sides of the open- 
ing, had flowed down in a number of small streams. 
The appearance of the tufts of long grass, through 
which it had run; the scorched leaves still remain- 
ing on one side of a tree, while the other side was 
reduced to charcoal; and the strings of lava hanging 
from some of the branches, like stalactites; together 
with the fresh appearance of the shrubs, partially 
overflowed, and broken down, convinced us the lava 
had been thrown out only a few days before. It 
was of a different kind from the ancient bed, of 
which the whole valley was composed, being 
of a jet black colour, and bright variegated lus- 
tre, brittle and porous; while the ancient lava was 
of a grey or reddish colour, compact, and broken 
with difficulty. We found the heat to vary consid- 
erably in different parts of the surface; and at one 
of the places, where a quantity of lava had been 
thrown out, and from which a volume of smoke 
had continually issued, we could stand several 
minutes together without inconvenience We, at 
first, attributed this to the subterraneous fire having 
become extinct beneath; but the greater thickness of 
the crust of ancient lava at that place, afterwards 
appeared to us the most probably cause, as the vol- 
umes of smoke and vapour, which constantly 
ascended, indicated the vigorous action of fire below. 
Mr. Ellis took a drawing of this place, and when we 
had collected as many specimens of the lava as we 
could conveniently carry back to our lodgings, we 



120 BURNING CHASM OF PONAHOHOA. 

returned to our guide, whom we found waiting at 
the spot where we first entered the hollow. 

As he was a resident in Kapapala, and owned a 
small garden near, we endeavoured to learn from 
him something of the history of the phenomenon 
before us. He told us, that the two large chasms 
were formed about eleven moons ago, that nothing 
else had been visible, till nearly two moons back, 
when a slight earthquake was experienced at Kap- 
apala, and the next time he came by, the ground had 
fallen in, forming the hollow that we saw, which also 
appeared full of fissures. About three weeks ago, 
as he was going to his plantations, he saw a small 
flame issuing from the apertures, and a quantity of 
smoking lava all round; the branches of the trees 
that stood near were also broken and burnt, and sev- 
eral of them still smoking. 

Having gratified our curiosity, we prepared to 
leave this infant volcano; for such to us it appeared. 
Although the surface, at least, of the whole country 
around, had a volcanic origin, it seems to have re- 
mained undisturbed a number of years, perhaps ages. 
The lava is decomposed to a considerable depth, and 
is mingled with prolific soil, fertile in vegetation, 
and profitable to its proprietors; and we felt a sort 
of melancholy interest in witnessing the first exhi- 
bitions of returning action, after so long a repose in 
this mighty agent, whose irresistible energies will 
probably, at no very remote period, spread desola- 
tion over a district now smiling in verdure, repaying 
the toils, and gladdening the heart of the industrious 
cultivator. 

Ponahohoa, the place we had visited, is situated 
in the district of Kapapala, in the north-east part of 
the division of Kau, and is, as near as we could jjudge, 
from ten to twelve miles from the sea-shore, and 
about twenty miles from the great volcano at the 
foot of Mouna Roa. 

The road, by which we returned, lay through a 
number of fields of mountain taro, which appears to 



LEAVE KAPAPALA FOR THE VOLCANO. 121 

be cultivated here more extensively than the sweet- 
potatoe. We also passed several hills, whose broad 
base and irregular tops showed them originally to 
have been craters. They must be very ancient, as 
they were covered with shrubs and trees. From 
them must have come the then molten, but now in- 
durated flood, over which we were travelling. Several 
small columns of smoke were seen rising near them, 
from recently made fissures. About 2 P. M. we 
reached our lodgings, and dismissed the man, who had 
showed us the way, with a remuneration for his 
trouble. 

Mr. Harwood, who had arrived during our ab- 
sence, informed us, that on reaching Kaaraara, last 
night, he took up his lodgings with Maruae, the 
chief of the place, by whom he had been hospita- 
bly entertained. Mauae, and his two companions, 
who had also slept at Kaaraara, arrived with him; 
but nothing had been heard of Makoa, or our bag- 
gage, and we began to suspect he would not follow 
us, even so far as he had promised. 



CHAPTER VI. 

Leave Kapapala for the volcano. — Lodge in a cav- 
ern. — Reflection from the volcano by night. — 
Volcanic sand. — Superstition of the natives 
with respect to the ohelo. — Description of the 
great crater of Kirauea, and traditions and 
superstitions connected with it. — The "little 
Kirauea." — Ancient heiau on the summit of a 
precipice. — Mouna Boa. — Probable structure of 
the island. 

Between three and four o'clock in the afternoon, a 
party of travellers, consisting of four men and one 
woman, entered the house where we were, and sat 
down to rest. We soon learned, that they belong- 



122 LEAVE KAPAPALA FOR THE VOACANO. 

ed to Kearakomo, in Puna, whither they were going 
by a road, that also led to the great volcano; and 
having before experienced the inconvenience of 
travelling without a guide over a country, of which 
we were entirely ignorant, it appeared desirable, 
that some of us, at least, should go with them. We 
expressed our intention to accompany them. They 
were pleased, and told us they would wait till we 
were ready. No tidings had yet been received of 
Makoa, or our baggage; and our biscuit being nearly 
expended, and we being without even a change of lin- 
en, we did not think it expedient, that all of us should 
leave this place before our baggage arrived; espe- 
cially as we knew it would be some days, before we 
should reach any of the villages on the shores of 
Puna. Messrs. Bishop and Goodrich, therefore, 
thought it best to wait at least another day, while 
the rest of us should proceed with the travellers. 

Having made this arrangement, those, who were 
to proceed, immediately packed up their provisions, 
which were but a scanty supply, and filled their 
canteens with water. The natives, also, filled their 
calabashes; and about 5 P. M. the rest of the com- 
pany left Kapapala. They proceeded to a place, at a 
little distance, called Kapuahi, where they stopped 
at the entrance of a large cave, arched over by a 
thick crust of ancient lava. Here two or three fam- 
ilies, consisting of men, women and children, were 
residing. Its interiour was rather dark, as the en- 
trance was the only aperture that afforded any light; 
yet the inhabitants of this dreary abode seemed 
cheerful and contented, and perhaps felt themselves 
favoured by Pele, in having a permanent abode fur- 
nished free of labour or expense. The women 
were employed in making mats, and beating tapa; 
the children were playing among the fragments of 
lava on the outside; and the men were preparing an 
oven to bake some taro. We tried to purchase a 
few fowls of them, but they had none to dispose of. 
They gave us, however, two or three roots of taro, 



LODGE IX A CAVERN. 123 

and a draught of excellent spring water. Bidding 
them farewell, we pursued our way over a country 
most beautiful, and gradually sloping towards the 
right, meeting the ocean at a distance of from ten 
to fifteen miles, and rising more abruptly on the 
left, where it was crowned with the woods, which 
extend, like a vast belt, round the base of the great- 
er part of Mouna Roa. After travelling between 
three and four miles, we reached Keapuana, a large 
cave frequently used as a lodging place by weary 
or benighted travellers. The sun was nearly down, 
and the guides proposed to halt for the night in the 
cavern, rather than proceed any farther, and sleep in 
the open air. The proposal was agreed to, and when 
we had gathered a quantity of fern leaves and grass 
for our bed, and collected some fuel for the evening 
fire, we descended about fourteen feet to the mouth 
of the cavern, which was probably formed in the 
same manner, as those we formerly visited in the 
vicinity of Kairua. The entrance, which was eight 
feet wide and five high, was formerly an arch of 
ancient lava. The interior of the cavern was about 
fifty feet square, and the arch, that covered it, was 
ten feet high. There was an aperture at the north- 
ern end, about three feet in diameter, occasioned by 
the falling in of the lava, which admitted a current 
of keen mountain air, through the whole of the 
night. While they were cleaning out the small 
stones between some of the blocks of lava, that lay 
scattered around, a large fire was kindled near the 
entrance, which, throwing its glimmering light on 
the dark volcanic sides of the cavern, and illurnin 
ating one side of the huge masses of lava, exhibited 
to our view the strange features of our apartment, 
which resembled, in no small degree, scenes describ- 
ed in tales of romance. While the natives were 
sitting round the fire, Messrs. Thurston and Ellis 
ascended to the upper region, and walked to a rising 
ground, at a small distance from the mouth of the 
cavern, to see if they could discern the light of the 



124 REFLECTED LIGHT FROM THE VOLCANO. 

volcano. The wind blew fresh from the mountains, 
the noise of the rolling surf, to which they had 
been accustomed on the shore, was not heard, and 
the stillness of the night was only disturbed by 
the chirping of the insects in the grass. The sky 
was clear, and though the stars were not more nu- 
merous than ordinary, those which spangled the 
heavens were exceedingly bright. The galaxy, in 
particular, appeared unusually luminous. On look- 
ing towards the north-east, they saw a broad column 
of light rising to a considerable distance. Immedi- 
ately above it were some bright clouds, or thin va- 
pours, beautifully tinged with red on the underside. 
They had no doubt that the column of light arose 
from the large crater, and that its fires illuminated 
the surrounding atmosphere. The fleecy clouds 
generally passed over it in a south-east direction. 
As they approached the column of light, the side 
towards the place where the observers stood became 
generally bright, afterwards the under edge only 
reflected the volcanic fire, and in a little time each 
cloud passed entirely away, and was succeeded by 
another. After viewing with admiration the beauti- 
ful sight, for about half an hour, they joined their 
companions below; and, having spread their bed of 
fern and grass on the rough floor* of the cavern, min- 
gled with the cheerful circle sitting round the fire. 
They then sung a hymn in the native language, and 
laid down to rest, having committed themselves and 
their fellow travellers to the kind keeping of Him, 
from whose wakeful eyes and watchful care, no dark 
cavern can exclude. 

tftugust 1. Refreshed by a comfortable night's 
sleep, we arose before daylight, and, after stirring up 
the embers of our fire, rendered our morning tribute 
of praise to our Almighty Preserver. As the day 
began to dawn, the whole company tied on their san- 
dals, ascended from their subterraneous dormitory, 
and pursued their journey, directing their course 



VOLCANIC SAND. 125 

towards the smoke, which bore E, N. E. from the 
cavern. 

The path, for several miles, lay through a most 
fertile tract of country covered with bushes, or tall 
grass and fern, from three to five feet high, and so 
heavily laden with dew, that, before we had passed 
it, we were as completely wet, as if we had been 
drawn through a river. The morning air was cool, 
the singing of birds enlivened the woods, and we 
travelled along in Indian file, nearly four miles an 
hour, although most of the natives carried heavy 
burdens, which were tied on their backs with small 
bands over their shoulders, in the same manner that a 
soldier fastens on his knapsack. The rest having a 
small leather bag, containing a Bible, inkstand, note 
books, compass, &c. suspended from one shoulder, a 
canteen of water from the other, and sometimes a 
light portfolio, or papers with specimens of plants, 
besides, appeared, in this respect at least somewhat 
eji militaire. After travelling a short distance over 
the open country, we came to a small wood, into 
which we had not penetrated far, before all traces of 
a path entirelydisappeared. We kept on some time, 
but were soon brought to a stand by a deep chasm, 
over which we saw no means of passing. Here the 
natives ran about in every direction searching for 
marks of footsteps, just a£ a dog runs to and fro, when 
he has lost the track of his master. After searching 
about half an hour, they discovered a track, which led 
considerably to the southward, in order to avoid 
the chasm in the lava. Near the place where we 
crossed over, was a cave of considerable extent. In 
several places drops of water, beautifully clear, con- 
stantly filtered through the vaulted arch, and fell into 
calabashes placed underneath to receive it. Unfor- 
tunately for us, these were all nearly empty. Pro- 
bably some traveller had been there but a little time 
previous. 

Leaving the wood, we entered a waste of dry 
sand about four miles across. The travelling; over 
11* ° 



126 VOLCANIC SAND. 

it was extremely fatiguing, as we sank to our ancles 
at every step. The sand was of a dark olive colour, 
fine and sparkling, adhered readily to the magnet, 
and being raised up in every direction, presented a 
surface resembling, (colour excepted,) that of drifted 
snow. It was undoubtedly volcanic, but whether 
thrown put of any of the adjacent craters in its pres- 
ent form,or made up of small particles of decomposed 
lava, and drifted by the constant trade winds from the 
vast tract of lava to the eastward, we could not deter- 
mine. 

When we had nearly passed through it, we sat 
down on a heap of lava to rest and refresh ourselves, 
having taken nothing since the preceding noon. 
About 10 o'clock, Messrs. Bishop and Goodrich 
eame up. They had heard, by some travellers, 
that two or three days would elapse before Makoa 
would overtake them, and deeming it inexpedient 
to wait so long, had procured a guide, and early this 
morning set out from Kapapala to follow the rest of 
the party. Having refreshed ourselves, we resumed 
our journey, taking a northerly direction towards 
the columns of smoke, which we could now dis- 
tinctly perceive. Our way lay over a wide waste 
of ancient lava, of a black colour, compact and 
heavy, with a shining, vitreous surface, frequently 
thrown up by the expansive force of vapour or heated 
air, into conical mounds, from six to twelve feet 
high, which were rent in a number of places from the 
apex to the base. The hollows, between the mounds 
and long ridges, were filled with volcanic sand, or 
ftne particles of decomposed lava. It presented 
before us a sort of island sea, bounded by mountains 
in the distance. Once it had certainly been in a 
fluid state, but appeared to have become suddenly 
petrified, or turned into a glassy stone, while its 
agitated billows were rolling to and fro. Not only 
were the large swells and hollows distinctly marked, 
but in many places the surface of these billows was 
covered by a smaller ripple, like that observed on 
the surface of the sea, at the first springing up of 



MARKS OP A SUBTERRANEAN CHANNEL. 127 

a breeze, or the passing currents of air, which pro- 
duce what the sailors call a "cat's paw." 

The sun had risen now in his strength, and his 
bright rays reflected from the sparkling sand, and 
undulated surface of the vitreous lava, dazzled our 
eyes, and caused considerable pain; particularly as the 
trade wind blew fresh in our faces, and continually 
drove particles of sand into our eyes. This part of 
our journey was unusually laborious, not only from 
the heat of the sun, and the reflection from the lava, 
but also from the unevenness of its surface, which 
obliged us constantly to tread on an inclined plain, 
in some places as smooth and almost as slippery as 
glass, where the greatest caution was necessary to 
avoid a fall. Frequently we chose to walk along on 
the ridge of a billow of lava, though considerably 
circuitous, rather than pass up and down its polished 
sides. Taking the trough or hollow between the 
waves, was found safer, but much more fatiging, as 
we sank, every step, deep into the sand. Be- 
tween eleven and twelve o'clock, we passed a num- 
ber of conical hills on our right, which the natives 
informed us were craters. A quantity of sand was 
collected round their base, but whether thrown out by 
them, or drifted thither by the wind, they could not 
inform us. In their vicinity we also passed several 
deep chasms, from which, in a number of places, 
small columns of vapour arose at frequent intervals. 
They appeared to proceed from Kirauea, the great 
volcano, and extended towards the sea, in a S. E. 
direction. Probably they are connected with Pona- 
hohoa, and may mark the course of a vast subterra- 
neous channel leading from the volcano to the shore. 
The surface of the lava on Ijoth sides was considera- 
bly heated, and the vapour^ had a strong sulphur- 
eous smell. 

We continued our way beneath the scorching 
rays of a vertical sun, till about noon, when we 
reached a solitary tree growing in a bed of sand, 
and spreading its roots among the crevices of the 



l£$ SUPERSTITIONS OF THE NATIVES. 

lava. We thtew ourselves down, stretched out our 
weary limbs beneath its grateful shade, and drank 
the little water left in our canteens. 

In every direction around us, we observed a 
number of pieces of spumous lava, of an olive colour, 
extremely cellular, and as light as sponge. They 
appeared to have been drifted by the wind into the 
hollows which they occupied. The high bluff 
rocks on the north-west side of the volcano, were 
very distinctly seen; the smoke and vapours driven 
past us, and the scent of the fumes of sulphur, which, 
as we approached from the leeward, we had per- 
ceived ever since the wind sprung up, was now- 
very strong, and indicated our approach to Kirauea. 

Impatient to view it, we arose, after resting about 
half an hour, and pursued our journey. 

By the way side, we saw a number of low bushes, 
bearing beautiful red and yellow berries in clusters, 
each berry being about the size and shape of a large 
currant. The bushes, on which they grew, were 
generally low, seldom reaching two feet in height; 
the branches small and clear; leaves alternate, obtuse, 
with a point, and serrated; the flower was monope- 
talous, and, on being examined, determined the plant 
to belong to the class decandria, and order mono- 
gynia. The native name of the plant is ohelo. 
The berries looked very tempting to persons expe- 
riencing both hunger and thirst, and we eagerly 
plucked and ate all that came in our way. They are 
very juicy, but rather insipid to the taste. Soon as 
the natives perceived us eating them, they called out 
aloud, aad begged us to desist, saying we were now 
within the precincts of Pele's dominions, to whom 
they belonged, and by whom they were rahuiia, 
(prohibited,) until some had been offered to her, and 
permission to eat them asked. We told them we 
were sorry they should feel uneasy on account of 
our conduct; that we acknowledged Jehovah' only 
as proprietor of the fruits of the earth, and felt 
thankful to Him for them, especially in our present 



GREAT CRATER OF KIRAITEA. 129 

circumstances. Some of them then said, "We are 
afraid. We shall be overtaken with some calamity 
before we leave this place. " We advised them to 
dismiss their fears, and eat with us, as we knew 
they must be thirsty and faint. They shook their 
heads, and perceiving us determined to transgress., 
walked on in silence. 

We travelled on, clearing every ohelo bush, that 
grew near the path, till about 2 P. M., when the 
CRATER of KIRAUEA all at once burst upon 
our view. We expected to have seen a mountain, 
with a broad base, and rough indented sides, com- 
posed of loose slags, or streams of lava, and whose 
summit would have presented a rugged wall of 
scoria, forming the rim of a mighty chaldron. But 
instead of this, we found ourselves on the edge of a 
steep precipice, with a vast plain before us, fifteen 
or sixteen miles in circumference, and sunk from 
200 to 400 feet below its original level. The sur- 
face of the plain below was uneven, and strewed 
over with large stones, and volcanic rocks; and in 
the centre of it was the great crater, a mile or a mile 
and a half distant from the precipice, on which we 
were standing. 

Our guides led us round towards the north end 
of the ridge, in order to find a place by which 
we might descend to the plain below. As we 
passed along, we observed the natives, who had 
hitherto refused to touch any of the ohelos, now 
gather several bunches, and, after offering a part to 
Pele, eat them very freely. They did not use 
much ceremony in their acknowledgment, but, 
when they had plucked a branch containing several 
clusters of berries, they made a stand, with their 
faces turned toward the place, where the greatest 
quantities of smoke and vapour issued, and break- 
ing the branch they held in their hand in two pieces, 
they threw one part down the precipice, saying, at 
the same time, "E Pele, eia ka ohelo au; e tan- 
maha aka wau ia oe, e at hoi au tetahi;" (Pele. 



130 GREAT CRATER OF KIRAUEA, 

here are your ohelos, I offer some to you, some 1 
also eat.) Several of them told us, as they turned 
round from the crater, that, after such acknowledg- 
ments, they might eat the fruits with security. We 
told them we were sorry to see them offering to an 
imaginary deity the bounties of our common Parent, 
but hoped they would soon know better, and ac- 
knowledge Jehovah alone in all the benefits they 
received from his hand. 

We walked on to the north end of the ridge, 
where, the precipice being less steep, a descent to 
the plain below seemed practicable. It required, 
however, the greatest caution, as the stones and 
fragments of rock frequently gave way under our 
feet, and rolled down from above; and with all our 
care we did not reach the bottom without several 
falls and slight bruises. The steep, which we had 
descended, was formed of volcanic materials, appar- 
ently a light red, and grey kind of lava, vesicular, 
and lying in horizontal strata, varying in thickness 
from one to forty feet. In a small number of places, 
the different strata of lava were, also, rent in per- 
pendicular or oblique directions, from the top to the 
bottom, either by earthquakes, or other violent con- 
vulsions of the earth, connected with the action of 
the adjacent volcano. After walking some distance 
over the sunken plain, which, in several places, 
sounded hollow under our feet, we came suddenly 
to the edge of the great crater, where a spectacle, 
sublime, and appalling, presented itself before us. 

Astonishment and awe for some moments de- 
prived us of speech, and, like statutes, we stood fixed 
to the spot, with our eyes rivetted on the abyss be- 
low. 

Immediately before us yawned an immense gulph, 
in the form of a crescent, upwards of two miles in 
length, about a mile across, and apparently eight 
hundred feet deep. The bottom was filled with 
lava, and the south-west and northern parts of it 
were one vast flood of liquid fire, in a state of 



GREAT CRATER OF KIRAUEA, 131 

terrific ebulition, rolling to and fro its "fiery surge," 
and flaming billows. Fifty one craters, of varied 
form and size, rose, like so many conical islands, 
from the surface of the burning lake. Twenty-two 
constantly emitted columns of grey smoke, or pyr- 
amids of brilliant flame, and many of them, at 
the same time, vomited, from their ignited mouths, 
streams of florid lava, which rolled, in blazing tor- 
rents, down their black, indented sides, into the 
boiling mass below. 

The sides of the gulph before us, were perpendic- 
ular, for about 400 feet; when there was a wide, 
horizontal ledge of solid black lava, of irregular 
breadth, but extending completely round. Beneath 
this black ledge, the sides sloped towards the 
centre, which was, as nearly as we could judge, 
300 or 400 feet lower. It was evident, that the 
crater had been recently filled with liquid lava up 
to this black ledge, and had, by some subterranean 
canal, emptied itself into the sea, or inundated the 
low land on the shore. The grey, and, in some 
places, apparently calcined, sides of the great crater 
before us; the fissures, which intersected the surface 
of the plain, on which we were standing; the long 
banks of sulphur, on the opposite side; the numer- 
ous columns of vapour and smoke, that rose at the 
north and south end of the plain, together with the 
ridge of steep rocks, by which it was surrounded, 
rising probably, in some places, four hundred feet in 
perpendicular height, presented an immense vol- 
canic panorama, the effect of which was greatly 
augmented by the constant roaring of the vast fur- 
naces below. 

After our first feelings of astonishment had sub- 
sided, we continued for about half an hour, contem- 
plating a scene, which we felt it impossible to de- 
scribe, filled with wonder and admiration at the 
almost overwhelming manifestation of the power of 
that dread Being, who created the world, and who 
has declared that by fire he will one day destroy it. 



132 GREAT CRATER OP KIRAUEA. 

We then walked along the western side of the 
crater, till we reached the north end, where we left 
the few provisions, and little baggage, that we had, 
and went in search of water, which, we had 
been informed, was to be found in the neighbour- 
hood. About half a mile distant, in a northerly- 
direction, we found two or three small pools of per- 
fectly sweet, fresh water, a luxury, which, notwith- 
standing the reports of the natives, we did not expect 
to meet, in these regions of fire. It proved a most 
grateful refreshment to us, after travelling upwards 
of twenty miles over a barren thirsty desert. 

These pools appeared great natural curosities. 
The surface of the ground in the vicinity was per- 
ceptibly warm, and rent by several deep, irregular 
chasms, from which steam and thick vapours con- 
tinually arose. In some places, these chasms were 
two feet wide. From thence a dense volume of 
steam ascended, which was immediately condensed 
into small drops of water, by the cool mountain air, 
and driven, like drizzling rain, into hollows in the 
lava, at the leeward side of the chasms. The pools, 
which were six or eight feet from the chasms, were 
surrounded and covered by flags, rushes, and tall 
grass. Nourished by the moisture of the vapours, 
these plants flourished luxuriantly, and, in their 
turn, sheltered the pools from the heat of the sun, 
and prevented evaporation. We expected to find 
the water warm, but in this respect, we were, also, 
agreeably disappointed. 

When we had quenched our thirst with water 
thus distilled by nature, we directed the natives 
to build a hut for us to pass the night in, in such a 
situation as to command a view of the burning lava; 
and while they were thus employed, we prepared 
to examine the many interesting objects around us. 
Mr. Bishop returned with a canteen of water to 
meet Mr. Harwood, who had not yet come up. 
Mr. Thurston visited the eastern side of the great 
crater; and Messrs Ellis and Goodrich went to ex- 



BANKS OF SULPHUR. 133 

amine some extensive beds of sulphur, at the north- 
east end. After walking about three quarters of a 
mile, over a tract of decomposed lava, covered with 
ohelo bushes, they came to a bank about 150 yards 
long, and, in some places, upwards of thirty feet 
high, formed of volcanic sulphur, with a small pro- 
portion of red clay. The ground was hot, its sur- 
face rent by fissures; and they were sometimes 
completely enveloped in the thick vapours, that con- 
tinually ascended. A number of apertures were 
visible, along the whole extent of the bank of sul- 
phur; smoke and vapours arose from these fissures; 
and the heat around them was more intense, than in 
any other part. They climbed about half way up 
the bank, and endeavored to detach some parts of 
the crust, but soon found it too hot to be handled. 
However, by means of their walking sticks, they 
broke off some curious specimens. Those procured 
near the surface were crystallized in beautiful cir- 
cular prisms, of a light yellow colour, while those 
found three or four inches deep in the bank, were of 
an orange yellow, generally id single or double 
tetrahedral pyramids, and full an inch in length. 
A singular hissing and cracking noise was heard 
among the crystals, whenever the outside crust of 
the sulphur vvas broken, and the atmospheric air 
admitted. The same noise vvas produced among 
the fragments "broken off, until they were quite 
cold. The adjacent stones, and pieces of clay, were 
frequently incrusted, either with sulphate of ammo- 
nia, or volcanic sal ammoniac. Considerable quan- 
tities were, also, found in the crevices of some of 
the neighbouring rocks, which was much more pun- 
gent, than that exposed to the air. Along the bottom 
of the sulphur bank, they found a number of pieces of 
tufa, extremely cellular and light. A thick fog now 
came over, which, being followed by a shower of 
rain, obliged them to leave this interesting laboratory 
of nature, and return to their companions. On 
their visit to the sulphur banks, they saw two flocks 
12 



134 LODGING PLACE FOR THE NIGHT. 

of wild geese, which came down from the moun- 
tains, and settled among the ohelo bushes, near the 
pools of water. The natives informed them there 
were vast flocks in the interiour, although they were 
never seen near the shore. 

Just as the sun was setting, they reached the place 
where they had left their baggage, and found Messrs. 
Bishop and Harwood sitting near the spot where 
the natives had erected a hut. We were none of us 
pleased with the site which they had chosen. It 
was at the north-east end of the crater, on a pile of 
rocks overhanging the abyss below, and actually 
within four feet of the precipice. When we ex- 
pressed our disapprobation, they said it was the only 
place where we might expect to pass the night un- 
disturbed by Pele, and secure from earthquakes and 
other calamity. We told them it was unneces- 
sarily near, and being also unsafe, we wished to 
remove. They answered, that as it was within the 
limits prescribed by Pele for safe lodging, they 
should be unwilling to sleep any where else, and 
had not time to build another hut for us. 

We then directed them to collect a quantity of 
fire-wood, as we expected the night would be cold, 
although the thermometer then stood at 69°. We 
were the more anxious to have the fuel collected 
before the shades of night should close upon us, as 
travelling in some places was extremely dangerous. 
The ground sounded hollow in every direction, 
frequently cracked, and, in two instances, actually 
gave way, while we were passing over it, Mr. 
Bishop was approaching the hut, when the lava 
suddenly broke under him. He instantly threw 
himself forward, and fell flat on his face over a part 
that was more solid. A boy, who followed Mr. 
Ellis to the sulphur banks, and walked about a yard 
behind him, also fell in. There was no crack in 
the surface of the lava, over which he was walking, 
neither did it bend under his weight, but broke 
suddenly, when he sunk up to his middle. His legs 



APPREHENSIONS RESPECTING A|R. THURSTON. 135 

and thighs were considerably bruised, but providen- 
tially he escaped without any other injury. The 
lava, in both places, was about two inches thick, 
and broke short, like rotten ice, leaving the aperture 
regular and defined, without even cracking the 
adjoining parts. On looking into the holes, we 
could see no bottom, but on both sides, at a short 
space from the aperture, the lava was solid, and they 
appeared to have fallen into a narrow chasm covered 
over by a thin crust of lava. 

When night came on, we kindled a good fire, and 
prepared our frugal supper. Mr. Thurston, how- 
ever, had not yet returned, and, as the darkness of 
the night increased, we began to feel anxious for his 
safety. The wind eame down from the mountains 
in violent gusts, dark clouds lowered over us, and a 
thick fog enveloped every object. Even the fires of 
the volcano were but indistinctly seen. The dark- 
ness of the night advanced, but no tidings reached 
us of Mr. Thurston. About 7 o'clock we sent out 
the natives, with torches and fire brands, to 6earch 
for him. They went as far as they dare, hallooing 
along the border of the crater, till their lights were 
extinguished, when they returned without having 
seen or heard any thing of him. We now increased 
our fire, hoping it might serve as a beacon to direct 
him to our hut. Eight o'clock came, and he did 
not appear. We begin seriously to fear that he had 
fallen into the crater itself, or some of the deep and 
rugged chasms, by w r hich it was surrounded. In 
this state of painful suspense we remained till nearly 
half past eight, when we were happily relieved by 
his sudden appearance. He had descended, and 
walked along the dark ledge, on the east side of the 
crater, till a chasm obliged him to ascend. Having 
with difficulty reached the top, he travelled along 
the south and western sides, till the light of our 
fire directed him to our encampment. The extent 
of the crater, the unevenness of the path, the nu- 
merous wide fissures in the lava, and the darkness 



136 KIRAUEA BY NIGHT. 

of the night had prevented his earlier arrival. We 
now partook with cheerfulness of our evening re- 
past, and afterwards, amidst the whistling of the 
winds around, and the roaring of the furnace be- 
neath, rendered our evening sacrifice of praise, and 
committed ourselves to the secure protection of our 
God. We then spread our mats on the ground. 

Between nine and ten, the dark clouds and heavy 
fog, that, since the setting of the sun, had hung over 
the volcano, gradually cleared away, and the fires of 
Kirauea, darting their fierce light athwart the mid- 
night gloom, unfolded a sight terrible and sublime 
beyond all we had yet seen. 

The agitated mass of liquid lava, like a flood of 
melted metal, raged with tumultuous whirl. The 
lively flame, that danced over its undulating surface, 
tinged with sulphureous blue, or glowing with min- 
eral red, cast a broad glare of dazzling light on the 
indented sides of the insulated craters, whose bel- 
lowing mouths, amidst rising flames, and eddying 
streams of fire, shot up, at frequent intervals, with 
loudest detonations, spherical masses of fusing lava, 
or bright ignited stones. 

The dark, bold outline of the perpendicular and 
jutting rocks around, formed a striking contrast with 
the luminous lake below, whose vivid rays, thrown 
on the rugged promontories, and reflected by the 
overhanging clouds, combined to complete the awful 
grandeur of the imposing scene. 

We sat gazing at the magnificent phenomenon for 
several hours, when we laid ourselves down on our 
mats, in order to observe more leisurely its varying 
aspect; for although we had travelled upwards of 
twenty miles since the morning, and were both 
weary and cold, we felt but little inclination to sleep. 
This disinclination was probably increased by our 
proximity to the yawning gulf, and our conviction, 
that the detachment of one small stone from beneath 
the overhanging pile, on which we were reclining, 
or the slightest concussion of the earth, which every 



< 






~ 





! 




.^hLAJlL 



TRADITIONS RESPECTING THE VOLCANO. 137 

thing around indicated to be no unfrequent occur- 
rence, would perhaps precipitate us, amidst the hor- 
rid crash of falling rocks, intp the burning lake im- 
mediately before us. 

The natives, who probably viewed the scene with 
thoughts and feelings somewhat different from ours, 
seemed, however, equally interested. They sat 
most of the night talking of the achievements of 
Pele, and regarding with a superstitious fear, at 
which we were not surprised, the brilliant exhibition. 
They considered it the primeval abode of their vol- 
canic deities. The conical craters, they said, were 
their houses, where they frequently amused them- 
selves by playing at konane; the roaring of the fur- 
naces, and the crackling of the flames, were the 
kani of their hura, (music of their dance;) and the 
red flaming surge was the surf wherein they played, 
sportively swimming on the rolling wave.* 

As eight of the natives with us, belonged to the 
adjoining district, we asked them to tell us what they 
knew of the history of this volcano, and what their 
opinions were respecting it. From their account, 
and that of others with whom we conversed, we 
learned that it had been burning from time imme- 
morial, or, to use their own words, "mai ka po 
?nai," (from chaos till now,t) and had inundated 
some part of the country during the reign of every 
king that had ^governed Hawaii. That, in earlier 
ages, it used to boil up, overflow its banks, and in- 
undate the adjacent country; but that, for many 
king's reigns past, it had kept below the level of the 
surrounding plain, continually extending its surface, 
and increasing its depth, and occasionally throwing 
up, with violent explosion, huge rocks, or red hot 

* Swimming on the sea, when there is a high surf, is a favourite amusement 
throughout the Sandwich, and other islands in the Pacific 

t The Hawaiian traditions refer the origin of the world, and almost all things 
therein, the greater part of their gods not excepted, to night, or a chaotic state. 
The present state they call the ao marama, (day, or state of light.) 'They speak 
of creation as a transition from darkness to light; and when they wish to express 
the existence of any thing from the beginning, they say it has been so, ^mai kap§ 
mai? (from the night tiff now.) 

12* 



138 FABULOUS TRADITIONS. 

stones. These eruptions, they said, were always ac- 
companied by dreadful earthquakes, loud claps of 
thunder, vivid and quick succeeding lightning. No 
great explosion, they added, had taken place, since 
the days of Keoua, but many places near the sea had 
since been overflowed; on which occasions they sup- 
posed Pele went, by a road under ground, from her 
house in the crater to the shore. 

These few facts were gathered from their accounts 
of its origin and operation; but they were so incor- 
porated with their traditions of its supernatural in- 
habitants, and fabulous stories of their romantic 
adventures, that we found no small difficulty in dis- 
tinguishing fiction from fact. Among other things 
we were told, that though, according to the traditions 
preserved in their songs, Kirauea had been burning 
ever since the island emerged from night, it was 
not inhabited till after the Taiakahin'rii, (sea of 
Kahin'rii,) or deluge of the Sandwich Islands. 
Shortly after that event, they say, the present vol- 
canic family came from Tahiti, a foreign country, 
to Hawaii. 

The names of the principal individuals were Ka- 
mohoarii, Tapohaita hi'ora (the explosion in the place 
of life,) Teuaatepo (the rain of night,) Tanehetiri 
(husband of thunder, or thundering Tane.) and Teo- 
ahitamataua (fire-thrusting child of war.) These 
were all brothers, and two of them, Vulcan-like, 
were deformed, having hump backs. Pele, princi- 
pal goddess, Makorewawahiwaa (fiery-eyed canoe 
breaker,) Hiatawawahiiani (heaven-rending cloud 
holder,) Hiatanoholani, (heaven-dwelling cloud hold- 
er,) Hiatataaravamata (quick^glancing-eyed cloud 
holder, or the cloudholder whose eyes turn quickly, 
and look frequently over her shoulders,) Hiatahoite- 
poriopele (the cloudholder embracing or kissing the 
bosom of Pele,) Hiatatabuenaena (the red hot moun* 
tain holding or lifting clouds,) Hiatatareiia (the 
Wreath or garland-encircled cloudholder,) and Hia- 
taopio (young cloudholder.) 



NATIVE SUPERSTITIONS. 139 

These were all sisters, and, with many others in 
their train, on landing at Hawaii, are said to have 
taken up their abode in Kirauea. Something of 
their characters may be inferred from the few names 
we have given. Whenever the natives speak of 
them, it is as dreadful beings. This volcano is re- 
presented as having b«en their principal residence 
ever since their arrival, though they are thought to 
have many other dwellings, in different parts of 
the island, and not a few on the tops of the snow- 
covered mountains. To these some of them fre- 
quently remove. Sometimes their arrival in a dis- 
trict was foretold by the priests of the heiaus there, 
and always announced by the convulsive trembling 
of the earth, the illuminating fire in their houses, 
(craters,) the flashes of lightning, and the roar of 
awful thunder. They never journied on errands of 
mercy. To receive offerings, or execute vengeance, 
were the only objects for which they left their pal- 
ace. Ci Nui wale" said the people with whom we 
were talking, u ka kanaka i make iarakou;" (great 
indeed is the number of men slain by them;) "ua 
rau, ua rau, ua ran, ka puaa i tioraia na rakou;" 
(four hundreds, four hundreds, four hundreds of hogs 
have been thrown to them.*) The whole island 
was considered bound to pay them tribute, or sup- 
port their heiaus, and kaku, (devotees;) and when- 
ever the chiefs or people failed to send the proper 
offerings, or incurred their displeasure by insulting 
them or their priests, or breaking the tabu of their 
domain in the vicinity of the craters, they filled 
Kirauea with lava, and spouted it out; or, taking a 
subterranean passage, marched to some one of their 
houses (craters) in the neighbourhood, and from 
thence came down upon the delinquents with all 
their dreadful scourges. If a sufficient number of 
fish were not taken to them by the inhabitants of the 

* Vast numbers of hogs, some alive, others cooked, were thrown into the craters, 
during the time they were in action, or when they threatened an eruption; and 
also during an inundation many were thrown into the rolling torrent of Java, to 
appease the gods, and stay its progress. 



140 FABULOUS TRADITIONS. 

seashore, they would go down, and with fire kill all 
the fish, fill up with pahoehoe (lava,) the shallow 
places, and destroy all the fishing grounds. 

We were told that several attempts had been 
made to drive them off the islands, and that once 
they w r ere nearly overpowered by Tamapuaa, the 
centaur of Hawaii, a gigantic animal, half hog and 
half man. He travelled from Oahu to countries be- 
yond the heavens; that is, beyond where the heavens 
appear to rest on the sea. He also visited Kirauea, 
and made proposals to become the guest and suitor of 
Pele, the elder sister. When she saw him standing 
on the edge of the crater, she rejected his proposals 
with contempt, calling him a hog, the son of a hog. 
On her ascending from the crater to drive him away, 
a fierce combat ensued. Pele was forced to her vol- 
/ cano, and threatened with destruction from the waters 
of the sea, which Tamapuaa poured into the crater, 
till it was almost full, and the fires were nearly ex- 
tinct, Pele and her companions drank up the waters, 
rose again from the craters, and finally succeeded in 
driving Tamapuaa into the sea, whither she follow- 
ed him with thunder, lightning, and showers of large 
stones. 

They also related the account of the destruction 
of part of Keoua's camp, by a sudden eruption of 
the volcano. Pele, they said, was propitious to Ta- 
mehameha, and availed herself of the opportunity 
afforded by the contiguous encampment of Keoua, 
to diminish bis forces and aid the cause of his rival. 
We asked, why Keoua was unpopular with Pele. 
They said, "We do not correctly know. Some say 
he had not sent sufficient offerings to the heiaus; 
others, that he had no right to make war against Ta- 
mehameha, as he had before concluded a treaty of 
peace with him; and others, that he had broken the 
tabu of the place, by eating the ohelos, marking and 
disturbing the sand, or pulling up a sacred kind of 
grass growing in the neighbourhood." Whatever 
was the cause, Pele, they said, was "huhu roa" 



FABULOUS TRADITIONS. 141 

(exceedingly angry,) and soon after sunset repeated- 
ly shook the earth with the most violent heaving 
motion, sent up a column of dense black smoke, fol- 
lowed by the most brilliant flames. A violent per- 
cussion was afterwards felt, streams of lava were 
spouted up like a fountain of fire, and immense rocks 
in a state of ignition thrown to a great height in the 
air. A volley of smaller stones, thrown with much 
greater velocity and force, instantly followed the 
larger ones, and struck some of them, when the 
latter frequently burst with a report like thunder, 
accompanied by the most vivid flashes of lightning. 
Many of his people were killed by the falling frag- 
ments of rock, and many were actually buried be- 
neath the overwhelming mass of ashes and lava. Not 
intimidated by this event, which many considered 
as a premonition of his fate, Keoua continued his 
march, and the volcano continued its action, confin- 
ing, however, its operation within the boundaries of 
Kirauea. We had heard the account several times 
before, with some little variation as to the numbers 
killed, and the appearance of Pele to Keoua, and, 
with the exception of this last circumstance, believe 
it to be true. 

Frequently, during the night, the natives thought 
they saw some one or other of the deities; but im- 
mediately afterwards they doubted. At these times, 
if we asked them where they saw Pele, they would 
sometimes point to the red lava, at others to the va- 
riegated flame. On our saying we could not per- 
ceive any distinct form, they generally answered by 
assuring us, that, during the night, some one or other 
of them would certainly be seen. We jocosely re- 
quested them to inform us as soon as any appeared, 
and even to awake us should we happen to be asleep. 
At the same time, we told them, that w r hen we con- 
sidered their ignorance of the true God, and of the 
causes by which the action of volcanos was sustain- 
ed, we were not surprised at their supposing them 
to be the habitations of their gods, and their opera- 



142 EXTENT OP THE CRATER. 

tions those of supernatural beings. We also endea- 
voured to explain, so far as they were capable of 
understanding, and their language would allow, some 
of the causes and principal phenomena of volcanic 
fire, the sources whence it was nourished, and the 
nature of its amazing power, illustrating the latter 
characteristic by the great force of gunpowder, with 
the effects of which they were familiar; and assuring 
them that the expansive force of steam is much 
greater than that of gunpowder. With respect to 
the part electricity is supposed to have in the pro- 
duction of earthquakes and volcanoes, we could say 
nothing, as there is no term in their language to 
express any thing connected with the science, ex- 
cept uira, by which name they call the lightning. 

2d. After two or three hours sleep, we arose be- 
fore it was day, and gathering round our fire, sung 
our morning hymn of praise, in which we were 
joined by the natives, who were with us. The sun 
had now arisen, and as we had no provisions left, 
we felt it necessary to prepare for our departure. 
Mr. Goodrich walked along the north side of the 
crater, in order to enable us to form as accurate an 
opinion as possible of its actual dimensions; and 
from the observations of Mr. Goodrich and Mr. 
Thurston, as well as those the rest of us made when 
we walked along the north and east sides, we think 
the crater is not less than five, or five and a half 
miles in circumference.* 

We regret that we had not means for ascertaining 
more accurately its depth. We lowered down aline 
one hundred feet from the edge, on which our hut 
was erected; but it did not appear to reach near half 
way to the black ledge of lava. And judging the 
proportion below to equal that above, we do not 
think it less than 700 or S00 feet to the bottom. 

* Mr. Ellis, Dr. Blatchely, Mr. Chamberlain, and some other members of the 
mission, have since visited the volcano, when they endeavoured again to measure 
its circumference. Mr. Chamberlain walked round the northern end of it, and 
numbering his paces, made that part of it three miles, and one sixteenth; from 
which we think the above estimate does not exceed the actual extent of the crater. 



DESCENT INTO THE CRATER. 143 

We also threw down several large stones, which, 
after several seconds, struck on the sides, and then 
bounded down to the bottom, where they were lost 
in the lava. Some of them were large, as much as 
we could lift; yet, when they reached the bottom, 
they appeared like pebbles, and we were obliged to 
watch their course very steadily to perceive them 
at all. 

We now walked on to the pools of w r ater, where 
we filled our canteens. Here, also, our party sepa- 
rated. Messrs. Goodrich and Harwood proceeding 
across the interiour through the villages of Ora, to 
Waiakea, in the division of Hiro, while the rest of 
us passed along the east side of the crater towards 
the sea-shore. The path was, in many places, dan- 
gerous, lying along narrow ridges, with fearful prec- 
ipices on each side; or across deep chasms and hol- 
lows that required the utmost care to avoid falling 
into them, and where a fall would have been certain 
death, as several of the chasms seemed narrowest at 
the surface. In one place, we passed along for a 
considerable distance under a high precipice, where 
the impending rocks towered some hundred feet 
above us on our left, and the appalling flood of lava, 
rolled almost immediately beneath us on our right. 
On this side we descended to some small craters on 
the declivity, and also to the black ledge; where 
we collected a number of beautiful specimens of 
Java, generally of a black or red colour, light, cellu- 
lar, brittle, and shining. We also found a quantity 
of volcanic glass, drawn out in filaments as fine as 
human hair, and called by the natives rauoho o Pele, 
(hair of Pele.) It was of a dark olive colour, semi- 
transparent, and brittle, though some of the fila- 
ments were several inches long. Probably it was 
produced by the bursting of igneous masses of lava 
thrown out from the craters, or separated in fine 
spun thread from the boiling fluid when in a state of 
perfect fusion, borne by the smoke or vapour above 
the edges of the crater, and thence wafted by the 



144 DESCENT INTO THE CRATER. 

winds over the adjacent plain; for we also found 
quantities of it at least seven miles distant from the 
crater. We entered several small craters that had 
been in vigorous action but a short period before, 
marks of very recent fusion presenting themselves 
on every side. Their size and height was various, 
and many, which, from the top, had appeared insig- 
nificant as mole-hills, we now found twelve or 
twenty feet high. The outsides were composed of 
bright shining lava, heaped up in piles of most sin- 
gular form. The lava on the inside was of a light 
or dark red colour, with a glazed surface, and in 
several places, where the heat had evidently been 
intense, we saw a deposit of small and beautifully 
white crystals. We also entered several covered 
channels, down which the lava had flowed into the 
large abyss. They were formed by the cooling of 
the lava, on the sides and surface of the stream, 
while it continued to flow on underneath. As the 
size of the current diminished, it had left a hard 
crust of lava of various thickness over the top, sup- 
ported by walls of the same materials on each side. 
The interiour was beautiful beyond description. In 
many places they were ten or twelve feet high, and 
as many wide at the bottom. The roofs formed a 
regular arch, hung with red and brown stalactatic 
lava, in every imaginable shape; while the bottom 
presented one continued glassy stream. The wind- 
ing of its current, and the ripple of its surface was 
so entire, that it seemed as if, while in rapid mo- 
tion, the stream had suddenly stopped and petrified, 
even before its undulated surface could subside. 
We travelled along one of these volcanic chambers 
to the edge of the precipice that bounds the great 
crater, and looked over the fearful steep, down 
which the fiery cascade had rushed. In the place 
where it had fallen, the lava had formed a spacious 
basin which, hardening as it cooled, had retained 
all those forms, which a torrent of lava, falling sev- 
eral hundred feet, might be expected to produce on 



ANOTHER CRATER. 145 

on the viscid mass below. In the neighbourhood 
we saw several large rocks of a dark grey colour, 
weighing, probably, from one to four or five tons, 
which, although they did not bear any marks of fire, 
must have been ejected from the great crater during 
some violent eruption, as the surrounding rocks, in 
every direction, presented a very different appear- 
ance. They were hard, and exhibited, when frac- 
tured, a glimmering and uneven surface. When we 
had broken off specimens of them, and of some red 
earthy stones, which seemed to have been exposed 
to a strong heat, before thrown out of the volcano, 
we passed along to the east side, where Mr. Ellis 
took a sketch of the south-west end of the crater. 

As we travelled on from this spot, we unexpect- 
edly came to another deep crater, nearly half as 
large as the former. The native name of it is Ki- 
raueaiti, or Little Kirauea. It is separated from 
the large crater by an isthmus nearly 100 yards 
wide. Its sides were covered with trees and 
shrubs, but the bottom was filled with lava, either 
fluid or scarcely cold, and probably supplied by the 
great crater, as the trees, &c. on its sides, shewed 
that it had remained many years in a state of quies- 
cence. Though this was the only small one we saw, 
our companions informed us there were many in the 
neighbourhood. 

They also pointed out to us the ruins of Oararauo, 
an old heiau, which crowned the summit of a lofty 
precipice on our left. It was formerly a temple of 
Pele, of which Kamakaakeakua, (the eye of god,) a 
distinguished soothsayer, who died in the reign of 
Tamehameha, was many years priest. Large offer- 
ings were frequently made of hogs, dogs, fish and 
fruits: but we could not learn that human victims 
were ever immolated on its altars. These offerings 
were always cooked in the adjoining ground, or 
steaming chasms. Had they been dressed any 
where else, or prepared with other fire, they 

13 $ 



146 DESCRIPTION OF MOUNA ROA. 

would have been considered polluted, and have 
drawn curses upon those who presented them. 

The ground, throughout the whole plain, is so 
hot, that bird-catchers, and those who come to the 
mountains for wood, always cook their food, wheth- 
er animal or vegetable, by simply burying it in 
the earth. The east side of the plain was orna- 
mented with some beautiful species of filices, and 
thickly covered with ohelos, of which we ate very 
freely, as we walked along, till, coming to a steep 
precipice, we ascended about 400 feet, and reached 
the high land on the side towards the sea, which 
commanded a fine view of Mouna Roa, opposite to 
which w T e had been walking ever since we left 
Punaruu. It appeared of an oval shape, stretching 
along in a south-west direction nearly parallel with 
the south-east shore, from which its base was gen- 
erally distant twenty or thirty miles. A ridge of 
high land appeared to extend from the eastern point 
to the south-west shore. Between it and the foot 
of Mouna Roa, was a considerable valley, from seven 
to twelve miles wide. The summit of Mouna Roa, 
while we were there, was never free from snow, 
though a greater portion of it appeared covered in 
the morning than in the evening. By the help of 
a glass, we could discover numerous extinguished 
craters, with brown and black streams of lava, over 
the whole extent of its surface. The higher parts 
were totally destitute of vegetation, though its foot 
was encircled on this side by trees and shrubs, 
which extended from its base six or seven miles. 

Here we took our last view of the wide stretched, 
sunken plain, with all its hills and banks of sulphur, 
its blazing craters, and its igneous lake. It 
is situated in the district of Kapapala, nearly on the 
boundary line between the divisions of Kau and 
Puna, twenty miles from the sea-shore. From the 
isthmus between Kirauea-nui, or Great Kirauea, 
and Little Kirauea, the highest peak of Mouna Kea 
bore, by compass, N. N. W., and the centre of 



PROBABLE STRUCTURE OF THE ISLAND. 147 

Mouna Roa, W. S W. The uneven summits of the 
steep rocks, that, like a wall many miles in extent, 
surrounded the crater, and all its appendages, 
showed the original level of the country, or perhaps 
marked the base of some lofty mountain, origin- 
ally raised by the accumulation of volcanic matter, 
whose bowels had been consumed by fire, and 
whose sides had afterwards fallen into the vast 
furnace, where, reduced a second time to a liquified 
state, they had again been vomited out on the adja- 
cent plain. 

But the magnificent fires of Kirauea, which we 
had viewed with such admiration, appeared to 
dwindle into taper glimmerings, when we contem- 
plated the possible, not to say probable, existence, 
of immense subterranean fires, immediately beneath 
us. The whole island of Hawaii, covering a space 
of 4,000 square miles, from the summits of its lofty 
mountains perhaps 15,000 or 16,000 feet above 
the level of the sea,* down to the beach that is 
washed by the rolling wave, is, according to every 
observation we could make, one complete mass of 
lava, or other volcanic matter, in different stages of 
decomposition: and, perforated with innumerable 
apertures, (or craters,) forms, perhaps, a stupendous 
arch over one vast furnace, situated in the heart 
of a huge submarine mountain, of which the island 
of Hawaii is but the apex. Or, possibly, the fires 
rage with augmented force at the unfathomable 
depth of the ocean's bed; and reared, through the 
super-incumbent weight of waters, a hollow moun- 
tain, forming the base of Hawaii, and, at the same 
time, a pyramidal funnel from the furnace to the 
atmosphere. 

* Admitting the snow to remain permanent on mountains in the torrid zone, 
at the height of 14,600 feet, we conjecture the above to be the height of Mouna Roa, 
and Mouna Kea, as the tops of those two mountains are covered with perpetual 
snow. Their summits are formed of decomposed lava, and are marked with numer- 
ous craters. 



H§ FACE OF THE COUNTRY. 



CHAPTER VII. 

Journey to Kearakomo, and reception there. — Re- 
ported eruption of lava in Kapapala. — Sabbath 
at Kearakomo -Affectionate reception of Mauae 
at Kaimu. — Conversation ivith the people — 
Marks of an earthquake, — Description of 
Kaimu. — Manner of launching and landing 
canoes at Kehena. — Preaching and conversa- 
tion with the people. — Extinguished volcano in 
the valley of Kapoho. — Traditionary story of a 
contest between Pele and Kahavari* — Incidents 
on the journey to Waiakea. 

Though we left our encampment at day-break, it 
was eleven o'clock in the forenoon before we took 
our final leave of Kirauea. 

The path, by which we descended towards the 
sea, was about south-east-by-east. On the high 
lands, in the vicinity of the crater, we found the 
ground covered with strawberry plants, on some of 
which were a few berries, but the season for them 
appeared to have gone by. The plants and vines 
were small, as was also the fruit, which, in its colour 
and shape, resembled the hautboy strawberry, 
though, in taste, it was much more insipid. Straw- 
berries, as well as raspberries, are indigenous plants, 
and are found in great abundance over most of the 
high lands of Hawaii, though we do not know of 
their existence in any other islands of the group. 
The ground, over which we walked, was composed 
of ancient lava, in a state of decomposition, broken 
into small pieces, resembling coarse, dry gravel, to 
the depth of two or three inches, below which it 
was one solid mass of lava. The surface was cov- 
ered with ohelo bushes, and a few straggling shrubs, 
which made travelling much more agreeable, than 
when we approached the volcano. 



FACE OF THE COUNTRY. 149 

Within a few miles of Kirauea, we passed three 
or four high and rugged craters. One of them, 
Keanakakoi, the natives told us, sent forth, in the 
days of Riroa, king of Hawaii, about fourteen gener- 
ations back, most of the lava, over which we were 
travelling. The sides of these craters were general- 
ly covered with verdure, while the brown, irregular 
shaped rocks on their summits, frowned like the 
battlements of an ancient castle in ruins. 

As we approached the sea, the soil became more 
generally spread over the surface, and vegetation was 
more luxuriant. About 2 o'clock, P. M. we sat 
down to rest. The natives ran to a spot in the 
neighbourhood, that had formerly been a plantation, 
and brought a number of pieces of sugar-cane, with 
which we quenched our thirst, and then walked on 
till about three o'clock, when we reached the edge 
of the high ground, which, at a remote period, pro- 
bably formed the eastern coast. 

We stopped at a solitary cottage, where we pro- 
cured a copious draught of fresh water, to us a most 
grateful beverage, as we had travelled ever since the 
morning without any refreshment, except a few ber- 
ries and a piece of sugar-cane. We descended 400 
or 500 feet, by a narrow winding path covered with 
overhanging trees, and bordered by shrubs and grass. 
We then walked over a tract of lava considerably 
decomposed, and about five miles wide, at the end 
of which' another steep appeared. Down this we 
descended by following the course of a rugged cur- 
rent of lava, for about 600 feet perpendicular depth, 
when we arrived at the plain below, which was one 
extended sheet of lava, without shrub or bush, stretch- 
ing to the north and south as far as the eye could 
reach, and from four to six miles across, from the 
foot of the mountain to the sea. 

The natives gave us the fabulous story of the com- 
bat between Pele and Tamapuaa, as the origin of 
this flood of lava. We crossed it in about two 
hours, and arrived at Kearakomo, the second divis- 
13* 



150 RECEPTION AT KEARAKOMQ. 

ion of Puna. We stopped at the first house we came 
to, and begged some water. They brought us a cal- 
abash full, of which we drank most hearty draughts, 
though it was little better than the water of the sea, 
from which it had percolated through the vesicles of 
lava into hollows from nine to twelve feet from the 
ocean. It barely quenched our thirst while we were 
swallowing it, but it was the best we could procure, 
and we could hardly refrain from drinking at every 
hollow to which we came. After walking about a 
mile along the beach, we came to a house, which 
our guide pointed out as our lodgings. It was a 
miserable hut, and we asked whether we could not 
find better accommodations, as we intended passing 
the Sabbath in the village. Mauae told us it was the 
only one in the place, that was not thronged with 
people, and he thought it the most comfortable one 
we could procure. The village is populous, and the 
natives thronged around us like bees; and to our 
great regret, two thirds of them appeared to be in a 
state of intoxication, a circumstance we frequently 
had occasion to lament, in the villages through which 
we passed. Their inebriation was generally the ef- 
fect of rum, or of an intoxicating drink made of fer- 
mented ti root, sugar-cane juice, or sweet potatoes. 
We sent to the head man of the village for some 
refreshment, but he was intoxicated, and though we 
had walked upwards of twenty miles since the morn- 
ing, and had but scanty fare since leaving Kapapala, 
we could only procure a few cold potatoes, and two 
or three pieces of raw salt fish. Multitudes crowd- 
ed around our hut; and with those who were sober 
we entered into conversation. When they learned 
that we had been to Kirauea, they were unwilling to 
believe we had broken the sulphur banks, eaten the 
ohelos, descended to the craters, or broken any frag- 
ments of lava from them; as they said, Pele ma y 
Pele and her associates, would certainly have re- 
venged the insult. However, when our boys show- 
ed them the ohelo berries, with the specimens of 



REPORTED ERUPTION AT KAPAPALA. 151 

sulphur and lava, that we had brought away, they 
were convinced that we had been there, but said that 
we had escaped, only because we were haore, (for- 
eigners.) No Hawaiian, they added, would have 
done so with impunity, for Pele was a dreadful being. 

They also told us, that, no longer than five moons 
ago, she had issued from a subterranean cavern, and 
overflowed the low land of Kapapala. The inunda- 
tion was sudden and violent, burnt one canoe, and 
carried four more into the sea. At Mahuka, the 
deep torrent of lava, bore into the sea a huge rock, 
according to their account nearly a hundred feet high, 
which, a short period before, had been separated, by 
an earthquake, from the main pile in the neighbour- 
hood li now stands, they say, in the sea, nearly a 
mile from the shore, its bottom surrounded by lava, 
its summit rising considerably above the water. We 
exceedingly regretted our ignorance of this recent 
inundation, at the time we passed through the above 
mentioned districts, for had we known of it then, we 
should certainly have descended to the shore, and 
examined its extent and appearance. We now felt 
convinced, that the chasms we had visited at Pona- 
hohoa, and the smoking fissures we afterwards saw, 
marked the course of a stream of lava, and thought 
it probable that, though the lava had burst out five 
months ago, it was still flowing in a smaller and less 
rapid stream. Perhaps the body of the lava, that 
had filled Kirauea up to the black ledge, which we 
saw between 300 and 400 feet above the liquid lava, 
at that time had been drawn off by this subterranean 
channel, though the distance between the great cra- 
ter and the land overflowed by it, was not less than 
thirty or thirty-five miles. 

When the day began to close, and we wished the 
people to retire, we told them that to-morrow was 
the sacred day of Jehovah, the true God, and directed 
them to come together early in the morning to hear 
his word, and unite with us in his worship. We 
then spread our mats upon some poles 5 that lay at 



152 A SABBATH AT KEARAKOMO. 

one end of the house, and as we had no lamp, and 
could procure no candle-nuts, we laid ourselves down 
as soon as it became dark, and notwithstanding our 
uncomfortable lodging place, slept very soundly till 
day-break. 

Aug. 3d. "Welcome sweet day of rest," was the 
language of our hearts, as we beheld the Sabbath's 
early light dawn on the desolate shores of Puna, and 
saw the bright luminary of day, emblem of the Sab- 
bath's Lord, rise from the eastern wave of the ex- 
tended Pacific. After the fatiguing journey and 
unusual excitement of the past week, a day's rest 
was necessary, and we were happy to spend it in 
the populous village of Kearakomo, as it afforded us 
an opportunity of unfolding the Saviour's love to 
many of its inhabitants, and inviting them to seek 
that everlasting rest and happiness reserved for his 
followers in the heavenly world. 

Between six and seven o'clock, about two hundred 
of the people collected in front of our house. We 
sang a hymn, after which one of our number preach- 
ed to them a discourse, which occupied rather more 
than half an hour, and another concluded the service 
with prayer. They were all sober and appeared at- 
tentive. Several proposed questions to us, and when 
we had answered them, we directed them to return 
to their houses, abstain from fishing, or other ordi- 
nary employments; and, when the sun was over their 
heads, to come together again, and hear more about 
Jehovah and Jesus Christ. Many, however, contin- 
ued talking with the natives belonging to our com- 
pany, and gazing at us through most of the day. 

About 9, A. M. a friend of Mauae brought us a 
fowl and a bundle of potatoes. We procured another, 
and our boys cooked them in an oven of stones under 
ground, and they made us a good breakfast. All that 
we wanted was fresh water, that which we were 
obliged to drink being extremely brackish. 

At 12 o'clock, about three hundred of the people 
again assembled to hear the word. The head man 



A SABBATH AT KEARAKOMO. 15S 

©f the village was present during the service. He 
came into our house after it was over, and told us 
all his provisions were at his farm, at a considerable 
distance inland, and that to-morrow he intended to 
bring us a hog and some potatoes. We thanked 
him, but told him probably we should proceed on 
our way early in the morning. He went away, and 
in a short time returned with a raw salted albicore, 
and a basket of baked sweet potatoes which he said 
was all he could furnish us with to day. We spent 
the afternoon in conversation with the people who 
crowded our hut, and wished to inquire more fully 
about the things, of which they had heard. Between 
five and six in the evening, the people again collect- 
ed for worship in front of our house, when they were 
addressed from Isaiah lx, 1; " Arise, shine, for thy 
light is come." They listened with attention to the 
advantages of Christian light and knowledge, contrast- 
ed with pagan ignorance and misery, and several ex- 
claimed at the close of the service, "Oia no. Poe- 
reere makou. Eake makou i hoomaramarama 
ia" (So it is. We are dark. We desire to be en- 
lightened.) In the evening, we were so favoured, 
as to procure a calabash of fresh water from the caves 
in the mountains, where it had filtered through the 
strata of lava, and was received into calabashes placed 
there for that purpose. It tasted bitter from standing 
long in the calabashes, but yet it was a luxury, for 
our thirst was great, notwithstanding the quantities 
of water we had drank during the day. About sun 
set we ate some of our raw fish and half baked po- 
tatoes When it began to grow dark, we concluded 
the day with prayer, in which we besought that the 
gracious influences of the Holy Spirit might follow 
our feeble attempts to declare his truth, and might 
make it effectual to the saving illumination of those 
who had heard. We afterwards laid down upon our 
mats, but passed an uncomfortable night from the 
swarms of vermin, and the indisposition induced by 



154 FACE OF THE COUNTRY. 

the nature of the food and water we had taken, since 
leaving the volcano. 

4th. We conducted worship with the people of 
the village at sunrise, and, after a short address, in 
which we earnestly recommended them to give them- 
selves up to the Saviour, we bade them farewell, and 
set out again on our journey. Leaving Kearakomo, 
we walked several miles in a north-easterly direc- 
tion, along the same bed of lava, that we had cross- 
ed on Saturday evening. When we had passed 
Punau, Leapuki, and Kamomoa, the country began 
to wear a more agreeable aspect. Groves of coacoa- 
nuts ornamented the projecting points of land, 
clumps of kou trees appeared in various directions, 
and the habitations of the natives were more thickly 
scattered over the coast. At noon we passed through 
Pulana, where we saw a large heiau, called Wahau- 
ra (red-mouth, or red-feather mouth,) built by Ta- 
mehameha, and dedicated to Tairi, his war god. 
Human sacrifices, we were informed, were occasion- 
ally offered here. Shortly after, we reached Kupa- 
hua, a pleasant village, situated on a rising ground, 
in the midst of groves of shady trees, and surround- 
ed by a well cultivated country. Here we stopped, 
and having collected the people of the village to- 
gether, Mr. Ellis preached to them. They after- 
wards. proposed several interesting inquiries connect- 
ed with what they had heard, and said it was a good 
thing for us to aroha (have compassion) on them. 
They also asked when we would come again. 

Leaving this interesting place, we passed on to 
Kalapana, a small village on the sea-shore, distin- 
guished as the residence of Kapihi, who, in the days 
of Tamehameha, told that prince that, at his death, 
he would see all his ancestors, and that hereafter 
they would all live again on Hawaii. We saw a 
large heiau, of which he was chief priest, but did 
not see many people in the houses, as we passed 
along. 



BEAUTIFUL SPECIMEN OF NATIVE MANNERS. 155 

About 3, P. M. we approached Kaimu. This 
was the birth place of Mauae, and the residence of 
most of his relations. He was a young man belong- 
ing to the Governor, who had been sent with the 
canoe, and, since leaving Honuapo, had acted 
as our guide. He walked before us as we entered 
the village. The old people from the houses wel- 
comed him as he passed along, and numbers of the 
young men and women came out to meet him, sal- 
uted him by touching noses, and wept for joy at his 
arrival. Some took off his hat, and crowned him 
with a garland of flowers; others hung round his 
neck wreaths of a sweet scented plant, resembling 
ivy, or necklaces composed of the nut of the fra- 
grant pandarius. When we reached the house where 
his sister lived, she ran to meet him, threw her arms 
around his neck, and having affectionately embraced 
him, walked hand in hand with him through the 
village. Multitudes of young people and children 
followed, chanting his name, the names of his pa- 
rents, the place and circumstances of his birth, and 
the most remarkable events in the history of his 
family, in a lively song, which, he afterwards in- 
formed us, was composed at his birth. 

Thus we passed along till we reached his father's 
house, where a general effusion of affection and joy, 
presented itself, which it was impossible to witness 
without delight. A number of children, who ran 
on before, had announced his approach. His father, 
followed by his brothers and several other relations, 
came out, and met him, and, under the shade of a 
wide spreading kou tree, fell on his neck, and wept 
aloud for some minutes; after which they took him 
by the hand, and led him through a neat little gar- 
den into the house. He seated himself on a mat on 
the floor, while his brothers and sisters gathered 
round him. Some unloosed his sandals, and rubbed 
his limbs; others clasped his hand, frequently saluting 
it by touching it with their noses; others brought 
him a calabash of water, or a lighted tobacco pipe 



156 EVANGELICAL LABOURS. 

One of his sisters, in particular, seemed considera- 
bly affected. She clasped his hand, and sat for some 
time weeping by his side. At this we should have 
been surprised, had we not known it to be the usual 
manner among the South Sea islanders of expressing 
unusual joy or grief. In the present instance, it 
was the unrestrained expression of the feelings of 
nature. Indeed every one seemed at a loss how to 
manifest the sincere pleasure, w T hich his unexpected 
arrival, after several years absence, had produced. 
On first reaching the house, we had thrown ourselves 
down on a mat, and remained silent spectators, not 
however without being considerably affected by the 
Interesting scene. We had been sitting in the house 
about an hour, when a small hog nicely baked under 
ground, with some good sweet potatoes, was brought 
in for dinner, of which we were kindly invited to 
partake. 

As there was plenty of good fresh w r ater here, we 
found ourselves more comfortably provided for, than 
we had been since leaving Kapapala, on Thursday 
last. At six o'clock in the evening, we sent to col- 
lect the people of the village to hear preaching. Be- 
tween three and four hundred assembled under a 
clump of shady trees, in front of the house, and Mr. 
Ellis preached to them from Psalms xxii, 27 and 28. 
Our singing appeared to interest them, as well as 
other parts of the service; and at the conclusion, 
several of them exclaimed, "Jehovah is a good God; 
I desire him for my God." 

About this time, Makoa arrived with our baggage. 
We were glad to see him, and inquired where he 
had been, during the past week. He said he stop- 
ped only one night at Honuapo, and followed on the 
next morning, observing at the same time, we must 
have travelled very fast, or he should have been here 
before us, as he had not gone round by the volcano, 
but had proceeded in a straight line from Kapapala 
to Kearakomo. 



AN EVENING AT KAIMtf/ 157 

The evening we spent with the people of the 
place in conversation on various subjects, but prin- 
cipally respecting the volcano we had recently visit- 
ed. They corroborated the accounts we had before 
heard, by telling us it had been burning from time 
immemorial, and added, that eruptions from it had 
taken place during every king's reign, whose name 
was preserved in tradition, or song, from Alkea, first 
king of the island, down to the present monarch. 
Kaimu, the district where we then were, was over- 
flowed in the days of Arapai; but how many gene- 
rations it was since he reigned, we could not learn, 
as they were not agreed about it among themselves. 
They also repeated the account of the inundation of 
Kearaara, and the low land of Kapapala, five moons 
ago, and told us some of them had seen the large 
rock carried out into the sea, at Mahuka. Like the 
people of Kearakomo, they believed Kirauea to be 
the abode of supernatural beings. They recapitu- 
lated the contest between Pele and Tamepuaa, and 
related the adventures of several warriors, who, with 
spear in hand, had opposed the volcanic demons, 
when coming down on a torrent of lava. They 
could not believe, that we had been down into the 
crater, or broken off pieces of Pele's houses, until 
the specimens of lava, &c. were produced, when 
some of them looked very significantly, and none of 
them cared much to handle them. We tried to con- 
vince them of their mistake, in supposing Kirauea 
inhabited, and unfolded to them, in as simple a man- 
ner as possible, the nature of volcanoes, and of their 
various phenomena, assuring them, at the same time, 
that they were under the sovereign controul of Je- 
hovah, the only true God. Some said, Jie pake, 
(Yes perhaps;) others were silent. 

A considerable number were present at our evening 
worship, which we conducted in the native language. 

5th. After a very comfortable night's repose, we 
arose at day-break. At sunrise, the people assembled 
more numerously than they had done on the pre- 
14 



158 MARKS OP AN EARTHQUAKE. 

ceding evening. Mr. Ellis preached to them from 
these words, "Herein is love, not that we loved God, 
but that he loved us, and sent his Son to be a pro- 
pitiation for our sins." They appeared to listen with 
interest, and numbers sat down under the kou trees, 
talking among themselves on the subject for a con- 
siderable time after the services had closed. After 
breakfast, we walked through the district, entered 
several of the cottages, and talked with the people. 
We also examined the effects of an earthquake, ex- 
perienced here about two months back. We were 
informed, that it took place about 10 o'clock in the 
evening. The ground, after being agitated some 
minutes, with a violent tremulous motion, suddenly 
burst open for several miles in extent, in a direction 
from north-by-east to south-by-west, and emitted, 
in several places, at the same instant, a considerable 
quantity of smoke and luminous vapour, but none 
of the people were injured by it. A stone wall, 
four feet thick and six feet high, enclosing a garden 
at the north end of the village, was thrown down. 
A chasm, about a foot wide, marked distinctly its 
course. This was generally open, though in some 
places it seemed as if the earth had closed up again. 
We entered a house sixteen feet by twelve, in the 
inside, through which it had passed. Ten persons, 
viz. one man, six women, and three children, were 
asleep here, at the time it occurred. They were 
lying on both sides of the house, with their heads 
towards the centre; some of them very near the 
place where the ground was rent open. The trem- 
bling of the ground, they said, awoke them; but, 
before they could think what it was that disturbed 
them, the earth opened with a violent percussion; a 
quantity of sand and dust was thrown up with 
violence, and smoke and steam were at the same 
time emitted. After a short interval, a second per- 
cussion was felt, vapour again arose, and, at the op- 
posite end of the house to that in which they were 
lying, they saw a light blue flame, which almost in- 



MARKS OF AN EARTHQUAKE. 159 

stantly disappeared. We asked them if they were 
not alarmed. They said they were, at first, but after 
remaining awake sometime, and finding it did not 
come again, they laid down and slept till morning, 
when they filled up the fissure with grass and earth. 
We examined the aperture that still remained open 
at one end of the house, and found its sides perpen- 
dicular, and its breadth one foot and eleven inches. 
The north-west corner of the house was broken by 
the shock. We next traced its course through the 
fields of potatoes. In some places, the ground seem- 
ed hardly disturbed, yet it sank six or eight inches 
beneath our tread. At other places we saw apertures 
upwards of two feet wide. The potatoes, that were 
growing immediately in the direction of the fissure, 
were all spoiled. Several roots of considerable size 
were thrown out of the ground, and, according to 
the representation of the natives, appeared as if they 
had been scorched. At the south end of the village 
it had passed through a small well, in which origi- 
nally there was seldom more than eighteen inches 
depth of water, though, since that period, there has 
been upwards of three feet. The crack was about 
ten inches wide, running from north to south across 
the bottom of the well. The water has not only 
increased in quantity, but suffered a great deterioration 
in quality, being now very salt; and its rising and 
falling with the ebbing and flowing of the ti^de, indi- 
cates its connexion with the waters of the ocean, 
from which it is distant about 300 yards. 

Earthquakes are common over the whole island, 
though not so frequent in this vicinity, as in the 
northern and western parts. They are not generally 
violent, except when the} 7 immediately precede the 
eruption of a volcano. 

In the afternoon, Messrs. Thurston and Bishop 
walked over to Makena, a pleasant village about a 
mile to the southward of Kaimu, where they collect- 
ed about, one hundred people, to whom Mr. Thurston 
preached in one of their houses. The rain, which 



160 DESCRIPTION OF KAIMU. 

fell during most of the afternoon, prevented a nuni- 
ber from attending. 

Mr. Bishop numbered the houses of the village, 
and found them, including Makena, to be one hun- 
dred and forty-five. 

Kaimu is pleasantly situated near the sea shore, 
on the south-east side of the island, standing on a 
bed of lava considerably decomposed, and covered 
over with a light and fertile soil. It is adorned with 
plantations, groves of cocoa-nuts, and clumps of 
kou trees. It has a fine sandy beach, where canoes 
may land with safety; and, according to the houses 
numbered to-day, contains about 725 inhabitants. 
Including the villages in its immediate vicinity 
along the coast, the population would probably 
amount to 2,000. If water could be procured, it 
would form a very eligible missionary station. 
There are several w r ells in the village containing 
brackish water, which has percolated from the sea, 
through the cells of the lava, and is collected in 
hollows scooped out to receive it. The natives told 
us that, at the distance of about a mile, there was 
plenty of fresh water. The extent of cultivation in 
the neighbourhood, together with the decent and 
orderly appearance of the people, induce us to think 
they are more sober and industrious, than those of 
many villages through which we have passed. 

The rain continuing through the afternoon, pre- 
vented our preaching to the people ; but many, in- 
fluenced probably by motives of curiosity, collected 
in the house where we lodged, in conversation with 
whom we passed the evening. We also wrote a 
letter to the Governor, informing him of our pro- 
gress, the hospitality of the people in general, and 
the kind attention we had received from Mauae, 
who intended to return from this place to Kairua. 

6th. Mauae and his family united with us in our 
morning worship, after which we recommended 
him to improve the time he might spend here, in 
teaching his brothers and sisters to read and write > 



CONVERSATION WITH THE NATIVES. 161 

and in telling them of the true God, persuading 
them and the people of the place to refrain from 
labour and amusement on the Sabbath day. He 
promised to try what he could do, and when we had 
taken leave of the family, he walked a little way 
out of the village with us, pointed out the best road, 
then gave us his parting aroha, and returned to his 
house. After travelling nearly two hours, we ar- 
rived at Keouohana, where we sat down to rest be- 
neath the shade of some cocoa-nut trees. Makoa, 
our guide, spoke to the head-man, and he directed 
the people to collect together. About 100 soon 
assembled, and when we had explained to them in 
few words the object of our visit, we requested them 
to sit down, and listen to the tidings we had brought. 
They immediately obeyed. We sang a hymn in 
their language, after which an address was given 
them. As soon as it was finished, they began to 
talk about what they had heard. Some said it was 
very good ; they had never heard before of a God, 
/who had sent his Son to save men. Others said, it 
was very well for the haore (foreigners) to believe 
it; but Tane, Rono, Tanaroa, and Tu, were the gods 
of the Sandwich Islanders. Makoa, who was a chief 
speaker among them on such occasions, said they 
must all attend, must forsake thieving and drunken- 
ness, infanticide and murder, and do no work on 
the la tabu (day sacred ;) adding, at the same time, 
that the king had received the palapala, books, &c. 
and went to church on the sacred day, as did also 
Kuakini, the Governor. 

The head-man brought some ripe plantains, of 
which we ate a few, and then proceeded on our 
way, leaving them very busy in conversation about 
the news they had heard. After travelling a mile 
and a half along the shore, we came to Kehena. 
The village was populous, and the people seemed, 
from the number of their canoes, nets, &c. to be 
much engaged in fishing. Their contrivance for 

14* 



162 MANNER OF LANDING CANOES AT KEHENA. 

launching and landing their canoes, was curious and 
singular. 

The bold coast is formed of perpendicular, or 
over-hanging rocks, from 40 to 60 feet high, against 
which, this being the windward part of the island, 
the swell beats violently. In one place, where 
there were a few low rocks about 30 feet from the 
shore, they had erected a kind of ladder. Two long 
poles, one tied to the end of the other, reached from 
these rocks to the top of the cliffs. Two other poles, 
tied together in the same manner, were fixed parallel 
to the first two, and about four or five feet distant from 
them. Strong sticks, eight or ten feet long, were laid 
across these at right angles, and about two or three 
inches apart, which were fastened to the long poles 
by the ie, the tough fibrous roots of a climbing 
sort of plant, found in the woods, and thus formed 
the steps of this ingenious and useful ladder., The 
canoes of the place were small and light,seldom carry- 
ing more than oae man in each. A number were just 
landing, as we arrived at the place. Two men went 
down and stood close to the water's edge, on the 
leeward or southern side of the rock. The canoes 
were paddled up one at a time. The person in each 
then watching a convenient opportunity, rowed 
swiftly to shore, when the rolling billow carried the 
canoe upon a rock, and it was seized by two men, 
who stood ready to receive it. At the same instant 
that it was grasped on each side by the men on the 
rock, the one in the canoe, who steered it, jumped 
into the sea, swam to the shore, and helped them 
carry it up the ladder to the top of the cliff, where 
they placed it upon some curiously carved stools, 
and returned to the rocks to bring up another in the 
same manner. In this way five or six were brought 
up while we were looking at them. Mr. Ellis took 
a sketch of their useful contrivance. We then walked 
to the house of the head-man, which was large, and 
contained several families. A considerable number 
of people soon gathered round us, and when they had 



EVANGELICAL LABOURS. 163 

expressed their wishes to hear what we had to say, 
Mr. Ellis addressed them for about half an hour. 

Leaving Kehena, we walked on to Kamaiti, a 
pleasant village, standing on a gently sloping, ver- 
dant valley, and shaded by some large cocoa-nut 
trees. Here we stopped to take our breakfast, hav- 
ing travelled about four hours and a half. 

The hospitable inhabitants, at the request of our 
guide, soon brought us some fresh fish, a nice hog, 
and potatoes and taro, of which we made a good 
repast. The people, who were not employed on 
their plantations, or in fishing, were then assembled, 
and addressed from Psalm lxvii, 7. Considerable 
conversation followed, and they detained us some- 
time to answer their inquiries, or to explain more 
fully the things that had been spoken. After spend- 
ing about half an hour with 300 of them, in this 
manner, we took our leave, and pursued our jour- 
ney. Our path from Kaimu had been smooth and 
pleasant; but shortly after leaving Kamaili, we 
passed a very rugged tract of lava, nearly four miles 
across. The lava seemed as if, broken to pieces 
while cooling, it had continued to roll on like a 
stream of large scoria, or cinders. Our progress 
across it was slow and fatiguing. On our way, our 
guide pointed out Karepa, an ancient heiau, formerly 
dedicated to Tu and Rono, and built in the days of 
Teavemauhiri and Tanakini, kings of this part of 
the island. About half past one, we arrived at 
Opihikao, another populous village situated within 
a short distance of the sea. The head-man, Karai- 
koa, brought out a mat, spread it under the shade of 
a kou tree in front of his door, and invited us to 
sit down and rest, as the sun was vertical, and trav- 
elling laborious. We seated ourselves beside him, 
and so soon as he learned from Makoa the nature 
of our errand, he sent of his own accord, and col- 
lected the people to hear what we had to say to 
them. When they had assembled, we stood up and 
sung a hymn, after which one of our number 



164 EVANGELICAL LABOURS. 

preached to them from Job xxi, 15. The preacher 
was frequently interrupted by the natives, exclaim- 
ing, "Owau kahi e malama ia Jehova; e ake an i 
ova ia Jesu Kraist; (I am one that will serve the 
Lord; I desire to be saved by Jesus Christ.) 

We spent some time with them after the service 
was concluded, and then walked on two miles, prin- 
cipally through cultivated grounds, to Kauaea, 
where we stopped again. About 300 people, ex- 
cited probably by curiosity, soon collected around 
us, to whom Mr. Thurston preached. We after- 
wards sat down, and talked some time with them, 
and then resumed our walk through the district of 
Malama, the inland part of which was inundated by 
a volcanic eruption about 35 years since. The part 
over which we passed being nearer the sea, than 
that which the lava had overflowed, was covered 
with soil, and smiling with verdure. Near 5 P. M. 
we reached Keahialaka, the residence of Kinao, 
chief of Puna. We found him sick, and felt anxious 
to be serviceable to him; yet we did not like, at so 
early an hour, to halt for the night. We therefore 
divided our party; Mr. Ellis to stop with the sick 
chief, and Messrs. Thurston and Bishop to go on 
to a village at the east point, about two miles dis- 
tant. When they reached Pualaa, the above-men- 
tioned village, they were kindly welcomed by the 
head man, who soon had the people of the place 
collected at their request, and to them Mr. Thurs- 
ton proclaimed the news of salvation through Jesus 
Christ. The chief furnished the travellers with a 
hospitable supper, and comfortable lodgings. 

Just before the setting of the sun, Mr. Ellis 
preached to the people at the village where he 
stopped, and spent the evening with the chief, who 
was afflicted with a pulmonary complaint, and was 
almost reduced to a skeleton, earnestly recommend- 
ing him to fly to Jesus, the great Physician of souls. 
He seemed at first much attached to the supersti- 
tions of his ancestors; said he had performed every 



EVANGELICAL LABOURS. 165 

ceremony that he thought likely to be of any avail, 
and would do any thing to live: but added, "Emake 
paha auanei" (perhaps I must soon die.) The 
love of the Saviour, and his suitableness to the case 
of the poor chief, were repeatedly pointed out, and 
he was requested rather to seek unto Him, for the 
salvation of his soul, than to priests and incantations 
of sorcerers, for the prolongation of his mortal life, 
which, although of infinitely less moment than the 
well-being of his soul, was yet entirely beyond their 
power. He listened attentively, and, at a late hour, 
requested Mr. Ellis to pray for him to Jesus Christ. 
The family collected during the time of prayer, at 
the close of which the chief lay down on his mat, 
but said he could not sleep. 

We were fatigued with the labours of the day, 
though we had not travelled so far as usual. The 
country had been much more populous, than any we 
had passed since leaving Kona, and we felt thankful 
for the opportunities, that we had this day enjoyed, of 
speaking to so many, respecting those things which 
concern their everlasting peace. May the Holy 
Spirit water the seed this day sown. 

7th. Messrs, Thurston and Bishop conducted 
morning worship with the people, who, at an early 
hour, crowded the house where we had lodged. 
And Mr. Ellis, having spent some time in endeav- 
oring to inform the dark mind of the dying chief, 
on points of the last importance, again directed him 
to that compassionate Saviour, who invites all to 
come to him, relieves even those who apply at the 
eleventh hour, and is able to save to the uttermost 
those who trust in his mercy; after which he prayed 
with him, and his family, and then joined Messrs. 
Bishop and Thurston at Pualaa, where we took our 
breakfast. 

We spent the forenoon in conversation with the 
people of the place. Two or three old men, who, 
we afterwards learned, were priests, seemed to dis- 



166 CONVERSATION WITH NATIVES. 

pute what we said about Jehovah's being the only- 
true God, and the Christian the only true religion. 

They said they thought their tao (tradition) re- 
specting Tu, Tanaroa, Rono, or Orono, and Tairi, 
were as authentic as the accounts in our book, 
though ours, from the circumstance of their being 
written, or as they expressed it, "hana pa ia i ka 
palapala" (made fast on the paper,) were better 
preserved, and more akaaka, (clear, or generally 
intelligible.) To this we replied at some length; 
after which the old men ceased to object, but con- 
tinued to withhold their assent. Numbers sat 
around, and seemed interested in the discussion. 
We continued talking to them on the subject of 
their traditions, one of which we wrote down as 
they repeated it. 

About half past eleven, we took leave of them, 
and directed our way across the eastern point A 
most beautiful and romantic landscape presented 
itself on our left as we travelled out of Pualaa. The 
lava was covered with a tolerably thick layer of 
soil, and the verdant plain, extending several miles 
towards the foot of the mountains, was agreeably 
diversified by groups of picturesque hills, originally 
craters, but now clothed with grass, and ornamented 
with clumps of trees. The natives informed us, 
that three of these groups, Honuaura, Malama, and 
Mariu, being contiguous, and joined at their base, 
arrested the progress of an immense torrent of lava 
which, in the days of Taraiopu, the friend of Captain 
Cook, inundated all the country beyond them. We 
soon left this cheerful scenery, and entered a rugged 
tract of lava, over which we continued our way till 
about 2 P. M., when we reached Kapoho. A cluster, 
apparently of hills, three or four miles round, and as 
many hundred feet high, with deep indented sides, 
overhung with trees, and clothed with herbage, stand- 
ing in the midst of a barren plain of lava, attracted our 
attention. We walked through the gardens that encir- 
cled its base, till we reached the south-east side, where 
it was considerably lower than on the northern parts. 



A BEAUTIFUL VALLEY. 167 

Here we ascended what appeared to us to be one of 
the hills, and, on reaching the summit, were agree- 
ably surprised to behold a charming valley opening 
before us. It was circular, and open towards the 
sea. The outer boundary of this natural amphithe- 
atre was formed by an uneven ridge of rocks cov- 
ered with soil and vegetation. Within these was a 
smaller circle of hills equally verdant, and orna- 
mented with trees. The sides of the valley, which 
gradually sloped from the foot of hills, were almost 
entirely laid out in plantations, and enlivened by the 
cottages of their proprietors. In the centre was an 
oval hollow, about half a mile across, and probably 
two hundred feet deep, at the bottom of which was 
a beautiful lake of brackish water, whose margin 
was in a high state of cultivation, planted with taro, 
bananas, and sugar-cane. The steep, perpendicular 
rocks, forming the sides of the hollow, were adorned 
with tufts of grass, or blooming, pendulous plants; 
while, along the narrow and verdant border of the 
lake at the bottom, the bread-fruit, the kukui, and 
the ohia trees, appeared, with now and then a lowly 
native hut standing beneath their shade. We 
walked to the upper edge of the rocks, that form the 
side of the hollow, where we viewed with pleasure 
this singularly beautiful scene. The placid surface 
of the lake, disturbed only by the boys and girls, 
diving and sporting in its waters; the serpentine 
walks among the luxuriant gardens along its margin; 
the tranquil occupations of the inhabitants, some 
weaving mats, others walking cheerfully up and 
down the winding paths among the steep rocks; the 
sound of the cloth-beating mallet, from several di- 
rections; and the smiling gaiety of the whole; con- 
trasted strongly with the panorama we had recently 
beheld at Kirauea. Yet we felt persuaded, that this 
now cheerful spot had once presented a similar spec- 
tacle, less extended perhaps, but equally appalling. 

The traditions of the people informed us, that the 
valley itself was originally a crater, the indented 
rocks along the outer ridge forming its rim, and 



16S STORY OF KAHAVARI. 

the opening towards the sea its mouth. But had 
tradition been silent, the volcanic nature of the 
rocks, the structure of the large basin, in which we 
were standing, and the deep hollow in the centre, 
which we were viewing, would have carried con- 
viction to every beholder, that it had once been the 
seat of volcanic fires. We asked several natives of the 
place, if they had any account of the king, in whose 
reign it had burned, or if they knew any songs, or 
traditions, in which it was stated how many kings 
had reigned in Hawaii, or how many chiefs had 
governed Puna, either since it first broke out, or 
since it became extinct; but they could give us no 
information on these subjects. They told us the 
name of the place was Kapoho, (the sunken in,) and 
of the lake Ka wai a Pele^ (the water of Pele;) and 
that it was one of the places, from which the vol- 
canic goddess threw rocks and lava after Kahavarh 
The saltness of the water in the extinguished vol- 
cano, proves the connexion of the lake with the sea, 
from which it was about a mile distant; but we 
could not learn that it was at all affected by the ris- 
ing or failing of the tides. 

Mr. Thurston entered into conversation with the 
people standing by, while Mr. Ellis took a sketch 
of the valley. About 3 o'clock we resumed our 
journey, and sooned reached Kula, a romantic spot 
where Kahavari took leave of his sister. The hill 
on which he was sliding when he incurred the dis- 
pleasure of the terrible goddess, and the spot where he 
rested and first saw her pursuing him, were visible. 

The traditionary story of his encounter with 
Pele, is so interesting, that we think we shall be 
pardoned for inserting it. 

In the reign of Keariikuku, an ancient king of 
Hawaii, Kahavari, chief of Puna, and one of his 
Punahele (favourite companions,) went one day to 
amuse themselves at the horua* on the sloping side 

* The horua has, for many generations, been a popular amusement throughout 
the Sandwich Islands, and is still practised in several places. It consists in sliding 



STORY OF KAHAVARI. 169 

of a hill, which is still called ka horn a ana o 
Kahavari (the sliding place of Kahavari.) Vast 
numbers of the people collected at the bottom of the 
hill to witness the game; and a company of music- 
ians and dancers repaired to the spot to add to the 
amusement of the spectators. 

The buskined youths had begun their dance, and, 
amidst the sound of ihe drums and the songs of the 
musicians, the horua commenced between Kahavari 
and his favourite. Pele, the goddess of the volcano, 
came down from Kirauea to witness the sport. She 
stood on the top of a hill, in the form of a woman, 
and challenged Kahavari to slide with her. He 
accepted the offer, and they set off together down 
the hill Pele, less acquainted with the art of bal- 
ancing herself on the narrow sledge than her rival, 
was beaten, and Kahavari was applauded by the 
spectators as he walked back up the sides of the 
hill. Before they started again, Pele asked him to 
give her his papa. He, supposing from her appear- 
ance, that she was no more than a common woman, 
said "Jiore" (No;) "are you my wife that you 
should obtain my sledge?" and as if impatient at 
being delayed, adjusted his papa, ran a few yards 
to take a spring, and then, 'with all his strength, 
threw himself upon it, and shot down the hill. 
Pele, incensed at his answer, stamped on the ground, 

down a hill on a narrow sledge; and those, who, by strength or skill in balancing 
th< mselves slide farthest, are considered victorious. The papa, or sled, is composed 
of two narrow runners, from seven to twelve or eighteen feet long, two or three 
inches deep, highly polished, and, at the foremost end, tapering off from the under 
side to a point at the upper edge. These two runners are fastened together by a 
number of short pieces of wood laid horizontally across. To the upper edge of 
these short pieces two long tough sticks are fastened, extending the whoie length of 
the cross pieces, and abeut five or six Laches apart. Sometimes a narrow piece of 
mat is fastened over the whole upper surface, except three or four feet, at the fore- 
most end, though in general only a small part, for the breast to rest on, is covered. 
At the foremost end there is a space of about two inches between the runners, but 
they widen gradually towards the hinder pan. where they are distant from each 
other four or five inches. The person about to slide, grasps the small side-stick 
firmly with his right hand somewhere about the middle, runs a few yards to the 
brow'of the hill, or starting place, where he grasps it with his left hand, and, at the 
same time, s\ ith all his strength, throwing himself forwai d, falls flat upon it, and slides 
down the hill, his hands retaining then hold of the side-sticks, and his feet being 
fixed against the hindermost cross-piece of the sled. Much practice and address is 
necessary to assume and keep an even balance on so narrow a vehicle; yet a man 
accustomed to the sport, will throw himself with velocity and apparent ease 150 or 
200 yards down the side of a gradually sloping hill. 

15 



170 STORY OF KAHAVARI. 

and an earthquake followed, which rent the hill in 
sunder. She called, and fire and liquid lava arose, 
and assuming her supernatural form, with these irre- 
sistible ministers of vengeance she followed down 
the hill. When Kahavari reached the bottom of the 
hill, he saw Pele, accompanied by thunder and 
lightning, earthquake and streams of burning lava, 
closely pursuing him. He took up his broad spear, 
which he had stuck in the ground at the beginning 
of the game, and, accompanied by his friend., fled 
for his life. The musicians, dancers, and crowds of 
spectators, were instantly buried beneath the fiery 
torrent, which, bearing on its foremost wave the 
enraged goddess, continued to pursue Kahavari and 
his friend. They ran till they came to an eminence 
called Buukea. Here Kahavari threw off his tuirai, 
cloak of netted ti leaves, and proceeded towards his 
house, which stood near the shore. He met his 
favourite hog, Aroipuaa, saluted him by touching 
noses, and ran to the house of his mother, who lived 
at Kukii, saluted her by touching noses, and said, 
"rftroha ino oe; eia ihonei pa ha oe e make at; ke 
at mainei Pele; (Compassion great to you; close 
here, perhaps, is your death; Pele comes devour- 
ing.) Leaving her, he met his wife, Kanaka wahine. 
He saluted her. The burning torrent approached, 
and she said, "Stay with me here, and let us die 
together." He said, "No, I go, I go." He then 
saluted his two children, Paupouru and Kaohe, and 
said, Ke ue net au ia orua" (I grieve for you two.) 
The lava rolled near, and he ran till a deep chasm 
arrested his progress. He laid down his spear, 
and on it walked safely over. His friend called 
out for his help. He held out his spear over the 
chasm; his companion took hold of it; and he drew 
him securely over. By this time, Pele was coming 
down the chasm with accelerated motion. He ran 
till he reached the place where we were sitting. 
Here he met his sister, Koae, but had only time to 
say "aroha oe" (alas for you!) and then ran on to 



STORY OF KAHAVARI. 171 

the sea-shore. His younger brother had just landed 
from his fishing canoe, and had run up to his house 
to provide for the safety of his family, when Kaha- 
vari arrived. He and his friend leaped into it, and 
with his broad spear paddled out to sea. Pele, per- 
ceiving he had escaped, ran to the shore, and hurled 
with prodigious force huge stones and fragments of 
rocks after him, which fell thickly around, but did 
not strike his canoe. When they had paddled a 
short distance from the shore, the kumukahi (east 
wind) sprung up. He fixed his broad spear upright 
in the canoe, which answering the double purpose 
of mast and sail, he soon reached the island of Maui. 
Here they rested one night, and proceeded to Ranai. 
On the day following he removed to Morokai, and 
from thence to Oahu the abode of Koronohairaau^ 
his father, and Kanewahineheaho, his sister, to whom 
he related his disastrous perils, and with whom he 
took up his permanent abode. 

The above simple tale is a tolerable specimen of 
many of their traditions, though it is among the 
least marvellous of the many fabulous stories we 
have met with; and in it we think truth and fiction 
may easily be separated. A sudden and unexpected 
eruption of a volcano, when a chief and his people 
were playing at horaa, is probably its only founda* 
tion. The natives pointed out a number of rocks m 
the sea, which they said were thrown by Pele to 
sink the canoe in which Kahavari escaped. 

After travelling a short distance, we saw the bu o 
Kahavari (hill of Kahavari,) the place where he 
stopped, after sliding down hill, and perceived the 
goddess pursuing him. It was a black, frowning crater 
about 100 feet high, with a deep gap in its rim -on 
the eastern side, from which the course of the current 
of lava could be very distinctly traced. Our way now 
lay over a rugged tract of country. Sometimes, for 
a mile or two, we were obliged to walk along on 
the top of a wall four feet high, and about three feet 
wide, formed of the large fragments of lava that had 



172 INCIDENTS ON THE WAY. 

been collected from the surface of the enclosures? 
which these walls surrounded. We were, however, 
cheered with a beautiful prospect; for the land, 
which rose gradually towards the mountains a few 
miles to the westward of us, presented an almost 
enchanting appearance. The plain was covered 
with verdure, and, as we advanced, a woody emi- 
nence, probably some ancient crater, frequently arose 
from the gently undulated surface, while groups of 
hills, clothed with trees of various foliage, agreeably 
diversified the scene. The shore, which was about 
a mile to the eastward of us, was occasionally lined 
with the spiral pandanus, the waving cocoa nut 
grove, or the clustering huts of the natives. At 
half past four we reached Kahuwaii, where we sat 
down, and took some refreshment, while Makoa 
collected the people of the place together. About 
150 assembled round the door, and Mr. Ellis 
preached to them. After conversing some time, we 
walked on, in an inland direction, to Honoruru, a 
small village situated in the midst of a wood, where 
we arrived just at the setting of the sun. 

Whilst the kind people at the house where we 
put up were preparing our supper, we sent and in- 
vited the people of the next village to come and 
hear the word we had to speak to them. They 
soon arrived, the large house in which we had taken 
up our lodgings was filled, and a discourse was 
delivered from John xii, 46; / am come a light 
into the world, &c. Soon after the service was 
ended, they brought us a baked pig, and some taro 
and potatoes for supper. We afterwards spent an 
hour in conversation with them, conducted our 
evening prayers in the native language, and then lay 
down to rest. 

8th. We arose early, and Mr. Thurston con- 
ducted morning worship with the friendly people 
of the place. Mr. Ellis was considerably indis- 
posed. However, soon after 6 A. M. we left Hon- 
oruru, and travelling slowly towards the sea-shore, 



INCIDENTS ON THE WAY. 173 

reached Waiakaheula, where Mr. E. was obliged to 
stop, and lie down under the shade of a canoe house 
near the shore. Messrs. Thurston and Bishop 
walked up to the settlement, about half a mile in- 
land, where the former preached to the people. 

We had seen the eastern division of Hiro yester- 
day afternoon, and Mr. Bishop hoping to reach 
Waiakea in a few hours, left Mr. Thurston and the 
natives with Mr. Ellis, and proceeded thither. He 
was much deceived as to the distance; for it was 
3 o'clock in the afternoon when he arrived at Kaau, 
where the natives tried to persuade him to stay till 
morning, as they did not think he could reach 
Waiakea before night. However, he kept on with 
increased speed, in hopes of getting at least a sight 
of Waiakea before dark. But in this he was dis- 
appointed, for the sun sunk behind Mauna Kea, and 
darkness overshadowed the landscape, before he had 
passed the wilderness of pandanas, that stretched 
along the eastern shore, between Kaau and Hiro. 
He began to think of stopping for the night beneath 
the shelter of the surrounding bushes; but the path 
becoming more beaten indicated his approach to a 
village. Encouraged by this, he pursued his way, 
and, about nine o'clock in the evening, reached 
Waiakea, and entered the house of Maaro, where he 
found Messrs. Goodrich and Harwood, by whom he 
was gladlv welcomed. 

Mr. Ellis by noon was able to proceed with Mr, 
Thurston. The country was populous, but the 
houses stood singly, or in small clusters, generally 
on the plantations, which were scattered over the 
whole country. Grass and herbage were abundant, 
vegetation in many places luxuriant, and the soil, 
though shalknv, was light and fertile. 

Soon after 5 P. M., they reached Kaau, the last 
village in the division of Puna. It was extensive 
and populous, abounding with well cultivated plan- 
tations of taro, sweet potatoes, and sugar-cane, and 
probably owes its fertility to a fine rapid stream, 
15* 



174 INCIDENTS ON THE WAY. 

which, descending from the mountains, runs through 
it into the sea. It was the second stream they hat! 
seen on the island. Having quenched their thirst, 
they passed over it by stepping on some large 
stones, and directed their way to the house of the 
head-man, where they put up for the night. He 
was absent in the mountain with most of his people, 
so that Makoa could procure them no provisions. 
They however succeeded in purchasing a fowl and 
some potatoes. While their boys were preparing 
their supper, Mr. Thurston preached to a considera- 
ble number of people, who had collected outside of 
the house; after which they conducted evening wor- 
ship w T ith the family, who at night furnished them 
with a clean and comfortable mat for their bed, an 
accommodation which they did not always enjoy. 

9th. The house was early crowded with natives, 
and, a little before sun-rise, morning worship was 
conducted as usual. 

Some of the people observed in conversation, 
"We shall never obtain the things of which you 
have told us, for we are a wicked and unbelieving 
people. " Shortly after the conclusion of the wor- 
ship, the people offered for sale some curious, deep, 
oval baskets, with covers, made of the fibrous 
roots of it- The travellers purchased two, intending 
to send them home as specimens of native ingenuity. 

Leaving the village of Kaau, they resumed their 
journey, and after walking between two and three 
hours, stopped in the midst of a thicket to rest and 
prepare breakfast. The natives produced fire by 
rubbing two dry sticks together, and having sus- 
pended over it a small iron pot, in gipsy style upon 
three sticks, soon prepared their food. 

At half past ten, they resumed their walk, and 
passing about two miles through a wood of pretty 
large timber, came to the open country in the vicin- 
ity of Waiakea. At 1 P. M. they reached the house 
of the chief, where they were welcomed by Mr. 
Goodrich, Messrs. Harwood and Bishop being 



AT WAIAKEA. 175 

absent examining the western part of the district. 
Maaro, the chief, was very ill, yet he was glad to 
see them. As our party was now all together, and 
intended to spend some days in his district, we 
applied to him for lodgings, and he directed one of 
his men to conduct us to a house by the sea-side, 
where he said we could be accommodated as long as 
we should find it necessary or agreeable to stay. 
We removed into it, and employed the afternoon in 
narrating the incidents of our respective journeys, 
and preparing for the coming Sabbath. 

It was exactly a week since Messrs. Goodrich and 
Harwood had parted from their companions at Ki- 
rauea, the great volcano, They had travelled over 
a pleasant, and not uneven country, well wooded, 
and abounding with ohelos and strawberries, till they 
reached the inland district of Ora. They purchased 
a hog and vegetables of the people, and had the hog 
dressed that evening. The next day was the Sab- 
bath. Mr. Goodrich was unable to preach in the 
native language. The people of the place, however, 
were induced to abstain from work on that day.* 

They arrived at Waiakea on Wednesday evening; 
and ever since had been hospitably entertained by 
Maaro, the chief. 

In the evening, many natives, attracted by curi- 
osity, came to our house. We conversed some time 
with them, and when they went away, invited them 
to attend public worship on the morrow. 

* About six months afterwards, Messrs. Ellis, Ely, Chamberlain, and Dr. Blatchely 
passed through Ora, on their way to the volcano, when Mr. Ellis preached to the 
people, not only at this place, but also at the several places where they stopped both 
in going and returning. Frequent and interesting conversations were held, which 
were often continued from sunset till nearly daylight. As might be expected, the 
people were deplorably ignorant, but seemed as much interested in the truth as any 
we had met with. At one place where the salvation of the soul and life eternal through 
Jesus Christ, was the topic, they said, "Our fathers, from time immemorial, and we, 
ever since we can recollect any thing, have been seeking the ora roa (enduring life^) 
or a state in which we should not die; but we have never found it; yet perhaps this 
is it, of which you are telling us." 



176 A PRIESTESS OF PELE. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

Public worship at Waiakea. — Conversation with 
a priestes? of Pele. — Opinion of natives at 
Waiakea respecting the permanent residence 
of the missionaries there. — Former customs on 
Wairuku river, — Waiakea bay. — Voyage to 
Laupahoehoe, — Description of a double canoe. 
— Temple of Pele. — Journey across the moun- 
tains to Towaihae. 

Dense fogs and heavy rains are more frequent at 
Waiakea, and over the whole division of Hiro, than 
in any other part of the island. We were there- 
fore, not surprised at beholding the district and coast 
enveloped in mist, and experiencing frequent show- 
ers of rain through the earlier part of the day. Be- 
tween 9 and 10 in the forenoon, however, the fog 
cleared off, and the sun shone brightly on the glow- 
ing landscape. 

Shortly after 10 o'clock, the chiefs and people, in 
considerable numbers, assembled in a large house 
adjacent to that in which we resided, agreeably to 
the invitation of the last evening. Mr. Ellis 
preached from this text, "Happy is that people 
whose God is the Lord." The attention was not so 
good as that generally given by the congregations 
we had addressed. Many, however, quietly lis- 
tened till the service w r as over. As we arose to 
depart, an old woman, who, during the discourse, 
sat near the speaker, and had listened very atten- 
tively, all at once exclaimed, "Powerful are the gods 
of Hawaii, and great is Pele, the goddess of Hawaii; 
she shall save Maaro," (the sick chief, w T ho was 
present.) Another began to cantillate a song in 
praise of Pele, to which the people generally lis- 
tened, though some began to laugh. We supposed 
they were intoxicated, and therefore took no notice 



A PRIESTESS OF PELE. 177 

of them. But on our leaving the house, some of our 
people told us they were not ona i karrrma, (drunk 
with the rum,) but inspired by the akua, goddess 
of the volcano; or that one of them was Pele herself 
in the form of one of her priestesses. On hearing 
this, Mr. Ellis turned back into the house, and when 
the song was ended, immediately entered into con- 
versation with the principal one, by asking her, if 
she had attended to the discourse, that had been de- 
livered there. She answered that she had listened, 
and understood it. Mr. Ellis then asked, if she 
thought Jehovah was good, and those happy, who 
made him their God. She answered, "He is your 
good God, (or best God,) and it is right that you 
should worship him; but Pele is my god, and the 
great god of Hawaii, Kirauea is the place of her 
abode. Ohiaotelani (the northern peak of the vol- 
cano,) is one corner of her house. From the land 
beyond the sky, in former times, she came." She 
then went on with a song which she had thus began, 
giving a long account of the deeds and honours of 
Pele. This she pronounced in such a rapid and 
vociferous manner, accompanied by such violent 
gestures, that only here and there a word coulJ be 
understood. Indeed, towards the close, she appear- 
ed to lose all command of herself. When she had 
finished, Mr. Ellis told her she was mistaken in 
supposing any supernatural being resided in the vol- 
cano; that Pele was a creature of their own inven- 
tion, and existed only in the imaginations of her 
kahu, or devotees; adding, that volcanoes, and all 
their accompanying phenomena, were under the 
powerful controul of Jehovah, who, though uncreated 
himself, was the Creator and Supporter of heaven 
and earth, and every thing she beheld. She replied, 
that it was not so. She did not dispute that Jeho- 
vah was a God, but that he was not the only God. 
Pele was a god, and dw r elt in her, and through her 
would heal the sick chief then present. She wished 
him restored, and therefore came to visit him. Mr, 



178 A PRIESTESS OP PELE. 

Ellis said he too wished Maaro to recover; but if he 
did recover, it would be by the favour of Jehovah, 
and that he hoped he would acknowledge him, and 
seek to him alone, as he was the only true Physician, 
who could save both body and soul, making the 
latter happy in another world, when this world, with 
all its volcanoes, mountains, and oceans, should 
cease to exist. 

He then advised her, and all present, to forsake 
their imaginary deity, whose character was distin- 
guished by all that was revengeful and destructive, 
and accept the offers Jehovah had made them by his 
servants, that they might be happy here, and escape 
that everlasting death that would overtake all the 
idolatrous and wicked. 

Assuming a haughty air, she said "I am Pele, I 
shall never die. And those who follow me, when 
they die, if part of their bones be taken to Kirauea, 
will live with me in the bright fires there." Mr. 
Ellis said, "Are you Pele?" She replied, "Yes;" 
and was proceeding to state her powers, &c when 
Makoa, who had till now stood silent, interrupted 
her, and said, "It is true you are Pele, or some of 
Pele's party. And it is you that have destroyed the 
king's land, devoured his people, and spoiled the 
fishing grounds. Ever since you came to the island, 
you have been busied in mischief. You spoiled the 
greater part of the island, shook it to pieces, or curs- 
ed it with barrenness by inundating it with lava. 
You never did it any good. And if I were the 
king, I would either throw you all into the sea, or 
banish you from the islands. Hawaii would be 
quiet, if you were away." 

This was rather unexpected, and seemed to sur- 
prise several of the company. However the pre- 
tended Pele said, "Formerly we did overflow some 
of the land; but it was only the land of those who 
were rebels, or were very wicked people. Now we 
abide quietly in Kirauea." She then added, "It 
cannot be said, that, in these days, we destroy the 



A PRIESTESS OF PELE. 179 

king's people/' She then mentioned the names of 
several chiefs, and asked, "Who destroyed these? 
Not Pele, but the rum of the foreigners, whose God 
you are so fond of. Their diseases and their rum 
have destroyed more of the king's men, than all the 
volcanoes on the island." Mr. Ellis told her, he 
was sorry that their intercourse with foreigners 
should have introduced among them diseases, to 
which they were strangers before, and that he hoped 
they would also receive the advantages of Christian 
instruction and civilization, which the benevolent in 
those countries, by which they had been injured, 
were now so anxious to impart; that intoxication was 
wholly forbidden by Jehovah, the God of Christians, 
who had declared that no drunkard should enter the 
kingdom of heaven. He then told her, he was sor- 
ry to see her so deceived, and attempting to deceive 
others. Or, if she knew her pretensions were false, 
he recommended her to consider seriously the con- 
sequences of idolatry, and cease to deceive others; 
to recollect that she would one day die; that God 
had given her opportunity of hearing his love to 
sinners in the gift of his Son ; and that, if she ap- 
plied to him for mercy, although now an idolatrous 
priestess, she might be saved; but if she did not, a 
fearful doom awaited her u \ shall not die," she 
exclaimed, "bul or a no" (live spontaneously.) Af- 
ter replying to this, Mr. Ellis retired ; but the 
spectators, who had manifested by their counte- 
nances, thts they were not uninterested in the dis- 
cussion, continued in very earnest conversation for 
some time. 

The name of the priestess, we afterwards learned, 
was Oani. She resided in a neighbouring village, 
and had, that morning, arrived at Waiakea, on a 
visit to Maaro. 

A number of people, as they left the place of 
public worship came to our house, and talked some 
time on the blessedness of those, who worship and 
obey Jehovah. They said it was very good, and \{ 



ISO EVANGELICAL LABOURS 

the king were to come, or send them word, they 
would build a house for a missionary, a school-house, 
and chapel, and also observe the Sabbath day. 

In the afternoon, Mr. Thurston preached at the 
same place to an attentive congregation. Mr. Ellis, 
accompanied by Mr. Bishop, walked over to Pona- 
hawai, where Makoa collected upwards of one hun- 
dred people at the head-man's house, to whom Mr. 
Ellis preached from Romans x, 3; "Whosoever shall 
call upon the name of the Lord, shall be saved." The 
whole assembly gave good attention, frequently in- 
terrupting the speaker by their exclamations. A 
grey-headed man, who sat near the door, listened 
with apparent interest during the whole service, and 
when, towards the close, it was stated, that those, 
who in faith called on the Lord would, in another 
world, obtain everlasting life, he exclaimed, "My 
days are almost ended. That cannot be for me. 
Can an old man live forever?" He was told that 
Jesus was willing to save the souls of all who hum- 
bly and sincerely come to him, both old and young, 
and that he would give eternal life to as many as 
believed on his name. When the exercises had 
ended, they congratulated each other on the news 
they had heard, said it was good, and added, "Let 
us all attend to it. Who is there that does not de- 
sire eternal life in the other world?" They after- 
wards made many inquiries about the Sabbath day, 
prayer, &c. and asked if they should not be visited 
again. Messrs Bishop and Ellis told them it was 
probable that teachers would come and reside per- 
manently among them. On their way home, the 
missionaries called on Maaro, whom they found very 
ill. One of his children was also sick, and seemed 
near dying. They regretted that they had no suit- 
able medicine to administer either to the suffering 
chief, or his child. 

llth. The morning was cloudy with rain, which 
did not clear off till about 10 A. M. The greater 
part of the day we employed in examining the 



CONVERSATION WITH THE NATIVES. 181 

district and harbour. We were highly gratified 
with the fertility of the soil, and the luxuriance of 
the vegetation. In the afternoon, we waited on 
Maaro, the chief, to ask his opinion respecting the 
missionaries settling permanently in his neighbour- 
hood. He said, perhaps it would be well; that if 
the king and chiefs approved of it, he should desire 
it. We asked him if he would protect and patron- 
ize missionaries and their families, provided the 
king and chief approved of their settling at Waia- 
kea. He answered, "Yes certainly;" and at the 
same time pointed out several places where they 
might build their houses. We told him that the 
king, Karaimoku, Kaahumanu, and the governor, 
approved of instructors coming to teach the people of 
Waiakea. but that we were also desirous to obtain his 
opinion before any arrangements were made for the 
removal of the missionaries from Oahu. He again 
repeated, that he thought it would be a good thing, 
and that if the missionaries came with the approba- 
tion of the king and chiefs, he should be glad to wit- 
ness their arrival. We then took leave of Maaro 
and the chiefs that were with him. Messrs. Thurs- 
ton and Bishop walked to the opposite side of the 
bay, where Mr. Ellis had preached yesterday, and 
Mr. Thurston preached to an attentive congregation 
of about 60 people. The head-man afterwards ex- 
pressed a strong desire to be instructed, and said all 
the people would like to learn the palapala, and keep 
the Sabbath day. 

While these were on the western shore, Mr. Ellis 
visited several houses on the eastern side, and enter- 
ed into conversation with the people on the subject 
of missionaries coming to reside among them. In 
general they approved, saying they had dark minds 
needing instruction. Some, however, who seemed 
to doubt the propriety of foreigners coming to reside 
permanently among them, said they had heard that 
in several countries where foreigners had intermin- 
gled with the original natives, the latter had soon 
16 



182 TENDENCY OP MISSIONARY OPERATIONS. 

disappeared, and should missionaries come to live at 
Waiakea, perhaps the land would ultimately become 
theirs, and the kanaka maore (natives) cease to be its 
occupiers. Mr. Ellis told them, that the residence of 
missionaries among them, so far from producing such 
a result, was especially designed, and eminently calcu- 
lated, to prevent a consequence so melancholy. Their 
sanguinary wars, he continued, their extensive and 
cruel practice of infanticide, their frequent intoxica- 
tion, and their numerous diseases, partly gendered by 
vicious habits, had, according to their own account, 
diminished the population of the island three fourths, 
within the last forty years; and from the destructive 
operation of these causes, there was every reason to 
fear the Hawaiian people would soon be annihilated, 
unless some antidote was found, some powerful bar- 
rier opposed, to their depopulating effects. There 
was none, he added, so strong, as the moral restraints 
of Christianity, none so efficacious, as instruction 
and civilization, and above all the principles and 
doctrines of the Bible, which they could not become 
acquainted with, but by the residence of missiona- 
ries among them. Such, he informed them, was the 
opinion of the patrons of missions, who, anxious to 
ameliorate their wretchedness, preserve from obliv- 
ion the remnant of the people, place them among 
the nations of the earth, and direct them to the en- 
joyment of civilized life, and the participation of 
immortality and happiness in another world, had 
sent them the word of God, and missionaries to un- 
fold to them, in their own language, its divine and 
invaluable truths. At the close of his interview, 
some again repeated that it would be a good thing 
for missionaries to come; others said, perhaps it 
Would, perhaps not. 

12th. Having been informed by our guide, that trav- 
elling along the coast to the northward, would be tedi- 
ous and difficult, on account of numerous deep ravines 
that intersect the whole extent of Hiro and Kamakau, 
i\ seemed desirable to take a canoe as far as Laupa- 



CUSTOMS ON THE RIVER WAIRUKU. 183 

hoehoe, by which we should avoid some of the most 
difficult parts of the coast. As soon as the rain had 
ceased, and the fog cleared off, Mr. Ellis wait- 
ed on Maaro to inquire if he could furnish him 
with one. The chief said, he had not a double ca- 
noe at his command, or he would cheerfully provide 
one. Mr. Ellis therefore walked on to Pueo, on 
the western shore, where, for six dollars, he hired 
one of Kapapa, chief of the place, to take them be- 
tween twenty and twenty-five miles. 

Returning from Pueo, Mr. Ellis visited Wairuku, 
a beautiful stream of water flowing rapidly over a 
rocky bed, with frequent falls, and many places eli- 
gible for the erection of water-mills of almost any 
description. Makoa and the natives pointed out a 
square rock in the middle of the stream, on which, 
during the reign of Tamehameha, and of former kings, 
a toll used to be paid by every traveller who passed 
over the river. Whenever any one approached the 
stream, he stood on the brink, and called to the col- 
lector of the toll, who resided on the opposite side* 
He came with a broad piece of board, which he 
placed on the rock above mentioned. Whatever 
articles had been brought for the toll, were then 
deposited on the board, and, if satisfactory, the per- 
son was allowed to pass over. It did not appear 
that any uniform toll was required, the amount or 
value being generally left to the collector. The na- 
tives said, it was principally regulated by the rank 
or number of those who passed over. In order the 
better to accommodate passengers, all kinds of per- 
manently valuable articles were received. Some paid 
in native tapa, and mats or baskets, others paid a 
hog, a dog, some fowls, a roll of tobacco, or a quan- 
tity of dried salt fish. 

The river Wairuku was also distinguished by 
the markets, or fairs, held at stated intervals on its 
banks. At those times, the people of Puna and the 
desolate shores of Kau, even from the south point 



184 CUSTOMS ON THE RIVER WAIRTJKTT. 

of the island, brought mats, mamake* tapa, and 
vast quantities of dried salt fish, which was arrang- 
ed along on the south side of the ravine. The 
people of Hiro and Hamakua, as far. as the north 
point, brought hogs, tobacco, tapa, and ai paj 
which were collected on the north bank. From 
bank to bank the traders shouted to each other, and 
arranged the preliminaries of their bargains. From 
thence the articles were taken down to the before- 
mentioned rock in the middle of the stream, which, 
in this place, is almost covered by huge stones. 
Here they were examined by the parties immediate- 
ly concerned, in the presence of the col-lectors, who 
stood on each side of the rock, and were the gen- 
eral arbiters, in the event of any disputes arising. 
To them, also, was committed the preservation of 
good order during the fair, and they of course re- 
ceived a suitable remuneration from the different 
parties. On the above occasions, the banks of Wai- 
ruku must often have presented an interesting scene, 
in the bustle of which the clerks of the market must 
have had no inconsiderable share. According to 
the account of the natives, this institution was in 
force till the accession of Rihoriho, the present 
king; since which time it has been abolished. 

In the afternoon, Mr. Ellis called on Maaro, and 
found him ver)^ ill, and averse to conversation. His 
wives sat in the same room playing at cards, and 
apparently too intent on their game to be easily di- 
verted. 

13th. This morning we examined some of the 
eastern parts of the bay. Mr. Ellis also visited the 
sick chief. When he arrived at the house in which 

* Mamake is a remarkably strong blaek or brown native cloth, for the manu- 
facture of which the inhabitants of Ora, and some other inland parts of Puna, are 
celebrated throughout the whole group of the Sandwich Islands. It is made of a 
variety of the morus papyri/era, which grows spontaneously in the above neigh- 
bourhood. 

t Aipa (hard food.) A kind of food made of baked taro pounded together with- 
out any water. When properly prepared, it will remain some months without 
injury. Before being used, it is generally beat up again with a large quantity of 
water, and is then called poe, and is the principal article of fpod in all the islands. 



DISTRICT AND BAY OF WAIAKEA. 1S5 

he had left him yesterday, and inquired where 
Maaro was, they said he had been removed, that the 
house where he then was, was tabu, and the tabu 
would be broken, if Mr. Ellis should go there. 
They refused to tell where the chief was, but did 
not attempt to prevent Mr. Ellis from going in 
search of him. After travelling a mile and a half 
inland, he reached the house where he lay, and was 
immediately invited to enter. The chief seemed to 
have less pain than yesterday, and was much more 
communicative. He said the native doctors had 
brought him there in order to try the effect of medi- 
cines, which he trusted would give relief. Mr. Ellis 
told him he hoped they would, said it was right to 
use every lawful means for the recovery of health; 
but cautioned him particularly against having re- 
course to the incantations of the priests, or making 
any offerings to their former gods, as that was not 
only foolish and useless, but offensive to the great 
God of heaven, the author of all our mercies, with 
whom alone were the issues of life and death. He 
made no reply, but turned the conversation, by say- 
ing, he regretted that he was not able to furnish us 
with a canoe, and that his sickness had not allowed 
him to be more with us. He was told that the mis- 
sionaries also lamented, that they had not had more 
opportunities of telling him of Jesus Christ, the Sa- 
viour of both body and soul, and of endeavouring to 
impress his mind with the necessity of an early ap- 
plication for the pardon of his sins, and the salvation 
of his spirit. When Mr. Ellis left him, he said he 
would think of these things, and, should he get bet- 
ter, would attend himself to instruction, and use his 
influence to induce his people to attend also. 

During the day, we examined various parts of the 
district on the eastern side, and sounded in several 
places along the channel leading to the bay. 

The district of Waiakea, and the bay of the same 
name, (the Whyeatea bay of Vancouver,) forms the 
southern boundary of the division of Hiro, is situ-* 
16* 



186 DISTRICT AND BAY OP WAIAKEA. 

ated on the north-east coast of Hawaii, and distant 
about twenty or twenty-five miles from the eastern 
point of the island. The highest peak of Mouna 
Kea bears due west from the sandy beach at the bot- 
tom, or south end of the bay. In the centre, or 
rather towards the south-east side, is a small island 
connected with the shore by a number of rocks, and 
covered with cocoa-nut trees. South-west of this 
small island, the native vessels usually anchor, and 
they are thereby sheltered from all winds to the 
eastward of north-east. The bottom is good, across 
the whole extent of the bay, but the western side is 
more exposed to the prevailing trade winds. There 
is a shoal extending perhaps two miles from the 
above-mentioned island. It is therefore necessa- 
ry, in going into the harbour, to keep near the west- 
ern shore, which is very bold. The water is deep, 
and the passage free from rocks. There are three 
Streams of fresh water, which empty themselves into 
the bay. One is on the western angle, and is called 
Wairuku. It rises among the summits of Mouna 
Kea, and, after taking a circuitous course for several 
miles, runs rapidly into the sea. Two others, called 
Wairama and Waiakea, rise in springs boiling up 
through the hollow of the lava, at a short distance 
from the shore, fill several large fish ponds, and af- 
terwards run down to the sea. Waiakea is tolerably 
deep, and is navigated by canoes and boats a con- 
siderable distance inland.; 

The face of the country in the vicinity of Waiakea, 
is the most beautiful we have yet seen, which is 
probably occasioned by the humidity of the atmos- 
phere, the frequent rains that fall here, and the long 
repose the district has experienced from volcanic 
eruptions. The light and fertile soil is formed by 
decomposed lava, with a considerable portion of veg- 
etable mould. The whole is covered with luxuriant 
vegetation, and the greater part of it formed into 
plantations^ where plantains, bananas, sugar-cane, 
taro, potatoes, and melons, come to the greatest per- 



DISTRICT AND BAY OF WAIAKEA. 187 

fection. Groves of cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees 
are seen in every direction, loaded with fruit, or 
clothed with luxuriant foliage. The houses are, for 
the most part, larger and better built, than those of 
many districts, through which we had passed. We 
thought the people generally industrious; for, in sev- 
eral of the less fertile parts of the district, we saw 
small pieces of lava thrown up in heaps, and potatoe- 
vines growing very well in the midst of them, though 
we could scarcely perceive a particle of soil. There 
are plenty of ducks in the ponds and streams, at a 
little distance from the sea; and several large ponds 
or lakes literally swarm with fish, principally of the 
mullet kind. The fish in these ponds belong to the 
king and chiefs, and are tabu, from the common peo- 
ple. Along the stone walls, which partly encircle 
these ponds, we saw a number of small huts, where 
the persons reside, who have the care of the fish, and 
are obliged frequently to- feed them with a small 
kind of muscle, which they procure in the sand 
around the bay. 

The district of Waiakea, though it does not in- 
clude more than half the bay, is yet extensive. 
Kukuwau, in the middle of the bay, is its western 
boundary, from which, passing along the eastern 
side, it extends ten or twelve miles towards Kaau, 
the last district in the division of Puna. 

Taking every circumstance into consideration, 
this appears a most eligible spot for a missionary sta- 
tion. The fertility of the soil, the abundance of fresh 
water, the convenience of the harbor, the dense 
population, and the favourable reception w T e have 
met with, all combined to give it a stronger claim to 
immediate attention, than any other place we had 
yet seen, except Kairua. There are 400 houses in 
the bay, and probably not less than 2,000 inhabit- 
ants, who would be immediately embraced in the 
operations of a missionary station here, besides the 
populous places to the north and south, that might 
occasionally be visited from Waiakea, 



-188 MARQUESIANS. 

In the afternoon, Mr. Ellis preached in front of 
the house, where we held our worship on the last 
Sabbath. There were three Marquesians present, 
who arrived here about three weeks since. After the 
service was ended, they said it was maitai. Mr. 
Ellis asked them from what island they came. They 
said, Fatuhiva, (La Magdalena,) and that there were 
seven white men and two negroes living on their 
island, but that they did not tell them any thing about 
Jehovah, or Jesus Christ. Mr. Ellis then asked 
them, if they thought their countrymen would re- 
ceive and protect Christian teachers. "Yes," they 
all answered, "we are sure they would." "But you 
kill and eat white men: missionaries would not be 
safe among you." They seemed considerably affect- 
ed by this observation, and after a moment's pause 
exclaimed, "0 no! no! You would not injure us, 
and should never be injured by us." 

These strangers, possessing all the vivacity nat- 
ural to their countrymen, could not fail to excite in 
our minds the strongest feelings of interest. 

While Mr. Ellis conducted worship at Waiakea, 
Messrs. Bishop and Thurston walked over to Pueo, 
on the western shore, and Mr. Thurston preached to 
about 100 of the people at the house of Kapapa, the 
head-man. When the service was ended, Kapapa 
accompanied them over to the east side of the bay 
in the double canoe, which had been hired to con- 
vey us to Laupahoehoe. 

As we intended to leave Waiakea early in the 
morning, Mr. Ellis walked up in the evening to pay 
a farewell visit to Maaro. He found the chief more 
indisposed, than when he last saw him, restless, and 
apparently in considerable pain. After spending 
some time in religious conversation with Maaro and 
his household, Mr. Ellis took leave of them, and 
enjoyed a pleasant walk back through the lonely 
village. The noise of the surf on the distant 
beach was occasionally heard, the passing breeze 
caused a frequent rustling among the slender leaves 



AN EVENING SCENE. 189 

of the cocoa-nut groves, while the rapid stream rip- 
pled over its pebbly bed in several places close by 
the path. The glimmering lights in the native huts 
shed their enlivening rays through the thick foliage 
of the surrounding gardens, and the beating of the 
drum, and the sound of the hura, with transient 
intervals between, broke upon the ear from several 
directions. These last, though far more agreeable 
than the drunken hallo, the savage war-cry, or the 
horrid yell, from the mysterious heiau, he yet could 
not but hope w T ould soon be exchanged for the words 
of inspired truth, read aloud from the holy Scrip- 
tures, or the cheerful hymn of praise, so frequently 
heard from the lowly cottage, during an evening 
walk through the happy villages of the Society 
Islands. 

14th. At day break, we conducted our worship 
with the people, who crowded our house, and then 
made arrangements for our departure. It was deem- 
ed expedient for Mr. Harwood to remain, and return 
to Oahu in the brig Inore, lying at anchor in the bay, 
as he would thereby be enabled to transact some busi- 
ness for the mission, and also avoid travelling over 
the ravines of Hiro and Hamakua, the fatigue of 
which, on account of his continued lameness, would 
be more than he was able to bear. 

Soon after 6 A. M. we embarked on board our 
eanoe, and passed over the reef to the deep water on 
the western side of the bay. The weather was calm, 
and the men laboured with the paddle till about S, 
when the marania (east wind,) sprang up, and 
wafted us pleasantly along the shore. 

We found our double canoe very convenient, for 
it had a pora, or stage, raised in the middle, which 
provided a comfortable seat, and also kept our things 
above the spray of the sea. The pora is formed by 
tying slight poles to the iako, or cross pieces, that 
connect the two canoes together, from the foremost 
iako to the one nearest the stern. These cross- 
pieces are not straight, but bent like a bow, and 



190 DESCRIPTION OF THE NATIVE CANOES. 

form an arch between Ihe two canoes, which raises 
the pora, or stage, at least two feet higher than the 
sides of the canoe. 

When the breeze sprang up, four of the men laid 
down their paddles, and attended to the sail, while 
one man sat in the stern of each canoe with a large 
paddle to steer. Our canoe, though made of heavy 
wood, was very thin, and therefore light, and, as 
the wind increased, seemed at a rapid rate to skim 
along the tops of the waves. 

The canoes of the Sandwich Islands appear emi- 
nently calculated for swiftness, being long, narrow, 
generally light, and drawing but little water. A 
canoe is always made out of a single tree. Some 
of them are 70 or SO feet long, one or two feet 
wide, and upwards of three feet deep; though 
their length is seldom more than 50 feet. The body 
of the canoe is generally covered with a black paint, 
made by the natives, of various earthy and vegeta- 
ble substances. On the upper edge of the canoe is 
sewed, in a remarkably neat manner, a small strip 
of hard white wood, from six to eight inches in 
width, according to the size and length of the canoe. 
These strips meet and close over the top at both 
stem and stern, and shoot off much water, that 
would otherwise enter the canoe. All the canoes 
of these islands are remarkably strong and neatly 
made, and though not so large as those of New Zea- 
land, the Society Islands, or some of the other 
islands to the southward, are certainly better made, 
and w T ould probably paddle or sail faster than either 
of them. One man will sometimes paddle a single 
canoe faster than a good boat's crew could row a 
whale-boat. Their tackling is simple and conveni- 
ent. The mast generally has a notch cut at the low- 
er end, and is placed on one of the cross-pieces to 
which it is tied. The sails they now use are made 
of mats, and cut in imitation of the sprit-sails of 
foreign boats, which they say they find much better, 
than the kind of sail they had when first visited by 



VOYAGE ALONG THE COAST. 191 

foreigners. When sailing with a fresh breeze, the 
ropes from the lower corner of the sail are always 
loosened, and held in the hands of persons, whose 
only business it is to keep them properly trimmed, 
Their paddles, which are large and strong, are gen- 
erally four or five feet long, have an oval-shaped 
blade and round handle, arid are made of the same 
hard and heavy wood employed in building their ca- 
noes. They are never carved, do not appear hand- 
some, and their weight must make the paddling very 
laborious. 

The face of the country by which we sailed, was 
fertile and beautiful, and the population throughout 
considerable. The numerous plantations on the tops 
or sides of the deep ravines, or vallies, by which they 
were frequently interspersed, with the meandering 
streams running down them into the sea, presented 
altogether a most agreeable prospect. The coast was 
bold, and the rocks evidently volcanic. We fre- 
quently saw the water gushing out of the hollows 
in the face of the rocks, or running in various cas- 
cades from the top to the bottom. 

After sailing very pleasantly for several hours, we 
approached Laupahoehoe. Although we had come 
upwards of twenty miles, and had passed not less 
than fifty ravines, or vallies, we had not seen a spot 
where we thought it would be possible to land, with- 
out being swamped; and although we knew we had 
arrived at the end of our voyage, we could discover 
no place, by which it seemed possible to approach the 
shore, as the surf was beating violently, and the 
wind blowing directly towards the land. However, 
when we got within a few yards of the surf, we per- 
ceived an opening in the rocks, just wide enough to 
admit our canoe. 

Into this our pilots steered with uncommon ad- 
dress and precision, and before we could look round, 
we found our canoe on a small beach, a few yards 
long, entirely defended by the rocks of lava, from 
the rolling surf on the outside. 



192 JOURNEY BY LAND. 

It was 1 P. M. when w r e landed, and walked up 
to the house of the head-man, where we had a few 
fish, and some potatoes that we had brought with us 
prepared for dinner. As soon as w T e had dined, the 
people were collected, and Mr. Ellis gave them a 
short address. They afterwards said they had heard 
there were missionaries living at Oahu, teaching the 
king to read, and write, and pray. They had also 
heard of Jehovah, but not of Jesus Christ. It was 
compassionate in the great God, they added, to think 
of them, and send his word among them. 

After staying some time, we proposed to proceed, 
but could not prevail on Makoa to go any further 
that night. He said we had come far enough for one 
day, and had better stay till the morning. He also 
complained of being tired with bailing out the ca- 
noe. We knew this was only an excuse, and that 
the principal reason why he wished to stop was, be- 
cause the head-man of the place had invited us to 
remain, and had told us, that if we would spend the 
night there, he would have a hog and some taro 
cooked. Makoa could not agree to lose the benefit 
of this offer; but, as we were refreshed by our din- 
ner, and thought it best to proceed, w T e thanked the 
chief for his kindness, and, finding our guide deter- 
mined to stay there, we took each a blanket, and re- 
sumed our journey. 

Leaving Laupahoehoe, w T e ascended the north side 
of the deep ravine, at the bottom of which the vil- 
lage is situated. We reached the top after climbing 
between 400 and 500 feet, and beheld a beautiful 
country before us. Over this we travelled about five 
miles in a west-north-west direction towards the 
foot of Mouna Kea, and after passing three deep 
ravines, reached Humuula, a little before sunset. 
This retired little village is situated on the edge of 
the woods extending along the base of Mouna Kea. 
We directed our steps to the principal house in the 
village, and invited the people of the neighbourhood 
to meet us there. They soon collected, and listened 



NATIVE HOSPITALITY. 193 

with apparent interest to a short discourse. Many- 
continued with us, in conversation, till a late hour. 
Our hostess, who was a widow, treated us very kind- 
ly, and between seven and eight brought in for our 
supper a baked pig, and a large dish of taro. This 
was the more grateful, as it had not been required 
by Makoa in the governor's name, but was furnished 
by the genuine feelings of hospitality, which char- 
acterize the South-Sea islanders; though not prac- 
tised so much by the Hawaiians, as by some other 
tribes in the Pacific ; and we believe much less now, 
than when the Sandwich Islands were first discover- 
ed, or during the earlier visits they received. The 
air was cool through the night, though the thermom- 
eter at sunset stood at 73*. 

15th. Several members of the family we had 
lodged with, united with us in our morning worship, 
after which, we breakfasted nine together. While 
thus engaged, Makoa arrived with our baggage, and 
about 8 A. M. we were ready to proceed. Unwil- 
ling that our hostess should suffer by her kindness, 
we presented her with as much blue cotton cloth, as 
would amply pay for the supper she had generously 
furnished last evening, and then set out on our 
journey. 

The widely extended prospect of the ocean, and 
of the shores of Hamakua on our right, which our 
morning walk afforded, was agreeably diversified by 
the occasional appearance of the snow-capt peaks of 
Mouna Kea, seen through the openings of the trees. 
The body of the mountain was hid by the wood on 
our left, and the different peaks only appeared like 
so many distinct hills at a great distance. The 
highest peak bore S. W. by S. from Humuula. 
The high land, over which we passed, was gen- 
erally woody, though the trees were not large. The 
places that were free from wood, were covered with 
long grass and luxuriant ferns. The houses mostly 
stood single, and were scattered over the face of the 
country. A rich field of potatoes, or taro, or large 
17 



I $4 REMAINING SUPERSTITIONS. 

plantations of sugar-cane and bananas, occasionally 
bordered our path. Though the soil was excellent, 
it was only partially cultivated. The population 
also appeared less, than what we had seen inhabiting 
some of the most desolate parts of the island. 

About 10 A. M. we reached the valley of 
Kaura, which separates the division of Hiro and 
Hamakua. On descending to the bottom of it, 
we reached a heiau, dedicated to Pele, with sev- 
eral rude stone idols, wrapped up in white and yel- 
low cloth, standing in the midst of it, A number 
of wreaths of flowers, pieces of sugar-cane, and 
other presents, some of which were not yet faded, 
lay strewed around, and we were told, that every pass- 
ing traveller left a trifling present before them. Once 
in a year, we were also informed, the inhabitants of 
Hamakua brought large gifts of hogs, dogs, and 
fruits, when the priests and kahu of Pele assembled 
to perform certain rights and enjoy the feast. This 
annual feast, we were told, was designed to propiti- 
ate the volcanic goddess, and secure their country 
from earthquakes and inundations of lava. 

We ventured to deviate from the custom of trav- 
ellers in general. Yet, though we presented no of- 
ferings, we did not go and pull down the heiau, and 
irritate the people by destroying their idols; but en- 
tered into conversation with them on the folly of 
worshipping such senseless things, and pointed out 
the more excellent way of propitiating the favour 
©f Jehovah the true God with sacrifices of thanks- 
giving and praise, and placing all their hopes in his 
mercy. They took what we said in very good part, 
and answered, that though the stones could not save 
them, the being, whom they represented, or in 
honour of whom they were erected, was very power- 
ful, and capable of devouring their land and destroy- 
ing the people. This we denied, and told them that 
volcanoes and all their powers were under the con- 
troul of that God, whom we wished them to choose 
for their God and Saviour. 



RELIGIOUS INSTRUCTION. 195 

After a drawing had been taken of this beautiful 
valley, we resumed our journey. 

About mid-day we came to a considerable village, 
called Kearakaha, where we collected the people, 
and preached to them. They listened attentively, 
and conversed a good deal afterwards on what had 
been said. 

Leaving Kearakaha, we continued our walk to 
Manienie, where we dined, and rested till four in 
the afternoon. During our stay the people w T ere 
assembled, and addressed as usual on the great sub- 
jects of religion. 

Shortly after the conclusion of the service, we left 
Manienie, and travelled over a well cultivated tract 
of country, till we reached Taumoarii, where we 
thought it best to put up for the night, as we were 
considerably fatigued with our day's journey, having 
crossed nearly twenty ravines, from 300 to 400 feet 
deep. The people of the place collected in front of the 
head-man's house, for religious worship, and the ser- 
vice was concluded just as the sun was setting. We 
spent the evening in conversation with the people of 
the house. Many of them exclaimed, Mukemake 
au ia Jesu Kraist. Jlroha nui o Jesu, (1 desire 
Jesus Christ. Great is Jesus' love.) Makoa, as 
usual, excited a great deal of interest among them, 
by accounts of our journey, &c. This evening he 
turned theologian, and while we were at supper we 
heard him telling a party around him, that heaven 
was a place, where there was neither salt-fish, nor 
calabashes of poe. Indeed, added he, we shall never 
want any there, for we shall never be hungry. But, 
in order to get there, much is to be done. A man 
that wishes to go there, must live peaceably with his 
neighbours, must never be idle, and moreover must 
be a kanaka opu nui ore, (a man without a great 
belly,) that is, must not be a glutton. 

16th. We arose at day light, and shortly after left 
Taumoarii. We had not travelled more than four or 
five miles, when we reached Kaahua. After break-* 



196 DIVISION OF THE COMPANY* 

fast, we sat out on our journey over a country equai 
in fertility to any we had passed since leaving Waia- 
tea. The houses were in general large, containing 
usually three or four families each. Mr. Goodrich 
was indisposed through the day, which obliged us 
to travel slowly. Near noon we stopped at Koloaha, 
and while Mr. G. reclined beneath the shade of 
some adjoining trees, Mr. Ellis preached to the as- 
sembled natives. After stopping about two hours, 
we walked on to another village, where Mr. Thurs- 
ton preached to the people, who gave good atten- 
tion. We then kept on our way till we reached Ma- 
lanahae, where we addressed a considerable congrega- 
tion. When we had conversed some short time with 
them, we walked on, and, about 3 P. M., reached 
Kapulena. There we preached to upwards of 100 
people. 

At this place, 'we thought it best to divide our- 
selves into two parties, in order that we might 
preach to the people along the north shore, and ex- 
amine the interiour between this place and Towaihae. 
It was therefore arranged, that Messrs. Bishop and 
Goodrich should spend the Sabbath here, and on 
Monday morning pass over to Waimea, and thence 
to Towaihae; while Messrs. Thurston and Ellis trav- 
elled through the villages on the northern shores. 

On Monday morning, Messrs. Bishop and Good- 
rich commenced their journey to Waimea. Having 
procured a man to carry their baggage, they left 
Kapulena, and taking an inland direction, passed 
over a pleasant country, gently undulated with hill 
and dale. The soil was fertile, tlie vegetation, 
flourishing, and there w r as considerable cultivation, 
though but few inhabitants. About noon they 
reaehed the valley of Waimea, lying at the foot of 
Mouna Kea, on the north-west side. 

Here a number of villages appeared on each side 
of the path, surrounded with plantations, in which 
plantains, sugar-cane, and taro, were seen growing 
unusually large. At 4 P. M. they obtained a view 



TRADITIONARY NOTICE. 197 

\ 

of the ocean, and, after some little trouble with the 
man who carried their baggage, kept on their way 
towards Towaihae. 

When they had travelled several miles towards 
the western shore, the sun went down, and no houses 
being near, they spread their blankets on the ground, 
and slept comfortably in the open air. 

19th. At break of day, they began to descend, and 
after walking about two hours, reached Towaihae, 
where they were hospitably received by Mr. Young, 
with whom they spent the day. 

Among other subjects, the conversation happened 
to turn on the source whence the Sandwich Islands 
derived their population. Mr. Young said, the na- 
tives had several traditions, one of which was, that 
an immense bird laid an egg on the water, which soon 
burst, and produced the island of Hawaii, and short- 
ly after a man and woman, a hog, and a dog, and a 
pair of fowls,came in a canoe from the Society Islands, 
landed on the eastern shores, and were the progenitors 
of the present inhabitants. 

Having heard of a schooner from Oahu, which 
was at Keauhou, they left Towaihae in the evening 
in a canoe belonging to Mr. Young, and proceeded 
to Kairua, where the schooner was lying at anchor. 



CHAPTER IX. 

Description of Waipio. — Another place of refuge. 
— Notions of a future state. — Waimanu val- 
ley. — Interest felt at this place in the instruc- 
tions of the missionaries. — Fall of immense 
masses of rocks. — Halana. — Character of Ta- 
mehameha. — Method of procuring sandal wood. 
Ascent of Mouna Kea. 

It was about 5 o'clock in the afternoon, when 
Messrs. Thurston and Ellis left Kapulena, and wish- 
ing to spend the Sabbath in the populous village of 

17* 



19S VALLEY OP WAIPIO. 

Waipio, they travelled fast over hill and dale, walk- 
ing along the narrow paths bordered with long 
grass, or through the well cultivated plantations of 
the natives. The sun had set when they reached 
the high cliff that formed its southern boundary. 
Steep rocks, not less than five hundred feet high, 
rose immediately opposite. Viewed from the great 
elevation at which the travellers stood, the charm- 
ing valley spread out beneath them like a map, with 
numerous inhabitants, cottages, plantations, fish- 
ponds, and meandering streams, on the surface of 
which the light canoe was seen sailing along. 

Makoa led their way down the steep cliff. 
The descent w 7 as difficult, and it was quite dark 
before they reached the bottom. Some natives, 
returning from a fishing excursion, ferried them across 
the stream that ran along near the place where they 
descended, and they directed their steps towards the 
house of Haa, head man of the valley. He received 
them courteously, ordered a clean mat to be spread 
for them to recline upon, and some water for them 
to drink. Some of his attendants also handed them 
a large wooden tobacco pipe, which is usually passed 
round when strangers arrive. This last compliment, 
however, the visiters begged leave to decline. Makoa 
seated himself by the side of the chief, and gave him 
a brief outline of their tour, their object, and their 
instructions to the people. In the mean time, some 
fish was prepared for supper by a fire of sandal- 
wood, which, instead of filling the house with un- 
pleasant smoke, perfumed it with a most agreeable 
odour. After family worship in the native language, 
they retired to rest. 

17th. The morning unveiled to view the extent 
and beauty of this romantic valley. Its entrance 
from the sea, which was blocked up with sand hills 
50 or 60 feet high, appeared to be a mile and a half 
wide. The summits of the hills, which bordered 
the valley, seemed at least 600 feet above the level 
of the sea. They were nearly perpendicular, yet 



VALLEY OP WAIPIO. 199 

were clothed with grass; and low straggling 
shrubs were here and there seen amidst the jutting 
rocks. A number of winding paths led up their 
steep sides, and, in several parts, limped streams 
flowed in beautiful cascades, from the top to the 
bottom, forming a small river, which, mean- 
dering along the valley, found a passage through 
the sand-hills, and emptied itself into the sea. The 
bottom of the valley was one continued garden, 
cultivated with taro, bananas, sugar-cane, and other 
productions of the islands, all growing luxuriantly. 
Several large ponds were also seen in different di- 
rections, well stocked with excellent fish. A num- 
ber of small villages, containing from twenty to 
fifty houses each, stood along the foot of the moun- 
tains at unequal distances on each side, and extended 
up the valley till projecting cliffs obstructed the 
view. 

Morning worship was conducted with their host 
and his family, and, about half' past ten, the people 
of the neighbourhood assembled in front of the 
house. Mr. Thurston preached to them, considera- 
bly encouraged by the attention given. In the 
afternoon he walked up to the north side of the 
valley, and preached to three congregations of about 
100 each, in three different villages. Mr. Ellis 
walked up the south side of the valley, about one 
mile and a half, to the village of Napopo, contain- 
ing forty-three houses, and preached to the people 
there. After the service, the people complained of 
their great ignorance, and wished they might be 
visited again. 

At 5 P. M. Mr. Ellis returned, and preached to 
the people in the place where Mr. Thurston had 
preached in the morning. About 300 were present 
and listened attentively. 

The chief, with whom they lodged, made many 
inquiries respecting the way of salvation through 
Jesus Christ. He also asked about the change, 
which ftad taken place in the Society Islands, and 



200 VALLEY OF WAIPIO. 

afterwards observed that Hawaii was a dark land, 
and would not soon attend to its true interest. He 
and his family cheerfully united in the devotional 
exercises of the day, and by his conversation mani- 
fested, for an untutored native, an unusual degree of 
intelligence. 

In the evening, as they sat round the door, the 
voice of wailing and lamentation broke upon the 
ear. On inquiry, it was found to proceed from a 
neighbouring cottage, where a woman, who had 
been sick for some time past, had just expired. 
This circumstance led to a conversation on death, 
and a future state ; the necessity of evangelical 
repentance, and habitual preparedness for the event- 
ful change which awaits all mankind. While they 
were talking, the moon arose, and shed her mild 
light upon the valley. Her beams were reflected 
by the rippling stream, and the small lakes beautifi- 
ed the scene. All was serene and still, save the 
chirping insects in the grass. The echo of the cloth 
mallet, which had been heard through the day in 
different parts of the valley, had now ceased. 
Though generally a pleasant sound, especially when 
heard in a solitary valley, indicating the industry 
of the natives, it had on this day called forth the 
most affectionate solicitude for the interesting peo- 
ple of the place, and the travellers could not but 
long and pray for the speedy arrival of that time, 
when the sacred hours of the Sabbath should be 
employed in spiritual and devotional exercises. 
That, however, is not to be expected in the present 
circumstances of the people, for 

"The sound of the church going bell 
•' These rallies and rocks never heard ;" 

and probably their inhabitants had never been in- 
formed until this day, that six days they should 
labour and do all their work, and that the seventh 
is the Sabbath of the Lord their God, which he 
requires them to sanctify by sacred worship and 
holy rest. 



VALLEY OF WAIPIO. 201 

18th. While some medicine was preparing, Haa 
inquired what kind it was, when Makoa, who was 
sitting by, observed, that it was very strong medi- 
cine ; that if a native only smelt it, his breath 
would be taken away. He referred probably to a 
bottle of hartshorn, which had once been handed 
him to smell of. "If any of us" added he, "were 
to be taken sick on a journey, we should rest a 
few days till w T e got quite well, before we should 
think of continuing it; but they are strange people, 
very unlike us in this respect ; for frequently, after 
being sick all night, they get up in the morning, 
take medicine which would send us all to sleep, and 
then walk on all day, as if nothing were the matter 
with them." 

After breakfast, Mr. Thurston walked about five 
miles up the valley, in order to form an estimate of 
its population, and preach to the people. The 
whole extent was well cultivated, and presented in 
every direction the most beautiful prospects. At 
one of the villages where he stopped, about 100 
people collected, to whom he preached the word of 
salvation. Mr. Ellis spent the morning in taking a 
drawing of the valley from the sand-hills on the 
beach, and in examining some large heiaus in the 
neighbourhood, in reference to which the natives 
taxed their credulity by the legendary tales they 
related respecting the number of hundred victims, 
which had on some occasions been offered. 

In the days of Umi, that king was sacrificing at 
"Waipio, when the voice of Kuahiro, his god, was 
heard from the clouds calling for more men. The 
king kept sacrificing, and the voice continued calling 
for more, till he had slain all his men except one, 
whom, as he was a great favourite, he refused at 
first to give up. But the god being urgent, he 
sacrificed him also, and the priest and himself were 
the only two that remained of all his company. 
Upwards of eighty victims, they said, were offered 



202 ANOTHER PLACE OF REFUGE. 

at that time in obedience to the audible demands of 
the insatiate demon. 

In the afternoon, Messrs. Thurston and Ellis 
visited Pakarana, the puhonua, or place of refuge, 
for all that part of the island. It was a large enclo- 
sure, less extensive, however, than that at Honaunau. 
The walls, though of great antiquity, were of 
inferiour height and dimensions. In the midst of 
the enclosure,, under a wide spreading pandanus, was 
a small house called ke hale o Riroa, (the house of 
Riroa,) from the circumstances of its containing the 
bones of a king of that name, who was the son of 
Umi, and, according to their traditions, reigned in 
Hawaii about fifteen generations back. 

Messrs. E. & T. tried to gain admittance to the 
pahu tabu, or sacred enclosure, but could not. 
They also endeavoured to obtain a sight of the bones 
of Riroa ; but the men who had charge of the 
house, told them they must offer a hog, before they 
could be admitted ; that Tamehameha, whenever he 
entered, had always sent offerings, that Rihoriho, 
since he had become king, had done so, and that no 
one could be admitted on other conditions. 

They were then directed to a rudety carved 
stone image, about six feet high, standing at one 
corner of the wall, which the natives said was a tii, 
or image of Riroa. The travellers talked some time 
with them on the folly of worshipping images, or 
deifying departed mortals. The only answer they 
made was, " Pela no i Hawaii nei" (so it is at 
Hawaii here.) During the afternoon, great numbers 
of men belonging to the valley returned with loads 
of sandal wood, which they had been cutting in the 
neighbouring mountains. 

At 5 o'clock in the afternoon, about 300 of the 
people of the place assembled for public worship in 
the front of Haa, the head man's house, where they 
were addressed from Luke xiv, 23. The people 
were very attentive and frequently interrupted the 
speaker by their exclamations. Some said, "Jehovah 



NOTIONS OF A FUTURE STATE. 203 

is a good God. The living God is a good God. 
Great is his love." 

After the service, they sat talking on what they 
had heard, till the sun had set, and the moon had 
reached the mid heaven, occasionally making inqui- 
ries. The chief, in particular, seemed much inter- 
ested, and during the evening expressed himself, as 
well as several others, very desirous that a missiona- 
ry should come and reside with them, that they 
might be instructed fully in all these things. 

According to the number of houses, which we 
have seen, in all 2fi5, there are at least 1325 inhab- 
itants in this sequestered valley, besides populous 
villages on each side along the coast, which might 
be easily visited. This circumstance, together with 
the fertility of the soil, the abundance of water, the 
facility with which, at most seasons of the year, 
supplies could be forwarded by water from Kairua, 
or Towaihae, combine to render this an eligible 
spot for a missionary station. 

After supper a very interesting conversation was 
carried on with respect to the separate existence of 
the soul, the resurrection of the body, and the 
general judgment of the last day. The account of 
the raising of the widow's son, and the calling of 
Lazarus from the grave, after he had been dead 
four days, interested and affected them much. 

Messrs. T & E. endeavoured to learn from them 
something respecting their opinions of a state of 
existence after death. But all they said upon the 
subject was so contradictory , and mixed with fiction, 
that it could not be discovered whether they had 
any definite idea of the nature, or even the existence 
of such a state. Some said, that all the souls of the 
departed went to the po (place of night,) or were 
annihilated, or eaten by the gods there. Others 
said, that they went to the regions of Akea and 
Miru. Akea, they said, was the first king of 
Hawaii. At the expiration of his reign, which 
terminated at Waipio, the place where they then 



204 NOTIONS OP A FUTURE STATE. 

were, he descended to a region far below, called 
Kapapahanaumoku* (the island bearing rock, or 
stratum,) and founded a kingdom there. Mini, who 
was his successor, and reigned in Hamakua, de- 
scended, when he died, to Akea, and shared the 
government of the place with him. Their land is 
a place of darkness ; their food lizards and butterflies. 
There are several streams of water, of which they 
drink. Some said there were large kahiras^ and 
wide spreading kou trees, beneath which they reclined. 
But to most of the questions they said they could give 
no answer, as they knew nothing about it; none 
had ever returned in open day-light to tell them any 
thing respecting it, and all they knew was from 
visions or dreams of the priests. Sometimes, they 
said, when a recently liberates spirit arrived in the 
dominions of vliru, (she Pluto of Hawaii.) he, that 
is Miru, would ask it, what the kings above were 
doing, and what were their principal pursuits, and 
when he had answered, he was sent back to the ao 
marama (state of day, or light,) with a message 
from Miru, to them to iho nui mat ma net (to de- 
scend altogether to this place.) The person so sent 
would appear to the priest in a dream, deliver his 
message, and then return to the lower regions. 

This account accorded with the report of the late 
Tamehameha's appearing to a man in the division 
of Kona, of which we had before heard. A short 
time ago, a man in the southern part of Kona, retir- 
ed to rest as usual In the middle of the night, it 
is said he was conducted by a spirit to the lower 
regions, where he saw Tamehameha, who asked 
him by whom Hawaii was governed, and made 
several inquiries respecting his son Rihoriho, and 
his other children. Tamehameha then requested the 
man to return, deliver a certain message to Kuakini, 
and also to Rihoriho the king, promising his favour, 
if he obeyed, but threatening severely should he 

* Compounded of kapafa, the rocI^ f or stratum of rock, kanau, to bear or 
bring forth, and mofcu t an island. 



SAIL FROM WAIPIO. 205 

fail to do as he had directed him. The man return- 
ed to his house, related where he had been, but 
instead of setting off immediately to Kairua, he 
stopped to dress a hog, and prepare an oven of 
wood, to strengthen him for the journey. The 
delay was severely punished, for he died before the 
food he had stopped to prepare was cooked. This 
story probably originated with some, who were 
fearful lest the institutions and principles of the 
late king should be disregarded by his successor. 
However it serves to exhibit the popular notions of 
the people, and the great influence Tamehameha had 
over them. 

The account given this evening of the Hawaiian 
hades affords another proof of the strong analogy be- 
tween the traditions of the Sandwich and Society Is- 
lands. For among the latter, the spirits of the Areois 
and priests of certain idols, were not eaten by the 
gods, after the death of their bodies, but went to Miru, 
where they lived much in the same way, as the 
departed kings and heroes of Hawaii were supposed 
to do, or, joining hands, they formed a circle with 
those that had gone before, and danced in one 
eternal round. 

19th. At day-light numbers of the people collect- 
ed around the house where Messrs. Thurston and 
Ellis lodged, with whom they conducted their 
morning worship. Haa, the chief of the place, 
beneath whose friendly roof they had been most 
hospitably entertained, then accompanied them to 
the beach, where he had prepared a canoe to take 
them to the next district. Shortly after six, A. M. 
they gave him the parting hand with sincere thanks 
for his kindness, after which they seated themselves 
in the canoe, and, in the midst of many expressions 
of good will from those who had come down to the 
beach to bid them farewell, were safely launched 
through the surf. They left Waipio deeply im- 
pressed with a sense of the kind treatment they had 
18 



206 APPEARANCE OP THE COAST. 

received, and, with feelings of sympathy for the 
mental darkness and degradation of the interesting 
people, by whom the place was inhabited. They 
could not but hope, that they would soon enjoy the 
constant light of Christian instruction, and participate 
in every Christian privilege. 

The shore, along which their canoe was paddled, 
was bold and romantic in the extreme. In many 
places the mountains rose almost perpendicularly 
600 feet above the sea. Their steep sides were 
nearly destitute of verdure, as it was the dry season ; 
yet, at unequal distances of a quarter or half a mile 
from each other, beautiful water falls and varied 
cascades flowed from the top into the ocean below. 
The rocks seemed composed of various strata of 
vescicular lava, and in several places the water was 
seen oozing out between the strata in the face of the 
rocks, some hundred feet below their summits. 
Large stones and fragments of rocks in some places 
lay scattered along the base of the precipice, just 
above the water's edge ; but frequently the mountain 
sides seemed to descend perpendicularly to a consid- 
erable depth under water. 

Several groups of natives were seen passing along 
on the large stones at the foot of the mountains, and 
whenever they came to a place where the deep 
waters extended up to the base of the precipice, 
they all jumped into the sea, and swam perhaps fifty 
or sixty yards, till they came to another ledge of 
rocks, upon which they would climb and pursue 
their journey. 

After proceeding pleasantly along for five or six 
miles, the travellers arrived at Waimanu, a little 
before 8 o'clock. They found Arapia, the chief, 
and a number of his men busy on the beach ship- 
ping sandal wood on board a small sloop belonging 
to the governor, then laying at anchor in a small 
bay off the mouth of the valley. He received them 
very kindly, and directed some of his men tp con- 
duct them to his house, which was on the opposite 



VALLEY OP WAIMANU. 207 

side. Messrs. Thurston and Ellis were forcibly- 
struck with the beauty of the scenery, as they pass- 
ed over the valley, which, though not so spacious 
as Waipio, was equally fertile, picturesque and 
romantic. The glittering cascades and water-falls, 
that rolled down the steep sides of the surrounding 
mountains, seemed more numerous and beautiful, 
than those they had seen at Waipio. When they 
arrived at the house of Arapia, they were welcomed 
by his wife and several members of his family. 

While Mr. Ellis was employed in taking a hasty 
sketch of Waimanu, Mr. Thurston walked up to 
the head of the valley to number the houses and 
speak to the people. At one of the villages through 
which he passed, about 150 of the inhabitants as- 
sembled, to whom he preached. The people were 
much interested, and several of them followed him 
down to the chief's house near the beach. Shortly 
after his return, the chief came home, and they 
took some breakfast of salt fish and taro. When 
they had finished, they requested that the people of 
the place might assemble to hear the word they had 
to speak to them. About 200 collected, and Mr. 
Ellis preached from John vi, 40. The people gave 
very good attention, particularly the wife of Arapia, 
who was afflicted with an affection of the spine, 
which prevented her walking without support. 
She called them to her after the service, and told 
them she had incurred the displeasure of the gods, 
by eating a fish that was tabu, or sacred, and that the 
disease which rendered her a cripple, was her pun- 
ishment. She said she had felt great pleasure on 
hearing the invitation of Jesus Christ, desired to go 
to him and obey his word, inquiring at the same 
time, very earnestly, if they thought he would and 
could save her. They told her that eating the tabu- 
fish was not the cause of her sufferings, and encour- 
aged her to repair by faith to him, who was able and 
willing to heal her body, if he saw fit, and who 
would save assuredly her soul, if she rightly applied 



208 VALLEY OF WAIMANtT. 

to him ; repeating to her, at the same time, several 
of the most precious promises of our blessed Lord, 
to those who are weary and heavy laden. Great 
numbers of the people crowded round their visitors, 
when the service was ended, and, with much earnest- 
ness, besought them to sit down and repeat over 
again several truths they had heard, as the name and 
attributes of Jehovah, his law, the name and offices 
of Jesus Christ the only Saviour. They also re- 
quested to be more particularly informed in what 
manner they should pray to him, and how they 
should know when the Sabbath day came. They 
were told to go to Jehovah in prayer, as a child 
went to its parents, assuring them they w r ould find 
Jehovah more ready to attend to them, than the 
fondest earthly parent was to listen to his darling 
child. This did not satisfy them ; the missionaries 
therefore mentioned several expressions of praise, 
confession and petition, which the people repeated 
after them till they could say them correctly. The 
chief then sent for a youth about sixteen years of 
age, of whom he seemed very fond, and after he 
and his wife had requested him to attend very par- 
ticularly to what he should hear, they requested 
their visiters to repeat to him what they had before 
told them. They did so, and he evidently tried so 
to treasure up the words in his memory as not to 
forget them, and when the youth could repeat cor- 
rectly what had been told him, the parents seemed 
highly pleased. Indeed the greater part of the peo- 
ple seemed to regard the tidings of or a roa ia Jesu 
(endless life by Jesus Christ.) as the most joyful 
news they had ever heard. The chief's wife in 
particular exclaimed aloud, "Will my spirit never 
die? and can this poor weak body live again?" 
When they rose to depart, she got up, and, by the 
help of two sticks, walked down to the beach in 
company with them. Here they took an affectionate 
leave, and then stepped into a canoe, which Arapia 
had provided to carry them as far as Honokane, the 



FALL OF MASSES OF ROCKS. 209 

first village in the division of Kohala. As the 
canoe pushed off from the shore, the travellers again 
bade them farewell. When they saw the interesting 
group standing on the beach, they could not but 
feel the most lively concern for their welfare. * 
They involuntarily besought the great Redeemer, 
that his Holy Spirit might be poured out upon them, 
that the seed sowed among them, though scattered 
by the way side, might take root in their hearts, and 
produce a glorious harvest to his praise. After 
leaving Waimanu, they passed by Laupahoehoe, a 
second village of that name on this part of the coast, 
where, according to accounts of the natives, about 
seven or nine months before, an immense mass of 
rocks had suddenly fallen down. The mountain 
that remained appeared nearly 600 feet high, the 
face next the sea was perpendicular, and as smooth 
as a compact piece of masonry. The rock appeared 
volcanic, and the different strata of highly vescicular 
lava were very distinct. In several places they saw 
the water oozing out from the face of the rock, 200 
or 300 feet from the summit. The mass that had 
fallen, lay in ruins at the base, where it had formed 
two considerable hills, filled up a large fish pond 
and part of the sea, presenting altogether an awful 
sight. The original surface of the ground appeared 
to have been broken by an earthquake, as some 
parts were rent by deep chasms, others sunk down 
six or twelve feet lower than the rest. The shrubs 
and grass were growing luxuriantly on the upper or 
original, and lower or fallen surface, while the per- 
pendicular space between them indicated that the 
latter had recently sunk down from the former. 
Wrecks of houses were seen in several places, some 
partly buried by the ruins, others standing just on 
the edge of the huge rocks that had fallen from 
above. Several houses were standing in the neigh- 
bourhood, but seemed to be all deserted. The 
natives said, that in the evening when the accident 
took place, a mist of fog was seen to envelope the 
*1S 



210 FALL OF MASSES OV ROCKS. 

summits of the precipice, and that after the sun had 
set, a luminous appearance, like a lambent flame, was 
observed issuing from, and playing about, the top, 
which made them think it was a forerunner of Pele, 
a volcanic fire. A priest of Pele and his family 
resided in one of the villages below, and immediate- 
ly offered his prayer to the goddess, and told the 
inhabitants that no harm would befal them. About 
10 o'clock at night, however, the whole side of the 
mountain, for nearly half a mile in extent along the 
shore, fell down with a horrid crash. Part of two 
small villages were destroyed, and several of the 
inhabitants killed ; but the natives did not agree, as 
to the numbers; some said 20 were killed, others said 
only 18. The people with whom Messrs. Thurston 
and Ellis talked on the spot, and at other places 
subsequently, could not recollect having heard the 
natives, who escaped, say any thing about an earth- 
quake at the time. They did not land at this place, 
but passed close to the shore, and continued to sail 
along at the base of steep mountains 500 or 600 
feet high, and although nearly perpendicular, they 
were intersected here and there by winding paths, 
which they at first thought could only be travelled 
by the goats, but up which they afterwards saw one 
or two groups of travellers pursuing their steep and 
rugged way. About noon they passed by Honokea, 
a narrow valley, separating the division of Hama- 
kua and Kohala, and shortly after reached Honokane, 
the second village in the latter division. Here 
they landed, an- went through the village to the 
house of Ihikaina, chief woman of the place, and 
sister to Arapia^ the chief of Waimanu, from which 
Honokane is distant about 20 miles. Ihikaina 
received them very kindly, and for their refresh- 
ment provided a duck, some vegetables, and a small 
quantity of excellent milk. The valley contained 
50 houses. A considerable number collected round 
the door of the house, and listened to a short ad- 
dress, but did not appear so much interested as 



DESCRIPTION OF POLULU. 211 

those at Waimanu or Waipio had been. About 4 
P. M. they left Honokane, and passed on to Polulu. 
On their way, they walked over a long tract of 
fragments of rocks occasioned by the falling down 
of the side of the mountain, which took place at 
the same time as that of Laupahoehoe, which they 
had passed in the morning. It was impossible to 
walk over these rocks without considerable emotion ; 
some broken into small pieces, others in blocks of 
several tons weight, each lying just as it had fallen, 
all the fractures fresh, and the surface hardly dis- 
coloured, while the steep side of the mountain, from 
which it had fallen, looked as smooth and even, as 
if the mass below had been separated from it only a 
few moments before. In some places between 
Honokane and Polulu, they had to walk in the sea, 
where the water was up to the knees, but by watch- 
ing the surf they passed by without much inconve- 
nience. Polulu is a pleasant village situated in a 
small cultivated valley, having a fine stream of water 
flowing down its centre, while lofty mountains rise 
on either side not less than 500 feet high. The houses 
stand principally on the beach, but as the travellers 
did not see many of the inhabitants, they passed on, 
ascended the steep mountain of the north side, and 
kept on their way. The face of the country was as 
beautiful and fertile, as any they had seen, except 
Waiakea, and seemed populous, though the houses 
were scattered over the whole face of the country, 
and more than three or four seldom appeared to- 
gether. The streams of water were frequent, and 
a considerable quantity of ground was cultivated on 
their banks and in the vicinity. About sun-set they 
passed the residence of Mr. Parker, an American, 
who has resided some years on the island, and culti- 
vated a considerable tract of ground. As he was 
in the mountains shooting wild cattle for the king 
and Karaimoku, they did not see him. During their 
journey this day, they passed by 458 houses, but as 
they travelled some part of the way six or eight 



212 CHARACTER OP TAMEHAMEfiA. 

miles from the shore, in order to avoid the frequent 
and deep ravines, it is probable there were several 
villages which they did not see. 

About 7 in the evening, they reached Halaua, \h& 
residence of Miomioi, a iriend and favourite of the 
late king, Tamehameha He gave them a hearty 
welcome, and soon had a salt flying-fish broiled for 
supper. A large copper boiler was also brought out, 
and tea was made of some dried mint, which he 
said he had procured, many months ago, from ships at 
Towaihae. He took his supper at the same time, 
but, instead of drinking tea, took a large cocoa-nut 
shell full of ava. If an opinion of its taste might 
be formed by the distortion of his countenance after 
taking it, it must be a most nauseous dose. There 
seemed to be about half a pint of it in the cup; its 
colour was like thick, dirty calcareous w r ater. As he 
took it, a man stood by his side, with a calabash full 
of water, and the moment he had swallowed the 
intoxicating dose, he seized the calabash, and drank 
a hearty draught of the water, to remove the un- 
pleasant taste and burning effect of the ava. 

20th. After an early breakfast with Miomioi and 
his family, Mr. Ellis preached to a considerable 
congregation in his house from Zech, i, 4. The 
people were silent and attentive. 

Between 7 and S, the travellers walked with Mio- 
mioi down to the village on the sea-shore, where he 
pointed out to them several places remarkable by 
their connexion with the early history of Tame- 
hameha. 

Halaua is a considerable district on the north* 
east coast of the island, and if not the birth-place 
of Tamehameha, was the land which he inherited 
from his parents; and, with the exception of a small 
district in the division of Kona, the only land he 
possessed in Hawaii, prior to the death of Taraiopu, 
and the celebrated battle of Keei, which took place 
a few months afterwards. Tamehameha seems to 
have been early distinguished by enterprize, energy, 



CHARACTER OP TAMEHAMEHA. 213 

decision of character, and unwearied perseverance 
in the accomplishment of his objects. Added to 
these, he possessed a vigorous constitution, and an 
unrivalled acquaintance with all the war-like games 
and athletic exercises of his country. To these 
qualities of mind and body he was probably indebted 
for the extensive power and protracted dominion, 
which he exercised over the Sandwich Islands. In 
early youth he associated with himself a number of 
young chiefs of his own age and disposition, into 
whom he had the happy art of instilling, on all oc- 
casions, his own spirit, and inspiring with his own 
energy and resolution ; by which means he most 
effectually secured their attachment and co-operation. 
Great undertakings appear to have been his delight ; 
and achievements that others deemed impracticable, 
were those, which he regarded as most suitable ex- 
ercises of his prowess. Miomioi led the way to a 
spot where, in a small bay, the original coast had 
been a perpendicular pile of rocks at least 100 feet 
high. Tamehameha and his companions had dug 
through the rocks till they had made a good road, 
with a regular descent from the high ground to the 
sea. Up and down this passage canoes could be 
easily drawn. 

At another place he had endeavoured to procure 
water by digging through the rocks, but after forcing 
his way through several strata, the lava was so hard 
that he was obliged to give up the undertaking. 
Probably he had no powder, with which to blast the 
rocks, and not the best tools for working through 
them. A large country in the neighbourhood was 
divided out into fields of considerable size, which 
he used to keep in good order and well stocked with 
potatoes, or other vegetahles. One of these was 
called by his name. He used to cultivate it with 
his own hands. There were several others called 
by the names of his principal friends, or companions, 
which, following his example, they used to cultivate 
themselves. The others were cultivated by their 



214 CHARACTER OF TAMEHAMEHA. 

dependants. As the chief walked through the vil- 
lage, he pointed out the houses, in which Tameha- 
meha used to live, and several groves of trees, that he 
had planted, as Miomioi remarked, before his beard 
was grown. He also pointed out the family heiau 
of Tamehameha, of which Tairi was the god. It 
was an insignificant pile of stones, on a jutting point 
of volcanic rocks. Miomioi, however, said, that 
the tabus were very strictly observed, and the pun- 
ishments incurred by breaking them invariably in- 
flicted on the transgressor ; adding, at the same time, 
that Tamehameha always supposed his success in his 
enterprizes to be owing to the strict attention he 
paid to the service and requirements of his god. 
Many persons, he said, had been burnt in the ad- 
joining hills for having broken the tabus enjoined 
by the priests of Tairi. 

When the travellers had walked through the dis- 
trict, they took leave of Miomioi, and proceeded in 
a N. N. W. direction. The soil was fertile, and 
vegetation abundant. The coast, as they approached 
the N. W. point of the island, was frequently broken 
by snug little bays, or inlets, which are invaluable 
to the inhabitants, on account of the facilities they 
afford for fishing. The tract they passed over to-day, 
seemed more populous than that through which they 
had travelled yesterday; but they found most of the 
villages destitute of inhabitants, except a few wo- 
men, who had charge of some of the houses. On 
inquiry they learned, that, a short time ago, the 
people of Kohala had received orders from the king 
to provide a certain quantity of sandal wood, and 
that they were all absent in the mountains, cutting 
it. At noon they stopped at Kapaau, an inland 
village, where, with some difficulty they collected a 
congregation of about 50 persons, principally women, 
to whom a short discourse was preached. After stop- 
ping some time for rest and conversation, Messrs. 
Thurston and Ellis resumed their journey, passed 
the north point of the island shortly afterwards, and 



MANNER OF OBTAINING SANDAL WOOD. 215 

at 3 P. M. reached Owawarua, a considerable village 
on the north-west coast, inhabited mostly by fisher- 
men. Here they tried to collect a congregation, 
but only three women and two small children re- 
mained in the place ; the rest having gone to Wai- 
mea to fetch sandal wood for Karaimoku. From 
Owawarua they passed on to Hihiu, where a small 
congregation was assembled. Being considerably 
fatigued, and unable to find fresh water in the place, 
the two travellers procured a canoe to take them to 
Towaihae, from which they were distant about 20 
miles. 

Though they had numbered in their journey to- 
day 600 houses, they had not seen any thing like 400 
people, almost the whole population being employed 
in the mountains cutting sandal wood. It was about 
7 o'clock in the evening, when they sailed from 
Hihiu in a single canoe. The land-breeze was light, 
but the canoe went at a tolerably rapid rate, and 
about eleven at night they arrived at Towaihae, 
where they were kindly received by iMr Young. 
By him they were informed that Messrs. Bishop 
and Goodrich had reached Towaihae on the preced- 
ing Tuesday, and had gone to Kairua, expecting 
to obtain a passage in the Pilot-boat to Oahu. 

22d. Before daylight they were roused by vast 
multitudes of people, passing through the district, 
from Waimea, with sandal wood, which had been 
cut in the adjacent mountains for Karaimoku, by 
the people of Waimea, and which the people of 
Kohala, as far as the north point, had been ordered 
to bring down to his store-house on the beach. 
There were between two and three thousand men 
carrying each from one to six pieces of sandal wood, 
according to their size and weight. It was gener- 
ally tied on their backs by bands made of ti leaves, 
which passed over the shoulders and under the arms, 
and was fastened across their breasts. When they had 
deposited their wood at the store-house, they depart- 
ed to their homes. 



216 MESSRS. ELLIS AND THURSTON SEPARATE. 

Between 7 and 8 in the morning, Messrs. Thurs- 
ton and Ellis walked out to the warm springs, a 
little to the southward of the large heiaus, and en- 
joyed a most refreshing bath. These springs rise 
on the beach a little below high water mark. Of 
course they are overflowed by every tide; but, at 
low tide, the warm water bubbles up through the 
sand, fills a small kind of cistern made of stones 
piled close together on the side towards the sea, and 
afford a very agreeable bathing place. The water is 
comfortably warm, and various medicinal qualities 
are ascribed to it by those who have used it. 

In the afternoon, Mr. Goodrich returned from 
Kairua and stated, that the Pilot-boat was at Keau- 
hou, and would sail for Oahu in a fortnight. He 
also brought the more pleasing intelligence, that the 
governor was engaged in building a chapel for the 
public worship of God at Kairua, having at the same 
time, enjoined on his people the observance of the 
Sabbath as a day of rest from labour and amuse- 
ment, to be employed, moreover, in religious exer- 
cises. This welcome intelligence rendered it desir- 
able that either Mr. Thurston or Mr. Ellis should 
repair to Kairua, in order to preach there on the 
coming Sabbath, and encourage them to persevere 
in the work they had so happily begun. It was 
thought best, that the latter should remove to Kai- 
rua, while the former remained at Towaihae, with 
the intention of visiting that part of Kohala which 
they had passed in a canoe on Wednesday evening, 
and also the most populous places in the other 
vicinity. This arrangement, however, prevented 
their again uniting till they arrived at Oahu. 

On the 23d, Mr. Thurston left Towaihae and 
walked along the shore towards the north point. 
He reached a small village, called Kipi, about noon, 
where he preached to the people, and as there was 
only one village between Kipi and the place where 
Mr. Ellis preached on Wednesday evening, he di- 
rected his steps back to Towaihae. He preached at 



LABOURS OF MR. THURSTON. 2l7 

four other villages on his return, where the congre- 
gations, though not numerous, were attentive. The 
heat of the sun was oppressive, and the labours of 
the clay fatiguing; yet it may be hoped that some 
good was effected. The coast was barren; the rocks 
volcanic. The inhabitants were all fishermen* Mr. 
Thurston was informed, that the inhabitants of the 
plantations, about seven miles in the interiour, were 
far more numerous than those of the sea-shore. In 
the evening he reached Towaihae, and found that 
Mr. Goodrich had departed for Waimea, intending to 
ascend Mouna Kea after the Sabbath 

24th. This vvas probably the first Christian Sab- 
bath ever enjoyed by the people of Towaihae, which 
is a village containing about 100 houses. Mr„ 
Thurston preached twice to the people. 

25. In the afternoon, the brig Neo arrived from 
Oahu, intending to remain five or six days, and then 
return. 

About 5 P. M. Mr. T. set out on a visit to the in* 
land district of Waimea, having been furnished with 
a guide by Mr. Young. Just at dark he reached 
Ouli, a place belonging to Mr. Young, where he put 
up for the night. 

26th. In the morning, Mr. T. conducted worship 
with the people of the place, and then walked on to 
Kalaloa the residence of the chief of Waimea, Ku- 
muokapiki, (stump of cabbage.) Leaving Kalaloa, 
he walked on to Waiakoa, Waikala, Pukalani, and 
to Puukapu, 16 or IS miles from the sea-shore, and 
the last village in the district of Waimea. At these 
places he addressed the people. 

The soil over which he had passed, was fertile, 
well watered, and capable of sustaining many thou- 
sand inhabitants He had numbered 220 houses, 
and the present population is probably between elev- 
en and twelve hundred. 

From Puukapu he directed his steps towards the 
sea-shore, and in the twilight of the evening reach- 
. 19 



218 ASCENT OF MOUNA KEA. 

ed Puako, a considerable village, four or five miles 
to the southward of Towaihae. 

27th. After addressing the people, Mr. T. return- 
ed to Towaihae, where he arrived at 10 A. M. 

About noon the same day Mr. Goodrich returned 
from his journey up the mountain. 

Leaving Towaihae on the 23d, he walked up to 
Waimea, on the skirts of which he encamped with 
Mr. Parker, who was employed in shooting wild 
cattle. With him he spent the Sabbath, which was 
rainy and unpleasant. Early on Monday, the 25th, 
he commenced his journey up the mountain. The 
path lay along the side of a deep ravine. The soil 
was formed of decomposed lava and ashes. At noon 
he dismissed his native companion, and taking his 
great coat and blanket, began to ascend the more 
steep and rugged parts. The way was. difficult, on 
account of the rugged, volcanic rocks, and stunted 
shrubs, that covered the sides of the mountain. On 
his way up, he found numbers of red and white rasp- 
berry bushes loaded with delicious fruit. At 5, P. M. 
having reached the upper boundary of the trees and 
bushes that surround the mountain, he erected a tem- 
porary hut, kindled a small fire, and prepared for his 
night's repose. The thermometer, shortly after sun 
set, stood at 43*', and the magnet, though it pointed 
north when held in the hand, was drawn between 
two and three degrees to the eastward, when placed 
on the blocks of lava, owing probably to the great 
quantity of iron in the mountain. 

After a few hours rest, he arose at eleven o'clock 
at night, and, the moon shining brightly, he resum- 
ed his journey towards the summit. At midnight he 
saw the snow about three miles distant, directed his 
steps towards the place, and reached it about one 
o'clock on the morning of the 26th. The snow was 
frozen over, and the thermometer stood at 27°. 

He now directed his steps toward a neighbouring 
peak, which appeared one of the highest, but when he 
had ascended it, he saw several others still higher. 



ASCENT OF MOUNA KEA. 219 

He proceeded towards one, which appeared the 
highest, and bore N. E. from the place where he 
was. On reaching the summit of this second peak, 
he discovered a heap of stones, probably erected by- 
some former visitor. From this peak, Mouna Roa 
bore Sr. by W ; Mouna Huarai, W. by S.; and the 
island of Maui, N. W. The several hills or peaks on 
the summit of Mouna Kea seemed composed entire- 
ly of volcanic matter, principally cinders, pumice 
and sand. Mr. Goodrich did not discover any aper- 
ture, or craters, on either of the summits he visited. 
Probably there is a large crater somewhere on the 
summit, from which the scoria, sand and pumice, 
have been thrown out. The whole of the summit 
was not covered with snow. There were only fre- 
quent patches, apparently several miles in extent, 
over which the snow Was about eight inches or a foot in 
thickness. The ocean to the east and west was visi- 
ble, but the high land on the north and south pre- 
vented its being seen in those directions.* 

Mr. Goodrich commenced his descent about three 
o'clock, and after travelling overlarge beds of sand 
and cinders, into which he sunk more than ancle 
deep at every step, he reached, about sun rise, the 
place where he had slept the preceding evening. 
The descent in several places, especially over the 
snow, was steep and difficult, and the utmost caution 
was necessary to avoid a fell. After taking some 
refreshments at this place, he continued his descent, 
and, between 4 and 5 in the afternoon, reached the 
encampment of Mr. Parker. In his way dow r n, he 
saw, at a distance, several herds of wild cattle, which 
are very numerous in the mountains and inland parts 
of the island. 



* Nearly six months afterwards. Dr. Blatchely and Mr. Ruggles ascended the 
summit of Mouna Kea from Waiakea bay. After travelling- six days, they reached 
.the top of the mountain, where, within the circumference of six miles, they found 
seven mountains or peaks, apparently 800 or 1000 feet high. Their sides were steep, 
and covered with snow about a foot thick. The summit of the mountain appeared 
formed of decomposed lava of a reddish brown colour. The peak in the centre, 
and that g.r the west-em side, are the highest. 



220 ERECTION OF A CHURCH AT KAIRUA. 

Early on the morning of the 27th, he left Mr. 
Parker, and returned through the fertile district of 
Waimea to Towaihae. 



CHAPTER X. 

Messrs. Bishop and Goodrich arrive at Kairua. 
— New house of worship at that place — Observ- 
ance of the Sabbath. — Several of the party em- 
hark for Oahn. — Preaching and conversations 
at Kairua. — All the members of the Deputation 
meet at Honoruru. 

Mr, Bishop, who, in company with Mr. Goodrich, 
had left Towaihae in a canoe belonging to Mr. 
Young, on the evening of the 19th, was obliged to 
put on shore about midnight, on account of the high 
and rough sea, which rendered it dangerous for them 
to proceed. Having slept in the open air till clay- 
light, they resumed their voyage on the 20th, and 
reached Kairua about noon, after an absence of four 
weeks and five days. The Governor welcomed their 
return, and they were very agreeably surprised at 
finding him engaged in erecting a building for the 
worship of the true God. They learned, that he 
had, during the preceding week, collected his peo- 
ple around him, and addressed them on the duty of 
observing the Sabbath according to the laws of 
Jehovah. He also told them, it was his desire, 
that they should cease from work or amusement on 
that day, and attend divine service at his house. 
The people assented to his proposal, and, when the 
Sabbath arrived, such numbers assembled, that hund- 
reds were obliged to stand outside. Numbers also 
repaired to the house of Thomas Hopu, to be in- 
structed in what they denominate the new religion. 
The next day the Governor directed the people of 
Kairua to commence building a house, in whicji they 



ERECTION OF A CHURCH AT KAIRUA. 22,1 

might all meet to worship God; and, on the morn- 
ing in which Messrs. Bishop and Goodrich arrived, 
they had commenced their work. 

In the afternoon, they walked to the place where 
the men were at work. Upwards of 50 persons 
were employed in carrying stones from an old heiau, 
which they were pulling down to raise the ground, 
and lay the foundation of the place of worship. 

It w T as a pleasing sight to view the ruins of an 
idol's temple devoted to such a purpose; and they 
could not but hope, that the genius and spirit of 
Christianity would soon triumph over the supersti- 
tion, prejudice, and wickedness of idolatry. 

The place of worship is 60 feet long, and 30 broad; 
erected in the native manner, and thatched with the 
leaves of the pandanas. The walls are to be 10 feet 
high, with doors at each end, and four windows on 
each side. It was impossible to behold the work, 
without contemplating it as an intimation of most 
benevolent designs on the part of the glorious Lord 
of missions towards the benighted tribes around, or 
without praying that the time might soon arrive, 
when houses for the worship of the living God shall 
be erected in every district in the islands. 

On the 22d, after Mr. Goodrich had returned to 
- Towaihae, a small boat arrived, which had left Oahu 
some days before for Maui, but had been blown so 
far to the southward, that they had with difficulty 
made the south point of Hawaii. They stopped at 
Kairua a short time, in order to procure water, for 
the want of which they had suffered severely. As 
they intended proceeding to Oahu, Mr. Bishop wrote 
by them to the mission family there, informing them 
that the tour of the island had been accomplished, 
and that the members of the Deputation were wait- 
ing an opportunity to return. 

Mr. Bishop visited the well on the 23d, and found 
that the men had proceeded but slowly. Tne rocks 
of lava, though hard, are cellular, so that powder has 
19* 



222 EVANGELICAL LABOURS, 

very little effect, and therefore they proceeded slow- 
ly by blasting it. 

The morning of the 24th was the Sabbath, and 
was unusually still. Not a canoe w^s seen in the 
bay, and the natives seemed to have left their cus- 
tomary labours and amusements to spend the day as 
directed by the Governor. Mr. Bishop spent half 
an hour with him this morning explaining in Eng- 
lish the 21st and 22d chapters of Revelations. At 
breakfast they were joined by Mr. Ellis, who had ar- 
rived about an hour before day light. He left To- 
waihae on the preceding day, at 6 in the morning, in 
a canoe, which had been kindly furnished by Mr. 
Young. 

About 9 A. M. he stopped at Kaparaoa, a small 
village on the beach containing 22 houses, where he 
found the people preparing their food for the ensuing 
day, on which day, they said, the Governor had sent 
word for them to do no work, neither cook any food. 
When the people were collected, Mr Ellis address- 
ed them, and after answering a number of inquiries 
respecting the manner in which they should keep 
the Sabbath day, he again embarked on board his 
canoe and sailed to Wainanarii, where he landed, re- 
paired to the house of Waipo, the chief, who, as 
soon as the object of his visit was known, went and 
directed the people to assemble at his house. After 
staying there till 2 P. M., he left them making pre- 
parations to keep th$ Sabbath day according to the 
orders they had received from the Governor. 

About 4 in the afternoon, he landed at Kihoro, ar 
considerable village inhabited principally by fisher- 
men. A number collected, to whom he preaehed a 
short discourse from I John i, 7. This village ex- 
hibits another monument of the genius of Tameha- 
meh^ A small bay, perhaps half a mile across, runs 
inland a considerable distance. From one side to 
the other of this bay, Tamehameha had built a strong 
stone wall, six feet high in some places,, and twenty 
feet wide^ by which; lie had aa excellent and extea- 



EVANGELICAL LABOURS. 223 

sive fish pond, not less than two miles in circumfer- 
ence. There were several arches in the wall, which 
were guarded by strong stakes, driven into the ground 
so far apart, as to admit the water of the sea, yet 
sufficiently close to keep any of the fish from escap- 
ing. It was well stocked with fish, and water-fowls 
were seen swimming about on its surface* 

Just before sunset, Mr. E left Kihoro. The man 
paddled the canoe past Laemano, (Sharks Point,) a 
point of land formed by the last eruption of the 
great crater on Mouna Huararai, which took place 
25 years ago. 

Between 7 and 8 in the evening, he reached Ka- 
tipulehu, where the men drew the canoe upon the 
beach, and as the inhabitants were all buried in 
sleep, laid down to repose on the sand till the moon 
should arise. About 11 P. M. the moon arose, 
when Mr. Ellis awoke his companion. They launch- 
ed the canoe, and, after paddling hard, reached Kai- 
rua at the time abovementioned. At breakfast the 
Governor seemed much interested in the narrative 
of the tour, particularly of the interview with the 
priestess of Pele at Waiakea. 

At half past ten, the bell rang for public worship,, 
and about 800 people, decently dressed, some in for- 
eign, others in native clothing, assembled under a 
large r&nai, (a place sheltered from the sun,) formed 
by two large canvass awnings, and a number of plat- 
ted cocoanut leaves, spread over the place, from 
posts fixed in the fence which encloses the court- 
yard around the house of the Governors wife, The 
Governor and his attendants sat on chairs. The rest 
of the congregation reclined on their mats, of sat on 
the ground. After singing and pr^er, Mr. Ellis 
preached from Acts xvi, 30, 31. The history of 
the Philippian jailor appeared to interest them much,, 
and after the conclusion of rhe service, the Govern 
nor, in particular, made many inquiries. At half past 
4 in the afternoon, the great bell rang again, and the 
people collected in the place where the sexviee^ had 



224 EVANGELICAL LABOURS. 

been conducted in the forenoon, and In equal num- 
bers seated themselves very quietly. The exercises 
commenced in the usual manner, and Mr. Ellis 
preached on the occasion from Acts v, 14. They 
were attentive, and the awful end of Ananias and 
Sapphira affected them. 

After the public exercises were finished, Mr. Bish- 
op accompanied Thomas Hopu to his house, where 
a small congregation was assembled for conversation 
and prayer. Mr. Bishop gave a short exhortation, 
which was interpreted by Thomas. Many of the 
people stopped after the service to hear more from 
Thomas about Jesus Christ. 

The Sabbath was spent in a manner truly gratify- 
ing. No athletic sports were seen on the beach. 
No noise of playful children, or distant sound of the 
cloth-beating mallet, was heard through the day. 
No persons were seen carrying burdens in or out the 
village, nor any canoes passing across the calm sur- 
face of the bay. It could not but be viewed as the 
dawn of a bright Sabbatic day for the dark shores of 
Hawaii. 

In the evening, family worship was conducted at 
the Governor's house, in the native language. His 
companions and domestics attended, and were pleas- 
ed with the singing. 

On the 27th, it was proposed to the Governor to 
have a public meeting, and a sermon, as was the prac- 
tice at Oahu; but he objected, saying that the people 
would not attend, and it was too soon yet to have 
preaching among them on week days. 

Having heard of the arrival of the brig Neo at 
Towaihae, Mr. Bishop left Kairua in the evening, to 
return to Oahu, while Mr. Ellis remained in order 
to preach to the Governor and hi3 people on the 
next Sabbath, expecting then to reach Towaihae in 
season to proceed to Oahu in the Neo. 

About noon on the 25th, Mr. Bishop reached Tow- 
aihae, and in the evening of the 30th they received 
the unexpected information, that the brig would sail 



THREE OF THE COMPANY SAIL FOR OAHU. 225 

that evening. Messrs. Bishop and Goodrich there- 
fore went on board the Neo, leaving Mr. Thurston 
at Towoihae, to preach to the people there the next 
day, which was the Sabbath, and afterwards join the 
vessel at the no rth point of the island, where it 
was going to take in some hogs for Karaimoku. 

On the 31st, Mr. Thurston preached twice at To- 
waihae to very attentive congregations, and with the 
labours of the day closed a month of toil and inter- 
est greater than any he had before spent in the Sand- 
wich Islands. 

Early on the 1st of September he left To waihae, 
ip a canoe furnished by Mr. Young, and, at 8 in the 
forenoon reached the place where the Neo was lying 
at anchor, on board of which he joined Messrs. Good- 
rich and Bishop, soon after which they weighed an- 
chor and made sail. When they left Hawaii, the 
master intended touching at Maui, but contrary winds 
obliged them to shape their course towards Oahu, 
where they safely arrived late^inf the evening of the 
3d, and had the satisfaction of finding the mission 
family in the enjoyment of comfortable health. 

The time, which Mr. Ellis spent at Kairua, was 
chiefly occupied in conversation with the governor 
on the history and traditions of the island, the advan- 
tages of instruction, and the blessings which the gen- 
eral adoption of Christianity would confer on the 
people. On this latter subject the Governor uni- 
formly expressed his conviction of its utility, and 
said, he had therefore sent a messenger round among 
the people, requesting them to cast away their for- 
mer evil practices, and keep the Sabbath according 
to the directions in the word of God, 

On the 29th he visited the well, and found the 
workmen had advanced about IS feet through hard 
lava. They had come to a stratum of scoria, and 
broken lava, which they found much easier to work. 
The Governor seemed determined to persevere, and 
said he would not give up till they found water either 
salt or fresh. 



226 EVANGELICAL LABOtTRS. 

The next day at noon, the Pilot-boat arrived at 
Kairua, on her way to Maui. When it first came to 
anchor, Kahiori, the master, said he should sail in 
the evening, but when Mr. Ellis told him he would 
go with him if he would wait till the Sabbath was 
over, he cheerfully agreed to do so. By hiai 
the Governor received a note on business, written by 
Kamakau, the interesting chief of Kaavaroa, which, 
after he had read it, he showed to Mr. Ellis, 
saying, that he admired the diligence and persever- 
ance of Kamakau, who, with very little instruction, 
had learned to wTite well. "This letter writing," 
added the Governor, "is a very good thing. I 
write to Kamakau, to any body at Oahu, or any 
where else; they write to me; it's just the same as if 
we talked together." 

The 31st was the Sabbath. The stillness of every 
thing around, the decent apparel of those who were 
seen passing and repassing, together with the num- 
bers of canoes all lying hauled up on the beach un- 
der the shade of the cocoanut, or kou tree, combin- 
ed to mark the return of the La tabu, or Sacred 
day. An unusual number attended family prayers, 
at the Governor's house in the morning; and at half 
past 10, the bell was rung for public worship. About 
800 people assembled under the ranai, and Mr. Ellis 
preached to them from Heb. xi, 7, and after a suc- 
cinct account of the deluge ? he endeavoured to ex- 
hibit the advantages of faith, and the consequences 
of wickedness and unbelief, in the declarations of 
Jehovah, as illustrated in the salvation of Noah, and 
the destruction of the rest of mankind. After the 
conclusion of the service, several persons present 
requested Mr. Ellis to stop till they had made some 
inquiries respecting the deluge, Noah, &c. They 
said they were informed by their fathers, that all the 
land had once been overflowed by the sea, except a 
small peak on the top of Mouna Kea, where two hu- 
man beings were preserved from the destruction that 
overtook the rest; but they said they had never be- 



EVANGELICAL LABOURS. 227 

fore heard of a ship, or of Noah, having always been 
accustomed to call it the Kai a Kahina'rii (Sea of 
Kahina'rii). After conversing with them some time, 
Mr. Ellis returned to the Governor's. The after- 
noon was principally employed in conversation with 
him on the flood, and the repeopling of the earth by ihe 
descendants of Noah. The Governor seemed to 
doubt whether it were possible that the Hawaiians 
were the descendants of Noah, but said he thought 
their progenitors must have been created on the 
islands, Mr. Ellis told him that the account in the 
Bible had every evidence to support it, that could 
be wished; referred him to his own traditions, not 
only of Hawaii's having been peopled by persons 
who came in canoes from some other country, but 
by their having in their turn visited other islands, 
and planted colonies as in the days of Kamapiikai; 
also to the superiority of their war canoes in former 
days; the resemblance in manners, customs, traditions 
and language, between themselves and other islanders 
in the Pacific, 3.000 miles distant; &c. 

The longevity of mankind in the days of Noah 
also surprised him. Comparing it with the period 
of human life at the present time, he said, "By and 
by men will not live more than 40 years." 

At half past four in the afternoon, the bell rang 
again, and the people collected, in number about 
equal to those who attended in the morning; and Mr. 
Ellis preached from these words, "Be ye not weary 
in well doing, for in due season ye shall reap if ye 
faint not." 

Numbers thronged the governor's house at even- 
ing worship. The conversation afterwards turned 
upon the identity of the body at the resurrection and 
the reward of the righteous in heaven. The Gov- 
ernor asked, if people would know each other in 
heaven, and when answered in the affirmative, said, 
he thought Christian relations would be very happy 
when they met together there. Some who were 
present asked, "If there is no eating and drinking, 



22S MR. ELLrs SAILS FROM HAWAII. 

or wearing of clothes in heaven, wherein does its 
goodness consist?" This was a natural question for a 
Hawaiian to ask, who never had an idea of happi- 
ness, except in the gratification of his natural appe- 
tites and passions. In answer to the question, they 
were, however, informed, that the joys of heaven 
were intellectual and spiritual, and would infinitely 
exceed, both in their nature and duration, every 
earthly enjoyment. At a late hour, Mr. Ellis took 
leave of the Governor and his family, thanking him, 
at the same time, for the hospitable entertainment 
they had received, and the great facilities he had af- 
forded them for accomplishing the objects of their 
visit. 

About 3 o'clock in the morning, Mr. Ellis was 
awaked by the shouts of the men, who were heaving 
up the anchor of the Pilot-boat. He repaired on 
board, and immediately afterwards they sailed with a 
gentle breeze from the land. The wind w r as light 
and baffling, and it was noon before they reached 
Towaihae, where he landed, with considerable dis- 
appointment that the Neo had sailed to Oahu. On 
landing he was welcomed by Mr, Young, with whom 
he stayed till the Pilot-boat was ready to sail for La- 
haina in Maui. Late in the evening of the 2d of 
September, afier preaching to the people of the place 
at Mr. Young's house, Mr. Ellis went again on board 
the Pilot-boat, but found her so full of sandal wood, 
that there was no room for any person below, while 
the decks were crowded with natives. The weather 
was unfavourable for getting under weigh till nearly 
day light, and every person on board w 7 as complete- 
ly drenched by the heavy rains, that fell during the 
night 

During the forenoon of the 3d, they drifted slowly 
along to the northward, and about noon took in 800 
dried fish, after which they made sail for Maui. 
The weather was warm, winds light, and all on board 
being obliged to keep on deck without any skreen 
or shade whatever, the situation was very uncom- 



ARRIVES AT HOttORTJRU. 229 

fortable. At 3, P. M. they took the channel breeze, 
which soon wafted across to the S. E. part of Maui. 
At sunset they were off Morokini, and were soon af- 
ter becalmed. The current, however, was in their 
favour through the night, and at daylight, on the 4th, 
they found themselves off the east end of the district 
of Lahaina, and about a mile distant from the shore. 
Many of the natives jumped into the sea and swam 
to the beach, holding their clothes with one hand 
over their heads, and swimming with the other. 

About 10 A. M a canoe came along side, in which 
Mr. Eilis went on shore, where he was welcomed by 
the mission family, and by Mr. Bingham, whom he 
found there on a visit. Soon after he had landed, 
Karaimoku arrived from Oahu, by whom he learned 
that Mrs. Ellis, though very ill, was better than she 
had been at some periods since his departure. 

Mr. Ellis waited on Keopuolani, the king's moth- 
er, whom he found sick. Karaimoku, Kaahumanu, 
Kalakua, and several other chiefs, were reclining 
around her weeping. After sometime Karaimoku 
proposed, that they should unitedly pray for her re- 
covery, and this proposal was acceded to. 

At 4, P. M. a corpse was brought to the place of 
worship, and, previously to its being interred, Mr. 
Ellis gave an exhortation to a great multitude of 
people. He afterwards visited the King, and Gover- 
nor Cox, by both of whom he was kindly received. 

At ten o'clock in the forenoon of the 9th, he took 
leave of his kind friends at Lahaina, and, in compa- 
ny with Messrs. Bingham and Richards, went on 
board the Tamahorolani, bound to Oahu. It was 
however 4 o'clock in the afternoon before the vessel 
hove up her anchor. They were then becalmed till 
9 in the eveaing, when a fresh breeze sprung up. 
They passed down the channel between Morokai 
and Ranai, and between 9 and 10 in the forenoon of 
the 10th, arrived off the harbour of Honoruru. 

On landing Mr. Ellis was grateful to meet his fam- 
ily in health and comfort, except Mrs. Ellis, who 
20 



230 GRATEFUL MENTION OF GOD ? S GOODNESS. 

was confined to her bed by severe indisposition. He 
united with Messrs. Thurston, Bishop and Goodrich, 
who had previously arrived, in erecting an Ebene- 
zer to the God of all their mercies, for the unremitted 
care and distinguishing goodness, which they had 
enjoyed, in the accomplishment of the interesting 
tour, from which, under circumstances of so much 
mercy, they had now returned. 



&Kftisni>&: 



NAMES, AND BRIEF NOTICES, OF PERSONS MENTIONED IN 
THE PRECEDING WORK. 

slkea, or Alkea; said to have been the first king of Ha- 
waii, and, after his death, to have descended to the lower re- 
gions, and founded a kingdom there. . See p. 157, 203. 

Araftai; a former king of Hawaii. 

Butter^ Mr.; an American resident on the islands. 
Caok y Capt.; for an account of his death, see p. 74. 

Haa; chief man of the valley of Waipio. 

Hoafiiri; husband of Keopuolani, the favourite wife of Ta- 
mehameha. 

Hoftu, Thomas; native assistant of the missionaries. He 
spent some years in the United States, where he acquired the 
English language, and, under the instruction of individuals, 
and at the Foreign Mission School in Cornwall, made some 
progress in the acquisition of knowledge. While in this 
country, he became hopefully pious, and was sent to his native 
islands in 1818, in connexion with the first mission. He has 
since been uniformly active and useful. 

Ihikaina; chief woman of Honokane. 

Kaahumanu; sister of Kuakini, the governourof Hawaii. 
She was one of the wives of the late Tamehameha, and pos- 
sesses more wealth and influence than any other woman on 
the islands 

Kahavari; once a chief of Puna. An interesting tradition- 
ary story of his encounter with Pele, the goddess of volcanoes, 
is contained in the journal, p. 168. 

Kahiora; native master of a vessel. 

Kaikioeva; one of the principal chiefs of the islands, and 
guardian to the young prince Kauikeouli. 

Kalukua; a wife of the late Tamehameha^. 



332 APPENDIX. 

Kamahoe; father of Hoapiri, and nearly related to the 
family, which was dispossessed by Tamehameha of the gov- 
ernment of Hawaii, p. 112. 

Kamakaakeakua, (the eye of god;) a distinguished sooth- 
sayer in the days of Tamehameha. He was priest of a heiau, 
or temple, on the summit of a lofty precipice overhanging the 
great volcano of Kirauea, p. 145. 

Kamakau; a chief of considerable rank and influence. For 
a particular account of him, see, p. 30. 
Kamauokalani; the mother of Karaimoku. 
Kanakawahine; the wife of Kahavari. 
Kanewahineheaho; the sister of Kahavari. 
Xanana; wife of Teraiopu, a former king, of Hawaii. 
Kaohe; one of the children of Kahavari. 
Kaoreioku; youngest son of Taraiopu, a former King of 
Hawaii. 

Kafiihi, or Kafiihe; a native priest, who told Tamehameha 
that, at death, he should see all his ancestors, and that here- 
after all the kings, chiefs, and people of Hawaii would live 
again, p. 81. 
Karaikoa; chief man of Opihikao. 

Karaimoku, frequently called Billy Pitt; the principal 
chief of the islands. He has uniformly favoured the object 
of the missionaries. 

Kauikeouli, or Kivaraao ; eldest son and successor of Ta- 
raiopu, and cousin to Tamehameha. In the year 1780, a great 
battle was fought between Kauikeouli and his cousin, in which 
the latter was victorious. This battle is described in the 
journal, p. 81. 

Keakealani; an ancient queen of Hawaii. 
Keariikuku; an ancient king of Hawaii. 
Keave; an ancient king of Hawaii. 

Keaveaheuru; the father of Naihe, present chief of Kaa- 
varoa. 

Keeaumoku; Tamehameha's principal general. He com- 
manded in the decisive battle with Kauikeouli; and was the 
father of Kuakini, Kaahumanu and Piia, p. 81. It was he, who 
assassinated Keoua, a rival of Tamehameha, p. 112. 

Kekauruohe; a. daughter of Tamehameha. She was de- 
signed by her father for a wife to Pomare, king of the Society 
Islands, but was never sent. p. 50, also, p. 39. 
Kekauonohi; a niece of Karaimoku. 

Kekuaokalani; cousin of Rihoriho. In consequence of the 
abolition of idolatry in 1819, he revolted against his cousin. 
An account of a decisive battle between him and Karaimoku, 
commander of the king's forces, in which Kekuaokalani was 
slain, may be found at p. 69. 

Keofiuolani; the favourite wife of Tamehameha, and mother 
of Rihoriho. She was descended from the kings of Hawaii. 
Her decease took place in 1823, after she had given much 
evidence of piety. A memoir of her, written by one of the 



APPENDIX. 



233 



missionaries at Lahaina, has since been published at the same 
office with this work See p. 44 and 45. 

Keoua; the youngest son of Taraiopu. Being defeated ia 
battle in 1789, bv the warriors of Tamehameha, he was in- 
duced to go to Kairua for the purpose of surrendering him- 
self to that king, where he was assassinated by Keeaumoku, 
p. 110. 

Keoua; wife of Kuakini. 

Keoua; governor of Lahaina. 

Kevaheva, or (as it should be spelled,) Hevaheva; chiet 
priest before the overthrow of idolatry. It was he, who re- 
commended to Rihoriho to abolish the national idolatry. 

Kinao; chief of Puna. 

Koae; sister of Kahavari. 

Koronohairaau; father of Kahavari. 

Kuakini; usually called by foreigners John Jdams, from his 
having adopted the name of a former President of the United 
States of America. Kuakini is the governor of Hawaii. 

Kumuokafliki, (stump of cabbage;) chief of Waimea. 

Jttaaro; chief of Waiakea. 

Makoa; guide to the deputation. An amusing description 
of him is given at p. 63. 

Maruae; chief of Kaaraara. 

Manona; wife of Kekuaokalani. In battle she fought he- 
roically by her husband's side, and fell dead upon his lifeless 
body, p. 70,71. 

Mauae; a young man, who accompanied the deputation 
part of the way round the island. A very interesting account 
of his interview with his relatives at Kaimu, mav be found 
at p. 155. 

Maukareoreo; a fabled giant, p. 85. 

Miomioi; a friend and favourite of Tamehameha. 

Miru; second king of Hawaii. He is said to have descended 
to the lower regions, at his death, and to have shared domin- 
ion with Akea, who had previously established a kingdom 
there. Miru is the Pluto of Hawaii, p. 204. 

Naihe; one of the chiefs of the Sandwich Islands. He is 
a great friend to the objects of the missionaries; and his wife, 
Kapiolani, is esteemed truly pious. 

Narimaerua; the man who slew Kauikeouli. 

Oani; a priestess of Pele. An animated dialogue with her 
may be found at p., 177. 

Pai; chief man of Waiohinu. 

Parker, Mr.; an American resident on the islands. 

Pauahi; a wife of Rihoriho. 

Paufiouru; a child of Kahavari. 

Pita; sister of Kuakini and Kaahumanu. She possesses a 
very serious, inquiring mind, and is a great friend to the 
objects of the missionaries. 

Pomare; king of the Society Islands. During his reign, 
and through the sole instrumentality of missionary efforts, one 
20* 



234 APPENDIX. 

of the most wonderful religious and moral changes took 
place among the people of those islands, that has been wit- 
nessed in any country, or any age. Pomare is not now liv- 
ing. 

Rihoriko, sometimes called Tamehameha II; king of the 
Sandwich Islands. He succeeded his father, Tamehameha 
I, in 1819, and, in the summer of 1824, died in London, whith- 
er he had gone, principally that he might become more ac- 
quainted with the world. A younger brother succeeds to the 
government on his decease. 
Riroa; king of Hawaii, about fourteen generations back. 
Rono, or Orono; a king of Hawaii, during what may be 
called its fabulous age. He has been worshipped as a god, 
p. 75. 

Taiana; the commander of Tamehameha's forces, who de- 
feated Keoua, p. 111. 

Tamehameha; father of Rihoriho, and king of the Sand- 
wich Islands. His authority was originally confined to two 
districts on Hawaii. But in 1780, he rebelled against his 
cousin Kauikeouli, the king of the island, who had been on 
the throne only two years, and slew him in a sanguinary bat- 
tle. See p. 81 . He then conquered Maui, where Keopuolani, 
a grand daughter of Taraiopu, fell into his hands as a prisoner, 
and was soon made his wife. Afterwards he subdued Oahu; 
and thus became monarch of all the islands, except Tauai: 
and even this island made ultimately some acknowledgment 
of his supremacy. A good description of the character of 
Tamehameha is given at p. 212 — 214 

Tamafiuaa; the fabled centaur of Hawaii; a gigantic ani- 
mal, half dog and half man. For an account of his contest 
with Pele, the goddess of volcanoes, see p. 140. 

Tanakini; one of the former kings of Hawaii. 

Tafiuahi; chief man of Kapapala. 

Taraiopu, or Taraniobu, (the Terreoboo of Capt. Cook;) 
King of Hawaii, at the time it was discovered by Capt. Cook. 
He was not accessary to the death of that celebrated navi- 
gator, though it took place in his presence, see pp. 74, 75. 

Taua; a native teacher, who accompanied Mr. Ellis from 
Huahine. He was connected with the retinue of Keopuolani, 
and is described as being faithful in his appropriate duties. 

Taumuarii, or Tamoree; king of Tauai. . He died at 
Oahu, May 26, 1824. As a ruler of an unevangelised, uncivil- 
ized people, he may be regarded as having sustained, for a 
number of years previous to his decease, a character of un- 
common respectability. His death was thus noticed by the 
missionaries, in their journal. — "We will sing of mercy and 
of judgment. Tamoree, the uniform and generous friend and 
patron of the missionaries, the father, benefactor, and coun- 
sellor of his people, whom we regard as a humble disciple of 
the Lord Jesus, has fallen asleep, and his spirit, we trust, now 
rejoices before the throne, with that of Obookiah, Keopuolani, 



APPENDIX. 235 

and other happy first fruits from among the heathen. Previ- 
ous to his last illness, he had, in several religious conference 
meetings, humbly and impressively exhorted the people to 
deep repentance, and thorough reformation, and a sincere and 
hearty turning to the Lord Jehovah; and, in his dying charge, 
earnestly recommended to the chiefs the religion of Christ, 
as being* his only trust. He was first attacked with pleurisy 
uncommonly severe, but when that yielded to proper applica- 
tions, a diarrhoea succeeded, which proved fatal." Missiona- 
ry Herald, vol. xxi, pp. 139, 140. A memoir of Taumuarii 
is preparing at the islands. 

Teavemauhiri; one of the former kings of Hawaii. 

Tuite; chief man of Kauru. 

Umi; an ancient king of Hawaii. He is said to have sacri- 
ficed, on one occasion, upwards of eighty of his followers 
to Kuahiro, his god, p. 201. The giant Maukareoreo was one 
of his followers, p. 65. 

Vancouver; a celebrated navigator, who visited the Sand- 
wich Islands, and is remarkable for the accuracy of his 
surveys 

Young, Mr. J.; an Englishman, who has resided many 
years on the island, p. 51. 



ii. 



NAMES OF PLACES MENTIONED IN THE PRECEDING WORK, 
WITH BRIEF NOTICES OF SOME OF THEM. 

[The figures denote the page, where the principal notice of the place may be 
found.] 

Borabora; the name given to the Society Islands, by the 
Sandwich islanders, p. 50. Borabora is the name of one of 
the Society Islands. 

Bukohola; name of a heiau, or temple, p. 57. 

Buukea; name of an eminence, 170. 

Fatuhiva, (La Magdalena;) one of the Marquesas, 188. 

Georgian Islands; p. 50. A group of islands in the South 
Pacific. The inhabitants of this group have been evangelized 
bv means of missionary efforts. See Missionary Herald 
vol. xxi, pp. 291— 297. 

Halaua; the original inheritance of Tamehameha, 212* 
Hale o Tairi, (House of Tairi;) name of a heiau, 66. 
Hamakua; one of the six divisions of Hawaii, 193. 
Hare o Keave, (House of Keave;) an ancient burying 
place of kings. 84. 
Hawaii, or Owhyhee; the largest of the Sandwich Islands. 



236 APPENDIX. 

'It contains about 4,000 square mites, and about 85,000 inhab- 
itants. 

Hihiu; 215. 

Hilra; 110. 

Hiro; one of the six divisions of Hawaii, 56. 

Jiokukano; 7j>. 

Honaunau; once a residence of the Hawaiian kings. It 
is noted for the ruins of the royal burying place of Hawaii, 
and of one of the two Puhcnuas, or Cities of refuge, which 
once were a sure defence to all who entered them. 84 — 89. 

Honokea; 210. 

Honokoa; 51. 

Honomallvo; 94. 

Honoruru; 172. This is not to be confounded with a place 
of the samt* name onOahu, where is a missionary station. 

Honuaino; 73. 

Honuapo; worthy of notice on account of the interest felt 
by its inhabitants in the instructions of the missionaries, 106 
—108. 

Honuaura; 166. 

Horuaroa; 66. 

Hua/rine; 41. The most easterly and largest island in the 
group, which is properly called the Society Islands. Mr. El- 
lis spent five years on this island, previous to his removal to 
the Sandwich Is ands; and during his residence there witness- 
ed a most surprising change in the character and condition of 
the inhabitants. See Missionary Herald, vol. xxi, pp. 284 — 
287, and 290—297.' 

Huar ai; 219. 

Huararai; st mountain of Hawaii. Estimated height about 
8,000 feet, 59. 

Humuula; & retired little village at the foot of Mouna 
Kea, commended for its hospitality, 192. 

Kaahua; 195. 

Kaaraara; 115. 

Kaaic; an extensive and populous village in the division of 
Puna. A fine rapid stream runs through the place. 173. 

Kaavaroa; a village on the northern shore of Kearake'kua 
bay, memorable as the place where Capt. Cook was killed, 
p. 74. Naihe, Kapiolani his wife, and Kamakau, the friends 
and patrons of missionary efforts, reside here; and since the 
tour was performed, a missionary station has been here es- 
tablished, 78. 

Kahalu; 67. 

Kahuwaii; 172. 

Kaimu; a pleasant village near the sea-shore, on the south- 
east side of the island. It contains over 700 inhabitants, has 
a fine sandy beach, and is adorned with plantations, p 160. 
The effects of a recent earthquake were here observed, p. 
158. A beautiful specimen of native manners was also wit- 
nessed, 155. 

Kairua; the principal place on the island, and the seat of 



APPENDIX. 237 

its government. Population, 2,600. Kairua is on the western 
shore, pp. 18, 34. A missionary establishment has been 
formed here. 

Kalahiti; p. 92. A singular method of denoting grief, was 
here witnessed. 

Kalaloa; 217. 

Kalama; 78. 

Kalafiana; 154. 

Kalehu; 101. 

Kamaiti; 163. 

Kamomoa; 154, 

Kanekaheilani; a heiau, 200 feet square, 66. 

Kaafiaau; 214. 

Kafiafiala; pp. 115, 151. A singular instance of favourit- 
ism was here seen, 116. 

Kafiaraoa; 222. 

Kafiauku; 105. 

Kafiua; 93. 

Kafiuahi; 122. 

Kafiulena; p. 196. Here the company divided, a part 
crossing the island to Waimea. 

Karama; 32. 

Karefia; an ancient heiau, formerly dedicated to Tu and 
Rono, 163. 

Karuaokalani; (the second heaven;) 65. 

Kau; one of the six greater divisions of Hawaii; including 
about 40 miles of sea-coast on the southeast. Marks of 
great natural convulsions were seen in this division, 95. 

Kauaea; 164. 

Kauaikahaora; a heiau 150 feet by 70, built of very large 
blocks of lava, 64. 

Kaujiulehu; 223. 

Kaura; name of a valley, 194. 

Kauru; a. small village environed with plantations, 101. 

Kaverohea; a rock superstition sly regarded by the natives, 
106. 

Kea; a mountain on Hawaii, ascended by Mr. Goodrich and 
others, pp. 218, 219. Elevation estimated at 15,000, or 
16,000 feet, 147. 

Keahialaka; 164. 

Keanaee; a singular vaulted avenue, formed by the lava, 
89—91. 

Keanakakoi; name of a crater, 149. 

Keafiuana; a large cave used by travellers as a lodging- 
place, 123. 

Kearakaha; 195. 

Kearake'kua bay; 78. 

Kearakomo; 149. 

Keauhou; 68. 

Keavaiti; 96. 

Keei; 79. 

Kehena; a village of fishermen. The natives are obliged 



238 APPENDIX. 

to land their canoes, by raising them 40 feet perpendicular 
height, 162. 

Keokoa; 89. 

Kihoro; 222. Here is an artificial fish pond, two miles m 
cicumference, made by Tamehameha, 

Kiloa; 78. 

Kiolaakaa; 104. 

Kijii; 216. 

Kirauea; a. great volcano on Hawaii, situated at the foot of 
Mouna Roa, and very fully described in the journal, 129 — 
147. 

Kiraueaiti, or Little Kirauea; 145. 

Kohala; one of the six divisions of Hawaii, 50. 

Kokukano; 109. 

Koloaha; 196. 

Kona; one of the six divisions of Hawaii, 94. 

Kafioho, (the sunken in;) a beautiful valley, supposed once 
to have been a crater. At the bottom is a peaceful lake, 166 
—168. 

Koroa; the name of a beach, to the stones of which singu- 
lar properties are by the natives attributed, 113. 

Kukii; 170. 

Kukuwau; 187. 

Aula; a romantic spot, famed in Hawaiian tradition, 168. 

Kupahua; 154. 

Laemano, (Shark's Point;) a point of land formed by the 
last eruption of the larger crater on Mouna Huararai, about 
25 years ago, 223. 

Lahaina; the principal district in Maui, p. 40. A missiona- 
ry station has been formed here. 

Laujiahoehoe ; 192. 

JLeapuki; 154. 

Mairikini; name of a heiau, 53. 

Mahuka; a place where the lava is said lately to have car- 
ried an immense rock into the sea. 151. 

Makaaka; 114. 

Makanau; here Keoua, the last rival of Tamehameha, 
surrendered himself to the' warriors of that king, 110. 

Makena; 159. 

Ma lama; 166. 

Manienie; 195. 

Mariu; 166. 

Marquesian Islands; 107. In the S. Pacific. The inhab- 
itants are to the natives of the other islands, in many respects, 
what the French people are to the other nations of Europe. 

Maui; one of the Sandwich Islands, 40 — 50. 

Maukareoreo; the residence of a celebrated giant of that 
name, 65. 

Mokuo/iai; the scene of a decisive battle, in 1780, between 
Tamehameha and his cousin Kauikeouli. 81. 

Morokai; one of the Sandwich Islands, 24. 



APPENDIX. 239 

JVa/w/io; a village in the valley of Waipio, 199. 

New Zealand; 107. Two islands in the S. Pacific, east of 
New Holland. The northern is about 600 miles in length, 
with an average breadth of 150; and the southern is nearly 
as large. They are divided by a narrow strait. The Church, 
Missionary Society, and English Wesleyan Methodists, have 
missionaries here. 

Ninole; a small village celebrated for its pebly beach, 113. 

Oahu; one of the Sandwich Inlands. 

Ohiaotelani; the northern peak in Kirauea, 177. 

Ofiihikao; 163. 

Ora; 175. 

Ouli; 217. 

Owawarua; 215. 

Pahoehoe; 67. 

Pakarana; the puhonua, or place of refuge, for the north- 
ern part of Hawaii, 202. 
Pakiha; name of a large heiau, 65. 

Pafiafiohaku; 102. 
Paraoa; 112. 
Patini; 98. 

Poiulu; a pleasant village in a valley between elevated 
mountains. 211.* 
Ponahohoa; noted forks burning chasm, 117 — 120. 
Puako; 218. 

Puakokoki; the place where Keoua was defeated by Ta- 
mehameha's forces, 111. 
Pualaa; 164. 
Pueo; 183. 

Puhonuas; places of refuge, analogous, in some respects, to 
those established among the ancient Israelites. There were 
two on Hawaii, 86, 202. 
Pukalani; 217. 
Pulana; 154. 

Puna; one of the six divisions of Hawaii, 56. 
Punaruu; 146. 
Punau; 154. 
Puukafiu; 217. 

Ranai; one of the Sandwich Islands, 39. 
Raniakea; the name of a subterranean tunnel, 25. 
Roa; a mountain on Hawaii. Height estimated at 15,000, 
or 16,000 feet. 147. 
Ruafiua; 54. 

Sandwich Islands; These are ten in number bearing the fol- 
lowing names; viz: Hawaii, Maui, Tahurawa, Ranai, M or o- 
kai, Oahu, Tauai, Niihau, Taura, and Morokini. These 
islands are situated in the Pacific Ocean, between 18" 50' and 

* There must be an error in that part of the Journal, to which reference is here 
made. Probably the height of the mountains, was 5,000 feetj instead of 500, 
which is but a small elevation. 



240 APPENDIX. 

22° 20' north latitude, and 154° 55 r and 160° 15' west longi- 
tude from Greenwich. They are extended in a direction 
W. N. W. and E. S. E., Hawaii being the southeastern island. 
The estimated length, breadth, and superficial contents, of 
each island, is as follows: 





Length. Breadth. 


Squ 


are Miles. 


Hawaii, 


97 miles, . . 78 




4,000 


Maui, 


.48 . . 29 




600 


Tahurawa, 


. 11 ... 8 




60 


Ranai. 


17 9 




100 


Morokai, 


40 . . . 7 , 


. 


170 


Oahu, 


46 23 


. 


520 


Tauai, . 


. 33 . 28 . 


. 


520 


Niihau, 


20 7 




80 


Taura. m | Little rnore than barren rocks. 
Morokmi, 3 







Society Islands. Islands in the South Pacific; viz. Hua- 
hine, Raiatea, Taha, Borabora, Tubui, and Marua. These 
have all been evangelized. See Missionarv Herald, vol. xxi, 
pp. 291—297. 

Tahaurawe; a small island on the south side of Maui, 24. 

Tahiti; 49. The largest of the Georgian Islands. It is 
now, through missionary exertions, a Christian island. 

Tairitii; 97. 

Tauai; one of the Sandwich Islands. A missionary sta- 
tion is on this island. 

Taumoarii; 195. 

Tuamoo; scene of the battle between Kekuaokalani and 
the forces of Rihoriho, occasioned by the abolition of idola- 
try in 1819, pp. 69—72. 

Waiakea; an extensive district on a bay of the same name, 
185—188. A missionary station has been formed here. 

Tfaiakoa; 217. 

Waikala; 217. 

Waimanu; a beautiful valley, 207. 

Waimea; 218. 

Waiohinu; 104. 

Waifiio; a beautiful valley, 193—205. 

Waifiunaula; 78. 

Wairuku; the name of a river, formerly distinguished by 
extensive markets, or fairs, which were held at stated inter- 
vals on its banks. Here also a toll was once paid by travel- 
lers, who passed over. See p. 183 — 184. 



APPENDIX. 241 



III. 



NAME OF THE FORMER GODS OF HAWAII, MENTIONED IN 
THE JOURNAL. 

Hiatahoiteporiofiele, (the cloudholder embracing or kiss- 
ing the bosom of Pele,) p. 138. 

Hiatanoholani, (heaven-dwelling cloud-holder,) 138. 

Hiataofiio, (young cl 0116^:1 older,) 13S. 

JJiatataaravamata, (quick-glancing eyed cloudholder,) 138. 

Hiatatabuenaena, (the red hot mountain holding or lifting 
clouds,) 138. 

Hiatatareiia, (the wreath or garland-encircled cloudhold- 
er,) 138. v 

Hiatawawahilani, (heaven-rending cloudholder,) 138. 

The above are represented to be sisters, who, with many 
others in their train, came from Tahiti, a foreign country, 
shortly after the Taiahahin'rii, or deluge of the Sandwich 
Islands, and took up their abode in Kirauea, the great volca- 
no, 138, 139. 

Hina; goddess of fishermen, 64. 

Ramohoarii; 138. 

Kanenuiakea, (great and wide-spreading Kane) 64. 

Kaneruruhonua, (earth -shaking Kane,) 64. 

Keave; supposed to have been anciently king of Hawaii. 
He was regarded as the protecting deity of the Puhonua, or 
City of Refuge, at Honaunau, 84 — 87. 

Kekuaaimanu; 64. 

Kuuara; god of fishermen, 64. 

Makorewaivaliiwaci) (fiery-eyed canoe breaker,) 138. 

Nahoaarii; 100. 

Pele; the principal goddess of volcanoes. Much fear seems 
still to be entertained of this imaginary deity, by the people 
of Hawaii. 

Rono^ or Orono; a king of Hawaii during what may be 
termed its fabulous age. Having slain his wife, he became 
deranged, and set off in a canoe for a foreign country, and was 
deified by his countrymen. Capt. Cook was at first supposed 
by the natives to be the god Rono returned to the islands. 
See pp. 75, 76. 

Roramakarha; 64. 

Tairi, or Kukairimoku; the favourite war-god of Tameha- 
meha, 52. 

Tanaroa; 161. 

Tane; he appears to have been one of the gods of the So 
ciety, as well as of the Sandwich, Islands, 66 and 161. * 
21 



242 



APPENDIX. 



Tanehetiri, (husband of thunder, or thundering Tane,) 138. 
TafiQhaitahi > roa, (the explosion of the place of life,) 138. 
Teuaate/io, (the rain of night,) 138. 
Tu; 161, 

Ukanifio; a shark, 73. 



IV. 



ABSTRACT OF A METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL, KEPT AT HO- 

NORURU, ON THE ISLAND OF OAHU, BY THE 

AMERICAN MISSIONARIES. 

The Journal is complete, for every day in the period be- 
tween August 1821 and July 1822, inclusive, noting the height 
of the mercury in Fahrenheit's thermometer, at 8 A. M., and 
at 3 and 8 P. M., with the course of the wind, and the state of 
the weather. It was not consistent with the prescribed lim- 
its of this volume to give this document entire; neither, for 
practical purposes, is it necessary. The abstract has been 
made with some care, and is put into the tabular form, as 
affording the greatest facilities for examination and compari- 
son. 



Months. 
August, 1821. 
September, 
October, 
November, 
December, 
January, 1822. 
February, 
March, 
April, 
May, 
June, 
July, 











?1 


( 


=9 


1 
--3 


4! 

4 


General 
range. 


"5 Si, 

g 

*> 


General 

course of 

ivind. 


88 Q 


74° 


14<j 


75°to85° 


~79* 


N. E. 


87 


74 


13 


76 — 84 


78 


N. E. 


86 


73 


13 


76 83 


73 


N. E. 


82 


71 


11 


75 80 


76 


N. E. 


80 


62 


18 


70 — ?8 


72 


N..&N.E. 


80 


59 


24 


68 7r> 


70 


Variable, j 


77 


61 


16 


68 75 


71 


N. E. 


78 


66 


12 


71 75 


72 


N. E. 


81 


62 ' 19 


72 78 


73 


Variable. 


81 


72 


9 


75- — 80 


76 


N. E. 


84 


71 


13 


76—31 


78 


N. E. 


84 


74 


10 


76—83 


78 


N. E. 


88° 


61° 


r. 


70 Q to83o 


75° 


N. E. 



General state of the weather 



Clear; rain but once. 
Rained on five days. 
Clear; ram but once. 
Clear; rain but once. 
Clear; rain twice. 
Rain 1 day; 7 others cloudy. 
Rain4 days: 10 others cloudy. 
Rain5 daj T s; 8 others cloudy. 
Rain5daysj 12 others cloudy. 
Rain 4 days; 3 others cloudy. 
Cloudy six days. 
Rain.5day r s;7 others cloudy. 

Rain on 40 days; generally 
clear at other times, 



Result for 7 
the year, j 

The rain came fron the north-east, north, north-west, south- 
west, south and east; but more frequently from the south, and 
still more so from the north-east, with the trade winds. 



APPENDIX. 



243 



I. The alphabet of the Hawaiian language. 

Vowels. — A, e, i, o, u. A is sounded as in father; e, as in 
the French word lete; i, as in marine; o, as in over; u, as in 
rule. Examples:— la, the sun; hemo, cast off; marie, quiet; 
ono, sweet; nui, large. 

Consonants— 6, d, h, k, I, m,n, fi, r, t, v, w; which are 
named, be, cle, he, Are, la, mu y nu,fii, ro,ti, vi, %ve. 

The following consonants are used in spelling foreign words; 
— -J, g, s, y; named/a, ga, sa, ye. 

'Diphthongs.— Ae, al,ao,au, ti, eu, ou. Ae is sounded as in 
ayes; ai % as in aisle, or idol; ao, as a in far, followed closely 
by o; au, as ow in vow; ei as in eight, nearly; eu, as a in late, 
followed by oo; ou, as o followed closely by oo. Examples:— 
ae, yes; ai, food; ao, bread; pau, all; lei', beads; weuweu, grass; 
lakou, they. 

This alphabet is formed on the principles laid down by the* 
Hon. ^ohn Pickering, of Salem, Mass. in his ,lt Essay on a 
Uniform Orthography for the Indian languages of North 
America," published in the Memoirs of the American Acad- 
emy of Arts and sciences. 

Interchangeable letters. — On the interchangeable 
nature of several letters of the Hawaiian alphabet, the Rev. 
Artemas Bishop, one of the American Missionaries at the 
Sandwich Islands, thus writes to an officer of the Board of 
Foreign Missions. u The use of an /, or an r, in any word 
where one of these letters is used, conveys precisely the same 
meaning. Thus, aroha or aloha (love,) will be equally well 
understood. The same may be said with regard to the k and 
t, the v and w, the b and fi. Tabu or kabu, (forbidden,) 
Hawaii or Havaii, (the proper name of the island,) pure or 
pule, bureov bule, (prayer,) are equally intelligible to the na- 
tives." 

The following extract from the Grammar of the Tahitian 
language, published by the Missionaries at the Society Islands, 
exhibits a characteristic in the alphabet of that language, 
analogous to the one above described. 

"Some of the Tahitian consonants are often exchanged; 
as f for /;, and h for f, in a considerable number of verbs, 
when the prefixes faa or haa occur. In some instances, also, 
the r is pronounced as if it were a d, as in raro, riro, 8cc. 
which Europeans have often supposed to be pronounced da- 
ro, rido, 8cc. Sometimes the r and the n seem to be exchang- 
ed, as ramu, namu. But what is most remarkable in the pro- 
nunciation of the Tahitian consonants, is the universal prac- 
tice of confounding b and fi, d and t; and it is a fact, that 
scarce a Tahitian can be found, who is able to distinguish be- 



244 APPENDIX. 

tween them. In spelling or pronouncing the letters singly, 
they run all the fi's into b, and all the £'s into d; but in speak- 
ing they immediately turn most of them into ft and t; and 
there is hardly a Tahitian word, in which it can be said, 
that b and d are uniformly used." 

It may be proper to add, that both in the Hawaiian and 
Tahitian languages, every syllable, and every word, ends with 
a vowel. Accordingly Mr. Ellis has observed, that the Ta- 
hitians never could pronounce his name, which ends with a 
consonant; and moreover, that as they cannot sound the 
consonant s at all, they used to pronounce his name in three 
syllables, RlikL 

II. A VOCABULARY OF THE HAWAIIAN LANGUAGE. 

A larger vocabulary, from which the following was com- 
piled, was prepared by Mr. Bishop, the American Missiona- 
ry at the Sandwich Islands who has already been named. 
A copy of the original manuscript was procured by Mr. 
Pickering, early in the present year- (1825,) and by him has 
been obligingly lent, for the purpose of making the selections 
which are here given, and which would have been more ex- 
tended, had the prescribed limits of the volume permitted. 
The words in small capitals are such as are contained in the 
list of radical words, made by the Empress Catherine of 
Russia, and forming the basis of her great Vocabularhun 
Comfiarativum. Where there are several English words cor- 
responding to the Hawaiian, the one that is in the list of th^ 
Empress, is in Italics. 

A and. 

Arakou to drag. 

Ake to desire. 

Aki to bite, as, to bite off thread. 

A-a • a stone, stony. 

Amita to desire food or drink, 

Aaa, social, friendly, hospitable. 

Ae yes. 

Ai n. food x>, to eat. 

Ai the neck. 

Aia there. 

Ao bread, daylight, the world, a handle. 

Au «, current, tide, v. to swim. 

Au I. 

Anau to bathe, to wash. 

Aihamu to eat voraciously the refuse food. 

Aihue "v* to steal, n. sl thief. 

Aikane a friend of the same sex, who is in the 
habit of giving and receiving on 
terms of friendship and civility. 

Aina land, island, country, farm, lot. 



APPENDIX. 



245 



Aipupuu 

Aulana 

Aono 

Aohe 

Aumoe 

Aupuni 

Auivae 

Aha 

Ahaolclo- 

Ahi 

Ahiahi 

Ahitu 

Aho 

Ahufiuaa 

Akaaka 

Akahi 

Akaka 

Akamai 

Akea 

Akolu, or AKORU 

Akua 



Akua lafiu 

Ala 

Alala 

Alakai 

Alana 

Alani 

Ale 

Alelo 

Alii ovarii 

Alima, or ARIMA 

Alua, or ARUA 

Ana 

Aniani 

Ano 

Ana hura 

Anuenue 

Apopo 

Aroha 



Aroha oe 

Ava 

Awawa 

AVARU 



one who serves another for his food, a 

servant, 
above. - 
six. 
not. 

midnight, or a very late hour, 
kingdom, state of peace, . undisturbed 

state of a nation, 
the chin, 
sour. 

judgment, 
lire, 
evening. 

the breath, patience, kindness, forbear 
ance. 

a city, or village. 

plain, clear, intelligible. 

one, first. 

to cleanse. 

sagacious, skilful, expert, wise, intelli- 
gent, ingenious, artful. 

wide, broad. 

three, third. 

a deity, God, spirit, any supernatural 
being, any object of religious hom- 
age. 

an evil spirit, the devil {Kebilo.) 

to wake, to watch, to be careful. 

to cry. 

to lead, to conduct, to guide. 

an offering. 

the orange. 

a wave, a billow. 

the tongue. 

king, chief, &c. 

five. 

two. 

cavern, cave, sepulchre. , 

glass. 

now. 

a period of ten days. 

the rainbow. 

tomorrow. 

the common salutation at meeting and 
parting; affection, love, gratitude, 
thanks, sympathy, pity, grief. 

love to you, pence to you. 

a -valley, a harbour, a passage between 
two reefs. 

a valley. 

eignt. 

21 * 



246 



APPE NDIX. 



Bono, or fiono true, right, straight,, correct, proper. 

Baka tobacco. 

Boti a boat. 

Buke a book. 

E Yes; in answer to a question, and in ac- 
knowledging the common salutation. 

JEe to mount, to leap upon. 

Eeu ready, quick \ expert, diligent; also 
foolhardy, headstrong, &c. 

JSu to go 9 to march. 

Eha four. 

Ekeu a wing. 

Ekekeu a pair of wings. 

Emo — A slow. 

Emoore shortly, soon. 

Haahe proud, magnificent. 

H aawi to give, to forgive. 

Hae a flag, the colours of a ship* 

Hai to tell, to relate. 

Haihai joyful. 

Mao iron. 

Haumana scholar, disciple. 

Haka lord, chief. 

Hale house. 

Ha Hi to spread a table. 

Hanai to feed. 

Hanaa to be born. 

Hanika a handkerchief. 

Hanvanva foolish. 

Jfea, or Hahea to call. 

Heao v. to learn, n. a cloud. 

Heamihi good. 

Heina drink. 

Hekili thunder. 

Heleama an anchor, 

He* In moka a ship -captain. 

He oho hair. 

Hewa, or heva wrong, improper, sinful, n. sin, error. 

Hewila lightning. 

Hiamoe to sleep. 

Hiafio only begotten. 

Hiilani to exalt. 

Hiu a sail. 

Hinana a. basket. 

Hoahanau a cousin; relative. 

Hoeule rudder, helm. 

Hoka, or hota a star. 

Honi to join noses. 

Honua earth. 

Horoi to wash. 



APPENDIX. 



247 



Hoomakaukau 

Hokeke 

Hue 

Ia 

Iako 
Ihe 
Ihea 
Iho 

I/iomai 

Ihu 

Iole 

Ikaikciy or itaitai 

Ike 



Ilaida, or ilaila) t ^ ere> 



to prepare, 
cold, shivering, 
a thief. 

Jish; also, he, she y it. ( 

forty. 

a spear. 

when. 

v, to descend; adv. recently, lately, 
just now. 

to descend. 

the nose. Ihu loihi, long nose. 

mouse. 

strong, powerful. 

to see, to perceive, to know, to under- 
stand . Ua ike iho nei au i kafialafia- 
la; I have just seen your letter. Ua 
ike au a fiau roa i kopalafiala; 1 un- 
derstand even all your letter. 



Iraida, or IRAIRAJ 




iLiahi 


sandal -wood. 


ILI 


skin, bark, rind. 


Ilio 


a dog. 


Ilo 


a worm. 


Imo 


to search, to seek. 


Imua 


before. 


Inaina 


to hate, to be angry. 


Ineina 


to despise. 


Inehinei 


yesterday. 


Ino 


adj bad, vile, wicked, sinful. w.iniquit) 




depravity; also, a blow, a squall, a 




storm. 


Inoino 


very bad. 


Inoa 


a name. 


Inu 


to drink. E inu oukou i ka waiono; 




drink ye the good water. 


Ivi, or iwi 


bone, shell, the hard part of a cane. 


Ivifio 


the skull. 


Kai 


n. the sea. adj. great, intense. 


Kaikaike 


powerful. 


Kaikaine 


a younger brother. 


Kaikunane 


a brother. 


Kaikuwahine 


a sister. 


Kae 


a goat. 


Kaaa 


war. 


Kaukama 


a cucumber. 


Kahakai 


the beach, the sea shore. 


Kahuna 


a priest. 


Kamaa 


shoes. 


Kamailio 


conversation. 


Kaniai 


the throat* 



24S 



APPENDIX. 



Kanaka 


man. 




Kala 


a dollar; also applied to 
called makakala* 


spectacles 


Kafiiki 


a cabbage. 




Keikepapu 


a resident. 




Keikimahine 


a daughter. 




Keiki 


a child, a son. 




Keikuana 


an elder brother. 




Koa 


a soldier. 




Koko 


blood. 




Kulina 


maize. 




Kuahivi 


a mountain. 




Kuono 


a bay. 




Kupunekane 


a grandfather. 




Kupunewahine 


a grandmother. 




Kupapau 


a corpse. 




Laa 


a leaf. 




Lawoho 


hair. 




Leo 


a voice. 




Liia 


cold. 




Lio 


a horse. 




Lipi 


axe, or hatchet. 




Limalima 


the hand. 




JLole 


cloth. 




Marina 


the moon. 




Maitai - 


good. 




Maka 


the eye. 




Make 


to die. 




Manava 


time. 




Mario 


a shark. 




Mea 


a thing. 




MOANA 


the sea. 




Moni 


to swallow. 




MULUWAI 


a river. 




Nau 


thou. 




JSTaia 


a porpoise. 




Kani 


beautiful, handsome. 




Niho, or NINO 


teeth. 




NlNEHI 


a circle. 




!Nui 


great. 




JVuinui 


very large. 




Oe ALA 


he, she, or it. 




Oe 


thou 




Oe ne 


thou. 




Oi 


sharp. 




Oi ai 


to ascend. 




Oi iho 


to descend. 




Ohana 


a family. 




Ohale 


baidheaded. 




Ohi 


the. 





APPENDIX. 



249 



Ohia 
Ola 


ffiife. salvation, v. to be safe, to be 




alive. 


Ona 

Olala, or orara 


drunken. 

person shipwrecked. 


Omaoina 


bosom. 


Onohe 


the eyeball. 


Opxt 


the belly. 


Oreore 


a noise. 


Orohe 


to hear. 


Orono 


to obey. 


Oukoa 


you. m 


Ou 


thou, thine. 


Pahi 


knife, sword- 


Paafiu 


altogether. 


Pepeido 


the ear. 


Penkane 


Britain. 


Po 


Night. 


Poo 


the head. 


Poeleele 


darkness. 


Pouli 


do. 


Puola 


a tomb. 


Ranakira 


a conqueror. 


Tamaiti 


a son. 


U 


the breasts, milk, Sec, 


Uala 


potatoes. 


Uao 


daylight. 


U'A 


rain. 


Uee 


to cry. 


Uharu 


hungry. 


Uhane 


a s/iirit y the soul. 


Ukana wainvai 


goods, commodities. 


Uka 


wages, compensation. 


Via 


red. 


Umete 


a calabash. 


Umi 


ten. 


Umikamarii 


infanticide. 


Uma 


a place for baking, an ovea. 


Ufiine 


a net. 


Wa 


time. 


Wahia 


wood. 


Wai 


water. 


Waia 


milk. 


Waha 


month. 


Walaaa 


noise. 


Waimaka 


tears. 


Wain a 


wine. 


WlTI,OrWITIWITI 


quick, swift* 



250 APPENDIX. 

I 

Aniani mai ka makani oluolu. The breeze blows comfortably. 
Ike arooke Akua. t h e pr e sence of God. 

Aroha ino oe, e noho lai Ho- \ Great affection for you dwell- 

noruru. j m S at Honoruru. 

Ehele au e ike ia oukou. I will come to see you. 

Aore nana ia kopalafiala \ Your letter has not been seen 

eke'rii 5 *>y the king. 

Ua eha aula oe. - I n ^ve been hurt by you. 

E eha aku oe ia'u. You shall also be hurt by me. 

Make make mauai kafiala-1 We l ? VQ the book, or instruc- 



jiala. 



} 



tion. 



Ihoi mai au i ka olelo ako} 1 nave returned an account of 

ani. \ the king's word. 

He aroha au ia oe i kou keiki ) * sympathise with you on ac- 

i make ai. \ count of your son's death. 

Efiale ae i ke Akua i ke aril, Pra y t0 God for the km §- 
Aore oukou ehele mai i'au i ) Ye wl11 not come t0 me that >" e 

ora oukou. \ may be saved - 

Iho mai kela. JJe came down. 

Makou iho olelo maitai a Je-^> ^ e ha \ e recently heard the 

hoya. \ S ood word of Jehovah. 

Ua ike au a fiau roa i ko ha- > l understood even all your let- 

^pcila. X *<*• r . M ■ . . . 

C Great [is 1 *] the iniquity ot 
Jvui ka ino okakou naau. £ our hearts. 

Nana oe i kahi kakei o haule. Watch the child or he will fall. 
Hookomo ia mai. Let ■* be brought m. 

Specimens of the language will be found in many parts of 
the Journal, with translations by Mr. Ellis. 



The following is a Hymn in the Hawaiian language, and is 
a translation of lines composed by Mr. W m. B. Tappan, on 
occasion of several missionaries embarking at New Haven, 
Conn for the Sandwich Islands, in the autumn of 1822. The 
original will also be given, for the sake of comparison. 

Hawaiian. 

1. Eaba na rookivokai riro e, 
]V2a* moe mau no i ka kae o ka po, 
E s»ana oukou ra, ua ana ao nei. 
'Ke maraniarama e ora'i oukou 
Halt luia ia le*u, i k<» kak u Aiana. 
fiiilani hou ia la i ka wai loridana. 

* The verb to be is wanting in the Hawaiian language. This is asserted on the 
authority of Mr. Ellis. Ed. 



APPENDIX. 251 



2. Ko nam a puni e haruru ae, 
Na rakou e amc k*ukana maitai 
E rave ka ko a me ka maranai, 
Ka moku i uka ka me e ora'i. 

3. 1 na moku i paa i ka pouri mau. 
Uhia 'ka uaau po wale rakou, 

Ano nei e pnka no rnaila ke ao 
Hoku Bet'lehema, ka Hoku ao mau. 

4. E ake rakou i nana wqve ae 
Ka wehea ma: 'ka araura maitai, 
A okii kukuna o ka Vlesia mau, 
"A 'kali na moku koua kanawai." 

5. Huiia ka re re a pan, me ka kii; 
E hooreia ka taumaha a pau; 

I k'Alana maitai rakou e ora'i, 
E tabu ka Heiau na ke Akua mau. 

6. E Obdkahata i noho runa'e 
'Hauoli no mai 'ka oleio maitai; 
'Rohea ka pule no ko aina nei, 
I pono rakou nei, i nani no nae. 
Haieiuia ia lesu, i ko kakou Alana, 
Hiilani houia ia i ka wai loridana. 



Original. 

Wake, Isles of the South! your redemption is near, 
'. No longer repose in the borders of gloom; 
The strength of His chosen in love will appear, 
And light shall arise on the verge of the tomb. 

Alleluia to the Lamb who hath purchased our pardon; 

We will praise him again when we pass over Jordan: 

We will praise him, &c. 

The billows that girt ye, the wild waves that roar, 
The zephyrs that play where the ocean-storms cease, 
Shall bear the rich freight to your desolate shore, 

Shall wart the glad tidings of pardon and peace. 
Alleluia. &c. 

On the islands that sit in the regions of night, 
The lands of despair, to oblivion a prey, 
The morning will open with healing and light; 
The young star of Bethlehem will ripen to day. 
Alleluia. &c. 

The altar and idol in dust overthrown, 
The incense forbade that was hallo wed with blood; 
The Priest of Melehisedec there shall atone, 
And the shgrirtea of Atooi be sacred to God! 
Alleluia, &e. 



252 APPENDIX. 

The heathen will hasten to welcome the time, 
The day spring, the prophet i<j vision once saw — 
When th j b 4ms of Messiah wili 'iumine each clime, 
And the isles of the ocean shall wait for his law. 
Alleluia, &c. 

And thouOBooKiAH! now sainted ahove, 

Wilt rejoice, as the heralds their mission disclose; 

And the prayer will be heard, that the land thou didst love, 

May blossom as Sharon, and bud ^s the ros ! 

Alleluia to the Lamb who huh purchased our pardon; 

We will praise him a^ain when we pass over Jordan: 

We will praise him, &c 



VI. 



GENERAL REMARKS ON THE POLYNESIAN LANGUAGE. 

[Copied from the Introduction to a Grammar of the Tahitian Dialect of the Poly- 
nesian Language printed by the English Missionaries at the Society Islands, in 
1823.] 

The inhabitants of most of the numerous islands of the 
South Sea, called by modern geographers by the general 
name of Polynesia, have one common language, which, for 
that reason, may be called the Polynesian. It prevails, also, 
over some part of Australasia; yet it has apparently no affin- 
ity with the languages or dialects of the major part of the 
Australasians. 

The Polynesian, whether it may be considered as a primi- 
tive or mother tongue itself, or a sister of the Malay deriv- 
ed from one common parent, is undoubtedly of great antiqui- 
ty; the people that speak it having been, it is probable, 
separated for ages from the rest of the world. 

And while, as the language of a rude and uncivilized people, 
it has, as might be expected, many deficiencies, when com- 
pared with the highly cultivated and polished languages of 
Europe, it has, at the same time, in some respects, a force, a 
simplicity, and precision, as in the instance of the personal 
pronouns, that may perhaps be superior to them all. 

Its resemblance to the Hebrew in the conjugation of the 
verbs, and in many of its primitive words, could easily be 
shown. Many words seem to have truly Hebrew roots; such 
as mate, death; mara maramara^ bitter; rafiaau, to heal; 
fiae, side; 8cc. 

As the Polynesian prevails over such a vast tract of the 
South Pacific Ocean, and is spoken, for the most part, by 
people inhabiting small detached islands, having little or no 
intercourse with each other, it has, as might be expected, a 



APPENDIX. 253 

great variety of dialects; yet not so di rr e rent, but they all may 
easily be known to belong to one common language. 

Of these dialects, the principal are the Hawaiian, or that 
of the Sandwich Islands; the Marouesan; that of New Zea- 
land; the Tongatabuan, or thatot the Friendly Islands; and 
the Tahitian. The others, so far as they are known, bear 
more or less affinity, some to one, and some to another of 
these. 

There is in the Polynesian language, a great number of 
radical or primitive words, that seem to prevail through all 
the dialects, having nearly the same pronunciation and the 
same ideas affixed to them, every where; such as mate, 
death; iai, water; ua, rain; fenua, land; to', the sea; uta, the 
shore; medua, a parent; atua, a god, 8cc. 

Other words such as the numerals, the personal and pos- 
sessive pronouns, are nearly the same every where, and 
probably the same may be said of the use of the adjectives, 
and of the conjugation of verbs. 

Many words however appear very different when they are 
not soin reality; because in some dialects the first syllable of 
a word is dropped or exchanged; as t for k, h for/', n for ng y 
I for r, or the contrary. Thus the word standing for man in 
the Hawaiian, is kanaka; as, also, in Pavata, or one of the 
dialects of the Paumotu people; in the Marquesan, it is anata; 
in the Tongatabuan tongata; as also, at New Zealand; In the 
Fejeean, it is tamata; and in the Tahitian, taaia. Ika is the 
general word iovjish in the different dialects; but ia in Ta- 
hitian: also buaka for a hog; but buaa in Tahitian. Ra is 
the general word for the sun; but at the Marquesas, a, and 
in the Friendly Islands, la. Ariki and aiki are the general 
words for a king, or principal chief; in TahLian arii. 

Of the above dialects, those that bear the greatest resem- 
blance to each other, are the Hawaiian, the Marquesan, and 
that of New Zealand; the Tahitian comes next, and differs 
chiefly from them in abridging the words, and dropping a great 
number of consonants, and in discarding entirely the nasal ng, 
the g, and k. 

The Tongatabuan differs from them all in many respects. 
It substitutes the / for the r; uses the^' consonant, which the 
others never do; has strong aspirates, resembling the Greek 
ihi; or the ancient British ch; and has a great number of 
words unknown in the other dialects of the Polynesian, but 
they may probably be traced to the dialects used in the Fe- 
jees, New Caledonia, and the Marian or Ladrone Islands. 
There seems to be nothing in the dialect of the Friendly* 
Islanders to support the conjecture that the New Zealanders 
are their descendants. 

The Fejeeans are undoubtedly a different race of people 
from the Friendly Islanders, and, apparently, from all that 
speak the Polynesian; and though their language is partly- 
Polynesian, yet it has a mixture of words, that indicate a 
different origin. The words Kalao, God; leva, woman; sin- 
22 



254 APPENDIX. 

ga, the sun; tolatola, a shoulder; sala, a leg; 8cc. seem t© 
have no affinity* with the true Polynesian, though they may 
have with some of the Malay dialects. Bulam, or bulan, 
the word used by the Fejeeans for the moon, is used by the 
Malays. 

Of three of the Polynesian dialects there have been gram- 
mars composed; viz: nrst, of the Marquesan, by the Rev. S. 
Greathead, a gentleman well qualified, trom his extensive ac- 
quaintance with all that has been written concerning the 
Polynesian nation, its customs, language, 8cc. It is to be 
regretted, however, that his materials were not more ample 
and accurate. — The next was Martin's Grammar of the 
Tonga language, as he calls that of the Friendly Islands. — 
The third was a grammar of the New Zealand dialect by- 
Professor Lee of Cambridge, whose known abilities, and 
extensive acquaintance with the oriental languages, would 
have realized the expectation of a valuable work, had he 
been furnished with accurate and sufficient materials. 

About sixteen years ago, an attempt was made towards 
compiling a Tahitian English Vocabulary, to which was pre- 
fixed a rough sketch of a Tahitian grammar. A copy of that 
vocabulary and grammar was sent to the Directors of the 
London Missionary Society; but,^owing probably to the low 
state of the Tahitian mission at that time, little notice was 
taken of it. 

[The grammar, of which the foregoing remarks form the 
preface, is anew edition of the above named Tahitian Gram- 
mar, with corrections and additions.] 



VII. 

VOCABULARY OF THE FEJEEAN LANGUAGE. 

In the preceding article, p. 253, the remark is made, that the 
Fejeean language has not probably the same origin with the 
Polynesian. As specimens of this language are very rare, 
and as no professed vocabulary of it has, we believe, ever been 
published, it was thought, that it might be useful to subjoin the 
following, compiled from a more extensive one obligingly lent 
us by Mr. Pickering of Salem. The original munuscript, of 
which Mr. Pickering's is a copy, belonged to William P. 
Richardson Esq. of the same place, who visited the Feiee 
Islands in 1811. J 

The words are all to be sounded according to the English 
powers of the letters. Those, that belong to the Empress 
Catherine's list, are, as in the vocabulary of the Hawaiian 
anguage, printed in small capitals. 

Endoongah one. 

Sa ruah two. 

Sa toloo three. 

Va four. 



API 

Lemo 


five. 


Ono 


six. 


Vetoo 


seven. 


Whaloo 


eight. 


Thevah 


nine. 


Teeney 


ten. 


Rndoongah teeney ^ or ) 
Bonackhe Endoongah \ 


eleven. 




Ruah teeney 


twenty. 


Ruah teeney bonackhe 


twenty and more. 


Toloo teeney bonackhe 


thirty and more. 


Androw 


one hundred. 


To express a great number 


, they repeat the word androw 


shutting and opening their hands to signify thousands. 


Antakie 


a musket. 


Antakie nefenoah 


a large gun. 


Antakie nubeta 


a bow. 


ASSUEY, Or IVALLEY 


a house. 


Ambucah 


fire. 


Ambure 


yellow. 


Antahly 


a rope. 


Ah lay 


an expression of grief. 


Andoboo 


sugarcane. 


Antaloo 


a vegetable, called taro at the 




Sandwich Islands. 


Angonah 


name of an intoxicating drink. 


Ahwhye 


water. 


Ahwhye endran 


fresh water. 


Ahwhye enduey 


salt water. 


Ambetty 


a prophet, 
a fish hook. 


Ambat ne angole 


Aooto 


the bread fruit. 


Ambeetoo 


bamboo. 


Bellico 


a chisel. 


Bergoolah 


the dead body of an enemy s 




which they intend to eat. 


Boondy 


banana. 


Battoo 


a stone. 


BULLUM BULLUfli 


strong, healthy, fearless, un- 




daunted. 


Booloo 


the moon. 


BOOTHEM BOOTHEM 


white. 


Beembee 


heavy. 


Coro 


a foot. 


Cogey ly ly 


a hatchet. 


CUNNYCUN 


to eat. 


Coosah coosah 


make haste. 


Cow my 


give me. 


Carrahcarahwah 


green, or blue. 



255 


APPENDIX. 


Dulah 


hush, be quiet. 


Ddmmer 


an outrigger to a canoe. 


Eye 


yes. 


Etfnum 


silly, foolish. 


Endry* endry 9 


long. 


Endum kndum 


red. 


End rah 


blood. 


Etoah 


fowl. 


Esa/i 


an oath. 


Fenoah 


land. 


GOURIE 


a dog. 


Ganggah 


bold, courageous. 


Goosey goosey 


very angry, mad, crazy 


Guego 


you. 


Guow 


;$, myself. 


G on lie 


a parroquet. 


HlGHBALLOO 


war. 


Iarsey 


sandal wood. 


larsey mundoo 


old dry wood. 


Iarsey boo 


green straight wood. 


Iarsey ambillo 


crooked wood. 


larsey cobey 


young wood, in which 




is no heart or smell. 


larsey toloo 


hollow wood. 


larsey lebo 


large wood. 


Iarsey ly ly 


small wood. 


larsey endry 9 endry 


long wood. 


larsey lecca lecca 


short wood. 


larsey benackah 


good wood. 
bad wood. 


Iarsey dah 


Iscealey 


a knife, saw. 


Icotey 


a pair of scissors. 


Iamb oo mungy 


an adze. 


Indecnah 


indeed it is true. 


It hidy 


a needle. 


Kimori 


a Lascar. 


Kisee 


a poor man, a slave. 


Kywhye 


a sailor, a fisherman. 


Leek 


a woman's dress. 


I Alio lillo 


a looking glass. 


Lkvah 


a woman. 


Levah ly ly 


a girl. 


Lear lear 


a fool. 


Latha 


a sail. 


Lecca lecca 


short. 


Lasso 


a lie. 


LUAH LUAII 


black. 


Looboo 


full. 


Logey ly ly 


a hatchet. 



APPENDIX. 



257 



Marti 

Matow 

Matow loqey, or logey 

Mossay 

Marammah 

Missamis' 

Matte matte 

Maloom 

Mot too 
•Metaccahlyly 
Moi moi 

MUNGETY 

Marsemah 
Matte savah 
Manoo manoo 
JVassozu 
Ninney ninney 
Negour 
Neb ongy bong 
Ne bong 
JVe highballoo 
JVe metha 

Ouvie 
Outha 

OULY 
OlJCTENAH 

Papfe lange 

POAKAH 

Rhomboo 
Rangonie 

Sengah 

Sa munckah 

Sang 

Sulu 

SUIR 

Sa reyrey 

Sciandrah 
Singah 
Sa voca 
Sarah sarah 
Soroh lebo 
Samberry 
Sallah 
Salallah 

Tombey 
Taboui 

TUMATTAH 
TUNGUNIE 



a. carpenter, 
iron. 
lebo an axe. 
a fan. 

wife to a great chief, 
fish, 
to put to death, death; to hurt 

in any way. 
a war-club, 
a spear. 

tomorrow morning, 
to sleep, to rest, 
provisions, 
salt. 

a landing place, 
birds. 

arrows, ammunition, 
angry, 
today, 
tomorrow, 
night. 

an ally in war. 
an enemy, 
a yam. 
rain. 

hair of the head, 
a wife. 

a white man, a ghost. 
a pig, hog, pork. 

a chest, a basket, a box. 
a boy. 

no. 

no more. 

a fork. 

cloth. 

a bone. 

cowardly, timid, fearful, 

frightened, 
good morning* 
the sun. 
speak. 

to see, to look, 
a great feast, 
by and by. 
a path, 
empty. 

a small piece of ivory, 
a razor, 
a man. 
a husband. 



22 



258 



APPENDIX. 



TUMMUNNAH 
TuNNEENAK 

Turang 
Turang a lebo 
Turang a ly ly 
Thackow 

TUMBATACCAH 

Tulindow 
Thurgie 
Tamboo 

Tarro 

Tuliah 

Tamboo mungy mungy 

To okie ne mat tow 

Tungie 

Ungah 

Wankey lebo 
Wankeyne fappelang 
Wankey nub eta 

Yow 



a father. 

a mother. 

a chief. 

a great chief. % 

a petty chief. 

a reef (of rocks.) 

n. a thief; v. to steal. 

a boat steerer. 

wind. 

equivalent to the tabu of the 
Sandwich Islands. 

when the restriction is re- 
moved. 

labour. 

an adze. 

a blacksmith. 

crying. 

a duck. 

a ship, a vessel, 
a vessel, 
a boat. 

goods, trade. 



Quotha i thanah guego? 
Cybee ne assuey guego? 
Cybee ne sallah? 

Quotha iarsey boley negour? 

Sarah sarah guow. 
Sagalah guego? 
Sagalah guow. 
Sa guego saguow salago sa 
sa rara rfiarsey. 

Boley adabah rfiarsey guego? 

Kenethah ta ta iarsey? 
Sa munckah n'iarsey negour? 
Sa boleah. 

Mybee n'iarsey guego? 
Dolah n'iarsey ?i 9 bello bello. 
Asofiah n'iarsey. 
Iarsey guotha? 
Iarsey guow. 
Iarsey nHtahnie. 
Cybee ne towgay? 
Salago lagoutoo ta ta ne iar- ? 
sey. 5 



What is your name? 

Where is your house? 

W ; here is the path? 

5 Who has any sandal- wood 

t to sell to-day? 

Let me see. 

Do. you understand? 

I understand. 

Go with me to see the sandal- 
wood. 

yWhat do you want for your 

C wood? 

When do you cut sandal-wood? 

Have you got any wood to-day? 

I have sold it. 

Where is your wood? 

Carry the wood to the boat. 

Put the wood in piles. 

Whose wood is this. 

It is my wood. 

It belongs to another man. 

Where is the owner? 

He has gone to the woods to 
cut sandal-wood. 



APPENDIX. 259 



VIII. 

STATEMENTS OF THE REV. WILLIAM ELLIS RESPECTING THE SOCIETT 
ISLANDS. 

[The Rev. Mr. Ellis, who, as one of the Deputation sent to explore the island of 
Hawaii, drew up the preceding journal of the tour, has since visited the United 
States, with his family, on their way to England, on account of the long continued 
and dangerous sickness of Mrs. Ellis. He arrived in this country in March 1825, 
and remained here till Jul y. During this time, he visited most of the larger towns 
and cities on the sea-coast, east of the Hudson River, for the purpose of describing 
the great changes which, in consequence of missionary efforts, have taken place 
in the Society Islands; and also the progress of the mission at the Sandwich Island's. 

Before going to reside at the last mentioned islands, Mr. Ellis i.ad spent six 
years in connexion with the mission at the Society Islands, under w hich general 
denomination both the Society and Georgian groupes are usually included. He 
arrived in the Pacific in 1817. Only two years previous to that time, all those 
islands, except Eimeo, were wholly given to idolatry and crime. At the period of 
his landing at Eimeo, however, no less than eight of the islands had formally re- 
nounced their idols, and were seeking Christian instruction. After continuing at 
JEiiiieo about a year, he removed to Huahine. 

Mr. Ellis was an eye-witness of nearly all he related with respect to the present 
condition of those happy isles. And when he described the wretched state of their 
inhabitants in former times, he spoke only of what had been painfully witnessed, 
for many years, by some of the excellent missionaries, with whom he was subse- 
quently associated; of what, too, had been done and suffered by natives, with 
whom he held daily intercourse— natives, once licentious, savage idolaters, but 
now humane, civilized, Christian men, through the transforming influence of the 
Gospel of Christ. 

The brief account of Mr. Ellis's statements respecting the Society Islands, which 
follows, was drawn up by the Editor, who repeatedly heard them in public and had 
the happiness of conversing often with their author in private; and although the 
view must necessarily waut much of the fulness and vivacity of the original, it is 
believed to possess the merits of accuracy and truth. This is the account, to which 
reference is made at p. 240, in the notice of the Society Islands. It was publish- 
ed originally in the Missionary Herald.] 

The description of the islands given by Capt. Cook and 
other navigators, is found to be correct. The soil is luxuri- 
ant, the climate salubrious, (though somewhat less so than 
that of the Sandwich Islands,)' and the scenery every where 
delightful. Those voyagers, however, were not at the islands 
long enough to learn the true character and condition of the 
inhabitants; whose manners were less innocent, whose cus- 
toms were more savage, and who were far less happy, than 
was supposed. The first impressions of the missionaries 
were favourable. But a residence of fifteen years at the 
islands, gave them altogether different views of the people. 

Former Character and Condition of the Inhabitants, 
Their domestic and social state. — For domestic happiness, 
their language contained not a symbol. Of it they had not 
an idea. Polygamy was common. The duties of the mar- 
riage relation were disregarded. The connexion itself was 
dissolved on the slightest pretences. Impurity was univer- 
sal. 

The lot of the female was peculiarly hard. She must not 
cook her food at the same fire with her husband, nor eat with 
him, nor make the same house her ordinary habitation. 
Besides, she was denied some of the best kinds of food; and 
it was death for her to violate these rules. 



260 APPENDIX. 

Infants were murdered without reluctance and without re- 
morse; and generally by their parents, or other near rela- 
tions. The elder missionaries believed, that two-thirds of 
the children were thus sent from the world, by the hand of 
violence, in the morning of life. Generally they were slain 
as soon as born. Sometimes they were sacrificed to idols; 
sometimes they were thrown into the sea to propitiate the 
sharks who were worshipped as gods; but oftener they were 
buried alive — frequently in the house where they were born, 
the mother helping to fill up the grave. The causes of this 
unnatural deed were various. Infidelity to the conjugal rela- 
tion, weakening the ties of nature, w 7 as one. Difference of 
rank in the parents, or, in other words, family pride, scorning 
to mingle patrician with plebeian blood, was another. But 
the most operative cause was found in the Arioi Society \ 
which must have had its origin in unmingled depravity. 
The number of the Ariois was large, and their principles 
were horrid; one of which was, that no member should suf- 
fer his children to live. If he did, he was expelled from the 
fraternity. The society was a privileged order, and being 
restricted to the higher ranks, was esteemed the most polite 
and honourable institution in the islands. 

If parents were cruel to their children, children were also 
cruel to their parents. When the parent was old, decrepit, 
sick and helpless, they would sometimes build a booth not 
far from the house, place him in it, give him a small portion 
of provisions, and never go near him again. Of course he 
soon died. Sometimes, tired with waiting on him, and desir- 
ing to seize on his property, a parricide would enter the hut 
of his unsuspecting father, and pierce him through with a 
spear. Sometimes the children would pretend to be carry- 
ing their sick father to bathe, when they would throw him 
into a grave previously prepared for the purpose, and stifle 
his cries, and put an end to his life, by throwing large stones 
upon him. 

There w r as no mutual confidence. No man knew whom to 
trust; for the fountains of domestic and social affection were 
poisoned, and the rights of others were disregarded. An ex- 
clusive, unfeeling, grasping selfishness every where predom- 
inated. 

Besides the other causes of wretchedness in their social 
life, drunkenness was almost universal. The juice of the 
ava had long been known to them as furnishing an inebria- 
ting draught. At length they were instructed to distil some- 
thing more efficacious from the juice of the sugar-cane. Stills 
of the rudest form were to be found in all the inhabited parts 
of the islands. Around these the natives would gather in 
small companies, and drink the spirit as it was manufactured, 
until they quarrelled, fought, and some were slain. 

Indeed, human life was held as of little value. Many died 
by open violence; many by secret poison. It was even a 
general opinion among the natives, (such were their views 
of each other,) that none died a natural death. If they 



APPENDIX. 261 

could discover no other cause, they attributed the decease 
of their friends to the mysterious rites of sorcery. 

Their Government was in the highest degree despotic and 
tyrannical. The king of the islands, and the chiefs of the 
several districts, had full power over the property and lives 
of their vassals. The rulers seized on the possessions of any 
one, whenever they pleased; and it was death to complain. 
The people were often stripped at once of their whole prop- 
erty. A regular trial for offences was unknown. A man was 
judged unheard, and executed without a formal condemna- 
tion, and usually without warning. Death was the punish- 
ment for crimes of every degree. The offender was killed 
with a club or spear, or beheaded. Often he was offered in 
sacrifice to the idols. — Under such a government, there could 
be no feeling of security; no industry; no enterprize. 

Their Wars were carried on both by sea and land. Their 
custom by sea was as follows. Forty - or fifty large canoes, 
lashed together with strong cords, so that none might desert, 
and filled with warriors, were rowed out to meet as many 
more, prepared in a similar manner for the contest. As the 
two parties approached, the battle was begun with slings and 
stones; when they came nearer, spears and javelins were 
used; and when they closed, they fought with clubs. In 
many cases, the vanquished party has been wholly destroy- 
ed, the victor carrying the work of death from one end of the 
line to the other. — Their wars on land, were even more 
bloody: for besides making all possible slaughter of the van- 
quished on the field of contest, and relentlessly pursuing the 
fugitives for weeks and months among the mountains; a re- 
served party of the victors, as soon as the battle was decided, 
rushed upon the defenceless villages, and carried promis- 
cuous slaughter among the women and children, the sick 
and aged: or, if any were spared, it was for slavery, or for 
immolation upon the altars of the gods. The barbarity of 
these wars was dreadful. Here, a warrior might be seen 
tossing little children and infants into the air, and catching 
them on the point of his spear, where they expired in ago- 
nies. There, another might be seen dragging, in savage 
triumph, five or six lifeless children by a cord, which had 
been passed successively through their heads from ear to ear. 
Yonder, all covered with gore, another might be seen scoop- 
ing with his hands, the blood from the gushing trunk of his 
decapitated foe, and drinking it with hideous exultation. — 
These wars were frequent. Scarcely a year passed without 
one or more. 

Such evils as these which have been mentioned, all com- 
bining their infiuence, must, one would think, have constantly 
diminished the population. And this was the fact. In 1773, 
Capt. Cook estimated the number of inhabitants in the isl- 
ands at 200,000. The missionaries believe that there must 
have been at that time at least 150,000. But in 1797, when 
the missionaries arrived there, the number did not exceed 



262 APPENDIX. 

20,000; and before the Gospel began to exert much influ- 
ence, it had diminished to little more than 15,000. Pomare, 
speaking of the goodness of God in sending his word to the 
islands, remarked, that " it came to the small remainder of 
the people." 

Their Religion. — The only controuling principle in their 
religion, was fear. Their gods were confessedly evil, re- 
vengeful, cruel. No amiable, lovely trait of character was 
attributed to them. Consequently they were never loved. 
And the system of religion resembled the gods. It possessed 
no amiable characteristics. It sanctioned every crime, and 
even required the practice of very many. Its rites were 
bloody. The king was chief priest. Hence the requisitions 
of religion were seconded by the civil power. One of the 
principal requisitions was human sacrifices, which was fre- 
quently made. When a large sacrifice of this kind was or- 
dered, the king sent to the chiefs of the several districts a 
number of stones, denoting the number of victims, which 
were to be furnished by each. The chiefs then sent by night 
to whatever huts they chose, despatched the victims, and the 
next morning sent them in baskets to the morai, or temple. 
The missionaries have proof, that at least 16 or 18 human 
sacrifices have been offered at one time. In some cases, every 
post in a temple, which was erecting, rested upon a human 
body slaughtered for that purpose. — The tabu, or system 
of restrictions, which was a part of the religion, was severe 
in its nature, and terrible in its effects. It consecrated per- 
sons, places, and things to certain uses connected with the 
religion; and disregard of its prohibitions sent the transgres- 
sor bleeding to the altar. 

"Surely the dark places of the earth are full of the hab- 
itations of cruelty." 

Historical Sketch of the Mission to these Islands. 

A mission was established in the islands, in 1797, by the 
London Missionary Society. For fifteen years, it had no 
apparent success. The missionaries became almost discour- 
aged. So likewise did their patrons in Great Britain. Chris- 
tendom lost, in great measure, the interest it had first felt in 
the enterprise. The hopes and expectations of Christians 
with respect to the success of evangelical exertions, rested 
chiefly on other portions of the heathen world. 

Rut in 1812, Pomare, the king, offered himself a candidate 
for baptism, and desired Christian instruction; although he 
knew that such a step might deprive him for ever of Tahiti, 
and might even endanger his life. Every motive of worldly 
policy conspired with his early habits, and his confirmed de- 
pravity, to bind him to idolatry; but he formally made the 
offer, and though he was not then baptized, he ever after 
manifested cordial attachment to the Christian religion. The 
next year, a number of other natives appeared to be con- 



APPENDIX. 263 

vinced of their need of salvation 'by Jesus Christ. In 1814, 
this number was somewhat increased. They all observed 
the Sabbath, and often met for prayer to God. For this their 
neighbors derided them, and distinguished them by the name 
of Bure Atua, or Praying People. In 1815, the missionaries 
estimated the professed worshippers of the true God, in the 
several islands at five hundred, among whom were several 
leading chiefs. 

Since that time, a printing press has been established in 
each group of islands, and numerous books in the native lan- 
guage, composed or translated by the missionaries, who first 
reduced the language to writing," have been printed, and cir- 
culated among the people. 

Present Character and Condition of the Inhabitants. 

Their domestic and social state has undergone a radical 
change. Polygamy has been abolished. Christian marriage 
has been introduced. The marriage vows are held sacred. 
The husband and wife live together, use the same kinds of 
food, eat from the same table, and associate on terms of 
Christian equality, and affectionate endearment. Children 
are not only suffered to live, but are cherished with great 
tenderness, and nurtured with pious solicitude and care: and 
domestic happiness is well understood, and generally enjoyed, 
in all the islands. 

To a considerable extent, the inhabitants have been gather- 
ed into villages, for the sake of the regular preaching of the 
Gospel. Their houses are co n for table, being generally of 
timber framework, the interstices of which are wattled and 
plastered, and the whole white-washed. Their furniture and 
clothing are in the European style; so far as their means will 
allow. They have been taught by the missionaries to make 
bonnets and hats from materials which are found in abun- 
dance on the islands; and these articles of dress are almost 
universal. They also manufacture sofas, tables, &c., which 
are fast multiplying in their dwellings. 

Not less than 12,000, out of the 20,000 inhabitants, can read 
the word of God intelligibly, considerable portions of which 
have been translated, printed and circulated: and 3,000 child- 
ren and adults are now in the schools. Many are able to 
write, and some are considerably acquainted with arithmetic. 
So that the domestic circle is enlivened by intellectual occu- 
pations, unknown a few years since. 

Industry has greatly increased. Drunkenness has become 
rare. Theft seldom occurs. Murder is still more infrequent. 
The aged and infirm are kindly treated. Hospitals have 
been established, and charitable societies instituted, to relieve 
the afflicted poor. The Arioi Society is no more. Its abom- 
inations are detested. Correct views of individual rights are 
prevalent, and those rights are respected. Private interest 
is sought in subserviency to the general good; and mutual 
confidence pervades the community. 

Their Government has received a salutary modification, 



264 APPENDIX. 

It has been defined and limited by a Constitution, and exists 
in the mildest patriarchal form. - The king and his chiefs 
have power only to execute the laws. It is, in fact, a govern- 
ment of laws. These laws have been printed and promul- 
gated. Individual rights have been made sure. No man can 
be molested at pleasure, either in his person or property. 
Punishments are prescribed by the laws, and are proportion- 
ate to the aggravation of the offence. None can be punished 
uncondemned, nor any be condemned without a regular trial; 
and this trial is always by jury, and in an open court ofustice. 

Their Wars are ended. The weapons of war are neglect- 
ed and are perishing. Instead of guns and powder and ball, 
they seek for implements of husbandry, for clothing, for do- 
mestic utensils, for means of growing in knowledge, and in 
grace. 

Their Religion is peaceful and holy. It teaches to cultivate 
the virtues of" penitence, and charity, and faith; to seek the 
happiness of each other, and of all men; to set lightly by the 
world; to lay up treasure in heaven; to be holy, harmless, 
undefiled. By this religion the whole population is much in- 
fluenced; though it is by no means presumed that all are 
truly pious. Family prayer, however, is almost universal: 
so also is secret prayer morning and evening. About 2,000 
have been received into the full communion of the churches, 
(of which there are eleven,) and after two, three, four, and 
five years trial of their Christian life; and 8,000 have been 
baptized, a large proportion of whom are adults, who give evi- 
dence of piety, but are to be still longer tried, before admis- 
sion to the Lord's Supper, and the fellowship of the churches. 
The communicants almost universally adorn their profession. 
Messrs Tyerman and Bennet, the Deputation of the London 
Society, remarked, after being sometime at the Islands, that 
they had not met with a member of the mission churches, 
who for religious knowledge and Christian character, would 
not be received into the Dissenting churches of England. 
The Sabbath is most strictly observed. The food for that 
day is prepared on Saturday. No labour is performed on 
land; not a canoe is seen on the water; not even fire is lighted 
in their houses. At sunrise two-thirds of the population at- 
tend a prayer-meeting, conducted by the natives. Two 
other public services, conducted by the missionaries, are also 
attended during the day. Twenty-eight houses of worship 
are thus occupied every Lord's day. The word of God is 
the man of their counsel, the guide of their lives. Their 
children are- brought up in the knowledge of that blessed 
word. A missionary spirit is wonderfully prevalent. Eighteen 
natives have gone to distant islands to carry the knowledge 
of the Gospel, some of whom went at the peril of their lives; 
and they have laboured with zeal, ability and astonishing suc- 
cess. Several thousands have been taught to read, and two 
churches have been gathered, by means of their labours. 

THE END. 



FEB 1 2 1851 












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